Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 1999 - Jerking And Stopped After Doing Roughly 50 Kms
Mar 20, 2016
I recently took my vitz 1999 for servicing. It came back with problem. After doing roughly 50Km it started jerking and stopped all together.. i took it to the same mechanic who then eventually tracked the problem to the engine temperature sensor. When the sensor switch is in place, the car stops every 4Km and has to be restarted. However when the sensor switch is removed from the engine block the car runs without stopping. If i place back the sensor switch the car stops every 4 km . I have changed virtually every part but problem persists.
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I have a Toyota Yaris '07 ... The car has been running pretty rough and ready over the last few weeks... During idle, it started rattling & shaking pretty hard... this progressed with the add-on feature of changing revs during an otherwise steady drive..... It chose the (in)opportune time of driving with our 3-year-old son, grumpy at that time, down heavily trafficked busy roadways during the holidays and stalled 3 x times.... It is in the garage/service center for the 2nd time ... They are stumped. They've checked air, fuel mix, filters, injectors, spark plugs, etc., basics. Computer diagnostics show nothing (briefly showed fault at Cylinder #4 but then that changed and now showing nothing). Toyota Technical is (apparently) stumped. They are talking about needing to order a new computer from Japan (minimum $1200 just for the part).
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I have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
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I have a 2002 echo 1.3 vvti - will it has been running great and has 200000km on clock . However today i started it it ran for about 1 min then i heard a beeping from under the bonnet, the engine then stopped. The car will start and run for less than a sec then die. will not run no matter how much i play with the throttle .
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I have an incredibly reliable 03 Echo, manual trans that has never had any issues starting or running well. TODAY, I started it and about a block down the road is sputtered and stopped. The engine is turning over powerfully when I turn the key and it tries to start for a couple seconds then just turns over. It's like it's not getting any fuel.
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The other day I was leaving work and I switched on the ac. I heard an audible popping noise and the air immediately stopped being cold. I pulled over and popped the hood, it smelled like freon and I'm sure it was mixed with compressor oil as there is oil stains all around the compressor now. Did I blow my compressor? Is there a blow off valve that could have been tripped? The compressor is not kicking on now, I don't know if it is blown or this is due to all the freon spraying out? It had been squealing on startup for a little while, I assumed it was a belt.... 2002 echo....
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I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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I am trying to find out how to disable the DRL on my 2008 yaris RS without loosing my fog lights, and if it could be possible to get the fog lights on when using the day lights.
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Back in September '12, I was on the freeway and merging quickly into the fastlane/passing lane on the freeway-- third gear, near 80mph. Going for fourth gear was a brief misshift into second that apparently happens often with cars with the 1NZ-FE.
Because of that over-rev, I've since had an annoying tick that goes with the engine revs. It's been going strong regardless for over 10,000 miles, but it's frustrating nonetheless. Compression seems fine on all cylinders, and according to a shop I'm not primed to believe, the shims for the valves are fine and these engines "always sound like that." My video begs to differ.
For those who've maybe had the same sound, what's your take? I've heard of stretched timing chains/chain slack, water pump, clutch issues, etc., but want to narrow it down.
You get the contrast here, and toward the end I nearly over-lap the shots to hear them closer together. [URL] ....
Under the hood/car. [URL] ....
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I've got error P0440 on my 2001 Echo about a week ago and cleared it, then I got it again today. It happened while driving, I was switching from 4th to 5th and the check engine lit up.
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When I turn the a/c on, sometimes the compressor engages and sometimes it does not. When it does, I feel the engine's idle change and out comes very cold air. After a few minutes or longer, no more cold air but the fan is still blowing. If I quickly turn the a/c off and then back on again this seems to jump start the compressor and poof, out comes the cool air again. Sometimes it will begin producing cool air again on its own but most of the time I have to resort to turning it off, then back on. I don't believe I have a leak because otherwise no cool air would be emitted at all or the quality of the cool air would be poor.
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I suspect that the 2006 Yaris rear hatch cylinder would work on my 2004 echo, so I got it from a u-pull. However it seems to be a bit gummed up with something, and I want to take it apart (far enough to rekey, basically).
I've got the spring clip off the back, and took out the back plate with the coil spring. I've cleaned up the metal cylinder and removed the spring at the back, but I don't know how to take the whole thing apart to clean the insides.
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I am trying to disable the drl on my gf's 2004 echo but I can't seem to find the drl relay box. its not the same as the yaris cause I tried looking after I saw a link here but where it is?
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I inherited my stepson's 2004 Echo. It's in great shape still aside from the fact it won't start. There's been a new battery, alternator and spark plugs put in recently. There are no codes coming up when I plug in the reader I have. So what is happening is that when I try to start it - it sounds like it almost wants to start but just doesn't fire up. I'm wondering if it's something to do with the fuel? There's no indicator lights that come up either.
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