Caravan/Voyager :: 2008 Brake Warning Light On Dash Is On
May 23, 2015
I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
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My door ajar warning light stays on and at the same time the warning bell/noise keeps going off. Is there something that I can disconnect to make the noise stop?
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98 dodge caravan 3.3L v6 ..... All lights work including driver's side tail lights. only problem is that when pressing brake pedal, the driver's side brake light does not light up. i changed the bulb and checked the brake light fuse under the hood, but it was fine (as i guessed since the passenger side and middle brake lights work). I took the assembly off and reseated the connector to the tail light assembly, but same issue.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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97 2.4 caravan dies while driving. Its been going on for awhile, coded at o'riellys and autozone several times. It started with having the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Problem solved for a few days but it always returned.It would restart a few minutes later then it got worse. I called it the 30 mile van 'cause that's all it would go before dying or not restarting immediately.
Go to the grocery store, have to wait another 30 minutes to go home. Then it started only going a few blocks before shutting down while driving. I replaced the o2 sensor, the shutoff and fuel pump relays and finally took it to a shop that engine coded it. On their advice, they said the codes were all over, jumping everywhere, we replaced the ECM. It went 5 hours driving great then died and immediately restarted. Again no dash codes.
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I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
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I have a 91 grand voyager an every time I hook up battery there is a click noise coming from the relays behind the alternator near dash. I'm also having battery drain issues also an had alternator an battery tested, ok. Is this click from relay draining battery and what relay could it be? I switched them an had same click .
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I have a 96 voyager, it has been a great car for the last 10 years I've had it. My brake pedal goes down to the floor, it gives brake but I think barely and my brake light comes on. I have Bled it twice and changed the master cylinder , neither worked, I'm perplexed, my mechanic thinks it is the abs.
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2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT 4.0L 47K miles. I am having a bad issue with the brakes.
I have had to replace the front brake pads and rotors 3 times and going on the 4th time IN LESS THAN 47K MILES. The brakes seem to work fine in city driving where the streets are flat. The problem is when driving on any kind of a downhill grade. If you try to brake on a downhill slope the brakes shudder so bad that you cannot only feel the steering wheel shake, you can SEE it shake.
The Dealerships say the problem is warped rotors and everything is fine after installing a new set or turning the old set. After the 2nd set of "OEM" rotors supplied by the dealerships (two different Dealerships to be exact), I got fed up and installed top of the line NAPA Ceramic pads and Rotors, which do the exact same thing after less than a year/7k miles. This van is not a commercial vehicle, and is not overloaded or used for towing.
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My old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
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Just have a quick question. I am replacing some rusted brake lines near the gas tank. I already have the rusted ones cut out. I want to know if this junction box is really needed. If not it would sure take out alot of bending the lines. It looks like the line only come down the frame and bolt into the block and then straight out to the rear wheels.
[IMG][/IMG]...
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My right front brake caliper is frozen and I cannot turn the tire. This happened about a month ago and I went to Autozone and they gave me a new caliper, rotor and brakes, under warranty, and now the caliper is frozen again and I cannot turn the tire when jacked up. It seems to release after a period of time. I am not sure if it has a proportioning valve for the front brakes, but the driver side wheel turns freely and is not stuck.
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Wife telling the brakes went out but fluid is leaking under center of vehicle when brake is pressed. Is this just a rear brake line issue?
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Since there is not dipstick for a 2008 GC with six speed transmission, how much transmission fluid goes back?
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I had to replace my swaybar links on my T&C due to it not passing state safety inspection. There was also some random noise that occasionally occurred on bumps. The tech said the "book" said to replace the strut and strut mounts but he could not see anything wrong. After replacing the swaybar links, there is now clunking while driving. I thought it was a lack of grease in the links but I greased them and while it got a little better...it still happens.
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I have a 2008 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with 58000 miles. The rear blower won't run with either the front controls or rear controls. I have checked the fuses and they looked ok.
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My T&C strikes again... Now it shakes when braking at highway speeds (thinking rotors are warped and need changed), but today the brake light, traction control, and ABS lights all come on and stay on when I drive...
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I have a 2008 GC with the E-Brake calipers in the back. I changed the brakes and rotors all around and now the petal goes to the floor. I know it has something to do with the rear brakes, because I did the fronts first and after a few pumps I had good petal.
I've done these types of rear brakes before, you use a tool to turn the caliper in. Is there anything I missed? Did I turn it in too much? I don't think it is the master cylinder because it was fine before I started and fine after I did the fronts.
Also, the e-brake doesn't hold at all now, so that's another reason I think the problem is in the rear calipers. Maybe an Adjustment? There's nothing leaking, either.
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My 08 T&C's rear spoiler almost broke off the van today when I hit the power door button and the spoiler jammed into the roof (creating a small dent). Is this a known issue with this year? I already broke one spoiler off shortly after purchasing the vehicle. The plastic spoiler does not mount flush to the lift gate. If it did, there would be ample clearance.
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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