Camry :: 2002 V6 Stalls On Idle Instantly After Battery Replacement
Nov 6, 2011
Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
View 12 Replies
Advertisement
today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
View 14 Replies
Last week, I brought my 2002 Ford Focus (automatic transmission) to the mechanic to have an oil change and to have the motor mounts and cabin air filter replaced. Before I brought the car in, it was fairly loud at idle--which had been going on for a couple of years and which I attributed to the worn motor mounts--but had otherwise been running fine.
When I went to pick it up after the repairs, the car would not start. The mechanic ran some tests and told me that the alternator was overcharging the battery. The battery could no longer hold a charge, so both the alternator and the battery needed to be replaced, which the mechanic did.
I thought at first that everything was OK after the battery and alternator replacement. Because I almost always turn my car off immediately after putting it in park, I didn't realize what was happening and that it was a problem... but in retrospect, I realize that ever since I got the car back from this second set of repairs, the battery light has flashed on during the split second between when I shift to park and when I turn the ignition off.
Yesterday, I took my car back to the mechanic because it stalled when I was in the parking lot at work. (I realize now that it must have happened just after I shifted gears, probably into park.) Since that was the first time it had actually properly stalled--rather than just a quick battery light flash just before I turned the car off--I had not yet made the connection between the stalling and the shifting to park, so all I told the mechanic is that it stalled on me when I was slowing to a stop. I'm pretty sure the first time it stalled was the first time I let it idle for more than a half-second in park before turning off the ignition.
He kept my car for a full day and ran a lot of tests on it. He was unable to make the car stall during multiple test drives (though, to be fair, I hadn't told him that the trigger for making it stall was shifting to park because I didn't realize it myself yet). There were no engine codes, the check engine light was never on, the fuel pressure is OK, and the throttle body position sensor, the idle air control valve, the ignition system, and the fuel system were giving no abnormal readings. When I asked, he told me that they did perform an idle-relearn procedure after replacing the battery and alternator. He returned the car to me and told me to come back if it stalled again.
Tonight, when I got the car home, it started to die immediately when I put it into park (the headlights dimmed and the battery light came on). I was able to reproduce this a second time as well. Fortunately, it does start back up just fine.
I plan to take the car in for repairs again, but I'm wondering if I should go back to the same mechanic. My questions are:
1) What is likely to be causing the problem?
2) Is it something that is likely to have been caused by incompetence when installing the new battery and alternator or doing other repairs, or could it be a coincidence (I was willing to believe the first coincidence of the battery and alternator dying while the car was at the repair shop, but I'm having difficulty believing a second coincidence)?
3) Whether or not the problem is likely to be the mechanic's fault, is it something that a thorough check on their part should have discovered?
View 4 Replies
My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
View 4 Replies
2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
View 7 Replies
I have a 97 ford f150 with a 5.4 I bought the truck with 114000 miles on it and the exhaust manifold bolts were broke from the exhaust I have replace the whole manifold with new gaskets and bolts and I get the codes 1131 and 1151 which indicates o2 sensors indicate lean and I also get p0136 and p0153 which indicate lean or front o2 sensors it will stay running for a little bit every once in a while but it only idles at 200 to 400 rpms and I'm not sure what to do?
View 4 Replies
My son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
View 10 Replies
Background: Sonata 2009 Limited. 165K Miles. Original factory installed everything. Chicago area.
Last week I drove to the mall in the snow. Headlights worked fine. Upon leaving the mall I realized that my low beam headlights were not working.
Purchased and installed one low beam headlight bulb, on the slim chance that both of them simply burned out at the same time. It didn't come on.
Results of an internet search indicated that the fuse might be blown. I pulled the 20amp Low Beam headlight fuse and sure enough it was bad. Put in a new fuse. Turned on the headlights and it blew instantly.
Have been driving with the high-beams the past 5 days. Only one car has "blinked" at me, so driving with the high-beams isn't a problem. Probably because there are so many cars with really bright low-beam headlights these days.
However, I would like some guidance to getting this problem resolved. What are the most likely reasons for the low-beam headlight fuse blowing instantly like this?
View 1 Replies
I just bought a '12 Camry SE I4 about 6 months ago. It stalls at first startup after disconnecting and reconnecting the battery. After the first start and stall it will start normally. A pending code will come up P1604 'Startability Malfunction.' The code doesn't have a real definition other than the engine failed to start. It has a new AGM battery, serpentine belt, and the alternator passed a bench test. Had this problem with the 2.5L I4 or the 3.5L V6? Is this normal?
View 8 Replies
I have a 2007 prius with 107,000 miles. At first start up in the morning, the battery is at blue then instantly goes to black (empty) then revs up to recharge then goes to green. Like its not keeping a charge. This morning it revved up so much I thought it was going to explode. No warning lights on.
View 1 Replies
Since having dealer work on my brakes: replaced booster and brake light switch. While at the deal the changed all the fluids. Now my EX has been intermittently stalling when stopped in drive with AC running. When it stalled the OD light was flashing. Now we have noticed that the EX is sputtering when stopped while in drive and may stall. Also, itermittently seeing the the ABS light come on. Today it stalled and now the CEL is ON.
View 14 Replies
I'd like to know how to replace the battery in the key fob for my 2002 Passat Wagon. I looked in the manual but I could not find it and it says that the dealer should do it. I am aware that sometimes the fob may need to be re-programmed but my wife's key works perfectly so I will assume that the battery has gone out. The key works just fine when used manually.Also, what kind of battery does it take??
View 2 Replies
Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
View 4 Replies
I just replaced my battery and alternator this evening on my 2004 F-150 5.4L. After driving it around a bit, the idle is dropping to about 100 RPM almost to a point of stalling when coming to stop. It slowly creeps back up to a normal idle shortly after.
View 4 Replies
I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 Prius with 70,000 miles on it. The car broker replaced one cell which lasted about 15oo miles.
Code P3022 tells me I need a replacement battery.
The internet tells me Gen 2 and 3 cells are better than Gen 1.
Luscious Garage says don't buy a rebuilt battery with old cells, buy a new one.
Toyota tells me they only sell batteries with rebuilt old cells from Gen 2.
One person told me he would sell me a brand new Gen 1 battery with Gen 1 cells manufactured by Toyota. Does this sound right? or rebuild Gen 1 Batteries with NEW Gen 2 or 3 cells?
View 19 Replies
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
View 14 Replies
So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
View 5 Replies
My Forester was dead one morning and when I went to jump it off my pick-up in a hurry I did the age old palm to forehead and didn't pay close attention to the posts on my pick-up battery. Crossed the posts.So I began working through the common known issues.Replaced the main fuse. Didn't Start.Replaced the battery. Started... Car shut off while driving. Did not sputter out, simply cut out like turning the key off.Started right back up.Positive battery cable was loose. Replaced it.Grounds are good.Alternator output is good.So here are some more details on the car shutting off.
This last time as I was coming home from the store and the car shut off on the main road through town. I had enough momentum to get off to the side of the road. I tried to start it and it would turn over. Normal turn over sound but the car wouldn't start. I took a minute to check other electrical things in the car with key in the "on" position. Radio worked. Dome/interior lights worked. But then I noticed something strange. None of the dash lights came on (Car is not started but key is in "on" position). The windows did not work either.It started after about 5 minutes time and I made it home, forgot to roll the windows back up. Turned key to "on" again and couldn't roll the windows up. Got out of the car and came back after about 5 minutes, turned key to "on" and the dash lights came on the windows rolled up.
View 1 Replies
I've got a strange problem with the keyfobs on my 2006 Camry. I tried replacing the batteries in both keyfobs and reprogramming them, but they still will not unlock the door. I suspect there is an issue with some computer part in the car that is preventing it from working. This was my sequence of events:
1. The key fob stopped working, so I replaced the battery. No luck.
2. Found the spare fob, didn't work either so I replaced that battery too. Still didn't work.
3. Reprogrammed both remotes using the steps (pasted below for readability). The programming was successful because the door locks cycled after adding each remote to the ecu on step 13.
However, after exiting the vehicle the locks still weren't working.
The steps I followed to reprogram the key fob:
1. Begin with the key out of the ignition.
2. OPEN and UNLOCK the DRIVER'S side door. CLOSE all other doors including the trunk.
3. Within 5 seconds INSERT the key into the ignition and PULL it out TWICE.
4. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
5. Insert key INTO the ignition then REMOVE it.
6. CLOSE then OPEN the DRIVER's side door TWICE.
7. Insert the key INTO the ignition and LEAVE it in ignition.
8. CLOSE the DRIVER's side door.
9. Switch the ignition to ON then OFF.
10. REMOVE the key from ignition.
11. The door locks will now cycle to confirm the vehicle has successfully entered programming mode.
12. PUSH and HOLD the LOCK and UNLOCK button for 1.5 seconds on the first remote being programmed. As soon as you let go PUSH the LOCK button and HOLD it for 2 seconds.
13. The door locks will cycle to confirm successful programming of the remote. If you have any additional remotes to program repeat step 12 if you have no additional remotes proceed to step 14.
14. OPEN the DRIVER'S side door. Programming is now complete. [URL].................
View 2 Replies
I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
View 2 Replies
