Camry :: No Power, Then Starts With Very Low Idle And Stalls
Nov 9, 2012
Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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My 1998 Jimmy SLE 4.3L is having issues starting. The vehicle will start but then stop when it settles down to the idle rpm. When i turn the key I get a fuel pressure of around 52-54psi and i can hear the fuel pump running. The odd time when I can get the vehicle to run I get a fuel pressure of 55psi and the engine runs better than it ever has. Since the problem started I have changed the following:
Cap and Rotor
Spark Plugs and Wires
PCV valve
Fuel Filter
No codes showed during a scan and the problem occurs often but occasionally it will start without a problem. My last thought it would be a fuel pump or a fuel pressure regulator. Again, I can hear the fuel pump activate when i turn the key and the fuel pressure is just below 55psi when i turn the key.
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I'm struggling with an intermittent (of course) issue where, esp. if cold, I can't start my car unless I give it lots of gas. If I take my foot off the gas at all, it will stall, which means I drive this automatic two-footed (one foot on brake, one on gas) , giving it lots of gas at all times, including when stopped. After about 10 minutes it is fine, and is then good for the rest of the day. My trusted Volvo-spscific repair shop has tried replacing booster pressure sensor, fuel pressure regulator (both indicated by engine codes) and new plugs. The end result is I've got $500 into the car that does seem to run better when it starts, but the original issue is unsolved. I was thinking something is sticking with a cold start, or idle speed is incorrect, but can't figure it out. Seems like it should be an easy fix.
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So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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1990 Toyota Camry.4cyl Starts normally drives about 50 or so miles and dies. It will not immediately restart. Turn off the ignition key for a few minutes and it starts back up and may travel 1 mile or 10 miles before it dies again. It appears after the first failure the interval between stalls gets shorter and shorter until the car is left alone over night. the next day i get 40-50 miles and it stalls. I loosened the fuel line at the filter under the hood and during the period it wont start there doesn't appear to be any fuel pressure. Is there a more acurate way to test if the fuel pump is failing or the sensors that control it are?
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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I have a PS 6.0 in my '04F350 that starts very reliably but stalls within 1-2 seconds. Restarts after cranking for 5-30 seconds. This only occurs if the truck sits for more than 6 hours. The longer the truck sits, the longer it has to crank to restart. Also if the tank is full and the truck is parked pointing down hill this does not occur, if it is parked pointing up hill it occurs even with a full tank. Shows no codes. I've had several mechanics look at it and no one has been able to explain or propose a solution expect for wholesale replacement of parts. The symptoms indicate to me that air is getting into the fuel system but I'm not sure where to look.
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I'm having an issue with the truck not staying idle after cold start up. The truck will turn over and start right away (not even 2 second crank) but immediately dies. The throttle will not work at low RPM. When I start the truck, it will instantly rev high, the revs will drop low, it will try to compensate and rev high again, then it will immediately die.
If the RPMs are under under 2.5k, the truck will immediately stall and die. When I attempt to use the throttle under that RPM, it will not work. No matter how much I depress it, the engine will instantly cut and stall out. It will not attempt to deliver fuel. The only way I can get the truck started is if I rev the engine high and hold it. I need to hold the truck at 2.5k+ RPM for atleast 30 seconds. It generally takes me about 5 tries to finally get it running (mainly due to the throttle immediately cutting out and I have to 'catch' and hold it.) After that, there is no sign or issue. The truck will start immediately back up after it's been running for a couple minutes.
CEL: MAP sensor (0069?) -- Sensor is spotless. Harness looks fine. I replaced the injectors, both batteries, and the alternator this summer. It doesn't sound to be any these either as the truck sounds extremely healthy and immediately turns over.
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Truck has a rough idle and finally just stalls out. I replace the under valve cover wiring harness and put in new glow plugs. With valve covers still off I started the truck in the issue still persist. I went ahead and unplugged each injector and each time the motor had a hick up .
What am I pulling apart and replacing next?
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Ok here is the back story over the last couple months with this late build 04 6.0 with 230,xxx miles. I had problems with it losing oil pressure at idle, which lead me to replace the hpop. After that repair the truck still wouldn't run right so i had it taken to my local shop for some diagnostics. They fixed a few electrical issues and got it running, also telling my I had 2 injectors on the way out. Due to expenses I replaced only the 2 injectors in my driveway. A few days later the ipr screen got plugged and failed. Replaced that, and changed the oil, and it ran for a week.
Now for this weeks problems. Yesterday the truck lost all power and stalled out on my wife. She pulled the codes while I was at work and this is what was listed
P0404-60===
Code: P0404 - EGR valve position control performance or range fault
P0405-60===
Code: P0405 - EGR Sensor A Circuit Low
P1335-60===
Code: P1335 - EGR Position Sensor Minimum Stop Performance
P2290-60===
Code: P2290 - ICP Too Low
Using forscan she forced the IPR 80% open and the truck would start but as soon as you try to accelerate it stalls out. Today i got the truck to start the same way. While idling the IPR was at 44% and I had about 870 psi at the icp. As soon as i would throttle up the icp would drop to around 400.
The hpop i put in a couple months ago is covered under a 1 year warranty and that's what I am leaning towards because of the plugged ipr last week. I waned to see what the great minds hear thought as well.
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1999 7.3l 6spd standard 4x4. Just bought the truck 4 months ago knowing it had a problem that once warm occasionally would t start. Happened a few times every week or two. But wait 15 minutes and the truck would fire back up. Then it started happening more often throughout a day. And I would have to wait longer for it to cool to start it up.
Icp has been changed
Cam sensor
Pulled valve covers to check to see if there were any injector o rings failing. They were all good. Put it all back together.
Pulled the IPR and tore it apart cleaned it all out
Started driving it ran great for a week. Then today sitting at a light the truck died just as if I had turned the key off. Wouldn't start for 3 hours. The. Fired up. Took it to buddies show and started checking things out again. Both batteries load test great and fully charged. Alternator pumping out 13.5 and up.
Codes i have pulled are waste gate to high /low
I forget the number for that one. The second was P1211. Cps has been changed and ipr cleaned. Think that I should replace the ipr of this happens again?
I did get w code a few weeks ago about low voltage at module. this code doesn't appear anymore. Since I checked the plug ins all looks good. But the PCM wasn't mounted properly. So I fixed that up and checked battery connections. They were very good so I re did all of that.
Anyway. Back to the problem. After ipr clean. Drove as she should until sitting at a light a week later. Truck just quit. Would t start back up until cold. Any thoughts. New IPR? Oil in hpop within half inch from top. And I don't seem to have any oil leaks. Did oil change fuel and air filter. Not low on any fluids. I had a 1997 too and threw a bunch of cash at it like this one trying to find the issues.
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I have a 03 20th ae gti with about 84k just replaced the coil packs. driving on the freeway then power just goes away, press on gas and nothing. limp it off the freeway. Then it starts to die at idle and hardly turns over. car is pretty much stock. new clutch at 75k.
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but 2nd time 6.0 psd owner. 2 weeks ago we picked up an '03 Excursion and were thrilled because it's been running like a dream and getting great mileage. However, according to my wife just yesterday, and after me driving it today, we have a big problem.
The engine starts, momentarily runs smooth, but then quickly becomes very rough. When trying to drive, it will make decent power, but it has an "off" feel to it, like it doesn't quite make as much power as it did, and it has a slight vibration to it.
Then when you coast to come to a stop, or pull in our driveway, it runs REALLY rough and badly, and usually stalls. I have begun the troubleshooting process. Here's what I know: Ficm tests good - 7 pin w/key on only gives ~46V (only tested w/voltmeter) Had an oil change done today and added a bottle of Hot Shot, will add the fuel treatment when we put more diesel in Believe ICP sensor to be OK. I unplugged it and no change Appears all injectors are firing since it ran down the highway decently, AND you can hear all injectors 'triggering' in a uniform manner with key on Turbo probably isn't sticking because made great power before, and decent power even with the problem NO Check engine lights / codes thrown
Details about the truck:Early '03 w/ 189,000 miles EGR delete done in a previous life w/ IPD kit Turbocharger replaced, in a previous life Headgaskets done, in a previous life (no ARPs though )
Questions & next steps:Even if there was no change w/ ICP unplugged, does that truly rule the ICP out completely? Could the IPR be the culprit?
Others? I have ordered a Scangage 2 and it will be here Tuesday. What's the first thing I should check? To me, this very much seems like an electrical problem; my gut tells me it's some kind of sensor or electrical signal error. What's the best way to investigate this path?
The engine turns over very well, and sounds very uniform so I don't think compression is the issue. Head gaskets have been done, although not with ARP studs. Batteries are very fresh and turn it over very fast. I have already learned a ton reading through these forums and just need some additional direction & brainstorming!
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Rough idle I have had for little bit.Would stall out at idle or a stop, but fire right up? No one could figure it out with the stalling, but now its bad, started yesterday. Have white/blueish smoke sometimes, ( white smoke smells fuel) on restart after warmed when it dies, first time it took 25 mins to restart, now only takes 5 to 15 mins, when I step on it INCREDIBLE full power, fuel mileage gone to hell also since yesterday. Had full tank, now 1/2 tank.
No problems on cold start at all, no check light, 325,000 and never had this before.
Bad fuel?
ICP?
FICM?
Recent work, new turbo, ( turbo was original turbo installed when built) cooling line to waterpump, oil change, new fuel filters, front brakes and 2 new batteries.
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I have a 2004 f250 i purchased a month ago. Its been cold in Denver this last month which is why I didn't mind it much. But now that its been in the 70s im concerned. Its always the first start up that it acts up. I go to turn the truck on and it starts idling for only a sec or two, then shuts off. I crank it about 3-4 times before it actually comes on and stays on. There is black smoke not white smoke once it starts to idle. Once idling it stays on and drives the way it should. If i try to start the truck again it will do so with out hesitation. I just did a tune up at grease monkey including fuel filters and oil filter. again its the first start up always.
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A while back my 05' f350 6.0 was having rough starts and an erratic idle. It died coming up to a stop sign it started back up after 2 cranks and then it did that same on the way home. The next day leaving work it wouldn't start. I knew i had a couple injectors on the way out so i decided it was time to replace all 8 upon tearing it down i noticed my oil cooler was leaking so i figured it was time to rebuild that and finally do the egr delete that i had been wanting to do. well i put it all back together and got a no start.
The dash gauge on my oil pressure is reading normal when i cranked it so i went and bought a scangauge2 to read the icp its hitting 1500psi when i crank it. The ipr% is reading good. But my ficm main power is at 26v with the key on then it drop to 14v while cranking and eventually down to about 9v. Its never at the 48v that its suppose to be at. The scan gauge is also showing that my ficm sync=0. Would the sync be showing 0 since the ficm is bad? My batteries are fully charged and i have both of them on the charger while I am cranking it.
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