Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: Red Battery Line On - No Charge System
Mar 9, 2013
Had a little fender bender. Right after that i noticed the battery red light was on. When I got it home I took the solenoid off the firewall (all the battery wires meet here). When you put 12 volts to the small terminal, the solenoid pulls in and the two big terminals are connected together. That works. When installed on the truck and startup, I have no 12v voltage at the small terminal. Don't have a diagram, but service manual says something about fuse #14 under the dash feeding the "battery cutout".. Checked that fuse and its o.k. .... where does the 12 v signal to the solenoid come from ? I assume somehow it triggers after the alternator starts charging ?
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I can charge it off someone else battery and it will start and drive, but by the next morning it's dead again. Truck charges fine while truck runs so I don't think it's the alternator. 1999 4.2L V6 ....
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I have a quick question, I just replaced the head gaskets on my 4.6 with 301,000 miles on it and now my battery only charges when you punch it and when you lift off the gas pedal, in town it does fine, but on drives 25 miles on the highway the battery guage goes to the line on the bottom. What could be causing that?
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Got F-150 4.6 cooling system leak on the heater line (farthest back line) coming out of the block. Fitting looks to be steel. How does it attach/ do I need to remove the Intake to replace?
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I've had the alternator and starter tested twice,new battery. Its a 97infiniti qx4 and it won't hold a charge. The weird thing is, I have to wait day or two after I charge the new battery (which I replaced twice thinking it was the battery),then it will run for almost a day and then it just dies. And if someone tries to give me a jump, it will not charge and fire over. I have to get it towed back home and wait a day or two. (the wrecking companies are getting to know me very well). I've checked under the vehicle for any wires that are not suppose to be touching each other. Its my only car that I have at this time
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I have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.
I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA
I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?
I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this.
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I have an 03 F150 that I put a 4bt 3.9 cummins diesel in a couple years back. I'm just now working on ac issues. I have custom lines built and have a new drier in it. I am uncertain of the location of the expansion valve. I have not found a diagram of where that would be. It is a supercrew so it has the large condenser and I don't remember seeing the expansion valve/filter in that line when it was apart.
So I pulled full vacuum on the system and let it set for over an hour and it held the full vacuum. I plugged the Freon to it and it pulled just a small amount into the system. with the vehicle off it registered about 90lbs on both high and low with just the one can attached. I closed high side and jumped the ac pressure switch and it dropped to about 30 lbs on low side, but would move back up to 90lbs when I turned compressor off. It would not pull anymore out of the can. Do I have a plugged filter somewhere?
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I have a 99 Ford F-150 Lariat 5.4L 4x4. I was driving my son to work and the truck died. My son-in-law gave me a jump and as soon as he removed the jumper cables my truck died. We took the alternator to Auto Zone and had it tested, twice they tested it and it passed. We took the battery to them for a battery test and it was dead. Got a new battery and put it in the truck and the truck starts. The voltage on the battery was 12.4 off and when we turned the truck on the voltage went to 12 so we replaced the voltage regulator on the alternator and now I get 13 volts on battery while it is off and on the voltage goes a little above 15 and the charge light will not go off. What to look for to try and fix this problem. What can cause the light to stay on? I can push down on the belt a little but my son-in-law says the belt is ok, it does have a few cracks in it.
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2000 F150 5.4... I was cleaning the battery posts tonight. I was leaning against the bumper when I touched the positive cable and got voltage into my knee. I have had weird electrical problems occasionally.
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So Iv a couple weeks ago I bought a 1998 f150 and today I was gonna do the fuel filter and saw the line goin to the engine was broken and they put a rubber hose in line. The hose is only about 6inchs and I work at ford so I got the price on the whole fuel line running up to the engine. I was just wondering if any repairs that work for metal fuel lines.
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Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
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I tried searching, but couldn't find anything. I have a '97 F-150 with the 5.4L and I have a plastic line coming off of my intake that I don't know where it is supposed to go. I don't know how or when it got disconnected, but I can't seem to find anything within reach of it that it can connect to.
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t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
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I have a 97 f150 4.6 4x4 i cant get my engine to line back up with the motor mounts. Is there a trick to doing this? I've tried to lift the motor several different ways, but still nothing. Its like the motor isn't going back far enough. But it cannot go back any more without hitting the trans?
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Transmission oil cooler line, lower one, is leaking. I think to use pvf, black ones, brake line instead of new transmission oil cooler line. I did replaced upper one with new transmission oil cooler line before a few years and it is rusty already as those line are only zinc plated as opposed to plastified brake lines.
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When I lost the rear brakes due to a rusted line, naturally the ABS light came on. Will it automatically reset when everything is repaired and working or is there something else that needs to be done?
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I am replacing the high pressure power steering line on my 2000 Lightning and have a question about the fitting that goes into the steering gear. The new hose came with a black rubber o-ring that the instructions seem to indicate goes on the end of the steering gear fitting. The problem is that I did not see any o-ring on the original hose end or in the steering gear itself and the hose did not leak there (it was leaking on the pump fitting). Should there be an o-ring at the end of the fitting or does the fitting go on without it and uses a metal to metal seal? If replace this hose, did you use the o-ring or leave it out? Does it go on like this? Or like this?
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How does it come off. I wasn't able to turn the axle vent without turning the block on axle for the brake lines.
I would like to remove the brake system from my current axle without breaking any lines open, then putting a new axle in and put the brake system on the truck to the new rear axle.
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I noticed a vacuum line hanging under my 98 F 150 4x4 I traced it out to my front axle question is where does the other end go I have looked but no luck to where it goes.
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The transmission line running under the radiator has started to leak. I took a piece of rubber trans. hose and buy passed the cooler. How much does the cooler support the trans. temperature. I don't tow with the truck. And for the most part drive it around 14 to 20 miles one way to work. Is this something I need to replace now or after the temperature hits the 80s.
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1999 F150 has rusted and leaking steel brake lines. I need to replace all of them but do not know if you have to fabricate them or can you buy the complete kit. I am also confused with the flared end. Have not worked with that type of flare. If they need to be purchased where is the best place to buy them ?
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