Volvo :: 850 - Tappets Making Noise And Oil Pressure Light Flickering


Jul 8, 2013

Recently I overhauled the engine put new rod bearing and had it bored and honed. As well as new pistons. when i first started it, it ran fairly good except for the tappets making noise but i thought this was normal. after 40 miles the tappets were still making noise and the oil light began flickering. I replaced the oil pan o rings with no luck. i also took the pump apart to check that and still nothing. I have a feeling a main bearing might have been put in the wrong spot. What should i do next to confirm this? what should i do from this point on?

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The oil pressure light in my '02 Civic (~96K) has been randomly flickering on, for a second or less, at different speeds, road conditions, length of time in the car, etc. I have taken it to a good reputable shop and to a Honda service shop, and neither of them can pinpoint the problem. The good shop thought it might be a faulty sensor, but Honda shop guy said he's never replaced a sensor in his career. I've been driving ~400 miles per week since August. I had the alternator replaced at the good shop a couple months before the oil light started flickering. The Honda shop just said that the alternator was charging too high, but they didn't say if that was related to the oil light coming on. The battery was replaced in August, the oil level and pressure are good, and I got the oil changed two weeks ago when the good shop checked out the oil light problem. What is causing the oil light to come on??

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Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 3.5L - Oil Pressure Indicator Light Flickering

For the past several months, I've noticed a gradually worsening flicker in my oil pressure indicator light. The light is off if I'm accelerating or downshifting for a pass or a hill climb, and it also goes off when I'm coasting or de-accelerating.

It's never steadily on, sometimes it's just barely visible, other times its flickering, fading, and brightening, but never at full brightness. It doesn't matter whether I'm at highway speed or at a slow speed, it's only a change in rpm that makes it go out.

I'm hoping, hoping, hoping that it's a problem with the pressure sensor, and not with the oil pump itself. Does the oil pump tend to fail gradually like that, it is it more indicative of a sensor problem? I'm hoping the latter, because replacing the pump is a major undertaking, one that I doubt I would do myself.

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Lexus GS 2006-11 :: Tappets Noise On Cold Start Until Fully Warm?

I'm new to the Lexus scene, just got myself a gs300 le 2006 - just had it over a week, amazing car but its sounds a bit tappet on cold starts until fully warm sounds scary... noise disappears once it's fully warm.

for a Lexus to do this is a bit disappointed, have searched around can not really find a fix...

It has full Lexus service history, just changed the oil in hope for the noise to disappear... Castrol edge 5w30... no different

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Volvo - 240 :: 1990 Making Noise At About 20-30 Miles Per Hour

My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.

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Volvo :: 1992 850 Estate (wagon) Making Noise When Driving

I have a 1992 850 Estate (wagon) which has been making a funny noise when driving. I cannot locate it. The noise only happens when driving, I have never herd it when stationary. Most often when cold but not exclusively. I have examined all the items attached to the engine driven by the serpentine belt all run smoothly. The belt was changed just after I bought it.

I have checked the wheel arches to see if the tyres rub but no. The suspension is fairly new with new anti-roll bar links fitted for last MOT. The noise sounds like a dry bearing and is a combination of a rub and a screech, there is no loss of coolant but I suspect the water pump or one of the tensioning rollers to be at fault. The last owner told me that the belt had been changed a few months before I bought the car (off Ebay) but he did not say anything about the rollers or water pump and I did not ask.

One other point is that when I bought the car I had to add a full 5 litres of oil to the sump due to their being no oil on the dip stick. Since then the engine has run well (good engineering) but this noise is happening and as I have said it is driving me nuts.

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Last weekend I decided my brothers 850 T5 was well over due an Engine oil and AFT change (two years for oil and never for the atf). The car has done 182,000 and drives great. Any way I bought 20 litres of 15w-40 and 20 litres of DEX 3 atf as it worked out a lot cheaper and it can be used for my fathers 940.

Anyway on Saturday I got the engine warm and noticed the oil pressure light flicker on and off. it had never done that before so I should have checked the dipstick there and then but I just went ahead and drained the old oil and removed the filter. To my surprise only about two litres of black oil came out despite the fact my brother swears he checked it 2 weeks before and it was fine. I thought this was odd as the engine had been running perfect and at that level I would expect serious damage to have been done. I fitted the new filter and sump plug with washer, filled a 5 litre tub from the bigger 20L tub and poured in 4L. I checked the dip stick and it took the remaining litre to get the level correct. I checked it again and then started the engine to get the oil into the filter etc and the level was still perfect. I finished the atf change(that's another story) and thought it a job well done.

The next evening my brother was about to use the car and I said I would check the level one more time now it was cold. There was nothing on the dipstick. There was no oil under the car so I slowly topped it up but nothing showed on the stick. I knew there was at least 5 litres in there so I didn't want to over fill it but when I started it, it sounded tappety. I put another couple of litres in and the noise reduced but still nothing on the stick. he then drove the car for a short journey and it drove fine but I said it was still tappety. I checked the oil again and now the handle snaps off the dipstick.

I have done oil changes many times before and am really very competent mechanically (I'm an engineer). Any way this gets me doubting the dipsticks accuracy so I suggest he let our neighbour who's a mechanic take a look the next day and basically today he came back and said he drained the oil and there was only 2.5 litres of oil in the engine. He topped it up and it's running fine and I fixed the dipstick with glue to check and it's perfect there as well. The thing is I know that I put enough in there, and my 20 litre tub has only 10 left.

The car is fine now. I know the obvious ones are that it was my mistake and I didn't put enough oil in, or I don't know the difference between a 1 litre and 5 litre tub but I assure you that this wasn't the case. Is there any where internal this quantity of engine oil can leak to? the transmission? coolant?

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Acura - MDX :: 2009 Making Noise Like Pressure Releasing

I have a 2009 Acura MDX. This morning I was sitting in my car for a few minutes after turning it on. All of the sudden I heard a very loud noise like air pressure being released. Then there was white smoke coming into the cabin that smelled like burnt rubber. I turned off the car then turned it back on, and again this sound began after it idled for a couple minutes. Then my husband came home from work to check it out, and of course it did t do it. But we think the exhaust smoke may be a little whiter than normal and has a slight burnt smell to it.

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Volvo - S60 :: 2002 - Metallic Popping Noise Coming From Right Front Side Every Time Making A Turn

I have owned a 2002 Volvo S60 2.4L for the past two years, and she has served me well. However, I have been having issues lately. She has hit 179,400-ish miles and with age things have started to fail. I want to know how much it will cost to fix these things and if I can do it myself.

There is a metallic popping noise coming from the right front side of the vehicle every time I make a turn (I haven't particularly noticed if it's a left- or right-hand turn when it happens.) I have been advised by my father that it's probably a CV (constant velocity) joint. Is that what's causing the noise?

My right front headlight has gone out, and I've replaced the bulb as well as the fuse, but it's still out. Could it be faulty wiring? The left front blinker has stopped blinking, I hope that's as simple as changing out the bulb.

The shift is automatic, but in the mornings (I've noticed it's mostly when it's cold outside) I attempt to move the shifter out of park and it won't budge for several minutes. Sometimes I have to turn the engine off, and then turn it back on for the shifter to move.

One last question- how often should I change and/or flush my transmission fluid and the filter, and can I do that myself or should I take it to the dealership? (Which I am reluctant to do.)

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Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.

I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.

Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.

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I've had my '07 Volvo S40 2.4i for almost a year. It has a little over 60K miles on it and is serviced regularly. Within the last 3 months, I've noticed some weird things happening occasionally:

-Trouble starting when cold (I understand this is pretty common with a lot of cars.)
-Headlights & interior lights flickering
-Going over "bumps" in road causing dash display lights to illuminate for a second, radio to shut off, and loud system "BEEP" comes through the speakers (this has happened 3 times total, all on the same day.)
-AC stops cooling periodically I've had the system scanned for the AC issue and it seems that there was a "Pump pressure" message that cleared itself at one point and am guessing the same thing has happened the next few times it's done this.

I also asked that the battery be checked to see if it needed to be replaced soon. The mechanic said the battery was fine and thinks it's something wrong with the entire electrical system.

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