Camry :: 2002 - Starts / Revs And Stalls
Jan 29, 2013
So the wife's 02 Camry (I4/ auto) would not start for her & so I started the usual trouble shooting, fuel, spark, combustion, etc. Scan tool found 5 codes p0300 thru p0304, found the plugs to be soaked and not looking so hot in general (replaced plugs, it was time/105k). Now I can start the car but only if I hold throttle open, so when it starts if I let off it stalls, unless I hold it at 2500 rpms for 2 to 3 minutes, the car then will hold idle. If I try to mat the pedal to the flr it falls on it's face (nearly stalls, in gear or park). If I ease into the pedal the car runs without any issues, can stroll down the highway 70/80 mph with cruies or pedal. Currently no codes but will not take fast acceleration. If the car sits for any amount of time I have to hold throttle open to start it/ large cloud of smoke, smells liek raw fuel. Cleaned MAF, throttle body, etc...
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We've had two problems within the last week with our 2002 Sport Trac (4.0l SOHC engine w/167,xxx miles). They may be unrelated, but I suspect there's good change they are. Both incidents happened while my 16 yo daughter was driving, so there's only very limited info on what happens. Both times, when I get there, it starts and runs fine. There is no CEL.
The first time it apparently stalled as she neared her destination after driving only about 2-3 miles at 35 mph or less after a cold start. She was slowing to pull into a parking lot and reported the dash lit up with warning lights, no power steering assist and no power brakes and no power from the engine. When I arrived it started and ran normally. She had fulled up the day before after two days of heavy rain, so I suspected water in the gas. I drove it more than 200 miles within the next 24 hours under a variety of conditions and filled up at a different station. I experienced no problem what-so-ever, and didn't bother adding any dry gas.
Then 5 days later (still on my fill-up) when she tried starting it after sitting all day, she reported the engine started but ran rough before stalling and never idled normally.
Doesn't the fact there's no CEL eliminate a lot of the upstream part of the control system......like sensors and actuators? This leaves things like the downstream parts of the fuel and ignition systems. I.e. from the fuel tank / pump to the injectors and the downstream parts of the ignition system.
What are the possible culprits? Fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, injectors, ignition module, spark plugs, and....... what else? (I'm not that familiar with what these engines have) And of the possibilities, what are the most likely causes.
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I have a 2003 Camry 3.0l v6. Stalls at lights random.
Currently the car stalls at stops but this doesn't happen all the time it can go a month in between the problem occurring its very random. While sitting at a light the rpms drop and then it revs up and cycles like that for quite a while. This will also occur while cruising at a low speed while I'm just coasting the rpms will go up and down. I can compensate while stopped by power braking and keeping it at its normal idling rpm. I have no check engine lights and can't seem to determine what would be causing this issue.
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2002 BMW 325i. It starts then stalls. It stalled in the middle of the road the other day while I was going REAL slow. Now it's totally unreliable. If it starts it leaves me stranded. Turn over just fine never engages.
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Yesterday I drove 15 minutes to a store and came out after 15 minutes. With no previous problems, I put the key in the ignition and there was no power at all. I checked the battery and it appeared ok. I opened the fuse box, not really knowing what I was looking for, and it looked dirty with no obvious signs of something wrong, I think. About 5 minutes later the car's power came back on but once started it idled very low and died. I tried it again and kept giving it gas and it kept idleing low and would shut off. I made it home without having to stop the car at all, meaning made all lights and no stop signs, I didnt run anything. At home I turned the car off and back on and everything ran fine. Car idled normally, would start up every time, and I drove around the block without incident. I've read information in the forum about the low idle and stall but didnt see anything that referenced the complete lack of power before the idle problem started.
2002 Toyota Camry LE, 128,000 miles.
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My son had the car and put the window down and it would not go back up. Had to drive 13 miles in below zero temperatures to get home. After searching online and doing some checking on the vehicle we found that the Driver's PW switch was dead. Went and got a used switch and replaced it and the window works find. SO, the husband goes to start it and the battery is dead so he put a charger on it and it did start but it stalls right away. It will stay running if you have your foot on the gas but as soon as you let off it stalls. If it idles at all before it dies it it does so erratically.
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I have a 02 Saturn sl2 and every time I pump gas, the nozzle will click every few dollars as if my tank is full even when its near empty or half full.
2 weeks ago: I started my engine up and went about a few feet then my engine went dead. My car would crank but not fire up and I wasn't getting a reading on the instrument panel so I figured it was a fuel pump related problem. I took a look at the fuse panel for any fuses that could be blown or in bad shape. The only fuse I pulled out was the PCM-b fuse but upon further inspection, it was good and after that, it started up fine.
Next day: I get gas after work, drive home, grab a few things, start the car up, get a few feet, dies, won't start, its instrument panel reading, pull the same fuse, put the same fuse back, go on my way.
Next week: So I haven't put any gas in my car for a week and it has been working perfectly. I start to get near 1/4 tank so I put another $25 of gas in, started my car up and only got far enough to get away from the pumps when I notice my gas gauge going down, low rpm, and lost power steering. My car then died as I was pulling into a parking space. I did the same little trick and it started up again.
Today: Make a list of reasons why my car is stalling and plan to fix them from cheapest to most expensive. Start with putting gas line antifreeze as I rule out if there is water in my tank or not. ( I meant to put in one with water absorber, but I put a normal bottle in) Start my car up, get to school which is about 6-10km and when I was pulling in I noticed that my gauge was almost empty. I stopped the car and went to start it up again to see if I would get a new reading but my car just cranked. Tried a few more times but it wouldn't start until I did my little pcm-b fuse trick.
Now I am just wondering what you people think could be the problem but this is my conclusions and debates.
Water/Air in the tank - Why would does my car stop giving me an reading on my instrument panel after it stalls.PCM fault -Why does it only happen shortly after I open my gas tank (or maybe coincidence)PCM fuse blew -It works after I put it back inFuel filter clogged or fuel pump blew -why does my car start after I do the fuse trick.
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Every once in a while I'll go to start my car and it will stall right away. I'll try again and it will continue to stall. If I give it gas as soon as it starts I can keep it running. Yesterday it did this when I left from work. I held the rpm's at about 1500 and after about 10 seconds the rpm's jump about 200 or 300 and it idled. Sometimes it even idles really low. About 500 rpm. I've done plugs and wires (oem), air filter, PVC, ecu coolant temp sensor, fuel cleaners every 3 or 4 months. This has happened about 6 times in the passed 4 months. Runs great otherwise b
1998 Toyota Camry, 2.2l, Automatic, 125,000 miles
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1990 Toyota Camry.4cyl Starts normally drives about 50 or so miles and dies. It will not immediately restart. Turn off the ignition key for a few minutes and it starts back up and may travel 1 mile or 10 miles before it dies again. It appears after the first failure the interval between stalls gets shorter and shorter until the car is left alone over night. the next day i get 40-50 miles and it stalls. I loosened the fuel line at the filter under the hood and during the period it wont start there doesn't appear to be any fuel pressure. Is there a more acurate way to test if the fuel pump is failing or the sensors that control it are?
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 which I bought a month ago from its original owner. It has 140k miles on it. Timming belt and water pump were changed at 90k, car is in very good shape, clean engine.
It has a weird issue.
In the early morning, from my house to work around 7am, I have to drive around 20 mins on freeway , I exit and drive for another 5 mins on local street which is up and downhill, at red light or when I have to turn, the car begins to hesitate like hiccup and stall on me. The car cannot start again immediately, all power is still working, the car is trying its best to turn over but it fails. However after I wait couple mins, I can restart the car. Then, the car will run just fine, absolutely fine the rest of the day.
The weird thing here is, on days I don't have to work, I start to drive it at around 10am when it's warmer and there's sunshine, and not up and downhill, it never hesitates or stalls. Even I try to drive it up a big hill near my house at noon, nothing happens. So I'm not sure if driving up and downhill playing a part in this problem.
It doesn't happen all the time when I have to drive to work in early morning, up and downhill, but more than often. The car drives great on freeway, idle excellent around 500-600 RPM. One more detail, the gas pedal kind of vibrates (very small vibration) around 1600 RPM, and it's annoying. I'm not sure if it is relating to the issue.
Here what I did to the car:
1. Clean throttle body.
2. Clean Mass Airflow Sensor. Didn't work. Then I replaced it with a used OEM one.
3. Put Techron Additive in the gas tank.
4. Replace Air Filter.
None of the above works, but I think somehow it improves a tiny little bit.
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today I replaced the battery on our 2002 Camry SE 2.4l because it was incredibly slow to crank today...but it did crank. So i get a Duralast Gold to replace a Toyota TrueStart battery, and it started up fine. However, it was idling at 200-400 RPMs, so its already not right. So I drive it a quick mile or so, and when letting off the gas the RPMs drop to 200-400 while going down the street! Coming to a stop, it really wanted to stall out. Couple stops later, it did stall out, and the Check Engine light, Battery light, and Oil light all came on. Trying to restart it it cranked, started, but then immediately died. You know when you start it the RPM needle goes high and then comes down a bit? It does that, but the needle won't stop and it just goes to 0, and throws the Check Engine, battery, and oil light. I finally got it cranked, and all 3 previously mentioned lights are off when its running. It has done it one other time about 3 months ago when I disconnected the negative battery terminal for some work, and it did the same exact thing. It ended up just fixing itself, but obviously not since its rough starting and the problem came back the next time I disconnected the battery.
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I have a 2002 camry that stalls out while driving. The car stalls when engine is warmed up and the car is running at appropriate temperature. When this occurs no "check engine lights" stay on and the car re-starts after 15-20 minutes and runs just fine. I had the car looked at by a Toyota dealer and another independent shop and they where unable to pull any codes from the computer module. The car is up to schedule with routine maintenance items. The car is garage kept and I go to the same gas station each fill up.
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My wife has a 2002 Camry V6 SE with about 75k miles. Over the past 6 months the car has developed a problem. Every so often, say once every 2-3 weeks the car will start fine, but after driving for about 5-10 minutes, will start running rough and stall if I stop for a light. It will start again, (with a little effort) and will stall again at the next stop and so on. I can pull off the road, wait 10 minutes and the car will then run like a Swiss watch until the next episode.
I have taken the car to a respected mechanic and he sees nothing obvious wrong and there is no record in the car's computer of any problem. The last time this happened the car had been on the road for about 20 minutes before the stalling problem occurred. I kept the car going at idle by putting in neutral and increasing the throttle.
After we arrived home, the car cut out when we made it into the garage but a rotten egg-like smell was in the air in the garage. After about an hour, the car stated immediately and ran like a top. That was about a week ago and no problems since. I have read in the threads about EGRs Throttle bodies etc.
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2002 Camry 4 cly was running great. All the sudden looses power, stalls (won't idle), engine light came on, when I held gas pedal at 1000 rpm engine rev's 1000 - 1400 rpm. Autozone trouble codes P0300, P0301, P0302, P0171, P0420. Car barely runs, getting worse quickly. I also smelled hot metal when I pulled into driveway, exhaust tail pipe was superhot.
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Just got the battery replaced on my v6 Camry, had no problems before it. After replacing the battery, I drove about a mile to another stop and parked the car. Noticed it vibrating and the idles very low. I restarted the car and it wouldn't stay on. Car will turn on fine, RPMs will go a bit above 1k and drop down and turn off in about 5 seconds.
Today morning I started it and it seemed fine (cold start). Idles were about 1K on a cold start. Drove around about a mile and came home and the car stalled. Same as above, it'll start up and stall within 5 seconds.
I took it for a drive (about 25 miles) so the car can re-learn everything and took a stop at Autozone. Same thing there. Didn't stall on the way because I didn't have to stop, I was on the highway. One of the sales guys looked at the car and told me to try out a new MAF Sensor. Installed a new sensor and the car died off again within 5 seconds. Checked the readings of the MAF sensor (old and new) and they both read fine.
Brought the car back home (about 35 miles total driving after battery replacement) and it'll still stall as soon as you stop. To keep it going, you have to hold the brake and hit the accelerator very lightly to keep the idle in the middle of 0 and 1 or shift into Neutral and do the same.
No CELs on the car, car drove perfectly fine before the new battery. New battery tests good, even went to the extent of putting my old battery back in (Drove about 35 miles on new battery, replaced and drove 35ish miles). Car has just short of 100k miles. Regular services are done at Toyota at about 5-6k.
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I drive a 2002 Toyota Camry. Mostly runs great! If I drive on the freeway at 60-70 mph for 30-45 minutes, when I get off on surface streets the engine starts to die. I have to keep one foot on the brake and one foot on the accelerator to keep the engine >1000rpm. When I park at my destination and park the car for 1-2 hours, everything is fine when I start up again. Happens repeatedly - not always, maybe 95% of the time. Two mechanics can't figure it out and are unable to reproduce the problem after they drive the car on the freeway.
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Starts up fine but the car does not move. Car also has loud whine on cold starts coming out of driver side fender. It will also whine above 2000 rpm even after sitting out in the sun but goes away after driving. The car is at my parent's place and will be able to look at it later today..
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2002 Camry is jerking and bucking at high speeds then stalls after coming to a stop. Will restart immediately if you give it gas. Then I must keep pressure on accelerator at all times even while stopped or car stalls. Shut car off and let sit for 20 to 30 minutes. Once restarting must give it gas, but then car runs without stalling. However has no trouble on cold start.
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2002 Camry with check engine light steady on and car shutting off when coming to a stop. Diagnostics revealed error codes P0440, P0441, P0446, P0442 indicating evaporation problem. Found broken closed canister valve. Had valve replaced and check engine light went off. Technician says VSC/TRAC lights were on also when he pulled the car in.
They had not been on before. Now the VSC/TRAC lights are coming on and staying on when the car starts moving. The code is c1336, something about yaw rate sensor. Is there something that still needs to be reset or does this mean that the sensor is bad and what and where is this yaw rate sensor?
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I've replaced the started the starter several times now and the car will start once then just click. I found that if I disconnect and reconnect the battery cable it'll start one time and then just click. So something seems to be getting reset when the battery is disconnected.
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I'm having this issue with my 2002 camry, but it won't start, so i can take it to a mechanic, and a house call is too expensive.
The car starts at almost 3000 rpm for a few seconds then white smoke starts coming out of the front and back... the front seems to be from the front catalytic converter . Then the car starts stalling and finally shuts off
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