Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Changing Drive And Power Steering Belts?
Sep 11, 2011
info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
Long story short, I had to replace an alternator and I thought while I was at the shop already, and might as well get both belts replaced. (The Echo has a belt for power steering and a serpentine belt). After the shop replaced theses 3 thing. I drove off, alternator worked, belts didn't make noise. Then a week later, I got the infamous squeaky belt sounds while starting up the car. I've been trying to track down this sounds for a while now. And I found out it only come on when the engine is cold and when I'm driving with the engine cold.
I promise you that my belts made no noise before the belt change. Is it possible the shop didn't put the belt correctly? Also, I'm not that mechanically inclined, what causes belt the squeak anyways?
View 2 Replies
I have taken this problem to the dealer 3 times in the last 6 months and they claim not to notice any vibration or rattle. However, whenever I am at a stop sign or stop light with the car in Drive (automatic trans), a loud vibration sound can be heard and also felt in the steering column and the brake pedal. As soon as I press on the gas pedal again, the vibration goes away. The only other way to stop the noise is to place the car into Neutral. What might be causing this? Apparently, the noise is not audible outside of the vehicle since none of the techs at Toyota were able to hear a rattle or vibration.
View 14 Replies
Okay, the code I am getting is a "Misfire on Cylinder 3" code. The car hesitates in REVERSE and DRIVE only, not in neutral.
This is what I have already done: checked all wiring (fixed a bare wire), did an ignition coil swap (#3 to #2) to see if it was actually the coil (no change), replaced all the spark plugs (no change), replaced the MAF sensor (no change).
A shop I tok it to said it was the ignition coil, and that all the spark plugs needed to be replaced. They did not know that I already replaced all the plugs and, having already done the swap with another coil (and getting no change), I find it hard to believe anything they say.
I am leaning toward an O2 sensor issue or a fuel filter issue (but these cars are supposed to have lifetime fuel filters and that is not a job I ant to do if I don't have to).
I was also told that the "green thing" in this photo might be bad. What that is and/or why it would be bad. it does move a little, but so do all the others.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2010 Toyota Yaris four door. When I am stopped while in drive, the front left part of the vehicle rattles, sounds like it is around the front driver-side tire. If I change the car into Neutral, Reverse, or Park it will go away, but Drive or any of the lower gears will cause the rattle. I have only had the car for about 2 months and it has been doing this for a couple weeks.
View 5 Replies
2005 Echo auto 120,000 km
I have intermittent misfiring (a few seconds every couple minutes) and get the codes 301 and sometimes 304/300. I cant drive out of my driveway without a sputter and when I turn into a parking spot or make a quick stop the problem is magnified. I initially suspected a wiring / coil issue but here are my results:
Shuffled coil packs. (1/2 & 3/4)
Shuffled fuel injectors.
Good compression.
Swapped ECM.
Inspected wiring harness.
Goof EFI / cutoff relays.
None of these led to any change in the codes (300, 301, 304)
Yesterday I swapped the fuel pump and it worked flawlessly for an hour of city driving (first time in two months) ... then the issue returned as before.
View 2 Replies
Why would my 2009 Yaris suddenly jerk to the left while doing 60-65 mph? It would jerk hard only once, but did it 3 times within a few minutes tonight and once earlier today.
View 1 Replies
My wife's 2003 Echo has had some persistent issues. We've replaced the right front wheel bearing 3 times now, and the driver side front once.
The current issue is steering wheel vibration. It's hardly noticeable at 40mph, but gets serious around 60mph.
Some things I noticed when I took it for a spin today:
The right front wheel makes a clunk-squeak sort of sound on rough road. It has a looser feel at those times. Sort of like an old truck. Not a peep out of the driver's side.
The steering wheel vibration is not changed by shifting to neutral (it's an automatic). The vibration increases with speed, and is rougher at 50mph coming down on a coast from 60 than it is accelerating up from 40.
The vibration is reduced with slight braking and stops with heavy braking. In turns where the weight of the car is shifted to the right side, the vibration is reduced or stops. When the weight is shifted to the left (driver) side, there is no effect or it gets worse.
Uphill seems to be worse than downhill.
The car does not drift to either side when the steering wheel is released when not vibrating, and doesn't have much wander even with the wheel vibrating.
It does not clunk or squeal when turning or braking.
The mileage is 115k.
View 3 Replies
For the last few months, I have been chasing down steering problems. Alignment, end links, ball joints... and now, humming. Every time I take a turn that requires more than 1/4 turn of the steering wheel, the car hums. It wasn't very noticeable at first, but over the last week it has gotten much louder.
I have topped off my PS fluid and replaced my belts, but this has not solved the issue. Before I start replacing a pump and/or a steering rack.
View 3 Replies
This happens many times especially when I am parking parallel and need to take reverse frequently. The steering kind of jams, then vibrates and then the car engine is off. I need to restart every time this happens. This is causing fear to drive the car on highways.
View 5 Replies
When I turn the steering wheel on the spot without the car moving, I get a popping noise which sounds like its coming from just behind the steering wheel. It sometimes happens when im turning and reversing out of my driveway. No noise coming from engine bay or wheels.
View 2 Replies
i have a 200 echo when i got it it would buck and loose power almost (but never) stall... then pick back up fast... driving 10 miles could result in whiplash it starts and idles fine not a skip... after looking though some online threads (btw: no CEL) i changed the air filter looked for vacuum leaks cleaned the MAF little better but still crappy changed the spark plugs again a little better but not even close to ok..
NOW CEL is on says too rich... changed MAF Much improvement but still bucks i went to toyota dealer they said no signal from air/fuel sensor.. changed it still no improvement but the fuel mileage is way better still bucks and sputters but is better at low speeds if i turn off the O/D and when the blue temp light is on, which i think does the same thing as turning off the O/D
if its idling no skips no vibration raise RPM's and it gets rough to a point raise it further and it keeps getting worse. I have a clogged filter or a TPS issue.
View 4 Replies
My 2002 Echo Sportivo is losing power on hills,which is bad news as live in a hilly district. If I don't get a run up i.e lights change it's 40km/h all the way with my foot to the floor and lots of angry drivers behind me. Apart from this runs well?
View 1 Replies
I am looking to troubleshoot the problem I am having with my 2000 Toyota Echo Automatic with 253,000 Kms
Engine will at times bog down, loose power and skip, usually giving it more gas will straighten it out. Car is now stalling after driving and stopping unless you rev the rpms higher. The car will start in my driveway and idle with no problems however sometimes it will skip after a few minutes.
Codes I keep getting is P0171 Fuel too lean bank 1 and P0301 cylinder 1 misfire (for cylinder 3 before we cleared the codes)
Here is what I have done as I am lucky enough to have a 2000 Echo so we could switch some parts for testing:
Switched the coils, spark plugs and MAF sensor (didn't look dirty) What concerns us is when you unplug coil 1 from the engine there is no change in the idle (as there is a difference when unplugging the other coils)
We have checked for vacuum leaks but cannot find any.
Should also mention the engine is not overheating or burning oil.
View 7 Replies
I have a toyota yaris d4d (2002). My engine light comes on, I lose power on throttle but engine will still idle. I turn engine off for a few minutes, then restart, I then carry on driving as normal as if nothing has happened. This happens every 2 weeks. Error code is p1121(accelerator pedal position sensor range/performance problem). How to rectify it ...
View 1 Replies
Driving on friday night, started to hear at idle the car rpms wavering. Drove home fine with no issues other than at idle. Then Sunday, drove the vehicle, and sometimes had issues when accelerating, seemed to misfire and lose power. Then when driving that day it died completely and wouldn't start. It turns, but no firing.
Got it towed to my place, ran the codes, showed 1300, 1305, 1310, and 1315. All to do with ignition coils. Did a quick spark check, and no spark at any cylinders. I figured it would be weird that all 4 would go at the same time, so i replaced the ECM instead. Still no spark. Where to go next? Also the car does have an immobilizer in it...that could be causing it to malfunction?
View 3 Replies
I was driving home and I lost power in my engine. When I gave it gas you can hear it miss fire and loose power I got it home and it starts and idles but not smooth. What should I be looking into at this point? I'll check the coils and plugs now but I'm not sure after that. I heard about a bad ecu but it still runs so idk.
View 7 Replies
My car now has a little over 370,000 miles on her. The other day I noticed a hesitation while accelerating, like an instant loss of power/ jerk. It didn't do it much at first and the higher the RPM's the less it seemed to do this. Once I got the car up to 60/70 mph it was pretty much unnoticeable.
What it was. Thought maybe a vacuum leak. Nope. Maybe a bad TPS or CPS (didn't end up checking those), Thought maybe a bad injector or O2 sensor (didn't end up checking those either). I did try some fuel injector cleaner though but saw no change. I had a feeling it had to be a sensor or something because the motor itself runs great other than the intermittent misfire.
So I drive it in to work this morning. (1 hour drive each way) and aside from the minor hesitation/bucking/jerking while accelerating, everything went pretty smooth so long as I had the car up to highway speeds. So I get off from work and start driving home. The problem seemed to have disappeared completely for the first 3 or 4 miles, then all of a sudden it started up again. Only this time it had gotten much worse.
I could no longer get the car to go over 70mph and when I came to a stop the car sounded like it wanted to die (but never did). It took forever from a complete stop to get past all of the sputtering and hesitation/missing to get the car up to speed. It would keep cutting in and out (the motor bogging down, then gaining normal power for a second or two and so on and so forth). So I decide to take it to a shop to see if they can diagnose it.
The guy hooks up his code reader and looks at the car for a little bit out in the parking lot. All he could do was suggest to change the spark plugs and said that that was where he would start. So I went ahead and listened to what he said about the spark plugs (even though I knew there wasn't anything wrong with them because I had just changed them about a year ago). So I'm changing them out and when I take out cylinder 1's coilpack I notice it's wet. It seems somehow water or moisture had gotten down into there. So I dried everything off and changed the plug (the old one looked fine but I changed it anyway) and I went ahead and changed out all the rest of the plugs too (they all looked fine as well)
So after seeing the water around the #1 spark plug and coil pack, The injectors are right in front of there, so I decided to take the plug off the injector and take a look.
Sure enough, I took the plug off of the injector right in front of the #1 spark plug (far left spark plug) and wouldn't you know it, it had water down inside of it. I pulled the plug off of the injector next to it and it had water in it too (but not as much). How water could have gotten down in there but it did. I took a Q-tip and used it to dry up all the water down in there. Put everything back together and took it for a spin and everything was back to normal.
View 14 Replies
Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
View 1 Replies
When ever my car is parked on a slope for 5 min I go to drive it and the car spudders when I accelerate.. when i leave it on flat ground after its perfect again.
View 5 Replies
My wife's 2003 Echo is sitting at 255 000 KM's (Canada) and has hardly had a days problem.However yesterday tried starting and completely dead-not battery as almost new. Ignition makes clicking noise-lights/radio etc all working.Called the BCAA ( Vancouver) the guy tapped with a pole on something in the engine and voila she started. He said something about the starter or starter solenoid-today again the car is dead. Will take it to the mechanic on Monday but how do I get it started meanwhile ? what did the BCAA guy do and what did he tap on ?
View 2 Replies
