I have a V40 with 122,000 miles. About 4 to 5 years ago it started to sporadically drop subtly the RPM. It does this no matter the weather, air on or off, etc. the dealer about 2 years ago changed the idle sensor. The problem still exists today. This does not affect the performance of the car. I bought the car new, the transmission was replaced about a year and a half after I bought the car.
View 3 RepliesMy Volvo is having some ac issues and I am trying to figure out what is happening. The compressor works sporadically while driving. When it is on it blows cold, but then all of a sudden it shuts off. I had a friend check the refrigerant levels he said they were fine. He said the high side pressure is at 350, which is high.
View 10 RepliesI have a problem with my 1988 740 Turbo. It starts and runs fine, but when cold it experiences a drop every few seconds when idling. In other words, when idling cold, it will act as though the key was turned off but just before stopping completely it catches and continues to run.
I guess I'm trying to describe something other than rough running, or a poor idle - this is more like an ignition short where the engine completely stops (but never does). The tach needle shows this also. It continues doing this while accelerating around the neighborhood but once the car is at operating temp it smooths out. I live in San Diego so it never gets cold here.
The car was tuned up last year and the distributor was replaced at the same time. New cap, wires, plugs. Car has close to 290K and still runs great except for this issue.
I'm not sure where this should be posted, but my MFD showed a mileage reset to 0 today. I only reset at fill-ups so that I can do long division.
Anyway, while trying to figure this out, I saw on the Consumption screen that the AMPG also started bouncing around. Before I shut off the engine, it bounced between 39 and 42.
Since the last fill up, the pips have been decreasing quickly...4 in 71 miles. I know the pips are not a linear measure, but 4 in 71 miles seems pretty quick.
Where I should start looking?
Car is a 2004 1.8T GLI. My A/C seems to be cycling on and off sporadically. Some days it will work great and other days it is non existent. For example, this morning I had the A/C blowing ice cold with everything running as it should including the fan. Well now that a couple hours have passed, my A/C is now dead and only blowing hot air in my face as usual. Now, I have had the refrigerant levels checked and refilled twice now by an A/C specialist. He assured that all mechanical aspects of the A/C system are fine and that I might have an electrical problem. With that said, I have gone through a list of possible causes. Here is what I have checked so far.
-All of my fuses including the three on top of the battery have been tested and came out fine.
-Refrigerant levels are within spec (checked for leaks by A/C tech and found nothing. Twice.)
-Both of my fans are working. The small fan engages with either rising temperature or when the A/C decides to work.
As of now it seems that I am not receiving constant power to the compressor as it will engage randomly throughout the day(s) if left on. I have no clue where to look next.
So for the last few months, I've had my check engine light on my 111,000 mile 2005 Prius going off sporadically. Everyone tells me it's the gas cap, but I've been putting off replacing it because I want to make sure I get something compatible.
View 8 RepliesMore questions on OBD codes but I'm trying to understand my problem. The check engine light came on for a week and then off and then on etc.. I thought it was the gas cap or wet/loose wire on the 1st O2 sensor. Well, I went to advanced auto and they said P0141 I think (bank 1, sensor 2 after the cat convertor) and the right rear ABX wire/reader. He told me to clean the ABS sensor (it was filthy with dirt and I can see how it can't read) and I did the other rear and the front left one (it was different on the front than the back and was clean so I didn't do the right front). So, now the light is still on probably due to the O2 sensor. I intend to get a mechanic change out the sensor (denso at adv auto for 70 bucks plus labor) and reset the computer to see if the ABS sensor code comes again or it's fixed.
Why did the check engine light come on and off? I thought once on, it only goes off if it's a gas cap issue. Next, does the computer reset itself or will a mechanic have to reset it? Can the ABS switch be just dirty or do they die and it needs replacement? Why didn't the ABS light on the dash come on if the error code was for the ABS wire which will mess up the ABS system?
My wife and I have a 2004 F-150 5.4 L SCrew 2WD which is stuttering sporadically when we drive it. It will run fine and then suddenly when you increase pressure on the peddle, it will occasionally (one or twice per 30 min or more trip) hesitate. At first I was thinking it was a fuel problem, and now I am inclined to think it is a transmission problem. It causes jerking (feeling of loss of power) and then quickly goes away.
No codes show up in the computer and no lights come on in the dash. Miraculously when service drives it at the local dealer, they state that they don't find anything. We also feel the truck shifts hard since the last PCM update (the dealer states that it has the most recent PCM update). The condition has worsened and we are nearing our original MFW expiration at 36,000. We did purchase the prem extended warranty however. We recently talked the service manager into putting the in-flight computer in it, and I need to take it back today or tomorrow to have it removed.
I have a 1997 Audi A4 that has been acting a little bit strange lately. When it is started up and left to idle all of a sudden the RPMs drop from around 600-800 to 100-200 sometimes rebounding back up and sometimes the car just dies. This also is happening while I am driving and stopped at a stop light for a short time. It will idle fine then suddenly drop RPMs and if I don't give it any gas then the car usually dies. I have just had some work done on it to try and fix this problem thinking it was the air flow sensor (or something like that) but apparently that is not the case.
View 2 Replies2000 Explorer 4.0 dohc avd. 150k miles. The torque converter lock-up function has started to drop out. It can happen after some miles and will light a warning light in the dash that the manual states as "contact tech" or something like that. Everything gets back to normal with just a "blip" to "off-position for the ignition switch and might stay normal for all between 5 minutes to several hours. Seems to me it is an electrical issue. Dirt, sensors?
Runs and shifts fine other than this. Only thing I have noticed is that the temp gauge reads pretty low but I think this started earlier and I understand that the temp gauge has its own sensor. Where to start looking?
I have a 2000 Lexus RX300 with 210,000 miles on it. We recently started to have some transmission issues. It sporadically drops into 1st gear while driving. We had the transmission fluid changed, and it did work for a short time, but it has recently started again. Is my transmission going to completely fail or is this something that is serviceable? We are trying to decide whether it's worth it to keep the car and fix it and drive it for another 100,000 miles or sell it. It looks great and drives great, otherwise.
View 3 RepliesIn the beginning of January I bought a 2004 F-450 6.0 with 186k miles (not sure if its been clocked back).
Since I bought the truck I have had only 2 issues that are odd. One is a hot no start that is very sporadic (its happened 5 or 6 times). I know it needs 500 psi min to crank and when that happens it gets to around 350psi. Because Im afraid of issues I did a oil change the day after I bought it did a road trip of 2500 miles (with no issues) and did a oil change again. All with motorcraft filters, lucas oil stabilizer and I use a little of diesel kleen or lucas injector cleaner every time I fuel up. I was told never go below half a tank so I follow that rule.
The second is a small oil leak from the passenger side. BUT it only happens when the truck sits for 3 or 4 days unused. During my road trip, not one drop. I used it on the weekend not one drop, but since its my 3rd vehicle I park it Sat or Sunday and by Wednesday Ill see the size of silver dollar, I cant seem to find it.
Also it has a egr delete but the heads have not been done, and I want to put a tuner. Would that be ok? I dont drive hard. As a example on my road trip I NEVER went past 70mph(with my wife saying I drive slow) and I averaged around 15mpg. I would like to get more mpg.
My radiator fan recently started coming on while in reverse. The weird thing is when it's in park it sounds like the fan is trying to come on but never does. It sounds like the fan just keeps getting turned on and off very very rapidly. When I put it in reverse it just turns on, in neutral and drive it's off. This only happens when I've been driving for at least a few mins.
View 3 RepliesCould this be from bad gas? I put a bottle of Gum out fuel system cleaner in the tank was almost full and the directions say to put it in when almost empty and then fill for best results. My son bought gas at the same place I did and his car started having idle problems at about the same time my problems started (sometimes his engine races, sometimes normal, sometimes so slow it stalls out).
My car is a 98 Volvo S70
I have a 2007 S60. Other day my wife was driving when the driver's seat started moving all by itself - moved all the way forward and stopped which was very frightening while you are doing 110 kmh! Nothing caught in the switches on the side, switches were not wet (shorting). I took it out later but nothing happened until I got out, locked the door and watched as the seat started to move and again did not stop until it was all the way forward! Lucky I wasn't driving - I'm 6'3" and it would have been very uncomfortable. I moved it back, locked 'er up and by the time I got back to the car 30 minutes late, it had happened all over again.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
View 2 RepliesWe were driving last weekend in a heavy rain storm when our 2004 XC70 started making a loud siren noise. The noise increased with acceleration. We pulled off the road, turned the car off. When restarted the sound was gone, but then returned again when driving in heavy rain. Any clues as to what is causing this noise and if it needs attention?
View 21 RepliesJust trying to get a list of possible reasons my car is acting funny. I may have one problem or more than one problem.
-The dashboard lights started going on and off intermittently while driving. I could feel the power steering was off but the engine never shut off. This happened first while I was running the A/C, but eventually started happening when the A/C was off. When the A/C was on, the car made a funny squeal sound then more of a grinding. The A/C stopped blowing cold air.
-The same thing would happen when driving through water/rain (the dashboard lights would come on and it felt like the car died but it didnt).
-The other night, the SRS light came on, cars electrical started shutting off. Car died. Jump started it, it ran for a couple miles, then died again. This happened the whole 12 mile trip home.
-Mechanic came over, said it was my battery. Replaced battery. Car died again 3 days later. I noticed the lights on the dashboard came on more while making a turn, but they came on while driving too, so idk if that is a good assumption.
When you are accelerating anywhere from half to full throttle it may cut out at any given time. The RPM will drop down, it may bounce up and down for a bit and recover, or it will drop all the way down and stall. If you let off the gas it may or may not recover. If it stalls so far from the tests I have done if you never shut the key off it will never restart again. If you shut the key off and wait from 5 to 10 minutes it will all of a sudden restart normally like nothing ever happened. If you try to restart it immediately even if you shut the key off and back on it will not start.
When it does not start when I am attempting to start: Fuel pressure according to my gauge is between 55 and 60 psi. Inline spark tester shows that it is getting a spark. Engine sounds normal while cranking so in other words compression sounds normal. I have an LED test light rigged up showing when an injector fires, and it does show electrical activity going to the injector when it opens (flashes). Only clue is that it SEEMS dimmer when it wont start, but I have no clue if thats how it normally is on start up. Its only a slight difference from the brightness of a normal idle brightness. I have a snap on scanner hooked up, nothing that I know of looks abnormal in the data and it will not throw codes when this happens.
Parts I have changed or cleaned so far: Changed the fuel filter, crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition module, and MAF sensor. Cleaned the throttle body. When the car is working normally it runs strong, good power, smooth. Starts great normally.
After about 2,000 miles I'm averaging about 35.5 mpg on my Energy Savers, down from about 40 mpg on Michelin Harmony's. No change in driving habits. No change in tire pressure. Installer has checked them and doesn't see anything wrong. Balanced and aligned at installation. My 2008 is typically carries close to the maximum rated weight with passengers, dogs and/ or gear, hence the lower than average mpg. Michelin will exchange them, but doesn't consider them broken in until 5,000 miles, which I certainly won't reach within the 30 day guarantee period.
View 12 RepliesSaw a drop in mpg from 45mpg to 34mpg. Since I was way over 200,000 miles, I began to fear traction battery failure. Toyota looked over codes, did diagnostics, etc. and found nothing. They recommended and replaced the auxiliary battery, which made no difference. I fought with them on aux. battery replacement price since their costs had gone up 50% in two years. Mine was barely out of warranty. So what happened. I replaced the iridium plugs. Mileage jumped back up to 45mpg.
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