Volvo - V90 :: 1996 - Lurching And Stalling
Aug 12, 2015
I have a black, 1996 Volvo V90 that in the past month has begun acting up in an unsettling way.My car has begun to do this weird lurching thing when I have my foot on the brake. It sounds as if I am revving the engine, or as if the engine is trying to turn over. It is nearly always when my foot is on the brake pad, and the car will make the revving sound and try to lurch forwards- as if my foot was not firmly on the brake. When it first happened I even looked at my foot placement on the brake pad to make sure I wasn't accidentally pressing the gas with my shoe. It usually happens after it has been sitting in the unshaded parking lot at my summer internship, within the first 20 minutes of starting the car, and usually when my foot is on the brake (because I am slowing or stopped at a light) but it has happened a few times when I have begun to accelerate from a slow speed or stop as well. Recently, it did this while I was at a stoplight and it completely shut the engine off. It did this twice in that same drive home, but has not done it again in the past week (while it has kept doing the lurching thing and with much more frequency). I have explained my problem to several people and two of them mentioned that it could be the idler, I will not be able to take it into a mechanic until a week from today as I am out of state and cannot find a good Volvo mechanic in my area.
In the meantime, is there any information you can give me as to what is causing this? Or any possible preventative measures I can take until next week when I take it in? This problem is stressing me out every time I get into my car.
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I drive a 2006 Saturn Ion standard transmission with 93000 miles on it. Lately it has been randomly lurching, almost as if it is stalling. This happens when the car is in gear, not during shifting, and is not isolated to any particular gear. The check engine light will flash, but does not stay on and doesn't report a code. The local GM dealer replaced the ignition switch module (which they said failed and reported a code), but the lurching recurred within a couple days. I've had the car back to the dealership and they swear they've checked everything it could possibly be and everything looks good to them.
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I have a 2010 Volvo XC60 T6 AWD. I am encountering an issue with the transmission lurching, usually between 2nd and 3rd gear. While accelerating, the RPMs increase normally and when it tries to shift, it disengages 2nd, waits and the RPMs shoot up another 500-1000 before shifting into 3rd, giving the entire car a big lurch. It doesn't happen every time, but mostly when the when car hasn't been running for long. Another aspect is that the engine seems slightly underpowered when this occurs. The car runs great the rest of the time.
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I have a 1999 Jeep Cherokee Sport, 4.0L (6 cylinder) that has 128,000 miles on it. Within the last two months it has started lurching 1 to 3 times per week. It only lurches once but always when the engine is hot and when accelerating. The engine light does not come on. It also loses power for several seconds at other times. Lastly, it has stalled two times in three weeks when I am coming to a stop. The spark plugs and air filter were changed last week. The injectors were also cleaned.
I do not have the skills to fix it and am taking it to the dealership which is very expensive - thus the money drain. Any thoughts on what might be going on? Or is it better to just cut my losses and look for another car. I would really like to keep this car for another year because I am in graduate school but am not willing to continue with the money drain.
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I've been leasing my 2011 tiguan with last lease payment due next month. I have 63,000 miles on it and I love the car for its comfort, style and handling. So far only two problems, faulty intake manifold and bad fuse box both taken care of by the dealer free of charge. Recently however I've had two more undiagnosed problems that give me pause on continuing with a lease buyout.
1st problem, stalling when backing out of parking spaces. I've read on the forums this could be easily correctable with either change of fuel filter, low pressure fuel pump, or a poor electrical ground to the fuel module (?) in the back of the car. This does not concern me much.
2nd and most disturbing problem, in sport mode when punching the accelerator the transmission drops to the low gear but would not shift up to second, lurching the vehicle forward almost as if losing power. This happened on two occasions on one continuous trip I was taking. My worries are a bad tranny, however the regular drive and tiptonic mode functioned correctly and the following day the sport mode shifting worked fine, as I could not get repeat the problem. So I'm baffled.
I'm thinking more of a computer problem than a tranny but need to know soon whether this car should go back to the dealer. I'm scheduled to have it looked at by a foreign auto specialist but the lack of any malfunction lighting, codes or repeatability of the problem makes me unsure it will get diagnosed. Anyway, love the car and want to buy but can't afford a tranny replacement.
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Sometimes when you slow down for an exit and then step on the gas pedal, it lurches like it skipped a gear. Or sometimes is sounds like you're pressing the gas pedal while in neutral and then it kicks into gear with a lunging forward. What do I need to do?
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I have a Volvo 940 GLE (the second one of this kind I own) Car dies while driving, randomly, with check engine light coming on for a split second and then stalling. Feels as if the engine gets no fuel all of a sudden. Starts up again after 20sec-2,3 minutes, which is EXTREMELY annoying on the open road. Sometimes never happens for days, sometimes happens three times on a short drive.
Also, the car (purchased used) only holds about 7 gallons and has always idled low (runs rich), even though my mechanic couldn’t find anything unusual with the tank itself.
Engine codes that show up after the car stalls:
On socket 6: 214 (Perm. Magnet Generator), 144 (Fuel system load signal)
On socket 2: 221 (Lambda operation), 121 (mass airflow sensor), 131 (Ignition RPM sensor)
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1992 240. A couple days ago, the car started fine, but immediately started running erratically, feeling like it was about to stall out at lower speeds and then, whenever I gave it a lot of gas, it would stall out or nearly stall out.
Then, after about 5 minutes of driving and then stopping the car, it took about 15-20 seconds of turning over to start. After 10-15 minutes of driving, all seemed fine and it started totally fine after that a little later that day. Next day, same issue takes a lot to start, stalls when I press down on the gas a lot/suddenly from low gear.
Not sure if it has anything to do with it, but we live in Los Angeles and it's just now started to get "cold", with our first chilly day same day this started happening, on Monday.
Not sure if it's the air intake or a fuel injection issue....
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My ex drives our kid around Maui in a 1990 740 GLE (non turbo) and it's been stalling at the most inconvenient places and not starting for say, 20-30 minutes (then it seems to run fine, at least for another 15-20min. Our savant mechanic with an inherent drive to sleuth out problems is stumped as to why this intermittent stalling is going on. This seems to be happening when it is warmed up, first did it the after "acting funny" in 4th of July bumper to bumper traffic over in Lahaina, when it got to it's destination, it crapped out in the driveway.
Then, it stalled coming home the next day (fortunately right by beach park), a hot day, so I went out to get here a tow. Got rope on, it starts! Take rope off, realize I killed my battery in my Subie Outback while I was fiddling around with the 740, so she pulls it around to jump the Subaru, and it craps out again. So, we get someone else to jump Subie, I turn around to tow her and we go about a mile, tow rope snaps after crest of hill, but, 740 starts up and makes it back to Pa'ia (about 12 miles from that point).
Next day, mechanic looks at it, starts fine. No problem is reproduced, so hard to diagnose. Tonight, it stalled out again and started right back up a couple times during the day, then really stalled out turning onto the busy Hana Hwy from Baldwin Beach, thought I was going to tow her again, but 20 min later, it starts back up. So, for the second night in a row, I follow her home, but tonight it stalls out when making tight turn uphill to get to her neighborhood. So, I manage to tow her up and over to her place. (Accidentally took off front bumper when hook slipped, but I got it back on). And, of course, it starts right up.
Some background:
-fuel pump relay has been tested and is working.
-a couple weeks ago two of the injectors were replaced (or fixed, not sure) after we thought it was really going south (oil in plug cylinder, power loss).
-spark plugs replaced at same time injector issue was being assessed.
-fuel pump and filter underneath were replaced last year. (could it be other fuel pump inside tank?)
Every time I turn around this thing is stalling!
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So, my 94 Volvo 940 has about 315k miles on it and everything works great except during the intense heat of the summer. It drives fine for about an hour or two, but anything north of two hours with temps in the high 80s will cause the car to eventually stall - usually the engine just sounds like it's misfiring for a few seconds, then I lay on the gas to find that there's no acceleration and pull over where it will eventually shut down. I let it cool down for about 15 minutes, then it will start fine and drive for a little while before stalling again. It seems that the longer I let it cool down, the more time I get out of it.
I've tried replacing the fuel relay and noise suppression relay. I always just guessed it was the noise suppression relay because it is located right next to the engine, and I just thought the soldering would melt when it gets too hot, then come back together after cooling. But, maybe this is totally off. I also replaced the mass air flow sensor before, but it had slightly different symptoms, and those have not come back. My problem now only happens on longer drives in the summer.
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I have had this truck in 3 different shops and none of them could figure it out. The codes say misfire in cyl 2 and 5 bank 1 too lean and primary and secondary circuits malfunctioning for ignition coil. I've replaced the ign coil cap, plugs,plug wires, rotor, pcv, fuel pump, pick up coil, cat, o2 sensors and all sensors under the hood. Switched out all vacuum lines, cleaned the IAC and checked the pulse ring. The truck loses all power and either dies or backfires and regains power randomly. If I drive at night, it will stall and keep cranking when trying to restart. Usually have to let it sit for ten minutes for it to turn back over. Last night it backfired and stalled every 50 ft for over a mile. During the day, it revs up and down at idle by about 100 rpms.
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I am having a problem with my 1996 jeep grand cherokee. When I stop at a light and I am in drive, it wants to stall. If I am in park or neutral - no problem.
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i have just bought a 1988 740gl turbo and i was driving it the other day and when i came to a set of lights just as i stopped the car stalled on me then wouldn't start...
i left it for a hour or so came back and it started and i drove away and only went a few kms home.... what would this be i haven't driven it since!!
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I have a 1997 volvo 850 that has started intermittently stalling. It usually happens when i'm idling, like at a stop sign or traffic light, but recently it did it on the freeway. I have taken it 6 times to the mechanic (5 times to one and finally having learned my lesson the last time to a new one) and they say it is one of 4 things, but can't figure out which of those 4 things it is until it stalls on them. which it hasn't done. it acts perfectly when at the mechanic's and then they always give it back to me, only for it to happen again. the last time the car ran beautifully for 6 weeks before stalling out on me again....... oh, and once they replaced my fuel pump which seemed to work for a while.
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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So here's the deal, I bought this 93 Volvo 940 turbo station wagon about a month ago. It was stalling when I got it so I replaced the rotted hoses, fuel filter and cleaned the fuel system. The fuel pump was replaced a little before I got it. 2000 miles later it is stalling again at any speed mostly when the rpms go up and on hills. We are trying to replace the map sensor but can not find it anywhere under the hood. Does this car even have a map sensor and if so where is it located... We are also trying to clean the throttle sensor but cant seem to get it out without taking a bunch of other pieces apart, is there a trick to this. Is there anything else it could be...
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We own a 2006 Volvo S40 2.4i. Occasionally, when my daughter is driving at very low speeds, such as braking when approaching a stop sign or stop light, or when she is accelerating from a stop, the engine shuts off, forcing her to stop the vehicle, put the car in park, and restart the engine. Fortunately, the engine always restarts. Unfortunately, however, the problem only occurs intermittently. It may happen twice within an hour, and then not again for two or three weeks. As a result, the problem has not been duplicated by the dealer or any other repair shop. And, when plugged into the computer, none of the codes show up. So far the dealer has removed carbon from the throttle valve control unit and replaced the alternator. But the problem continues. Not sure what do to next as the dealer says he is baffled.
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My car has suddenly started stalling a lot. I can get it to start right up if I put the clutch to the floor and it will idle fine until I start coming up of the clutch even while it in neutral. At times it will idle in neutral then start to idle rough and stall. I can drive it in reverse but can't drive it forward except in first if i keep the clutch at a certain point and not release it all the way. However when I try other gears sometimes it's like it does't want to go stalls. What it might be?
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From the title post above, you can see that I have multiple issues with the car, or just maybe one causing all the symptoms. The initial problem is this.When the car starts, it starts up fine and has normal power. After driving for a few minutes, the car starts exhibiting the following symptoms.
1. If I step on the gas pedal hard and hold it, it sounds as if the car is drowning, the car loses power, then may back fire, then instantly, it regains power and accelerates. This is by keeping the pedal down.
2. If I feather the pedal, it doesn't lose power and accelerates decently but as soon as I begin to go up hill, it bogs down and does the drowning noise again.
3. I created a video showing this issue for my friend who typically familiar with these things. Here is the link ; [URL] .... In the video, the car is idling fine but when I throttle it, it begins to drown, then just picks up right away for no apparent reason.
4. Just two days ago, the car will not start after it's been running for a while. If I let it sit, it starts up again.
-Could my catalytic converter be bad and therefore it somehow creates back pressure after the car warms up?
-Would it be a fuel injection problem? I put fuel injection cleaner in the tank and it seemed to run a little better.
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We have a 1996 Nissan Quest - but only 72000 miles (we bought it from our daughters' 90 year old piano teacher who only used it for camping trips with 45K miles 3 years ago) I have an intermittent stalling problem. Only at low speed, sometimes going up hill or into a turn, but it's also happened going straight on, I get a compete loss of power. Still have steering, (not power) so I wrestle the beast over, and it restarts right away. No check engine light. This has happened about 6 times. Not low gas level, usually 1/2 + tank. No codes.
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96 grand cherokee 4.0L- Randomly stalls or maybe I should say it randomly operates. Hot or cold it doesn't matter. Sometimes it will restart sometimes not, This has happened before and I replaced the computer- twice. It works fine for a while but I end up here again. What could be frying the computers. Is there a way to check the computer to see if it is malfunctioning?
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