Camry :: 1994 XLE V6 Dash Brake Light On
Feb 26, 2013
1994 Camry XLE V-6 239,000 miles and just broke in. Dash brake light on??
I have checked brake fluid taking lid off the canister and level is spot on. Do not see any obvious leaks looking under the car at each wheel. Whatever is the cause it is no longer letting my cruise control to work. The cruise control system must be getting a constant signal telling it the brakes are being applied. Car brakes seem to work ok and I continue to drive car daily. Problem with dash brake light cropped up about 5 days ago after I cleaned the EGR valve.
I previously had a check engine light and code was for the EGR. Don't believe the problems are related but thought I would add this info anyway. BTW the check engine light came on again so cleaning the EGR didn't solve the problem. Will have to have the code read again to see if its the EGR or something else now. Dash is starting to look like a christmas tree with all the pretty colored lights on. What should I check to solve the dash brake light/cruise control issue.
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I have a 99' Toyota Camry that has just turned over 150,000 miles. Two winters ago I noticed that the orange brake light on the dash would come on and stay on. But when the weather became warm again in the spring the dash light went off and stays off during warm weather, and then comes back on again when weather gets cold.
When the light initially came on the brakes worked fine and the pedal was nice and high and firm. I pulled the wheels and found the pads and shoes still had well over 70% of pad and shoe material remaining and the brake fluid is clean and full.
And even to this day the brakes work beautifully except for the dash brake light coming on when cold and going off when warm.
One other side note....I have NEVER used the emergency hand brake lever between the seats since I have owned the car. I have always been leary of using these hand brakes since I have had cars in the past that the brakes would seize in place and would not release when the lever was released. As a result, I never touch it. And I have never place my car in a situation where I would even need to use it.
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I am having a problem with my 2004 Toyota Camry XLE V6 brakes. For the past couple months I keep seeing the brake dash light turn on and the brake fluid is constantly going down but I don't see any wet spots under the car. I needed rear pads so I kept thinking that it was just the fluid going down because of worn rear pads but I changed the rear brakes last weekend and still have this problem. Today when I went to drive the car for the first time of the day I heard this loud noise every time I stepped on the brake pedal. I checked the brake fluid level and it was a little below low so I filled it back up. I kind of feel like I've had to fully press down on the brake pedal lately to stop the car. There's plenty of brake power but I feel like I have to push all the way down and I don't remember it being like that.
Video of Noise: [URL] ....
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About two years ago I sold my 1994 Aero (transmission was going, and other stuff) and bought a 1997 that was in much better shape. But one flaw it has is that it was used somewhere with high corrosion, so a lot of stuff is stuck or rusty. I haven't changed the rear bulbs since I got it, but this week, 2 out of three bulbs went. Actually, I only noticed the 2nd one because the blinker went too, and started blinking fast. The 3rd Brake light on top might have been out a while already.
Anyway, to my frustration, I cannot open the 3rd Brake Light to change the bulbs. Even after I removed the 2 screws, the lens won't budge. I tried gentle prying, but I can hear the plastic starting to crack. I figure there are 2 possibilities.
a) It somehow got fused to the gasket over time. or
b) It was crazy-glued shut by some insane maniac (a long-shot?). In which case I can try Acetone.
For starters, once the screws are removed, does just the red lens come out, or does the black frame around it come out with it? I tried prying on both, but one of them is surely wrong. Worst case scenario is that I break it, and have to glue it back on or get another one from a junk yard. But that is not good... Meanwhile I am living ok with just 2 brake lights.
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My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
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I noticed today, coming to work, my "Brake" warning light is on, on my dash panel. I engaged and disengaged the parking/emergency brake, thinking maybe was stuck there, but the light did not go out.
Is this related to my parking brake or my 4 wheel brakes? I have 4500 miles on this car. It is an XLE, 4 cyl. First time something like this has occurred since purchasing in December.
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I own a toyota camry le automatic that has the engine light on and dies while driving. I've taken it to a mechanic and he diagnosed the error codes p0500 and 720. we fixed the 720 by replacing the trans. speed shaft sensor and replaced the vehicle speed sensor with one we bought from ebay. The rpm will shoot up randomly whilst the check engine light is on. the speedometer works just fine now. car dies when it slows down or at a stop. the rpm goes far below 1000 and i smell gas then i hear it beginning to struggle just to stay on.
The dash lights dim and return to normal then dim again and repeat then it shuts off and the battery light along with oil light come on. turns on fine but when put in reverse or drive it shuts off. it cant go more than 3 minutes without it messing up. when the engine light isn't on it runs just fine but once it turns on i've got about three minutes to get back somewhere safe. also when it does want to die i have to give it gas for it to stay on. i feel a major lag also and the o/d light flashes along with the pwr light.
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I recently purchased a 1994 Camry LE Wagon 3.0 for a reliable work car. I've spent the last week correcting mechanical issues the previous owner didn't. (Tune up, filters, struts.....)
When I start the car the "failed bulb" indicator light located to the left of the Tachometer is off, but as soon as I touch the brake to put the car in "D" the indicator light comes on and stays on until the next time I start it. I have checked EVERY exterior bulb several times with the car in park, not running. In park with the car running and the same in drive. All exterior lights work but this indicator light won't go off when the car is running.
Is there a fuse, sensor or relay somewhere on this car which may be the source of this problem? Wanting to "Turn off the Lights!"
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I recently replaced a broken brake line on a 99 lumina .I have good brakes and pedal, the fluid level is good, But the BRAKE light (Not abs light) will not go off in the dash.I bled the brakes using the pedal,I dont have any other method.The master cylinder was empty for 8-10 hrs.I'd hate to have to replace the master cylinder instead of something simple and cheaper to get the light to go off.I made sure the parking brake was released also. Not sure if ABS has something to do with it.
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Lately my wagon has been popping these warning lights on the dash randomly. I was wondering if this is a sign that my ECU is failing or my braking system? Besides the lights on the dash everything seems to be working just fine.
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I have checked the brake fluid and recycled the emergency brake pedal and the red light in the instrument cluster won't go out. Is it possible that the problem make be the contact switch right above the emergency brake pedal? I have pushed on the switch and the light doesn't go out?
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My brake light and battery dash lights came on when I got home. The next day drove 3 miles parked no lights on . But on my way back. about 1/12 miles they came back on. Next trip they came on when first started the car stayed on for about 9 miles once I got on the.Why they went off stayed off till I hit town about 30 miles. Stayed on till I parked the car. When I left to return home lights still on. While driving. n all dash lights came on then went real dim to no lights transmission and brakes felt like they were losing power .parked the car the next morning it started right up but break and battery light still on moved it a couple blocks to my sons house . When the lights went off on the hey. Then heater fan would kick up when lights are on heater fan runs slower.
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I have a 2000 Passat w V6 thats in the shop at the dealers. The ABS/Brake light in the dash is coming on. The dealer says I need a new sensor in the ABS module. This sensor cost $700 plus about $400 in labor. Seems very pricey to me. My question is, could I buy a used ABS module and replace the bad one with the bad sensor myself? Where could I get a used or new ABS module at a good price? Is it hard to change out?
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I've replaced rusted out brake lines on my 1998 GMC Sierra 1500. I bled the system properly and every thing seems to run fine and brakes good. But the brake warning light stays on in the dash and buzzer is on. What to do to turn these off...
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I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My dad said his 2009 RX350, he noticed that the brake light on the dash randomly comes on and off sometimes now.
I've read that a lot of the earlier models had an issue with the brake light switch that was causing the VSC, brake, and ABS lights to come on, but in his case it is only the brake light alone that is lighting up.
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I have a major problem with my 04 V8 Touareg! I can't shift out of park. I spoke to the dealer and they told me that the battery could be the problem since I had to get it jumped. I changed the battery, and I still can't get it out of park. The brake light on the dash is flashing and the ABS light is on. The vehicle is parked in garage and the only way to get it out and on to a tow truck is to drag it.
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So I got my 92 Celica GT 2.2 Motor Auto (unfortunately for now). Back off my wife's uncle and it wont crank or anything. I also noticed that now when you push the brake, it still wont let u shift it out of park. If you try to start the car it does nothing, however the brake light on the dash shows up. I am thinking it may be the starter as all the relays and fuses look ok. I am thinking it could be the ignition switch as it wont let me shift out of park without using the release button, but am not sure where I should start.
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I recently purchased an 07 f150 lariat leveled 4x4. I noticed the other day that all at once, the abs light and parking brake light came onto the dash, 4x4 low doesn't work and just stays in high and the ac doesn't blow cold. I'm assuming this is somewhat connected considering this all happened at once but really just not sure.
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The e brake is not engaged but the light is on. how can i kill the light?
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The ABS Module going bad resulting in the Brake Light and ABS Light remaining lit on the dash. Couple of questions:
1. Any preferences between using Module Master vs. ABS Fixer to get my module re-built?
2. MM told me to get the OEM from GM for confirmation. ABS Fixer told me to take it to a mechanic to see codes (1. Pump Running Failure or 2. CO265). I'm little leary that MM didn't tell me to do that and just assumed that the ABS was broken and I should just remove it and send it in. Who's right?
3. Also a little leary on trying to remove this myself. My unit is under driver door on top of the brake lines. Is it a difficult job (I can handle most things with good pictures and instructions) or should I take it in to local mechanic and have him remove it to send in?
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