Yukon :: 2000 4.8 - ABS Module Going Bad Resulting In Brake And ABS Light Remaining Lit On Dash
Mar 29, 2011
The ABS Module going bad resulting in the Brake Light and ABS Light remaining lit on the dash. Couple of questions:
1. Any preferences between using Module Master vs. ABS Fixer to get my module re-built?
2. MM told me to get the OEM from GM for confirmation. ABS Fixer told me to take it to a mechanic to see codes (1. Pump Running Failure or 2. CO265). I'm little leary that MM didn't tell me to do that and just assumed that the ABS was broken and I should just remove it and send it in. Who's right?
3. Also a little leary on trying to remove this myself. My unit is under driver door on top of the brake lines. Is it a difficult job (I can handle most things with good pictures and instructions) or should I take it in to local mechanic and have him remove it to send in?
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My transmission control module has gone bad, resulting in the car being in"limp" mode. I am advised not to drive the car in this condition as it starts out in 3rd and the transmission will be damaged. Thus far, my local dealer has, on a preliminary basis, been advised that there are none of these parts available anywhere in the world according to the computer and VW may have to manufacture one. This does not sound possible. Meanwhile, the dealer says no rental car will be offered so I am contacting VW North America to escalate. It could be up to a month to get a new part. Meanwhile, the car is in the garage just sitting.
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Brake warning light came on. Diagnosed as bad abs module. Mechanic replaced twice. One shell sensor continues to read not turning while it is turning. Mechanic has check continuity, it's fine. Seems to have a short. He cannot find where it is and next step is ripping out much interior to track tiny wire. Will not pass state inspection with brake warning light on.
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I was told that their is an AC control module in the dash. As I have a 2000 that we are still getting parts, where in the dash this control module is?
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I have a 2000 Passat w V6 thats in the shop at the dealers. The ABS/Brake light in the dash is coming on. The dealer says I need a new sensor in the ABS module. This sensor cost $700 plus about $400 in labor. Seems very pricey to me. My question is, could I buy a used ABS module and replace the bad one with the bad sensor myself? Where could I get a used or new ABS module at a good price? Is it hard to change out?
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My dash lights wont stay on. I replaced the fuse and am still having problems.
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The power locks started locking themselves randomly while I'm driving. First, the CARGO DOOR AJAR warning light comes on, then the locks click. They don't unlock, just lock. I've hit the unlock button, then they lock by themselves again. The dome light was also coming on, until I pressed the DOME LIGHT OVERRIDE button.
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So I unplugged my front seats and the airbag fault light came on. When I hooked them back up the light remained on. Is there a trick to this that I am unaware of? I would really like to get this light off my dash asap.
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My 2012 will not idle. The diagnostic computer reported bad CAM SHAFT SENSOR. Changed the sensor but still will not idle. Engine light remains on.
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About a month ago I was using my driver side seat heater when I noticed it wasn't warm anymore. I looked over and found the indicator light for the heater was off. Here is what happens:
When I push the buttons, I can hear a relay click under the dash, the indicator lights come on quickly, but then they go right back off. It does not matter if I choose upper or lower heaters, and it acts the same for both driver & passenger seats.
I connected up a Snap-On computer to it yesterday. We went under the driver door module and it shows the heated seats, but no error codes were present. It displayed the heated seat as inactive. When the button is pushed, it would show active for a split second, then go right back to inactive.
My mechanic friend thinks that it may be a shorted heater module. He isn't 100% sure on if that is the correct diagnosis, or where to locate the module. I believe it to be under the driver's seat.
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The issue is: when I start the Prius, the TPMS light blinks for about a minute before remaining steady. I have tried to reset the TPMS via the button below the steering wheel (knee-or-so height), but have not been successful (tried with the ignition in "ON" status, tried with "ACC", and as last resort tried in "READY")
My question is the following: Since I do not know all the history of the vehicle, how can i tell if its a sensor, the button, or something in the TPMS or ECU that's at fault? When I picked it up, all of the tires were a little flat (about 25 PSI).
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My 2001 Honda CR-V with 120,000 miles has been sending misfire codes for the past couple of weeks. I replaced the distributor rotor and cap, plugs (NGK's) and wires, and the light disappeared after a couple of driving cycles. Then, it came back on about a week later. I had it diagnosed at a shop for compression and everything was good. I had read about the valve issues so I had the valves adjusted.
The car seems to run without any hiccup at all, and its been over 150 miles since the valve adjustment but the engine light remains on with the misfire codes.
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I recently had my '02 Accent serviced. When I picked it up, the mechanic had set the parking brake with about 15,000 lbs of force. Once I got it released, I noticed that the red parking brake dash indicator light won't go off while the car is running.
I have verified the brakes are free, and have tried wiggling the brake handle.
Is there a switch somewhere that could be bad? For the record, I do most minor maintenance myself, and have 214,000 trouble-free miles on my 1.5L SOHC Accent.
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So I have been reading through older posts on this and never found a good solution so now I am asking again. My parking brake on my 02 Yukon is bad. I push it and it goes to the floor. Almost no stopping power what so ever.
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I have recently had some problems with my 2001 Yukon, it a 5.3L and has 4x4. when I accelerate I get about 2000 RPMs maybe and can barely get above 35mph. I brought it to a local dealer for a diagnosis and was told I had a bad catalytic converter, four bad O2 sensors and bad injector connectors. I've replaced the injector connectors but its still acting up. I don't want to spend the 700-1000 on a new catalytic converter when I can just replace the sensors.
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I recently replaced a broken brake line on a 99 lumina .I have good brakes and pedal, the fluid level is good, But the BRAKE light (Not abs light) will not go off in the dash.I bled the brakes using the pedal,I dont have any other method.The master cylinder was empty for 8-10 hrs.I'd hate to have to replace the master cylinder instead of something simple and cheaper to get the light to go off.I made sure the parking brake was released also. Not sure if ABS has something to do with it.
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Lately my wagon has been popping these warning lights on the dash randomly. I was wondering if this is a sign that my ECU is failing or my braking system? Besides the lights on the dash everything seems to be working just fine.
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As the says I have a 1999 Yukon Denali that the Rear Brake and Turn signal on Drivers side are not working. Also brake light on trailer DOES work but not the turn signal on that side.
I tested the Tail light circuit by plugging it into the passenger side and it works so that rules out that. What wires to test under the dash to test the combo / multi switch?
Also the tail lights or park light do work (both top and middle bulb lights up when the vehicle is running) its just brighter filament does not light up when breaks are pressed or turn signal is on.
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Every time I replace the fuse(under the hood) it blows almost immediately and no interior light work. When on all doors and overhead lights do work so I don't believe it's one of them shorting. Even tried bigger fuse.
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1994 Camry XLE V-6 239,000 miles and just broke in. Dash brake light on??
I have checked brake fluid taking lid off the canister and level is spot on. Do not see any obvious leaks looking under the car at each wheel. Whatever is the cause it is no longer letting my cruise control to work. The cruise control system must be getting a constant signal telling it the brakes are being applied. Car brakes seem to work ok and I continue to drive car daily. Problem with dash brake light cropped up about 5 days ago after I cleaned the EGR valve.
I previously had a check engine light and code was for the EGR. Don't believe the problems are related but thought I would add this info anyway. BTW the check engine light came on again so cleaning the EGR didn't solve the problem. Will have to have the code read again to see if its the EGR or something else now. Dash is starting to look like a christmas tree with all the pretty colored lights on. What should I check to solve the dash brake light/cruise control issue.
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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