Ford F-150 - 1997-2003 :: 2000 - Drive Line Vibrating?
Nov 6, 2012
t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
View 2 Replies
Advertisement
Why my truck shake/ vibrates only at high speeds above 65mph. Once I drop below 65 is smooth as can be.
View 14 Replies
I have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
View 2 Replies
I am replacing the high pressure power steering line on my 2000 Lightning and have a question about the fitting that goes into the steering gear. The new hose came with a black rubber o-ring that the instructions seem to indicate goes on the end of the steering gear fitting. The problem is that I did not see any o-ring on the original hose end or in the steering gear itself and the hose did not leak there (it was leaking on the pump fitting). Should there be an o-ring at the end of the fitting or does the fitting go on without it and uses a metal to metal seal? If replace this hose, did you use the o-ring or leave it out? Does it go on like this? Or like this?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 ford f-150 4 wheel drive that will not disengage, I am down here in south fla where and don't put it in 4 wheel drive much, but yesterday I put in 4 wheel drive and I heard the click click and it engaged I put it in drive and drove it about 5-10 miles parked it and turned the switch to 2 wheel high and got out , got back in the truck turn her back on and the 4 by 4 lamp came one went off then came back on and stayed on and it still in 4 wheel drive and wont disengage.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 F-150 4x4 and the four wheel drive isn't working properly. It does work,but to get it to engage I had to drive in reverse for a couple feet then it locked it and everything was fine,pretty sure that isn't normal. What could be wrong with it? As soon as I turn the lights up on the dash,but the front tires don't spin.
View 1 Replies
My father's 2000 F150 5.4L has developed an issue. But the issue only surfaces in it's last gear. As it shifts into overdrive it begins to miss and hesitate and bog. If you disable overdrive you never feel it.
I'm thinking an exhaust restriction. There are no trouble codes, no check engine light. I notice that the note of his exhaust changes as the vehicle warms up, sounds like it's being smothered. And the flow out of the pipe lessens.
My only issue is whether the EGR is causing it or the converters. Haven't seen them go bright red yet, but this has been going on for a good while.
I wanted to get a few opinions before I tear into it today. I'll do a vacuum test on the EGR valve and rescan the codes but don't wanna drive it and heat up the exhaust when i gotta disassemble it.
View 4 Replies
A friend brought a '97 Z3 roadster by the other day for my opinion.Cute little car with a nearly new top and tires, and supposedly a recent clutch. Peppy 2.8L DOHC I-6. Just over 100K miles.
The only thing I could really fault the car on was a thumping noise coming from somewhere in the drive line. It is only noticeable on starting from a dead stop. It doesn't seem to matter whether you start out slow and easy, or like a jack rabbit, which it does well. You hear THUMP THUMP THUMP, and can almost feel it under you as you drive. The differential is VERY near both passenger's backsides. If you start out hard it may be more like THUMP THUMP.... THUMP thump THUMP before it quits making noise Of course the car has independent rear suspension. I'm thinking it may be a rear CV joint in need of lubrication. This car did sit for nearly a year recently as it was tied up in an estate. I don't know if that's part of it or not, but it might be.
View 15 Replies
I purchased a 2000 F250 7.3 4x4 (auto transmission) about 8 months ago. I've noticed recently that when I accelerate there is a slight hesitation like there is slack in the drive line. This does not happen when the truck is moving and I accelerate. There is not audible clunk and the hesitation is not in the motor.
I checked the u-joints and they all feel tight. There is a little slack in transfer case that allows me to turn the drive line slightly back and forth. Is this normal? Should I be planning on a transmission or transfer case rebuild soon?
Update: I was researching the leaf spring isolator pads (mine are warn out or missing) and it sounds like these can cause something similar to what I am experiencing. I am planning on pulling a 28' travel trailer from Colorado to Wisconsin next month and would like to avoid any issues if possible...... Obviously, I know ....
View 4 Replies
I have a 97 3.5. A few years ago something in the drive train started vibrating/resonating strongly when the engine RPM's reach about 1800-2000. I can feel it most in the gas pedal but it also resonates through the dashboard and sometimes makes the dash cover buzz. It didn't start out faint and get progressively worse, just started one day and has been there ever since and hasn't really gotten worse. Actually started after replacing my plugs, wires, intake gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. I originally thought engine, then I thought maybe it's in tranny, but it's worse when a/c is on although compressor is quiet and works great.
More info: has 198k, runs like a champ, no hesitation; tranny replaced @ 104K
View 1 Replies
I was pulling out of my driveway (it's quite steep) in 4x4, turned onto the road and heard a clunk.
I then took it out of 4x4 and continued on. I noticed it was vibrating more than usual. I turned out of a friends driveway (not in 4x4) after that and thought I heard another clunk. The vibrations seemed to get a lot worse after that.
View 1 Replies
My rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
View 14 Replies
2001 F-150 4.2L automatic, 189k mikes. Gas pedal would do weird knocking/vibrating. It would do it at idle & under acceleration. Gas pedal would knock & sometimes slightly move or kick back at you. Felt like someone was lightly hitting it with a small hammer. Well there is not much to the gas pedal assembly; pedal, throttle cable & mounting bolts/plate. Looking under hood, a bracket from drivers side of motor was pushing back against firewall, which was pushing into gas pedal mounting bolts. I grabbed the bracket & it came off motor. Nothing else attached to bracket. Looks like it rusted off and was pinned between motor & firewall. Well, this fixed the gas pedal problems. But now i wonder what the bracket is & whats it suppose to hold??
View 3 Replies
Wondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.
View 2 Replies
I have been having some major issues with my truck!
The whole truck is vibrating when on. When I accelerate I hear a loud noise like something is hitting a fan. I'm scared to even drive it. The rpm's have been jumping around.
What could be causing this? I already replaces Fuel filters.
View 1 Replies
So Iv a couple weeks ago I bought a 1998 f150 and today I was gonna do the fuel filter and saw the line goin to the engine was broken and they put a rubber hose in line. The hose is only about 6inchs and I work at ford so I got the price on the whole fuel line running up to the engine. I was just wondering if any repairs that work for metal fuel lines.
View 4 Replies
Well the time has come where I don't like the way my brake lines look running to the back of the truck. Question is, What size are the fittings on the ends of the lines? I know I will have to special order the line that goes from the frame rail down to the rear axle tube, but is the line that goes from there to mid way frame rail a standard size? I don't want to have to order that if I don't have too.
View 1 Replies
Had a little fender bender. Right after that i noticed the battery red light was on. When I got it home I took the solenoid off the firewall (all the battery wires meet here). When you put 12 volts to the small terminal, the solenoid pulls in and the two big terminals are connected together. That works. When installed on the truck and startup, I have no 12v voltage at the small terminal. Don't have a diagram, but service manual says something about fuse #14 under the dash feeding the "battery cutout".. Checked that fuse and its o.k. .... where does the 12 v signal to the solenoid come from ? I assume somehow it triggers after the alternator starts charging ?
View 12 Replies
I tried searching, but couldn't find anything. I have a '97 F-150 with the 5.4L and I have a plastic line coming off of my intake that I don't know where it is supposed to go. I don't know how or when it got disconnected, but I can't seem to find anything within reach of it that it can connect to.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2000 4x4 Limited 7.3 Powerstroke. 290k miles and runs like a top. However, if I don't plug it in for a few hours before starting she sounds like an old John Deere Poppin' Johnny. I had the glow plugs replaced yet had to go back to the repair shop three times since because it threw a code each time. No codes now just rough shaking and vibrating start for about 5min (without plugging in block heater) or so then once warmed up she runs great.
View 7 Replies
I have a 97 f150 4.6 4x4 i cant get my engine to line back up with the motor mounts. Is there a trick to doing this? I've tried to lift the motor several different ways, but still nothing. Its like the motor isn't going back far enough. But it cannot go back any more without hitting the trans?
View 8 Replies
