Windstar :: 1998 - Moderate / Slight Jerk When Stopping
Jan 6, 2007
My windstar has for a while been making moderate/slight jerks when stopping. It tends to happen typically just before coming to a complete stop, although sometimes it happens during low-speed turns when coasting (also sometimes have the issue where it shifts downshifts harshly after a "sweeping turn," as mentioned in one of the windstar TSBs). The RPMS don't appear to visibly drop when it occurs (although the tach in the 'stars seems a little slow sometimes). The only trouble code present is P0133 for the Bank 1 downstream O2 sensor slow response.
Also, it tends to worsen when the car is warm. The jerking is less severe when the engine is cool, and tends to worsen after the car warms up. Also it sometimes almost feels like the jerk occurs in two stages. I do not believe it is the TCC solenoid failing to disengage, due to the fact that it even happens if I get up to 15mph for a hundred feet, and then stop.
Probably unrelated, but the car also tends to run rough for 10-15 seconds after starting the first time if left sitting for a few days.
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I have a 2012 GLS automatic with 78,000 miles on it. Till now I never had any issues but recently I started having issues with starting the car. Its taking few tried to get it started. This happened 3 times and I got it checked at 2 places and they said everything (battery, starter, alternator) looks OK and they may not be able to find the issue until car breaks down as issue looks intermittent.
Later one time, I was driving on local road and car kept moving but I felt a small jerk like engine is stopping or gear shifting...and RPM fell to 0 but car kept moving. I stopped on the shoulder and turned off the ignition. After few trials, car started again and moved fine. This same issue happened today morning on the fwy when I am driving at 70 mph. It started after few trials.
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Stock 1.8T 5spd 2001 discs all around.
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I'm new to Lexus ownership and have recently purchased an 08 certified LS 460 L with the air ride suspension. It's a phenomenal car, I'm now a convert to the brand. One small thing I noticed though is a slight jiggle or vibration coming to the steering wheel at moderate speeds. It is very dependent on the road surface, Seems to dissipate on the highway. Alignment was checked before delivery and feels fine and the tires themselves feel balanced. It's not upsetting, I'm just curious if this is something normal to the air ride suspension. Other than this the car is an absolute gem with only 35,000 miles.
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When I am driving about 40 in 5th gear and let off the throttle, there is a slight jerk in the engine. Is it a loose motor mount?
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Sometimes when I go into reverse it feels like it pops into reverse and it doesn't go into reverse smoothly but sometimes it does go into reverse smoothly.
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1999 Windstar 3.8. I heard a slight squeak noise fron front end, when low speed driving. Sounds not really horrible, but annoying, and I wish to find out the real cause before it turn worse. It's not easy to describe what the noise sounds like. I can hear it at low speed, seems not relates to steering. At higher speed, it disappears, not sure really gone or covered by other noise. And, when I just parked, and kick the tire, the same noise can be reproduced. But when I tried to kick next day, no more noise.
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I bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
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I have a 2000 Corolla CE I bought recently that had 45K miles on it (it has a 4spd auto with O/D).
When accelerating from a stop, I usually take it very slow and I notice that there is a slight jerk most of the time.....it's sort of like I can feel the gears engage. This doesn't happen all the time and it doesn't seem to happen if I accelerate fast.
I did a transmission drain & fill with Royal Purple MaxATF (the drain & fill was only once).
1) Is this normal for this transmission? Also, is there a "pan drop" for this transmission? The mechanic only removed the drain bolt...he did not do the pan drop.
2) During my work commute, I'm in a lot of rush hour traffic where it moves for short distances at 5-10mph. It will shift from 1st to 2nd a lot of times...is better to just put the car in 1st (L) gear? My mechanic said no because it will heat up the transmission faster.
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I can 100% eliminated the issue if I shift the car into neutral before I slow down. So it has to be the the transmission not downshifting smoothly. Done it from day one. I even replaced my rotors and brakes so I know that isn't it.
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About three weeks ago I noticed a slight shudder in my 2008 Ford Taurus with app. 75,000 miles (automatic). It did not come from the steering wheel, but the car itself seemed to be shaking, but only slightly. Like someone who's had too much caffeine holding out an unsteady hand kind of shudder. It was going in for an oil change anyway, so I had my mechanic check it out, even thought the shudder was gone the next day. It came back, for a few moments while the mechanic was driving. He couldn't tell what was causing it, but said not to worry.
Two days later when I was in the car for the first time that day the car jerked when I put it in reverse out of park. I checked the transmission fluid, and, sure enough, it was about a quart low. All symptoms went away. I took it back in to double check that there was no leak and that everything seemed in good working order. The car was given the all-clear.
Then this week the shudder returned, again, only sometimes. It doesn't seem related to temperature, distance driven, or weather. And the maddening thing is that it only does it sometimes. I checked the transmission fluid again and it is still in the safe zone.
Two days ago, after being parked overnight, the car shook very noticeably for about ten seconds the first time I switched it out of park, first into reverse, then into drive. This was different to the other shudder (I know, seriously). This was a shake, like the bass in a super strong stereo was cranked. Then it stopped and the car drove just fine. I parked it for twelve hours then switched the gears again. Nothing out of the ordinary happened.
Today it had no issue when I first switched gears, but while I drove (for about a half an hour) that original slight shudder was there. This time at all speeds, not just low ones. I went where I needed to go, drove it again about four hours later and it was fine. No shudder, nothing and this drive went through road work with stop and go traffic as well as some time on a highway at speeds up to 55mph. I drove it another time after that, and again, no symptoms. Finally, I drove to the store. The shudder had returned. I parked, shopped for about 15-20 minutes, returned to the car, and it hesitated to accelerate as I pulled out of the spot. It did not jerk or seem to try to catch up. It simply delayed, but accelerated smoothly.
I parked again and let it rest for about 10 minutes, started it up, and no trouble at all. Even that weird shudder was gone. I think this car is toying with me. I'm taking it back to the mechanic, but the trouble is that it doesn't always have these symptoms. I drove it Thursday on a two hour trip and back again with no issues at all. This might make it difficult for the mechanic to diagnose, but at least it's a guy I trust. There are no warning lights on, no smells (unless they are faint as I don't smell things well), and no strange sounds.
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I got off the highway today and was at a very long light, but enough time to feel my car making slight jerking movements and i saw the car raise a little over an inch.
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I recently got my 09 ISF and had a few questions pertaining to some noises I'm hearing. Of course I'm hearing the ticking from the motor but until it causes any issues I can live with it.. My real questions deal with
A: When I go over a bump such as a pot hole cover or something that makes my suspension articulate quickly at low speed, I hear a rattling noise from what seems like the suspension / hub. If it makes any difference in on 2012 shocks and soft springs. (my extended warranty is kicking in soon so I hope that it doesn't play a roll in it as I'm sure they will be quick to deny it)
B: When I am coming to a stop or slowing down and the car shifts into first on its own (I think only in manual mode) there is a clunk / slight jerk sometimes... It may be coming from the rear end? Is it some type of locking or unlocking that's going on?
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I have a 2005 hyundia elantra, i just recently noticed mainly while I was driving on the freeway or at higher speeds when I let my foot off the pedal my vehicle would slightly jerk and quickly decrease speed for a second, I then noticed my engine light was on. I stopped at a free computer test auto shop (o' reiley's ) and the test stated trouble code p1505 code definition - idle charge actuator signal - low of coil 1.
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I have a 1998 Windstar which just stopped shifting from first to second or third. I still have 1st and Reverse gear but no 2nd or 3rd. Feels like vehicle goes to neutral.
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My 98 Windstar Limited has air suspension in the back. Lately, it would be sitting low in the back before starting it up in the morning. The compressor would pump it up as soon as you fired up the van. And the rest of the day would be fine. The other day, the warning light for the air suspension came on, and the compressor has not worked since. Fuses and power connections all seem okay. OBD codes C1770, C1790, C1818 and C1850 were in the system.
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I was removing the camshaft position sensor and synchronizer unit on a 1998 ford windstar gl with 3.8L and the synchronizer bar feel off. The bar went back into the slot and i cannot get to it. How can i retrieve the bar? I tried using a magnet. Can I access the bar from the oil pan if i remove it?
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The transmission in our '98 Ford Windstar has failed....sometimes. I went to back it out of the garage and the motor would rev, but no movement of the vehicle. I put it in drive and had the same results. When I put it in 2 it would move. Only in 1 or reverse is it dead. I changed the transmission fluid and filter (Fluid did not looked burned) and it ran fine. After a couple of days, same symptoms. After sitting about a week, I started it up and it acted fine. I drove it about a block. When I attempted to start from a stop sign...no movement. I put it in 2 and drove away.
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So my 1998 Toyota Corrolla jumps and jerks after I switch gears. It only does it sometimes and I have seemed to narrow down that it does it mostly when the air conditioning is on and between 3rd and 4th gear if I don't have the RPMs just right. There is no smell nor any mettalic grinding. I'm thinking it's something to do with the transmission.
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My wife has a 1998 Windstar 3.0
Prior to going out yesterday, I noticed that the van seemed kind of 'jumpy' when idling - the timing was a bit sticky and inconsistent and kept seeming to try and right itself. I stuck the accelerator down and it ran perfect when it was getting gas but started 'stagering' again when I took it off.
So my wife went out to walmart - a 30 min drive (we are in the country) - and all was good till she was turning the corner into the parking lot and the engine stalled. It was your standard stall - power steering went out but all other electrics kept going etc etc.
She sat there for a minute - put it in park - then fired it right back up again. After running into walmart, she just drove home as fast as possible to reduce the length of time it had to happen again.....
So while there are, Im sure, a plethora of possible issues - I was wondering about the IAC value? How could that be responsible for the parking lot though - doesn't it only act when the car is stationary?
The sort of thing was happening about 3 months ago, and I ran seafoam through the fuel - which seemed to work for a while.
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