Toyota - Avalon :: Battery Completely Loses Its Charge Every 10k Miles
Nov 29, 2014
My 2013 Avalon Limited was purchased in Dec 2012. It is my 3rd one - have always loved them. But THIS one has been a disappointment. It seems that every 10k miles the battery completely loses its charge and the battery must be completely replaced or fully charged - RIDICULOUS. I only have 30k miles on it! Is this a known issue with Toyota? I have gone from feeling completely confident in my car to not knowing whether it will start up when I need it!
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I have a 1997 Volvo 850 where the battery slowly loses its charge. We don't drive it much so every two weeks it has to be trickly charged.
I have determined that there is a drain of 150 mA. When removing fuse 15, it drops to a drain of 50-60 mA. When removing fuse 6 (central locking)(in conjunction with 15) it drops to a drain of 10 mA. I can live with a drain of 10 mA
I don't mind removing fuse 15 as it is not critical. However, with the fuse removed, it makes a beeping noise - like the indicator when a door is open. IS THERE A SIMPLE WAY TO STOP THE BEEPING?
I understand that there is an electrical issue but not sure I want to spend a lot of money to fix it. I am not very mechanically inclined and I have a feeling it could cost a lot to fix this.
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I see this was discussed back in 06 but not resolved. Maybe more owners have had additional experiences with this.
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The symptoms are: HV Battery loses almost all charge over night. Sometimes it won't start. HV battery loses charge fast while cruising in the city (I used to see it getting green at the highways with cruise control and now it doesn't happen). Red warning light goes on randomly.
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My 2007 Prius has 120,000 miles. I live in a mountainous area. I need to climb 3 miles at 6% grade to get out of my neighborhood. Lately I've been noticing the traction battery loses charge fairly quickly and I've been thinking about replacing the battery. Much of my driving is in steep hills and I run a full charge cycle many times a day, so I guess I should expect some loss of life.
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I purchased a new 2012 Toyota Avalon and had the dealer install a trunk spoiler before I picked it up. Unless the trunk is completely opened and seated, the lid falls down--most times while your head or hands are in the way. I went back to the dealership and they told me that the lifting mechanism was working correctly and that they had never heard of this happening before. They also said Toyota does not make a heavier duty lifting mechanism.
Their advise was basically get used to it because, after all, it is my fault because I requested the spoiler in the first place or to see a member of their sales staff and try to work out a deal on a new 2013 car. I cannot believe that I am the only Avalon owner who has a spoiler on their car. I have talked to the owners of other makes of cars who have spoilers on their cars and not one of them has this problem. Most will hold its position when lid is even less than 1/2 opened.
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Yesterday when i was driving on highway on my dash board the lights came on: the check engine light, master light, brakes lights. After driving couple of miles my car completely shut down. I took the exit and after that the car didn't start at all. Even i couldn't start the ignition to connect my OBD scaner to read the codes. Now I even can't do something to read the codes or to turn the engine on somehow, what to do.
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I inhereted a prius 2005 and need some education. It has 75000 miles and the battery level stays between the green and blue mostly. I was stuck in bad traffic and as I watched the battery level sucked down rapidly - to the point that I started turning it off and on to save on the battery - is this normal? Is there some switch/button i should press in this situation? I couldn't find anything in the manual.
Also - is there some technique in driving that would charge the battery better? I have just used my first full tank of gas and my mileage was 48 miles/gallon, so I'm pretty happy. I will be driving 30 miles each way to work, mostly at 60/70 mph - but as we know, traffic jams happen.
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My 2002 Toyota Prius keeps dying (triangle of death and OBD Code 3191) after running smoothly for a few seconds each time I start the engine. Clearing the DTC code allows restart. But the check engine light and triangle of death keep returning after a few seconds.
It has been doing all this since I recharged the 12V battery (which had been drained completely by a dome light left on for 3 days). Initial attempts to recharge the 12V battery were causing current spikes at charger, and (relay?) clicking sound under the hood. So I disconnected positive battery cable and charged the battery in isolation, then reconnected it to the vehicle after charging was complete.
When I reconnected the recharged 12V battery the vehicle (honking horn) alarm went off. But that stopped when I unlocked door with key. It may not be related, but I'm also hearing a fan-like sound (under driver seat) when ignition key is in run position. I don't recall hearing that sound in the past.
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I had several incidents where the car would not start & the battery was dead after the car sat a few days. After my shop checked & could not find a specific cause we ended in replacing the the battery & the clamps that held it. The car was fine for a month and then it went dead again after being left unused for 4 days. I wondered if my shop had the proper equipment to find problem. The vehicle has 175,000 miles on it.
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I have a 1996 Nissan Sentra GXE 1.6L automatic. It fails to start intermittently. It does not matter if the engine is hot or cold. It does not turn over and it seems the whole car has lost power (no engine warning lights, no power locks, etc).
I have taken the battery to be tested and it comes out "good." Once I put the battery back in, the car starts and power is restored to the entire car. The starter (1-month-old) and alternator (1-year-old) test out good also. I changed the inhibitor relay, but the problem occurred again 2 weeks later.
I also noticed one time when I attempted to jump the car with the negative jumper cable attached to the engine block of the dead car or to the negative battery terminal of the dead car, the car would just click (as though attempting to turn over). However, when I connected the jumper cable to the exposed part of the dead car's negative battery cable (right next to the battery cable connector), it starts.
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I'm still learning how to do P&G, it's my first hybrid. When I release the accelerator pedal completely, I see there's a small blue bar in the charge area. I know it in charging stage but does this slow down the car? I confuse if my car is slowed down by this or the wind resistance.
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I was driving my Sonata this morning to work as usual. It was a wet morning but not raining. I hit a pothole (which I've hit before) going 35-40 mph. About 1-2 minutes later I was driving about 30-35 mph when I heard a click, lost power and then everything came back on. I believe during this "power loss" that I couldn't accelerate since I remember the rpm going down but I know that I took my foot off of the accelerator when this happened. I kept driving to work and about 2-3 minutes later while coasting down a hill at 35-45 mph. It happened really fast twice in a row.
Each time there was a click, the lights would dim or shut off completely (not sure since it happens so fast), the check engine light would flash, and I believe the radio turned off. Since it happened so fast (click, shut off, and back on) I didn't get to see if I could keep driving (accelerate) or if power steering was gone. I am guessing that they would be gone with my limited knowledge of what I was experiencing. I was able to drive 8 minutes to work without it happening again. I popped the hood looking for a loose connection around the battery but nothing was popping out at me. My car has 117,000 miles and has regular maintenance done. Any ways I could diagnose it further? Can O'reilleys check the code that flashed on and off if it isn't on anymore?
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1986 302 w/ 160k miles. Loses oil pressure at idle after driving approx 10 miles. Rev engine to about 1500 rpm and hold it there, pressure builds back up. Oil & filter change w/ 10W30 gives no improvement, oil & filter change w/ 20W50 cures problem for 100 miles, then the pressure starts dropping again. Oil pump problem or bad bearings? BTW, when pressure drops, I do not hear any lifter clatter.
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I could not drain the engine oil completely; only oil in the canister is drained.
When I changed the engine oil, I could not remove the drain plug (small cap in the canister) so I ended up unscrewing the canister first. When I removed the canister, I did not see continuous stream of oil draining. So I placed back the canister and managed to remove the small drain cap. As instructed in the replace oil box, I inserted the plastic piece into the canister but again only oil in the canister got drained; no continuous draining. I repeated this step a few times ( I started engine to fill the canister) and was able to remove some oil but still not all.
The question is; by unscrewing the canister and draining oil in the canister first, am I breaking siphoning effect? Is the reason why I cannot completely drain the oil?
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So I have ran into the problem of the left headlight flickering. It went completely off today.
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I have an 03 v10 with a Powerdyne supercharger. The Ex came with an extra computer with a Superchip. The Superchip has a proper tune for the supercharger but when I install it with the extra "bad" computer the truck will completely shut down after driving ~100 miles. This is very dangerous because I lose power steering and brakes during the shutdown. The Ex starts back up after a few minutes and then shuts down more frequently until I reset the computer. I speculate that something is going wrong after the "bad" computer has learned the driving habits.
The other "good" computer works great and does not ever shut off the motor, but at full throttle the Ex will bog and I am losing HP produced by the SC. I don't think it has the optimal tune because my wideband AFR reads lean right before it bogs and I think it is bogging to protect the motor from a lean condition. I would like to install the chip into the "good" computer that never shuts the truck down to get the benefit of the proper tune, but I don't want to risk damaging it or experiencing the dreaded shutdown. A few questions :
- Why the truck shuts down while under power?
- Any reason to think that the chip will cause the "good" computer to shut down while driving?
- Could the chip be causing the shutdown, not the actual "bad" computer itself?
- Would the best option be to send the chip to 5star tunes and have them program a tuner with the superchip tune...and a few others?
- Any way to flash the "good" computer with the superchip tune?
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I've been told that my 12V battery was low.
I stumbled on this ATV/ motorcycle battery companion in the garage, can I use it to charge my prius?
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I just bought a new 2001 Grand Prix. I am not completely car savvy, but I know a few things for a lady.
The battery won't hold a charge.
and the computer diagnostic tester thing says the Headlamp Relay is malfunctioning.
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I've had the car for about 24 hours. I love it so far. My one question seems to be that the battery doesn't seem to charge all the way up. There seems to be room for 2 more bars to be completely full. Is this normal? Something to be concerned about? How this works, but if it is supposed to be full to the top, I probably should go back to the dealer?
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I'm wondering if there's a way to force the ICE to charge the HV battery, either while standing or driving. Currently, EV Mode kicks in while coasting down a hill, and I would rather use those moments to effectively charge the battery rather than trickle charge with what little gain that gravity gives me.
I know there was a way on other models to charge the battery while standing by depressing the accelerator in park (or in drive with the brake depressed), but neither method works with the 2015 Prius C. The battery continues to drain while the ICE runs in park, and it refuses to run in D or B while the brake and accelerator are pressed at the same time.
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