Volvo :: 740 GL Engine Loses Power At WOT
Jul 26, 2006
My 740 GL has recently developed a strange problem. Regardless of speed, whenever I push the accelerator to near wide open throttle or WOT, the engine loses power. It idles down to about 1000 rpm and will not respond until I pull over, turn off, and restart. It doesn't exhibit this behavior when in park. The car runs great otherwise (85+ mph) as long as I don't get close to WOT. I replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, and fuel filter.
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My '78 245 drives just fine around the (flat) city but when I try to take it to the mountains it seems to struggle. It makes it fine up the hills for the first 30 minutes or so but eventually it starts to chug and will lose power and die. If I give it 10 minutes to rest it will start up just fine and drive fine for a while but if I continue to go uphill it will die again. It doesn't overheat too much, it just seems like it's not getting enough of something? And it doesn't seem like it's a fuel pump because i've replaced those before and it seems different this time. After returning home from the mountains, it's like nothing happened and it drives fine?
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My '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
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Recently replaced alternator on Volvo 240 dl (covered under warranty). Battery checked numerous times and comes back as working perfectly fine. For some reason the battery is not taking a charge from the alternator or something is draining the battery too fast for the alternator to charge the battery. Regardless, after driving the car to and from the car either will not start (but jump starts instantly).
Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
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I have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.
I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA
I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?
I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this.
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My 3.5 intrigue seems to stumble while driving it. It feels as it the engine is stumbling or loses power for less than a second and it will do this a few times in a row and will be fine for awhile and then repeat itself.
This can happen while cruising, slow acceleration or at a stop light. I don't really notice it under harder acceleration. When it does happen i do notice that the rpm's drop a very slight bit.
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Turns out the crank shaft position sensor only fixed the cars ability to start and stop and did not cure the acceleration issue. What happens? The symptoms occur during the following conditions.
1. Hard acceleration
2. Going up hills
3. With heavy loads
Basically the car loses power and sounds like it is getting muffled. Then it just picks up rapidly and takes off.I have tested out the throttle position sensor and it checks out fine. The car never completely stops.If I feather the throttle, it picks up and keeps moving forward.
Haven't tried the EGR valve, fuel filter or fuel pump.
Strange thing though.The car was sitting for about two months until I replaced the crank shaft position sensor. Then it started up fine, and ran without problems.The tank went low, and I filled it with gas.AFter that, the car started having problems. The only thing I can think of is two things.
1. When I filled it up is raised sediment and somehow clogged something.
2. The excessive pressure in the tank is causing issues.
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I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 142K miles. A few weeks ago while driving the car, it seemed to lurch/slip out of gear and then I lost the AC, odometer, speedometer, power windows, turn indicators, etc. My mechanic said connections to the CEM were fried and he replaced them. Yesterday, the same problem occurred.
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1998 discovery. Replaced fuel pump, crank shaft sensor, battery is good, had tune -up. Driving on highway and car just loses engine power, still have radio, lights, etc. Pull over and start it right back up. Drive about 15 minutes more and it happens again. Starts again. Then it does it again, but now won't start. Clicking sound in dash on passenger side. I leave it sit for 2 days. Starts right up, then rpms start revving then stops and dies. I have had every diagnostic known run, no codes coming up. I have had local mechanic keep it for days to drive it. He is also at a loss. I am REALLY tired of replacing random parts to no avail. Not to mention the $$ I have spent.
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Engine disengages and won't respond to accelerator after starting from a stop. Truck begins to move forward 20 to 100 ft then the engine loses all power and won't respond to the accelerator.
Tach drops all the way down and the truck stops. Sometimes anywhere from 10 to 30 seconds it will reengage, rpms up and start accelerating. Other times I have to shift into park then the engine reengages.
Usually occurs at slow speed in a parking lot, stop light etc but it has also happened accelerating on an on ramp to I12.
1) Dealer checked it and replaced a couple plugs and wire because the code showed one cylinder with occasional misfire. I told them This wasn't misfire.
2) problem continues. Dealer finds no codes and drives it 35 miles in a week wo occurring. It happens again next day to me.
3) Dealer puts diagnostic capture with red button to push when it occurs. Will hold data for four events. One occurs as I pull out onto the highway in front of dealership. Roll backwards down hill into dealership lot so auto transmission must be disengaged. Put in park and engine renegades. Happens again after 20 ft. Dealer finds no codes and all data appears normal.
4) dealer tech drives it do another week. 75 miles. Nothing. Take it home Friday and it happens Saturday pulling from a stop sign in the middle of the intersection. Pump with no response for ten seconds then both engine and transmission eventually reengage.
Happens hot or cold. I typically drive with a light touch because a fast candy apple red super crew with a loud exhaust tends to draw attention from those with badges! Leaving work in the evening is like playing frogger and I don't want to be road kill!
2011 f150 SCrew Platinum 5.0 v8 auto
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Driving down the road today and all of a sudden the car loses power, starts vibrating and the Check VSC and Check Engine lights came on. I pulled off the highway and got the car stopped and engine shut off. I let it sit for about 5 minutes and started it up and all warning lights went off and I was able to drive the car home with no adverse effects. Seems to be running normal now. Searched the archives and saw numerous posts about a loose gas cap, but this was something far more serious.
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Recently I've been noticing a gas smell after parking my car after the drive home from work, but engine performance and mileage efficiency didn't seem affected, and I found no visible evidence of leaking on the ground (nor in the engine, but I likely don't know the right places to look).
Today, with the engine running, I looked around the engine to see if I could locate any gas leakage -- I located the fuel pressure regulator (I think; a golf-ball sized acorn on the right of the engine with a hose coming in the top and a pipe coming out the bottom and going down and to the left) and didn't see any leaking during my brief test. I'll check it again after my drive home tonight.
One new thing I did discover, though; while in park, when I slowly pressed on the accelerator, there would be a point where the engine started losing power and going into a rev/slowdown cycle: about a second or two of revving, then a half second of slowing down. This was while cold and in park; I've not experienced this in normal driving.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 213,000 miles. Manual tranny, 2wd. It is my daily driver.
No issues until 2 weeks ago I pulled out and began shift gears when the engine died and I completely lose pedal. The engine does not shut off it goes to idle and the lights and power are fine but I quickly lose acceleration. After a couple seconds and a few pumps on the pedal it comes back. The problem is intermittant. Until yesterday it was only in the morning but then happened on the way home from work. Thinking ti was water in the fuel I used an additive to cure the water.
I changed the fuel filter just after I bought it in April of this year. I know there is a Injector Pressure Sensor that could be the culprit. EGR?
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I have a 1988 Volvo 240 DL station wagon that has been in my family since just before I was born. It has somewhere around 300K miles on it (the odometer broke 7 years ago at 250K). It drives around town more or less fine, usually. But sometimes it loses power on me. Usually this happens when I take it on highways, up big hills, in situations where I need to accelerate quickly, etc. It just starts to slow down, and I have to downshift and ease slowly through whatever stretch of road I'm on until I can get back up to speed (usually on a downhill). It's not totally consistent--sometimes it has this problem, other times it doesn't.
The car will go through stretches where it runs fine, then I'll have this problem on a highway, and then it's a little more likely to happen for a period after that (even on surface streets). This has been happening in some form for a few years. When I first had the problem, it happened continually until I heard a terrible rattling in the engine. When I took it in, they found that a spring in the piston/cylinder had broken off and shot up, breaking the cap off one of the cylinders (sorry for the lack of a more technical explanation).
When they fixed that, the problem seemed to go away for a while, but eventually came back (though there has been no rattling since). The most recent time, it had been running around town just fine. Then I took it out on the highway and really lost power--had to slow it down to 35-40mph going up a hill on a 55mph highway. For the rest of the drive it struggled up hills, even as low as 2nd gear. But on my drive home (about 1.5 hours later), the car ran smoothly (though I continued to baby it, and there were fewer upward hills). Since then, even around town it sometimes feels like it might lose power again, but it never becomes a huge issue because I haven't demanded a whole lot of the car.
After that long-winded explanation, I'm wondering: could this be something as simple as spark plugs? Or is this definitely a bigger issue with the engine? If it's a cheap fix, I'm happy to go for it, but if it will require putting several hundred (or more) into the engine, I'm inclined just to let it limp along until it's finally time to take the car out back and shoot it. Figuratively, of course.
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So the 04 is rolling down the road when the cluster gauges ping, the truck loses power/acceleration but the radio never goes out. Have a new alternator and batteries passed a check. It has done it three times. We are 1100 miles from home. OBD and cigarette lighter fuse was blown as well.
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I have a 1999 Ford F450 Tow truck with a 7.3 turbo. It loses power and misses when I give it gas but when driving normal speed no problems.
I had a ford technician look at problem with a computer and he said number 8 injector . Today number 8 was changed.
Test drove it same problem. I also changed th fuel filter. And I emptied the tank to make sure No water
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1994 f250 7.3 turbo problem.. runs great on the level.. Cruises 65 no problem.. We have an 8% grade coming from town and half way up it starts cutting out and sounds like a jack brake under the hood and loses power.. Once over the top it clears out and runs fine again.... I just changed the fuel filters but no luck... I have been wrenching on cars all my life but no diesels..
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In the past month for 3 times I've experienced problems with engine start (starter turned properly and I could hear fuel pump working). Yesterday however, I noticed that during full acceleration - at higher revs, engine suddenly loses a bit of power and at the same time you can feel kind of rattling or vibration in the engine. After letting off the gas pedal everything goes back to normal ... Besides, everything seems to be normal. Lambda control light does not light up indicating any errors. However I get a faulty knock sensor code 1-4-3. To my intuition the problem is with the ignition (but approx. 2 years ago I replaced distributor cap + rotor and the plugs + ignition wires were replaced about 3 years ago) or the amount of fuel in the mixture, but that could be caused by many things.
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The last couple of days with the temps in the 50's, my 2000 F550 with a 7.3, will start normally and idle fine. When I try to drive it, I get less than a quarter mile and it just looses power and will die.
If I flutter the pedal, sometimes it will keep running, very poorly. And when it does this, it is putting out blue smoke. After it does this, it will run fine. Just like nothing is wrong.
What do I look for, or is this normal. I have had the truck since last October and this is the first time it has acted like this.
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I am a mechanic and tow operator running a late 99 f350 7.3 6 speed cab and chassis wrecker. This truck has had a hard life and has been neglected for quite some time, and now has become my baby/headache. Truck starts great, idles nice, and will run great for about 5 minutes until it starts billowing white smoke that smells like fuel and loses all power. If you continue to drive it it will die. Sounds like it's dropping cylinders and will barely idle. If you stop for 5 minutes or so and let it idle it will smooth back out and will run great again for another minute or two, then right back to stumbling.
Using torque app, hpop pressure looks good when it's running well. Peaks at 3k, IPR maintaining 30-40% max. As soon as it stumbles you can see the hpop drop to 5-600 and the IPR will climb to 65%. Let it idea bit and they go back to normal, and stay good until it stumbles again.
Ive changed the fuel pump, ICP,rebuilt FPR, change fuel filter, pulled and cleaned the fuel tank (metal tank, no delamination, looks perfect inside). Pickup screen looked good. Cleaned the IPR, cleaned the hpop reservoir, there was no screen inside. Checked voltage at fuel pump, 11.78 across the pump with it running. Pulled valve covers, no noticeable leaks around injectors. Injectors have less than 5k miles. Remans with 100% larger tips.
To me it seems like the lpop is not keeping up with the hpop under load, starving it until you idle and let it catch up. Could it still be bad injector orings? Bad lpop? Something I'm not thinking of?
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I've got a 2005 F350 that i recently did balljoints, tierods and shocks/stabilizer on. Just stating that because i don't believe anything could be binding up to cause this.
If i am to take a left turn, more than 45 degrees, the truck will seem to lose power assist on the return to center and be very stiff when i return it by force until i jerk the wheel past center and let it come back the other direction and it seems to regain power assist.
Also, the steering is just generally bump. I have not driven a better condition 2005 to tell the difference but i'm sure this isn't the way it's supposed to be
I am not having any issue with braking force, as of yet. The first winter i got the truck i blew a power steering line that goes from the gear to the cooler, in which direction i don't know. It's been a year and a half since then so not sure that caused any failure.
Before this symptom the pump would whine when on left turns only, no problem turning right if i feel like doing right turns the rest of my days. I guess what i'm getting at is, does this sound like a bad pump? Bad gear? Both?
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