Caravan/Voyager :: 1997 Plymouth - No Dash Gauges But Dash Lights Working Fine
Feb 5, 2010
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
View 14 Replies
2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
View 4 Replies
97 2.4 caravan dies while driving. Its been going on for awhile, coded at o'riellys and autozone several times. It started with having the camshaft and crankshaft replaced. Problem solved for a few days but it always returned.It would restart a few minutes later then it got worse. I called it the 30 mile van 'cause that's all it would go before dying or not restarting immediately.
Go to the grocery store, have to wait another 30 minutes to go home. Then it started only going a few blocks before shutting down while driving. I replaced the o2 sensor, the shutoff and fuel pump relays and finally took it to a shop that engine coded it. On their advice, they said the codes were all over, jumping everywhere, we replaced the ECM. It went 5 hours driving great then died and immediately restarted. Again no dash codes.
View 1 Replies
I have a 99 Voyager with 88,000 miles. Brand new battery 12/12/06- won't start 3 weeks later - cleaned & protected battery connectors - still no start if left for more then 4 hours undriven Battery tested fine- being drained approx 2 amps- something left on...? Now there is a clicking sound under the dash before trying to start. Could it be some type of relay being left open or fuse or
View 6 Replies
I'm working on a 2008 Grand Caravan SE 3.3L Brake warning light (!) on dash is on. Datastream on my OTC Genisys shows that the Brake fluid level switch is 'ON'.
The van does not have pad wear indicators; fluid is full; there are no leaks in the system; no brake pull, uneven braking or other performance issues.
Scantool says Park Brake is off and I disconnected it to be sure.
When checking connector at switch on the master, one wire has continuity to ground and the other has about 12.5V on the DMM but won't light my test light.
View 4 Replies
I have a 91 grand voyager an every time I hook up battery there is a click noise coming from the relays behind the alternator near dash. I'm also having battery drain issues also an had alternator an battery tested, ok. Is this click from relay draining battery and what relay could it be? I switched them an had same click .
View 3 Replies
I have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
View 2 Replies
1st problem is shifting from 1st to 2nd and sometimes from 2nd to 3rd though, 2nd to 3rd is not as bad as from 1st to 2nd. It stumbles and gets really bad if I don't let up on the gas. After the initial shudder it will go into 2nd just fine. I also have to gun the gas a little bit when I first start the car, or it will just sit there and idle and never go into gear.
2nd and more annoying is that it stalls after driving around a bit. It happens on freeway or city. It doesn't stutter or anything the rpm's drop to 0 and it just stalls and won't start up for a 5 - 10 minutes or so.
Codes pulled are P0731, & P0736. The transmission was replaced about 2 years ago with a refurbished one. Could it be going out again already? The guy at Autozone suggested replacing the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor?) to see if that was the problem. I have not done this yet, but plan to.
View 3 Replies
I recently bought a used 1994 Plymouth Grand Voyager. The other day I went to start the van, and nothing happened- it clicked, and all the lights and horn were functioning, but it wouldn't turn over. I got under the car and found that the starter was hot, so I went to the auto parts store and bought a new starter. I put it in, and drove it home, and all was well. The next day I got on the highway and discovered that the van would not get out of limp mode- it wouldn't shift into a higher gear and the RPMs were building higher. I got off and took side streets home.
I disconnected the battery for a good while and re-connected it, and things were fine for a short while, but it developed the problem again.
I intend on checking the relays under the hood, checking electrical connections, and getting a trans fluid change soon. Is replacing the starter at all related to the limp mode issue?
View 2 Replies
We have a 97 Dodge Ram and the park and dash lights have quit working. We have tried four new(not factory) switches with the same result - no lights. What else should we try?
View 5 Replies
'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
View 13 Replies
I am working on this 97 F150 with the EOTF. It is not doing anything. When i turn the key on, no light on the dash comes on. When i operated the 4wd switch, nothing happens, no lights on the dash, no relay clicks or transfer case noise, etc. It has a new t case motor, the switch tests out good. I have researched for a while, and either find people with different symptoms or the original poster never updated with what the fix was. I am unsure where to go at this point, i am suspect of the GEM or the t case relay, but don't want to go replacing stuff without a basis for going so. Ive tested for voltage at the switch as well and it has 5 volts at pin 3.
View 13 Replies
Brake lights do not work. The turn signals work, the flashers work, and the running lights (head lights) work. I checked the bulbs and both filaments light up during the above processes.
I removed the brake switch at the pedal. When I was removing it, I heard some clicking under the dash. I connected the 2 pins with a wire (bypassing the switch), and got a spark a few times along with the clicking sound like a relay,and the brake lights would come on, but now nothing. No sparks, no clicking. The flashers and turn signals and running lights still work.
There are no blown fuses in the fuse box to the left of the steering column. Is there a relay somewhere under the dash just for the brake lights?
View 7 Replies
Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
View 1 Replies
So this is my wifes vehicle so I don't always get the whole story . I have seen this once or twice over the years. We have the 2008 T&C Touring 4.3L. Bought it brand new. Now we're up to 80k miles.
The problem is that sometimes after starting the van all off the accessories including lights gauges everything are completely dead. If I turn the van off and stay it again it will be fine. I'm thinking the electrical side of the ignition switch but its so random.
View 4 Replies
All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
View 10 Replies
I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
View 4 Replies
We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
View 2 Replies
My truck was fine yesterday morning, but when I got in it after work, nothing worked. The power windows, radio, ac, gauges all stopped working. Everything else does - power seat, wipers, turn signals....etc. What is going on?
View 2 Replies
This is my wfe's 2001 XC70 with 110,000 miles on it. Problem on hand: While drive (only 10 minutes), dash lightS n gauges all went out, power window, lock, sunroof out also, but engine, headlight, n radio still worked. Popped the following warning light; check engine, ABS. This happened twice within a week.
Dealer's recommedation: Took to dealer, they looked at me like I had 4 heads or something. Ran test, told me a bunch of codes popped up but can not replicate the problem. Recommendations was to replace CEM, catalytic converter, driver seat belt. This is a $3,000+ repair that they "think" should fix it. "think"""""" Told them I would think about it. They reset all the warning lights n car ran fine for about 1 month, and have since happened 2 more times while my wife is driving it around with our son. I have also experienced myself, the floor light would stay on as though a door was opened. No power windows or locks.
Leading to the bigger problem: Leading to this problem, I documented the following electrical issues for a few months: -Blower motor running at full speed when I first enter the car after it sat all night in my driveway. -Using the windshield fluid function made the rear speakers produced static sounds, but stop as soon as I let go of the washer fluid lever. -Driver heated seat motor failed twice and left unfixed after second time. -Power window both driver side and passenger would roll up with one touch, but come right back down by itself as though its hitting something. -Note, the above happened here and there, never at the same time. We have own this Volvo for just 1 year. Otherwise love this car. Now what? I don't know what to do, and I think this could be unsafe for the wife and child as their daily commute. What do you think? Any Volvo mechanics here? Is it worth fixing? A, I coming up a guhe waterfall or just a little ripple? We don't have $3000 to try the fix only to have to drop another 1-2k more.
View 5 Replies
