Volvo - 850 :: 1997 - Battery Loses Charge?
Feb 11, 2013
I have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.
I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA
I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?
I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this.
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I see this was discussed back in 06 but not resolved. Maybe more owners have had additional experiences with this.
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The symptoms are: HV Battery loses almost all charge over night. Sometimes it won't start. HV battery loses charge fast while cruising in the city (I used to see it getting green at the highways with cruise control and now it doesn't happen). Red warning light goes on randomly.
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I've had the alternator and starter tested twice,new battery. Its a 97infiniti qx4 and it won't hold a charge. The weird thing is, I have to wait day or two after I charge the new battery (which I replaced twice thinking it was the battery),then it will run for almost a day and then it just dies. And if someone tries to give me a jump, it will not charge and fire over. I have to get it towed back home and wait a day or two. (the wrecking companies are getting to know me very well). I've checked under the vehicle for any wires that are not suppose to be touching each other. Its my only car that I have at this time
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I can charge it off someone else battery and it will start and drive, but by the next morning it's dead again. Truck charges fine while truck runs so I don't think it's the alternator. 1999 4.2L V6 ....
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I have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
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My 740 GL has recently developed a strange problem. Regardless of speed, whenever I push the accelerator to near wide open throttle or WOT, the engine loses power. It idles down to about 1000 rpm and will not respond until I pull over, turn off, and restart. It doesn't exhibit this behavior when in park. The car runs great otherwise (85+ mph) as long as I don't get close to WOT. I replaced plugs, wires, rotor, cap, coil, and fuel filter.
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My '94 Volvo Sedan just loses power, no dash lights come on, it just silently dies. It starts right back up. I took it to a mechanic who checked out the fuel pumps (he said there were 2) and they tested fine. He replaced the fuel filter. It is still dying. It seems to happen when it is hotter, mornings are fine. It hasn't happened in the last few days because the temp has been about 82 tops. I read earlier today on this site that it could be the ignition module. I have replaced the air filter, and am running fuel injector cleaner also.
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Upon the car breaking down yet again today and attempting to drive it home the car lost all power and shut down while driving down the road. The first noticeable thing was the gas gauge dropping slowly from 3/4 to empty and then all power loss. Upon hooking jumper cables up and 'charging' by another vehicle the Volvo would again drive for a short period of time before the same thing happened.
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I have a 2004 Volvo XC70 with 142K miles. A few weeks ago while driving the car, it seemed to lurch/slip out of gear and then I lost the AC, odometer, speedometer, power windows, turn indicators, etc. My mechanic said connections to the CEM were fried and he replaced them. Yesterday, the same problem occurred.
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I've been told that my 12V battery was low.
I stumbled on this ATV/ motorcycle battery companion in the garage, can I use it to charge my prius?
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I've had the car for about 24 hours. I love it so far. My one question seems to be that the battery doesn't seem to charge all the way up. There seems to be room for 2 more bars to be completely full. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? How this works, but if it is supposed to be full to the top, I probably should go back to the dealer?
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I'm wondering if there's a way to force the ICE to charge the HV battery, either while standing or driving. Currently, EV Mode kicks in while coasting down a hill, and I would rather use those moments to effectively charge the battery rather than trickle charge with what little gain that gravity gives me.
I know there was a way on other models to charge the battery while standing by depressing the accelerator in park (or in drive with the brake depressed), but neither method works with the 2015 Prius C. The battery continues to drain while the ICE runs in park, and it refuses to run in D or B while the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time.
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New battery, new terminals but my car won't turn over if I need to make a quick stop somewhere. I must wait at least an hour for the proper amount of voltage to build up and then the car starts just fine. What is going on?
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My battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
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