Volvo :: 2006 - Quick Jerk When Punch The Gas To Accelerate Quickly
Feb 22, 2013
My 2006 Volvo S60 turbo has about 116K miles and noticed a couple times when I punch the gas to accelerate quickly (like to pass someone on the interstate) that it will make this quick jerky thing (as though I ran over some rumble strips). I normally drive like a grandma so this has only happened a couple times. Today I was on the interstate and decided to test this out and sure enough it would quickly bump-bump-bump before the gas/acceleration kicked in. It never stalled, but now I am paranoid.
Also, it occasionally "feels" like it takes the car longer than normal to start. There is no pattern to this. It will happen first thing in the morning, but I have noticed it more often when I stop to drop my son off and get back in the car. I will crank the key and the RPM dial will shoot up twice really quickly and then be normal.
Maybe you should also know that when I first got the car, I filled it up with gas and started driving and it died. We checked the fuses and the fuel pump fuse had burned out so we changed it and all was right again.
I bought this as a high mileage car (60K) in 2007 and have not done much to it since (air filter, oil, tires, brakes). Yes, that means I have not gotten my transmission fluid changed or any recommended dealer maintenance.
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Since they replaced my transmission at 40,000 miles, I've noticed that occasionally, but not always, there is an unusual quick half second jerk or jump feeling when I first crank the car on a cold start. It doesn't happen all the time, just some times, but it has to be a cold start when I do feel it. What this could be? I'm thinking maybe some bolts weren't put tight enough when they installed the new transmission?
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My Hyundai Sonata has been the dealer twice so far and the problem hasn't been fixed yet. Once in a while when I accelerate quickly the check engine light comes on and the esc light comes on and the car goes into a limp power mode or fail safe mode and the engine won't rev above 2000 rpm until I turn the car off and back on again.
Both times I have had the car to the dealer the Scan Code "P2138 Throttle Position Sense P2106 Elect Control forced limit power" Were found. They cleared the code drove car and it did not return.
This has now happened about 5 times, in the last year and each time after switching off the car it runs fine, and after about 5 starts the check engine light goes off.
Well this just happened again yesterday (just as I was about to blow off some kid in a Ford Taurus from a stop light) So I called my dealer (who has been very good thus far with my car) and told them about the problem happening again and that this time I want this sensor replaced, and not having the code cleared.
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I have a 2006 Mazda 6 that ive owned for a year now. It has this random problem tho.... when accelerating into 4th gear it makes a horrendous racket like the bottom is falling out of the car or something and sorta jerks. it has been doing this a long time. other than that it drives fine! i have no mechanical knowledge about cars so im totally clueless! this seems to happen when accelerating on an incline.
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I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
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PiP or traditional Prius users could tell me the quickest way to accelerate when in EV mode of HV ONLY mode? So I find acceleration is good in TRUE EV mode where I can keep up with regular traffic from a dead stop, however after I have used that batteries resources up I try to use EV of the HV only mode as much as possible.
I find that in EV of HV only mode to be so slow from a dead stop. I try to press the pedal so that the I go to the halfway bar or max of EV mode. However it barely gets the car moving. I figure this is how the traditional Prius works. I think if I was to try to use this EV power to get to 25 mph it would take 15 seconds!
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My 1996 Toyota Corolla has started sputtering (choking?) out when I accelerate quickly (like getting on the highway) or when I get up to about 70 mph. Is this a symptom of a clogged fuel filter or a bad fuel pump? If so, is there a way to tell which it is before taking it to the mechanic? Or could it be something else?
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I have found that when I accelerate quickly, while entering the expressway or getting around a semi for example, a burning smell enters the car. I imagine it's oil but uncertain. The smell occurs shortly after the quick acceleration and it doesn't occur consistently.
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When I first leased my 2010 Prius back in June of 2010, I was able to use the EV mode up to 25 miles an hour. Once it hit 26 or if I were to accelerate to quickly, it would disengage.
Now, actually some months back, I've tried using EV mode but it always disengages after 10mph no matter what I do. I've talked to the service dept at my local Toyota dealership but they have no answers for it.
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I have a 2000 V70 with 103K miles. I bought this car used (that's another story!) only about 6 months ago. I started to notice a little slip when I would hit the gas after being stopped at a stop light or something. Now the "jerking" happens even when I am sitting still. It really only occurs when I am just accelerating. I took it to one mechanic who told me it needed a new transmission and to another who ran the diagnostic and could not find anything wrong with it. Not sure what to think. I guess you could say I don't want to believe mechanic #1!
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I have 3 sound bytes/videos. Probably best to listen with headphones or decent speakers to get the full effect. The issue has gotten worse. Seems to be worse especially in the a.m. when cold.
When I accelerate fairly quickly, not wide open, there is a weird noise of whooshing air, his or escaping air etc. It could be described as some type of whirring noise too.
I can let off the throttle and push slowly into it and it goes again. Only happens under a decent amount of engine load. Doesn't seem to matter what gear as long as it is under the same type of engine load.
It is coming from the passenger side engine bay as far as I can tell since I'm driving.
Here are the links: YouTube ....
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My 2004 Touareg V10 TDI drives like something's not just quite right, although hard for me to put my finger on. Essentially it feels sluggish, like it doesn't downshift to accelerate as quickly as it should, and like the automatic shifting is slightly jerky. This stuff is all even more noticeable at slower speeds and going up hill, but I think it's true even on city streets.
It's happened a few times, going up a fairly steep hill, that it seems to lose power and I can't get it over 20 or 25 mph even flooring it. Then when I turn the vehicle off and then back on, it can go more or less like normal again. Still, "normal" feels to me like something less than it used to be. I've recently changed the oil and all the filters (air, oil, fuel).
The dealer's service department says they can't find anything and the computer is not giving any error codes, but I know that it's not driving right.
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Transmission Issue I am having with my Mk6 GTI DSG. When the car comes to a complete stop and you need to accelerate quickly to get on to incoming traffic, for example, the car takes a couple of seconds to engage. This behavior is becoming very annoying! I've been looking around about this issue. Some say that they have had a problem with the DSG Valve Body (Mechatronics Unit) and others say it might be the DSG Break Sensor. I am no expert but I would presume the Sensor Would be cheaper than the Valve Body. I would like to try and replace the sensor first and then see if I need to replace the Valve Body.
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My f-150 has an intermittent rough idle and consistently runs rough when you accelerate quickly. Vehicle is not throwing any codes?
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Today I was driving my R in third gear shooting up a hill and as I was accelerating the car jerked and cel light flashed and then disappeared. I lost power for a quick second and then was restored, I just recently did the 80k service... O2 sensor maybe? There is no lights on the dash....what could it be? My tires handled great
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My standard 2002 accent is undriveable and at the mechanic right now (100,000km). For the past few weeks the car has driven very jerky. While in first and second gears if i accelerate too quickly it just jerks/slips and has very little power.
Yesterday the check engine light came on and i got codes P0300, P0302, P0303...misfire in cylinders 2 and 3. Checked this forum and decided to buy new spark plugs (last replaced plugs and wires 1.5 years ago). Got into the car and could go more than a block because it was jerking and then kept stalling. Replaced the sparkplugs and nothing changed. Had it towed to the mechanic...after a few hours he said he had cleaned the exhaust manifold and it was driving fine. I picked it up and a block away it stalled again.
The mechanic now says 3 of my fuel injectors need to be replaced and the fourth will probably go soon and it will be about $700 to fix. Does this sound right for these codes?
I called hyundai parts and they told me each injector is $236...he also told me he doubted they had to be replaced cause he has never seen an accent have fuel injectors replaced and also they rarely sell these injectors, he said it was probably something electrical.
I have found 4 injectors on ebay for $200 but is this really the problem? The mechanic says it is 100% the problem. But from reading the forum I dont think so.
Also wanted to add that i often noticed the smell of burning plastic. Smoke seems to be coming from spark plug area when i notice the smell but nothing looks burnt/melted.
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I drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
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I drive a 2006 F-150. I'm new to the forum and already found some good info on the annoying tick coming from my 5.4.
I have recently purchased a ski boat and lately when towing my boat and coming to a stop I feel as light movement coming from the rear of the truck that feels like something slides forward slightly. When I accelerate "it" slides back and if I accelerate quickly, "it" makes a loud clank noise.
I have ruled out hitch, receiver, ball, anything from the boat/trailer etc... It is coming from the transfer case/ spare tire area under the truck and it only appears to do it (or to where it is noticeable) while towing the boat.
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala driving it in the city of Chicago. It's recently had the oil changed, and the transmission fluid flushed and filter replaced. This car was mine before I went off to school, and I meticulously maintained it for three years, and then my step sister inherited it. She drove it for two years, and then it sat in the driveway for a year and a half. It's got about 175,000 miles on it.
Problem: Every time I start to accelerate past 25mph and get around 2000rpms, the car starts to give out, sputter and jerk. It starts to drop off right when it should be shifting to second gear. When on the highway, even if I floor the gas peddle, it won't accelerate normally, but instead just crawls slowly to higher speeds.
It will eventually reach the higher speeds, but it takes about 5-10 minutes for it climb up from 25mph. I don't know enough about this level of car trouble to make a diagnosis myself, and would like an estimate of the cost for repairs. Also the car is getting around 19mpg on the highway, which I need to improve if I'm going to survive the $4.50/gal of Chicago gas. I'm hoping that fixing this problem will take care of that as well.
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So about 3-4 times per day, my truck will accelerate very quickly with the slightest touch of the gas pedal, then followed by the service engine soon light...I checked for any codes to see what I may need to fix, but no codes are found.
What this could be? I am also having issues to where I a few times per day I have to put my truck in neutral to get it to start instead of in park...could the two be related?
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My year-old Camry hybrid stalled out last night. It was the second time this has happened. The first time, about a month ago, I made a quick start from a light, followed by a quick stop, both actions to avoid an accident. (I was about to get rear-ended and scooted into the intersection to give the guy closing in my mirror more room.) After the stop, the car had no power but it started up, no problem. Last night, I was about a minute into my trip, stopped at a light, and the power just died. Again, it started no problem.
This time I noticed that the radio went out. Not sure about the headlights. The emergency blinkers came on at the touch of the button before I restarted. In both cases, I stepped on the accelerator and got no power. Took it to the dealer and they couldn't replicate the problem, of course, and whatever interrogation they did of the systems found no faults. They had to be convinced that I knew the difference between an actual stall and just going from gas to electric. It's kind of disconcerting to just stall out in the middle of the street. And I'm concerned that this is a problem that could get worse -- probably just after the warranty lapses.
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