Volvo - S40 :: 2006 - A/C Stops Working When Gets Hot?
Jun 9, 2014
I drive a Volvo S40, 2006 with 45K miles. When I take the car out of my garage the AC works beautifully until the car begins to get warm. At about 30 minutes into the driving trip, only warm air blows. If I park anywhere in the sun, the AC does not provide cold air at all. The AC only works when the car is cool. I brought it to the dealer and they said the compressor is shouting off and needs to be replaced. I was hoping that it was low on refrigerant, which they did not check, and my son thinking that a fan belt gets loose when the car warms up. When I went to the dealer it was a cool day. I drove several places that morning and the AC worked for three hours before going warm.
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My Acura has been having some problems with what I"m guessing is a computer glitch. It's been to the mechanic four times in the past two weeks and while my dealer has been great about cooperating and trying to fix the problem, I think they just don't know what the problem is. The problems started when one day I was driving the car and all of a sudden all the error message lights came on and the car could no longer accelerate. Drove it slowly back home but when i took it to the mechanic the next day, it was working fine so he couldn't do anything about it.
Took it home and within ten minutes the problem started again. This time i took it to an Acura dealer and they kept the car for two days until it started acting up again (engine warning lights and what not) and they did an engine valve replacement of the traction control or some such thing. Two days later I was driving and the car just shut off and wouldn't turn back on. I was moving and not stopped or anything at the time. Took the car back again and they decided to change the whole computer system. Now two days later again, the check emission and check transmission warnings came on again.
The car is still working for the time being but its only a matter of time before it conks out on me. Also, even while running, the lights that indicitate what gear it is in continuously flash (so the D is flashing instead of solid) and occasionally the D and D3 lights are flashing simultaneously even though I am obviously in drive.
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About a month ago, I was driving 50 mph in my 06 screw on a dirt road. There was an old wood bridge that was not as flush as I was expecting. Jolted the truck pretty good but it kept on trucking. However, a few seconds after the jolt, the power to the AC cut out. All I had to do was turn the AC to "off" then back on and it'd start working fine. Over the last month, the power randomly cuts out, but will go back on after I switch to "off" then back on. It's happened maybe 3 or 4 times since The Big Jolt.
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2000 Volvo v70... When accelerating (particularly at high speed) the air conditioner stops cooling. Until the car is turned off the AC does not cool. Dealer checked out the AC and found no problems.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 V8 truck have factory installed AC. 2 or 3 times a year, the AC will stop blowing cold air after heavy load. If I turn the truck off for few hours, it will work fine again. To be clear, the AC will continue to blow air, it is just not cold and it happens few times a year. What's wrong with it?
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I have a 2001 Buick LeSabre Ltd. A few days ago, I started the engine then turned on the air. The AC Control Unit on the dash seems to work fine. However, the air did not come out from the vents at all. I checked all the fuses under the back seat and under the hood. No fuses were blown.
P.S.: The car is is the South where it is really hot at this time. A few weeks before. The two back doors' windows stopped working (cannot roll down, cannot open via switch). When pressing the buttons at driver's door, I can hear the "click" sounds from the back doors, but they still don't work. That makes me think it is the fuses that also cause problem with the AC now too.
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When I approach a stop my a/c stops working and then begins working again when I drive. How can I fix this problem?
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My wife has recently been complaining that the AC will work for a while, but then it stops working after running for about 30 minutes. She also reports that, at that time, the air flow (blower speed?) seems to drop tremendously. I have observed the former but not the latter, so I can't say for sure that if it really drops in air flow or if it's just a matter of perception. I put my AC gauges on it and it reports the following:
Static reading is 70/100 PSI
Reading system on is 17/145 PSI
Ambient temperature is ~92 degrees humidity is 65%
Vent reading is ~77 degrees
I can see movement in the sight glass while the vehicle is running. I'd like to add a little refrigerant (if that's what it looks like it needs) just to see if we can make it through the summer. Prior to the AC problems popping up.
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The 12V cigarette lighter plug stops working so I can't charge my phone. The 12v plug in the trunk works. I don't know much about cars. I drive a 99 passat
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When I first got my GTI this was a problem maybe every could weeks or so. The driver's side auto up/down will randomly stop working almost every day now. I do the reset by holding the button down for 5 seconds when the window is down and then holding it up for 5 seconds when it's up. It then functions as it should and malfunctions a day or so later. I have a VAG-COM, not sure if that can reset something in the module? Not sure if it could also be the switch itself? I COULD go to the dealer but last time they just did the reset procedure and sent me on my way.
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The power steering on our 98 Toyota Sienna sometimes stops working for a second. It only happens when the car is first started and usually when it is raining or has rained recently. I checked some old posts from Tom and Ray and found one that sounded similar. They said it was the belt being either wet or worn or not tight enough. Does that sound like what our problem is? It also squeals sometimes when you turn the wheel too much so it does seem like the belt could be slipping.
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2003 Merc. SABLE. AC works great for 1/2 hour on the highway. Then No cool air. We shut it off. An hour later and 70 miles down the road , it works again. Always cold air.. no matter where you set temp. 4 times to 3 mechanics. No one can solve it.
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I have a 2002 7.3 ltd X with the 4r100 transmission. The trans shifts fine until it get over 160 deg (glow shift gauge in test port) Then the OD stops working and get no engine braking until I turn off the OD. when od is turned off, appears to shift OK. When the trans temp gets below 150, I get the OD back. The OD light did flash on 2 occasions but no code while engine on and light flashing but OD was working at the time. after shutting off engine and restarting light stopped. New fluid and filter, torque convert was flushed also and X has larger 6.0 trans cooler. Tran did get hot once while towing 4 ton trailer 240 f, thus bigger cooler. what would cause the OD to go out when above 160 f but come back when cool?
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I really don't know whats going on. First my remote to lock my car stops working and it wont take the programming. After about a month now when I turn my car off the horn starts going off as if I pressed the panic button. Do I need to get a new electronic part or something.?
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My AC stops working intermittently - I got a whole new compressor about 2 years ago, then it stopped working altogether about a month ago, they said they couldn't find any leak but filled it up w/ added dye. Now it blows cold for awhile on the highway, but will randomly blow warm air, and also blow warm air when I'm stopped at a light (Which is no good in Phoenix, AZ) I took it back in and they said they couldn't find a leak or anything wrong with it, that some hose was probably just freezing and then I would have to wait for it to thaw... but that doesn't explain why it never happened before... and it's not normal (clearly)... I just want a car that I don't have to roast in this summer!
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I have a 2001 Kia Sportage. Manual transmission.
For the past two days, once the vehicle has been running long enough to get hot, it becomes really difficult to shift. I think I'm losing the clutch pedal. For example, when in first gear stopped at a traffic light, the car will stall out with the clutch engaged (as if the clutch weren't pressed down.) With the car moving, it's physically very hard to move the gear shift.
Topped off the break/clutch master cylinder fluid, and it seems ok. Also took a look at the transmission fluid, and it is not low.
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My A/C quits working when in stop and go traffic or at a long light. Comes back on when I get going again after a minute or 2. One shop says thermistor another says thermostat is faulty causing engine to overheat. Not sure who to believe. Car gauge never shows engine to be overheating. 2007 Hyundai Tiburon
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I have a 2009 Honda accord ex coupe and the Ac works fine when I'm driving but once I stop it stops and the air starts to get warmer but if I rev it at a red light the Ac starts to work and I have nice cold air. Both radiator and condenser fan work and are spinning and the same time when the Ac is on. The compressor will cycle on and off at idle but it will turn on for maybe two seconds. And turn off but if I have someone rev the engine it will kick on and stay on at about 1500rpm and the Ac works normally I have no leaks.
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Our Nissan Sentra 2004 heater occasionally stops working, usually when its very cold of course. Usually, the heater starts working fairly quickly but then starts blowing cold air. If you move the vent dial to different positions something changes and the heat starts working again. A mechanic says that something in the heating vents has probably come lose and to find it quite abit of the engine parts will need to be removed resulting in a big bill.
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My heater works when engine on tickover then stops working after a mile or so driving. I have taken heater hoses off and it does not seem blocked and have replaced the engine thermostat. Now what can I do??
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About a year ago I was driving along and ran into some traffic. A few minutes later I noticed the AC stopped working, (it was about 85F out), and then I noticed that the engine temp was getting much warmer. Had never seen this before. The car had about 70k miles on it.
Turned on the heater and was able to get the engine temp down. Immediately took it to my local mechanic, who checked that the compressor was running, but was unwilling to tackle this diagnosis and recommended I take it to the dealer.
Took it to the dealer the next day and they diagnosed a bad compressor which they replaced for $1200. However the very next day after I picked it up the very same thing happened. Engine overheating and the AC turns off.
Pretty disappointed in this - I expected the dealer to be able to fix this, especially for $1200. So I left it with them for a week, and still they were not able to diagnose or duplicate the problem. Asked me to come in when it is happening, but since they are about 30 minutes away and it only happens once in a while I gave up on that.
However, ever since then it will occasionally have the same issue. I can usually resolve it by parking for a while, or by turning on the heater for a while. The AC does work most of the time, but of course this problem usually occurs only on very hot days.
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