Tucson :: 2006 - Shaking / Wobbling Rear Tires?
Oct 24, 2015
My 2006 Tucson runs great 99% of the time. Every once in a while though, the rear of the suv shakes as if a tire is about to fall off. It lasts for a few minutes and then is gone until the next episode. I have had the tires and wheels checked and they are fine. The only other issue with the vehicle is a rattle from the rear when going over bumps....as if there is something loose by the spare tire (but there is not). I was told that the bushings needed to be replaced, but that would cause the rattle noise only, not the issue with the shaking. There is no problem with the front end or steering wheel shaking at all, it definitely is from the rear only.
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I bought a 2007 Saturn ION Coupe the end of December 2006. I have had the car 4 mos and keep experiencing a wobbling when driving between 4-10 mph (traffic). They have balanced and aligned my car 4 times since I bought the car, once a month (it needs service every month I commute 1,000 mile a week). It seems to work for a short while and then the problem continues. They have checked everything, rotors, wheels, tires, etc.
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I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
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We have a 1999 Plymouth voyager that is wobbling bad, we have new tires all around and it's been aligned. Still can not get it to stop wobbling, what do we do now? We also replaced one wheel cylinder on one side too.
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I have a 99 F150 4x4 it recently started shaking badly on the front end at about 40mph but levels out at about 45 to 50 mph or if slowed back down to 35mph. I can't find anything worn or loose except the sway bar bushings are completely gone on both driver and passenger sides. I have read about the "death wobble" but can't find anything else worn out! I can do most all repairs and checks myself.
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I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
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Just started to leak, evidence on the ground. No noise when turning or driving. The shop said I needed entire rack and pinion but only put the car on lift no other testing. Is this urgent meaning need to get fixed tomorrow? Do I need an entire rack and pinion? Can parts get fixed in the power steering and not the entire thing? They quoted me $1575.00 but I found the rack/pinion part online for $350.00.
I don't drive the car much why did this start?
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2006 Tucson shuts off sometimes when I pull into my driveway. It starts right back up and it doesn't happen all the time. I have replaced the cam and crank shaft sensors with no luck.
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Just had a new timing belt put in with water pump. Drove it home and the temp gauge flew up to red zone. Took it back they said air pocket in system. Bled the system. Drove home and same thing happened. Nothing changed. Temp gauge elevates past normal and into red zone when I idle or drive slow without air conditioning on. The weird thing if the air conditioning is on the gauge stays at normal longer. What is the issue? Is it a bad water pump or thermostat? Or something else.
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Car has a weird shaking or vibrating coming from the middle or the rear of the car, I can't really describe it. You can only notice it at low speeds, and it's only noticeable after you drive for a while, it doesn't happen immediately. It happens whether you press on the brake or not, just while driving. I'm not sure how I should handle the situation either. I changed my rotors and brake pads because I thought that might have been the problem, but it turned out it wasn't.
I took it to the dealer, they said it was the end links that were loose so they changed that. It didn't fix the problem. I took the car back, and they checked it out, they couldn't locate the problem. They put it on the lift, said it wasn't the sway bar, suspension, etc.
They said because I didn't change the "brake pad clips"(I'm not sure what to call them), and they appear to be the original ones that came with the car, I'm not really sure if they are or not, but I know the brake pads were changed once, but maybe that wasn't changed, I need to change them first, and since they looked for a problem and don't want to waste more of their time (basically what they told me, they will start charging me to find the problem now), they will charge me $159 labor + $20 for the part + tax to change it. Now it may or may not fix the problem, that may not be the problem at all, and if it doesn't fix it then I'm out almost $200 for no reason. They said they don't want to waste time, and it's ridiculous to look for a problem with my car. But the problem is it's a vibration or a shaking, and I would think that SHOULD be covered by the warranty.
Should I try taking this to a different dealer, and pretty much never go back there again? Get the part changed myself at a different mechanic shop, as I don't see a reason to spend $179 + tax at Hyundai.
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So I finally installed my brand new coils in yesterday. I took it for a test drive and noticed a noise coming from the rear struts. It sounds as if the spring is wobbling around, almost like a clicking sound. When I first installed them I installed them without the rear perch, then when I heard the noise I thought it was because I didn't install the perch so I ended up taking my wheels off and installing the perch back in. No luck. It's still making a clicking sound when I'm driving, constantly. I had my friend push down on the rear of the car several times while I look under it, I don't know what it could be.... I also cut my rear bump stop in half. Could that be the issue? I have about 10 threads left on the rear perch before I max out.. The spring is compressed half way. Once again, These coils are brand new.
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I just put on KW v1 coils and 19 inch merc wheels about four weeks ago, and the car shakes over 55 mph. The tires are balanced( had them rebalanced to double check myslef) but I haven't had the car aligned yet. I had coils before or other cars but never had them aligned because of always moving the car up and down and never had the problem of a shaking car. Will getting it aligned fix everything.
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I think I need to have them done some where else. but around 65-70mph my wheels shakes. even after alignment!!!
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After getting rid of my front end shaking problems with some new tires the installer blamed the directional tires.
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Had the tires balanced, still shakes. Had them balanced and tires rotated on the wheels for optimum placement. Still shakes, no visible bubbles for tread seperation. What to check next?
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I have a 2006 scion xb with 106000 miles. It has 17" custom wheels on it. When I test drove it I noticed some vibration up front and assumed the tires were not balanced good. I rotated the tires and noticed a slight difference but it still shakes around 70-80mph. I cant feel any vibration from the back of the car. Sometimes at 65 mph it's fine, other times it will shake. Since the shake isn't at 65 all the time, could my problem be worn out struts?
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I just got new rotiform BLQ rims and nexen tires. I have the hub rings and the setup was balanced and aligned (double checked).
Before this I had 3 bent TSW rims and got a pretty bad shake in the wheel around 65-70 mph. Before or after that speed everything is smooth now.
Why would this shake still occur.
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I had a balancing problem with some tires I bought with the car. At about 80 they shook and hard enough to not want to drive at that speed. I replaced them with Falken tires and it was so much better, but......
At 75-82 mph I still have a shake in the steering wheel. I bought the tires from Discount and they claim the rim is bent and they cannot completely balance the tire. I am going back once more to get a definitive response.
I am at a loss at what to do next. My other Lexus was smooth at any speed, even at 90. Smooth. 2007 Lexus es350
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My steering wheel on my 2012 Avalon Limited began shaking above 65 mph immediately after the tires were rotated for the first time. The balance was checked, and two new tires were installed. That did not fix the problem. The car also seems to pull to the right. Wondering if the problem are the tires, or an alignment issue.
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I have a 2002 Subaru Forester with 201,000 miles, it runs great. However, I just put new tires on and I have terrible shaking in both the steering wheel and the seat that was not there prior to the tire change. I went and had them balanced and the mechanic suggested it was maybe a mechanical problem because there is still some shaking. This shaking is also very pronounced when I hit the the brakes but I am pretty sure the brakes are fine because I changed the the entire front brakes, calipers included and the rears last spring. Again, this car is pretty high in mileage and I am pretty sure much of the front end is stock from the factory.
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1) After 10000km the car started to develop some front suspension knocking sound going over potholes. After three trips to a dealer they finally said that it was a loose stabilizer bar which apparently is "very common". They tightened it and the problem seemed to go away. Now after 40000km the problem seems to have came back. I am starting to think that maybe it is somehow related to cold temperature because it seems to get a little better once the car has been warmed up and it has been going for some time.
I don't really care about the noise, but I want Hyundai to fix it if there really is a problem.
2) When driving 40-60km/h with the sunroof open I get a resonant wobbling sound. If I open one of the windows just a bit it disappears. Sounds like a poor sunroof wind deflector design to me. (I have driven Mazdaz and Hondas with sunroofs and none of them had that problem)
3) Whats up with those super heavy 16' aluminum wheels!!!! Is it just me or it feels like they weigh more then the steel ones? The car even feels faster when I put on my winter tires on steel rims.
Other then that the car has been pretty good. I am not getting anywhere near the factory specified fuel efficiency 6.5-7.5l/100km hwy and 8-9l/100km city, but I do drive it fairly hard, so that is OK. It still amazes me though that my 15yr old civic was getting the same mileage with a comparable performance. You would think that there would be some progress in automotive technology....
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