Ford Excursion :: 2002 V10 Stalls At Idle With AC Running
Aug 16, 2008
Since having dealer work on my brakes: replaced booster and brake light switch. While at the deal the changed all the fluids. Now my EX has been intermittently stalling when stopped in drive with AC running. When it stalled the OD light was flashing. Now we have noticed that the EX is sputtering when stopped while in drive and may stall. Also, itermittently seeing the the ABS light come on. Today it stalled and now the CEL is ON.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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The car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
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I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
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This is for a friends gasser V-10. It has a new fuel pump and oil change. Wont idle or stay running?
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I bought my 2002 Excursion 6.8L about 2yrs ago, no less than a week of having it I started to have all sorts of problems. (insert nagging wife here) the biggest of problems was the darn thing started to run very rough and the ABS light cont to flash, then the truck just died (engine stopped, EXTREMELY scary in a intersection) I replaced the VSS in the rear diff.. acted a little better for a while then..no luck. I called around to every ford dealer in town. I need more break light fluid to there isn't enough grease on my wobbler pin?
So I got the initiative to simplify what I was seeing and hearing. I found that there was an OSS sensor on the tail of the transmission...drove my very intense self up to the dealership and bought myself a new OSS sensor. I got home and replaced it, then I drove my truck under the largest shade tree I could find and replaced all the coils and spark plugs. (Insert bloody knuckles and curse words here) Job Done. I thought to myself if this doesn't fix it then I don't know what to do. (I couldn't sell it)...again the point being...the truck has never ran better, gas mileage has doubled and the true power of the v10 has been restored. I found 4 different types of spark plugs in it and 3 different types of coils...?
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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2002 Exc, 7.3L TD, Some one broke into the truck last week by jaming a screwdriver into the door key lock. Tried to pull the ignition out but failed. Pulled the A/V system out, cutting wires and such. So the dealer (insurance covered it ) installed the new door lock and said nothing is wrong with the ignition. But now the dome lights and running board lights come on at random and kill the batteries.
Could it be the ignition? Or something inside the driver's door? The batteries are brand new.
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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2002 V10 72k, starts fine, runs fine, occasionally misfires and will stall at idle. So far.
Replace boots
Replaced Air Filter
Tested resistance in all coil packs all within value
CODE P0720 - OSS (replaced, knew it wasn't it but...)
Seafoamed truck (very anticlimatic)
Cleaned MAS
Headed to clean IAC next.
Still has the original plugs, any reason to change them yet?
Does the IAC have a function when engine is at temperature? Getting ready to bite the bullet on AE. Any first hand experience with AE? I STFF and couldn't find anything.
I'm about 90% convinced it's a bad COP, but I'm not about to buy 10 of them on I think. Also not inclined to switch each COP with a known good one. I'm hoping the AE will show misfires and pending codes.
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have an 02 f250 V10 with a rough idle (90K Miles). It's not horrible but it's obviously not running perfect. Everything seems ok when I am up and driving, especially at freeway speeds. I recently noticed that if the truck is in park and I run the RPM's to 1500 or 2K and quickly let off the gas it will die. It never throws any codes. So far I have replaced the IAC Valve, fuel filter, O2 Sensors, PCV valve, cleaned the MAF sensor and replaced the air filter. Plugs and boots were replaced 5K miles ago. Fuel trim levels on both banks are running around -3.1 to positive 3.5 based on what the computer is telling me. Also according to the computer the vacuum sits steady around 25 at idle (+ or - .2). I don't have a manual vacuum gauge, just relying on the computer. I've also gone around to every plug and disconnected both the injector wire and the COP wire and they all seem to equally affect the idle as well as the fuel trim levels.
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Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
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I have a 2000 Ford Focus Wagon with 114,00o miles on it. I'm having a problem determining why it is stalling in reverse and also sometimes while it is idling. I've had the idle speed motor replaced, hoses checked, etc. After we had these things done the car seemed a little better but I could still feel the car hinting at wanting to stall.
I also noticed it usually stalls in reverse when I'm turning the steering wheel but not if I'm backing up in a straight line. It also feels like it wants to stall when it sits at a long traffic light. Before I had the idle speed motor replaced it stalled more often - several times a week. However, now it stalls a little less.
On another note, the car seems to idle a little rough. It almost sounds like a diesel engine. It seems to simmer down some once the engine is warm. I had a new water pump installed and a timing belt put in and now I can hear a squeaking sound coming from that area of the engine. I'm not sure if any of these symptoms are related.
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My buds 2003 4.6 liter stalls every time he takes his foot off the pedal. Runs fine otherwise, no roughness or anything, you just have to keep your foot on the thing to keep it from dying out.
We checked for codes and found none. I checked vacuum connections and they looked OK.
Is there an easy way to test the IAC or should we just throw a new one in and cross our fingers? If we do change it out, does the truck need to be driven around a bit for the computer to re-learn anything?
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99 explorer 4.0 automatic, lately been running weird. Starts up but will stall out unless you let it warm up. And idle drops below 500 rpm. And is really rough feeling. To like 2 or 300 rpm, then will stall but will start right back up. When I changed spark plugs and wires problem stopped for about 2 weeks and now is back. And has no engine code.
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I changed the plugs on my 2004 F-150 FX4 with 165,000 miles. Immediately afterwards I experienced a low idle problem. After engine warms up, idle is at about 400 rpm in nuetral or park. When I put in gear it drops to 200 rpm and sometimes stalls. Ford analyzer says misfire #8 cylinder. I swapped coils with #7 and reset fault. #8 cylinder misfire came back. So next I put new plug in #8 thinking the plug was bad. Still have low idle problem. What I should try next?
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I have a 2001 f350 v10 that has been giving me fits. has 88000 miles. cranks and starts when cold or fuel pressure is below 40 psi. SES light will flash when it stalls and fuel pressure goes from 30 while running to 40 and the fuel pump runs continuously when this happens and truck will not start. replaced crank sensor and fuel pump was changed about two months ago. if I relieve fuel pressure it will start and run for short time then stall and fuel pump stays on. all fuses are good. I am at a loss.
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I have a 2002 Explorer with a 4.0 It has started stalling right after it starts. It will idle for 1-2 seconds and then stall. After it stalls, it will not start again. If you let it sit for about 15 mins, it will usually start. If you just bump the starter and let it idle and die a few times, it will start and the engine will race for about a few seconds and then come back down to an idle. It runs fine otherwise. There seems no rhyme or reason to it. Hot, cold, etc. I do notice that it smells like gas after it starts like an old carb engine does when it is flooded.
It shows a p1401 code but has since I have owned it the last two years. I unhooked the battery overnight and after that, it ran fine for about a week. I unhooked it again last night for about 30 min and had no luck. Maybe just a coincidence.
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I've been having a problem with my car stalling when I brake. It only seems to happen when it's warm outside and I have been running errands and stop for brief periods of time. After about the third stop the car will stall and I have to keep restarting it and keep my foot on the gas. My mechanic seems to think it's the IAC valve. I'm not convinced based on what I've read.
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