Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Removing Toyota Echo Gear Shift Console?
Jan 14, 2014
how to remove the gear shift console on a 2001 TOYOTA ECHO?
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Jan 14, 2014
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Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Echo Won't Shift To Overdrive
I have a 2001 Toyota Echo with automatic trans. and it won't shift into 4th. or overdrive when it's colder out. I know they're designed to stay in 3rd. gear till it gets warmed up some for 2 or 3 miles. But this morning it was down to 6 above in northern Mn. and I took it on the hiway and drove it for 53 miles and it never did go into 4th. or overdrive. It was OK last winter even in 20 to 30 below.
View 6 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo MT Hard Shift Cold?
When cold and not running, the shift lever sticks especially in 1st or 2nd and lacks that springy return to center. When cold running, Almost impossible to get in and out of 1st and 2nd, 3rd-5th stiff but manageable. After 5-7 min of driving, Shifts like butter. Tranny fluid has been replaced with amsoil syn.
This wasn't a progressive condition, shifted great one day (approx 2 weeks ago), next morning the fun began!
Is there anything other the control cable that cause the extremely sticky shifting when the car is off?
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: Toyota Echo Blowing Hot Air When AC Is On
Just bought little Echo and it's blowing hot air when the ac is on if I turn the ac off with the selector in the blue it's still hot. I used the gauge off a old ac recharger can and its showing the right amount of Freon and the compressor clutch is spinning. I am really wanting to fix it cheap , since I got it for 1200.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Toyota Echo - No Reverse Light
I'm troubleshooting my sons 2000 Echo with a manual transmission. No reverse light. Very puzzling? The red wire with blue stripe in the trunk area is always hot. Makes no difference if the shifter is in reverse gear or not. Yet, the reverse lamps don't come on. I removed both bulbs and tested them at the battery using jumpers. They both come on. I have not gone under the car yet. My question is: does this car have a neutral start switch, and a back up light switch. If yes, which switch is feeding the other? Any pictures of where these switches are located? My guess is that the back up light switch is faulty, if there is one.
View 4 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Will Randomly Stutter And Sometimes Die When Put Into Gear
I have a 2000 Echo with just over 200,000 kms on it. The problem I am having is that when the car is started it will idle fine but when put into gear will randomly stutter and sometimes die. After is has run for about 10 mins it won't die but still stutters quite a bit. The problem gets worse the colder it is outside. If it's above 0 deg C it won't die but still stutters. At highway speeds it almost feels like the car gets jerked backwards for a split second every time the engine stutters (misfiring?).
Spark plugs are about 1 year old. Just put in a new air filter and oil change. A friend suggested it might be some water in the tank but fuel line antifreeze and sea foam has made little improvement.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Toyota - How To Change Echo Blower Motor
How to change a 2003 toyota echo blower motor.... Looking for a step by step directions ....
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Toyota Echo - Engine Shakes On Idle
I am buying a Toyota Echo that the engine shakes on Idle and the shaking increase a bit when the AC is On ....
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo - Tail Light Removal
How do you remove a right rear 2001 Toyota echo tail light assembly?
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Toyota Echo Drives Fine Until Warmed Up
I have a 2000 Toyota Echo. Symptoms are, the car drives fine until warmed up. Once warmed up, about 10 min or so, there is surging, an inability to maintain idle, periodic loss of brake assist, all consistent with my p1349 code. This happened about two months after I changed my oil (the old oil was in there for an embarrassingly long time). I ran motor flush and again changed the oil; symptoms persist. I have removed the OCV and OCV screen; both look fairly clean. Here's the question: what checks can be done on the OCV itself before I call a bad OCV and replace it? The service manual was of only marginal quality in explaining any checks.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Installing Temperature Gauge On 2001 Toyota Echo?
is it possible to install an analog temperature gauge on a 2001 Toyota Echo? I live right on the Canadian border here in Mn. and it gets very cold. I have plenty blast from the heater fan but I don't think it's running warm enough. I had a new thermostat installed but it didn't seem to make any difference.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Toyota Echo 2002 Noise When Driving In Reverse
I have an automatic 2002 Echo. Like 2 or 3 days ago I started hearing a noise when I drive in reverse. Is a mix of friction and vibration and it gets louder the faster I drive, only in reverse. I read that this could be the symptom of a bad engine mount but I haven't been able to pinpoint it.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2000 Echo Rough Idle Especially While In Gear And With AC Running
My 2000 Echo (auto) developed a rough idle especially while in gear and with the AC running. It's a pretty rough vibration that seems to come from the left side (belt side) of the motor. When at a stop light with the AC off it is less pronounced.
Last year I had the belts and motor mounts replaced. Well let me rephrase.. I paid to have them replaced, not sure if they actually were. But the car ran great all year until the other day. The belts might be due for a replacement. They sometimes squeal in the morning as I accelerate from a stopped position while running the defrost. Also there is no CEL.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo - Checking Automatic Tranny Fluid
I just bought a 2001 Toyota Echo and wondering the procedure for checking the automatic tranny fluid. It doesn't say a word in the owner manual on how to do it. I know most vehicles you have it warmed up and check it in Park while idling.
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 1999 Toyota Echo - Instrument Panel Lights Going On / Off Intermittently
I have a Toyota Echo 1999 1.5 VVTi. Lately the Instrument panel / Dashboard has been intermittently turning off / on while driving. Its one of those digital instrument panels.
Fuses seem good , Dimmer switch works (only when the instrument panel is illuminated!) The other lights (none digital) on the dash work such handbrake , temp etc. always work fine, just the digital Instruments are causing the issue.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2002 Toyota Echo - P0171 Code Thrown While Idle
I have a 2002 Toyota Echo. I just purchases a Creader V code scanner. My car is throwing a P0171 code. The light only comes on at idle or while going under 10 mph.
The data from the reader was:
Trouble Code: P0171
Fuel System sta B1 : CL, using HO2S
Calculated Load: 11.76%
Coolant Temp 188.59 degrees
The Freeze frame data was:
ST Fuel B1: -3.91%
LF Fuel B1: 36.7%
Engine speed: 795.5 RPM
Vehicle speed: 0 mph
Intake Air Temp: 82.4 degrees.
I went back today and ran live feed on the O2 sensors. I'm not sure what STF of O2S: STF means. That was another figure displayed on my code scanner.
The O2S S1 was reading between .04 and about .82. The graph looked pretty normal (I guess) in regards to going up and back down between 0 and 1. I don't know alot about mechanics, but I seen a youtube video of a graph showing it going up and down and what is normal. Mine did that on S1.
O2S S1: STF was: 3.89 and -1.57%
O2S: S2 was a different story. It was between like .58 and .66.
The O2S S2: STF didn't give me a value at all. It just said " --% ". The graph of this was slowly going up but in a small range. It started at like maybe .4 and would go up to say .5. The next wave would be like .45 to .55, then .50 to .60, then .58 to .66 etc. So it was not ranging just between 0 and 1. It had a very tight range that gradually increased upwards.
I built my own smoke machine before testing with the code scanner and I didn't get any smoke coming out of the car except for around the air filter housing where the lid meets the bottom portion. I don't know if it's because I had the air filter wrapped in plastic wrap. Can I have an air leak where the filter cartridge connects that would case a lean code P0171? Maybe I should go try to smoke test again. I did it about 3 weeks ago and I can't recall exactly where I had the smoke going into. I thought I disconnected the PVC hose from the brake booster and plugged it in there. I assume the smoke would get thru the whole system. It took about 2 min before the smoke came out of the filter housing.
The car only sets a lean code at idle or going less than 10mph and I'm coasting in a residential area.
I have an inspection coming up in May and need to get this thing fixed before that. I can't find any other air leak, but I wasn't sure a leak around the filter would cause this and I'm not sure the leak wasn't caused by the plastic wrap.
I'm thinking my only other prob could be fuel related. Fuel filter, fuel pump, clogged injector, or can my O2 sensor be bad and causing this? I've already replaced all spark plugs and coils as well as the PVC valve and cleaned the MAF sensor with the appropriate spray.
The car runs ok. The exhaust seems to smell RICH. Like Gas. I don't think my fuel economy is as good as it use to be. It has dropped from as hi as 42 mpg to between 38 and 40 if I'm lucky.
Back when I was having problems before and realized I had a bad coil, I had tried some injector cleaner. Why the codes were back then, but I had erased them and the car ran fine for about 2 months and the light came back.
My MAF sensor was .14 lbs when I was watching the live data above. I plugged my fuel pressure tester directly into the fuel line coming from the fuel tank and got a reading of between 42 and 44 lbs (car not running, just by trying to turn the engine over). I don't know if that is as accurate (or useful) as having the fuel pressure tester on the car and in line to allow the car to start up and run and watch the tester. I have to wait until my part comes do run the test that way.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo Overheated When Idling For Extended Time With AC On
Twice now my 2001 Echo has overheated when I was sitting and idling it for an extended time with the air conditioner running. The temperature outside was in the nineties. I'm not sure if that makes a difference. After I let it cool down the first time added coolant and drove it, it didn't happen again until today months later. Is this normal?
View 4 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: Toyota Echo Runs Very Slow - Engine Lose Force
I have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
Yaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Toyota Echo - Ignition Lock Cylinder Replacement
The previous owner broke the key off in the ignition so I replace the ignition lock cylinder the problem is though even with the old one I can't turn the key to lock so it's stuck on acc. What I can try without replacing the entire column? Also it needs a catalytic converter, do I have to weld a universal one on ?
View 1 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2001 Automatic Toyota Echo Speed Sensor Broke And Stuck
My 2001 automatic Toyota echo speed sensor broke right in half and now the other half is stuck in the differential case (cv shaft housing) and I can not get it out. at all. I'm trying to pull it right back through the hole where it came from but it just simply won't budge. any other method of removal.
View 2 RepliesYaris/Scion & Vitz :: 2003 Toyota Echo Starts And Runs Good But Stops When Warm Up
I have a 2003 Toyota Echo with 250,000 miles. It has been a great car as I commute 90 miles to work. I have had no major problems with the car. Unfortunatly it recently died on the way to work. It was running great and then all the sudden it sputtered and killed. When I first tried to start the car it would just turnover but after waiting 10 minutes it started back up (this was a cold morning). When it started it was running great again. I drove it another 15 minutes and it all the sudden died again. This happened 3 times.
I have hooked up to a scan tool and a camshaft position sensor code displayed. I replaced that but had no change. Another code came up as mass air flow sensor. I purchased a used one of those and still no change.
I have started the car up numerous times and always have the same results. It starts right up, idles good, speeds up good and runs good at full throttle. The problem becomes when it warms up the car kills. If I run it at idle to a slow acceleration it takes longer to kill than if I run the car at full throttle. Once it kills it will not start up until the car cools down, but once it cools down it will start right back up.