Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2008 - Replaced Battery And Alternator Still Not Working
Nov 25, 2012
I just recently replaced my alternator and battery in my 08 Toyota yaris and it's still not holding a charge. My blinkers, radio, and heating and air won't come on , also my wheel is hard to turn and in order to shift gears I have to push down the white button near the shift stick. I'm so confused as to what else could be going wrong and my mechanic can't seem to figure things out my last resort is the dealership but I'm thinking that would be expensive
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Long story short, I had to replace an alternator and I thought while I was at the shop already, and might as well get both belts replaced. (The Echo has a belt for power steering and a serpentine belt). After the shop replaced theses 3 thing. I drove off, alternator worked, belts didn't make noise. Then a week later, I got the infamous squeaky belt sounds while starting up the car. I've been trying to track down this sounds for a while now. And I found out it only come on when the engine is cold and when I'm driving with the engine cold.
I promise you that my belts made no noise before the belt change. Is it possible the shop didn't put the belt correctly? Also, I'm not that mechanically inclined, what causes belt the squeak anyways?
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My Echo's factory radio started losing sound randomly and coming back on when I hit bumps. I changed it out for an actual Echo factory radio from my girlfriend's car and that one is doing the same thing. The really odd part is that now it will sometimes cut out when I turn the wheel slightly or hit the brake pedal. I checked, no wires are dragging on the steering column or tangled in the brake pedal lever.
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The lights were left on and ran battery down. Tried to jump start but would not start. Installed new battery, won't start, won't turn over, no click, nothing. Lights and dash board lights work. Changed starter relay, checked/changed fuses, took starter out and tested it 4 times at Autozone. Starter is good. Checked switch under clutch, it's good. Checked ignition with voltmeter, checks good. Checked fusable links with voltmeter. Checks good. Why won't this car start! I can push it off and it runs fine, that's how I got it home. I'm getting 12 volts to the starter.
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Have 155,000 miles on my 2000 Echo, just replaced O2 sensors (probably needlessly, I see now) before I found a loose hose at air filter area, which when I connected it, caused the CE light to finally go out (P0171 code originally)...already cleaned old, then ordered a new, MAF before I found the loose hose, so think I'll go ahead and install the new MAF anyway...do I need to disconnect the battery to install it? Afraid the darned CE light will come back on, but guess I can again drive it awhile and hope it will go out when the computer stuff resets itself.
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I have a problem with the air conditioning. It stops working when the car is in idle or driving below 40kl.
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I checked the archives and found nothing of value for my particular problem. My wife has a 2008 Yaris, and we can't get the trunk to open with the key. The only way to get in is with the trunk release lever just inside the drivers door.
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I have a 2001 Echo sedan that was given to me. It has sat unused for several months. The radio and Acc lights worked, but the car wouldn't start and the battery would drain very quickly when not in use. It sat for a few more weeks, and then I replaced the battery, now the radio will not turn on at all (everything else is fine).
I checked all the fuses, and they are good (though, not the ones on the radio itself). I will be replacing this with an aftermarket stereo anyway, I just want to make sure it is the radio that's the problem, and not something else in the car. From reading, it seems that it could be an anti-theft function, for which a code would need to be entered to unlock the stereo, but nothing is displayed on the screen at all when the car is on, not "SAFE" nor "SEC". There may be a certain button combo I need to hold in order to bring up the code prompt, but what those are, and the ones I have tried haven't worked. The radio is just an AM/FM Model #: A51408 (image attached).
So do you think I only need the code, something else might be wrong, or the radio just coincidentally died? No mention of a code is made in the manual.
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When i purchased the yaris ZR they had none with the Suna Audio and navigation system so they said they will ship the device in and then install it when they finally had it.... So I was driving this one around with the default device in or awhile. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listen for a while. Everything was working fine, audio, messaging, calling and listening to podcasts ad audiobooks through apps on my phone. I am using the Samsung Galaxy S5 Everything has been updated and using all relevant updated software.
When they said it was finally in, i brought my car in and after a few issues and shipping the wrong parts I finally got it. (I was driving the latest Corolla in the meantime)
Bluetooth is cutting out every 2 minutes (and halfway through at about 1 minute there is a glitchy/pause/lag) .... It keeps saying something like "Connection with the mobile telephone has been disconnected" and my audio stops playing. It takes about 15 seconds to reconnect. And then i have to push the Audio power button twice to get back to listening to my media. Phone is fully charged, and plugged in. There are no distractions from anything else (The Original old device that came with it never did this). You can't play audio via USB with an android device on either this one or the old one so that option is out.
Messaging is not working - Worked fine in the old/original device on the Yaris and the Corollas I was using, when i got a text, it beeped and read it out - and i could quick reply with automated messages (if the car was not moving). Now, when I try to load them a message just stays on this screen for about 5 minutes then disappears - nothing happens. "Retrieving messages please wait....."
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In January I had taken my car in for an oil change. About a Month later my check engine light comes on. I pull over and there is no oil cap. Why the light hadn't come on before then is beyond me. I also park on grass so didnt notice it. I took it to advanced auto to see what the code for the light was and it said that the engine was running lean. Is this connected? and if so how? I am driving a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback
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I have a 2008 Yaris and the handbrake freezes when engaged (I set it after parking but then can't get it to release, leaving me stranded). Is this just poor design? I managed to force it to disengage with a screwdriver but I now no longer use the handbrake/parking brake for fear of this happening again.
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris Hatchback with only 60,000 KMs.
I have been having a lot of problems with this cars ABS and brakes. For a few months now, the ABS Light and "!" will come on and off throughout my drive to work and home. Also, sometimes when I hit the brakes it makes a LOUD grinding noise and when I'm holding down the brakes the car doesn't stop as fast, it kind of like skids. Now, I've noticed that this noise only occurs when the ABS light is OFF. When the ABS light and brake light come on, NO noise what so ever.
I've gone to multiple mechanics and replaced almost everything you can name for brakes (pads, drum, rotor, etc.). I've also tried replacing the ABS sensor wires, but still I am experiencing the same problems. It's really frustrating because the noise only happens sometimes, and of course it never makes the noise when the mechanics in the car with me.
I've made a video of the noise it makes, you can check it out here ......
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I have a 2008 Toyota Yaris. A few weeks ago my driver's side rear door stopped unlocking with the button on the key and the button on the driver's side door panel. About 2 weeks ago it started to work again, but just for 1 day; then it went right back to not working. About a week ago my passenger side door did the exact same.
I looked up the issue online and found that people with 07 RAV4s. An owner a RAV4 took the actuator in the door apart and found that the copper contacts had charred. After scraping with extremely fine sand paper and steel wool, and then reassembly of the door, the lock worked.
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I have a 2000 VW Golf 2.slow. I have done some research from other threads but I'm wondering if mine is a simpler fix then testing all the wiring. After taking the car to Auto-Zone and having my battery and alternator tested they said the alternator was the problem. I had to wait a day to get paid to buy the alternator so I had them charge the battery. After I put the battery back in and started her up I got a flashing e-brake light, ABS light and no A/C. My A/C clutch compressor isn't kicking in either. I checked my brake fluid and it's fine as well.
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When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
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My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
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Was looking at some new side skirts for my 4d 2000 toyota echo but mine currently has the black plastic trim going completely around it. Are these easily removed? Like, are they clipped on?
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I'm trying to remove the tail light units from my 2002 Toyota Yaris.
I've removed the central nut from the inside but the light unit won't budge. There are two other protuberances coming through the metal body work which are a plastic spigot, lower left of the metal bolt, and rubber type insert further away to the upper right.
I'm also presuming that there is some stiction with the gasket.
Even with the nut removed the outside of the unit has zero movement while the inside has a slight amount of flex.
Am I missing something?
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know the torque value for a 2009 yaris oil pan bolts? In another forum somebody quoted a value of 6.6 foot pounds, that seems too small and the wrong value to me.
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Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
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My car squeaks when I pull the shifter down from 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th. What is causing that?
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