Wondering what could cause a driveline vibration after a new clutch was put in at 136,000 by a repair shop.. The vibration was not there before, could the halfshafts or the motor mounts ,engine brackets if not installed exactly as before cause this, am bringing back to shop to get this corrected.
View 2 RepliesMy rearmost drive shaft u-joint is bad and has slop. I've been having vibration for about 7-8 months, but just started hearing a noise within the past week, especially when taking off with a load on the drive line (uphill or heavy acceleration). The vibration has not gotten worse, just that the noise has just begun to show itself.
I have one u-joint which is OE and has 275K miles on it, and it seems to be OK at the moment. The other two (including the rearmost unit) both have about 100K miles, as does the center support bearing.
Just because I don't want to worry about anything, I'm going to replace all three u-joints with Moog Super Strength units, and will also replace the Center Bearing with a new Spicer unit... just because I can and don't want to be pecked to death with multiple failures in the same drive line. I ordered the Moog joints because the only Spicer joints I could find were for the 4wd configuration.
That's the context... here's my question... The parts are on order and won't get here for several days. I've been driving the truck like it is at about 1500 miles monthly. Do I continue to drive the truck for another week before getting the joints and bearing installed? I know it's a guess... just looking for more perspective.
I have a strange vibration that radiates from, i think, the drive line or transmission.
View 1 RepliesSince I bought this '05 Ex, I have had a driveline vibration. Not bad mind you... just barely noticeable when I let off the gas going 50+ mph. I had my local Ford dealer change the Ujoints and it worked a little.
I just installed Firestone Air Bags on the rear axle. I put 20 lbs. of pressure in them and it raised the rear exactly 1 inch (I measured before and after). After the air bags were in and pressurized and the rear lifted 1 inch, I took it for a drive. WOW! The driveline vibration is completely gone. Smooth as glass.
Question that I need opinions on from those who have more experience with an Ex than I do: Did my rear springs sag enough to cause a driveline vibration? And did the lifting of 1 inch put it BACK to stock height so that the driveline is now correct?
t's a '00 extended cab swb 4.6L with 4r70w trans. I have a Hotchkis TVS 2/4 kit on it. It's been lowered 3 years now and I've never had any real issue. But I started noticing a small vibration through the floor so I took my driveshaft out to be balanced and new U joints installed. Ever since then I've had an audible "hum" from the rear whenever I go over 75mph. It only does this under load (hill, etc) and I don't hear anything until then. The driveline shop told me it was my pinion angle and I've tried shims with only slight improvement. I'll replace the driveshaft after I do a motor and trans swap down the line, but it's out of the budget for now.
View 2 RepliesI put a new clutch kit in my 99 f-150 with the 4.6. It came with the clutch disk,pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got the tranny back up in but now my Hydraulic line will not connect into the slave cylinder. Its still the same one that was in it.
View 1 RepliesI have a 98 F250LD, its a Lariat, so everything electric/auto. Shift on the Fly 4x4, 5.4, 188K, Factory rear air suspension. Typical Minnesota rust. Anyway, I just noticed in the last 75 miles or so, a drive-line vibration. There is nothing until 39 MPH. Then from 39-41 MPH there is a decent vibration. Stops until 50, then from 50 MPH up it is a steady vibration. I have already changed the u-joints in the rear shaft. I have pulled/wiggled on everything else I can think of with no luck of finding of anything loose.
One thing I did notice, is that the front axle is locked in all the time. How long it has been like this: years for all I know... I can flip the switch from 2wd to 4H and 4L. It all seems to work fine, I hear clicking, the 4x4 engages, the proper lights come on/off. The front axle will pull when supposed to. The transfer case seems to be working fine, but the front axle won't disengage. I am hoping this can be fixed cheaply/easily (DIYer), and also hoping this explains my low fuel mileage.
Front axle? Where to look or what to try and fix for the vibration?
A coworker has asked me to take a look at their 2013 Camry LE, 48,000 miles. It has a quite annoying vibration at idle and only when in reverse or drive. AC is not running this time of year, but does get worse if the compressor is turned on.
I'd like to think the trans and engine mounts are fine. It does not have any noticeable torque converter shudder. I have cleaned the throttle body, not that dirty, but not much improvement.
I suggested that he try different brands and grades of gas to see if matters improved at all - Shell 89 seems to be a slight improvement over what is normally used (just 87 from Costco, Sunoco, or Hess), but nothing substantial.
Spark plug change, decarbonizing top end?
Spark plugs look about like I'd expect an iridium plug to at these miles - no signs of oil burning, not tons of carbon, etc. I didn't get a real good look at the piston tops.
I have a 04 camry and this car leaks gas after i pump about line before the full line. What do i need to do?!
View 2 RepliesWhen I'm driving and the clutch is slipping a bit ( i.e. starting from a stop) I feel very noticeable vibration. Is that a sign the clutch is starting to do? I feel like a year ago it was smoother action, and I barely had to give it gas to get started ( could start with clutch action mostly).
View 9 RepliesI just got my 2003 passat 1.8T 5 speed. i noticed that every time i come up to 1500 to 3000 rmp in 3rd gear the clutch or what ever that is hesitates to spin. I am wondering what could it be? and the other day when i was driving in the freeway i noticed that when ever i get to 78-80mph i feel or the car starts to vibrate. does my car needs alignment?
View 1 RepliesI just replaced a clutch line yesterday on a 98 s10 and it failed again today it blew at the same spot....
View 19 RepliesI tried everything I can think of and the ac clutch still does not kick in. This is for my 2003 Camry with a 4 cylinder. I'm thinking perhaps the low pressure switch may be bad. Can't find it, where is the low pressure switch located if there is one.
View 14 RepliesMy wife has a 2003 Camry that we had to replace the clutch last year. Now her clutch pedal goes to the floor and does not return.
View 2 RepliesA friend brought a '97 Z3 roadster by the other day for my opinion.Cute little car with a nearly new top and tires, and supposedly a recent clutch. Peppy 2.8L DOHC I-6. Just over 100K miles.
The only thing I could really fault the car on was a thumping noise coming from somewhere in the drive line. It is only noticeable on starting from a dead stop. It doesn't seem to matter whether you start out slow and easy, or like a jack rabbit, which it does well. You hear THUMP THUMP THUMP, and can almost feel it under you as you drive. The differential is VERY near both passenger's backsides. If you start out hard it may be more like THUMP THUMP.... THUMP thump THUMP before it quits making noise Of course the car has independent rear suspension. I'm thinking it may be a rear CV joint in need of lubrication. This car did sit for nearly a year recently as it was tied up in an estate. I don't know if that's part of it or not, but it might be.
So my Ex squeaks at low speeds. If I turn the wheel slightly it seems to make it worse. The other day I had the rear end on the ice. Accelerated and spun the tired. I could hear a squeak squeak squeak. I lifted the rear of the truck and put it in drive. No squeak. Every thing sounds fine. I put it in N and spun the drive shaft. Maybe some noise at the transfer case? Could that bearing leaving the transfer case cause it? That an easy fix? Or ?? I also note some chatter occasionally from the rear end. I did just change the fluid. But may need to do it again. The squeak is the more annoying problem at the moment.
View 3 RepliesI have a '89 Jeep Wrangler 2.5L with the AX5 transmission. I noticed over time I had to push the clutch pedal down more to make it work. I checked the hydraulic fluid reservoir and it was empty. I filled it but the pedal had no pressure. I looked at bleed the line protruding out from the clutch housing and noticed a fluid trail on it and inside the clutch housing. The rubber insulator at the opening was missing and suspect corrosion and any movement on the line cracked it where it connects inside. I am ready to junk this vehicle because it is rusted pretty bad, but thought I'd ask before I do.
View 3 RepliesI've test driven a used 2003 (155K) I'm considering purchasing. But the clutch is so stiff, especially compared to my 93 Accord. What makes a new clutch, pressure plate a throw out bearing so hard to engage?
View 9 RepliesThis is probably always present but I hear it most at low speed if I am off the gas and brake. Slightly accelerating or lightly touching the brakes seems to reduce or stop the noise. It is a knocking noise coming from the right front and the rate is related to car speed. I am guessing CV joint. What is it?
View 4 RepliesHow to remove the drive belt on my 2003 camry 4 cyl.
View 5 RepliesIn a 4 cylinder 2003 Camry car is smooth until 40+ mph. Above 40mph there is a vibration in the front that gets worse the more gas you give it. But here is the strange thing, if you release the gas pedal the coast the vibration stops instantly. Example you get to 50mph the front is vibrating bad but only when you foot is depressing the gas pedal. If you release the gas pedal the vibrating stops and it is smooth as glass. I change the bottom engine mounts and the top mount and the problem is still there. What could be the problem?
View 6 Replies