Silverado :: 2000 Dash Lights And Gauges Appeared With Battery Sign
Jan 28, 2014
All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
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Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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My partner drove the Prius with 54,000 miles to work this morning as he always does. So he is on lunch and sent me a text saying some warning lights appeared on the dash while he was sitting at a red light. I asked if he had any loss of power, if the battery fan was running, he said it drove normally. We bought it last summer with 44,000 miles from a Toyota dealer. They said it had a new inverter pump. It has the original 12v battery however. Though it doesn't act weak at all. No issues this winter at all.
Note, the battery in the photo is at 1 bar. I asked him about it and he said he was driving aggressively to work today, which includes a 2 mile 6% climb he said he made at a high rate of speed... Though after the exit, he has another mile to work.. So the battery should have built itself up before him parking it.
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So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
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'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
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We have a 2006 Prius that has never given me a bit of trouble the last 24 months or ownership. My wife was driving a few weeks ago and had multiple dash lights come on while stopped at a red light but the car was still acting fine. Light turned green she drove a couple miles at about 45-55mph to the gas station, shut her down, came back and everything returned to normal. Today it happened again but this time she got a picture of the lights that was on. SEE ATTACHMENT BELOW. the TPMS is always on by the way.
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I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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This is my wfe's 2001 XC70 with 110,000 miles on it. Problem on hand: While drive (only 10 minutes), dash lightS n gauges all went out, power window, lock, sunroof out also, but engine, headlight, n radio still worked. Popped the following warning light; check engine, ABS. This happened twice within a week.
Dealer's recommedation: Took to dealer, they looked at me like I had 4 heads or something. Ran test, told me a bunch of codes popped up but can not replicate the problem. Recommendations was to replace CEM, catalytic converter, driver seat belt. This is a $3,000+ repair that they "think" should fix it. "think"""""" Told them I would think about it. They reset all the warning lights n car ran fine for about 1 month, and have since happened 2 more times while my wife is driving it around with our son. I have also experienced myself, the floor light would stay on as though a door was opened. No power windows or locks.
Leading to the bigger problem: Leading to this problem, I documented the following electrical issues for a few months: -Blower motor running at full speed when I first enter the car after it sat all night in my driveway. -Using the windshield fluid function made the rear speakers produced static sounds, but stop as soon as I let go of the washer fluid lever. -Driver heated seat motor failed twice and left unfixed after second time. -Power window both driver side and passenger would roll up with one touch, but come right back down by itself as though its hitting something. -Note, the above happened here and there, never at the same time. We have own this Volvo for just 1 year. Otherwise love this car. Now what? I don't know what to do, and I think this could be unsafe for the wife and child as their daily commute. What do you think? Any Volvo mechanics here? Is it worth fixing? A, I coming up a guhe waterfall or just a little ripple? We don't have $3000 to try the fix only to have to drop another 1-2k more.
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OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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I have an 05 silverado 1500 crew cab z71 and i have a little bit of an issue with my Check Engine Light being on. The problem is when I tried to pull the code from the computer it wouldn't even read that it was plugged in at all. I talked to a buddy of mine and he said that could possibly be the reason its on.
What I am trying to figure out is what i have to do to remedy the situation so that i can actually be able to pull codes in the future. My truck inspection is out and need this light fixed.
Also every once in a while my battery light comes on and it says i need to service my charging system also because I have never seen it before.
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Dad's 2000 F150 5.4 ltr will start intermittently, when it does fire it runs fine, but right after start up all the dash gauges "spike" to the max levels for a sec and then go back down to normal....
Put the Cen-Tec 98614 code reader on and it continues to say "Link error" and I can't communicate to the interface. P.S., I confirmed the Code reader is good by pulling a 420 O2 sensor code from my Toyota in just a few seconds....
I can hear the fuel pump kick in so I doubt that is the culprit. Because of the gauge spike at start up (every time) this problem screams grounding problem, but I don't know where to start. Could it be a faulty relay?
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I have a 2001 Silverado and for some reason all the dash lights on come from check engine to the abs light gas gauge goes to empty then back to normal 9 times out of 10 these lights come on. It has done this for a while and doesn't effect how it drives, I am possibly wanting to sell it and cannot explain hat it runs fine with this problem. Where do I start to figure this problem out .
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Vehicle: 1983 chevy c10
Here's the problem, when the high beams are on the dash cluster lights work fine,but when I turn the high beams off the dash cluster lights go off.Im going to buy a new high beam switch but what else might cause this problem?The truck has one of those metal button high beam switches that is mounted on the floor.
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 4X4 extended cab with short box with a 5.3L. A couple weeks ago I noticed that my brake lights were staying on all the time. I removed the fuses for the trailer left and right lights and the brake lights went out. due to the holidays I haven't had time to find out why the lights were staying on.
Today I noticed that my 3rd brake light was staying on all the time, even with the truck off, and no one in the truck, and my electric brake controller inside the cab was on. I unplugged the controller from the fuse panel and the controller light went out but the 3rd brake light was still on. I couldn't find a fuse, so I removed the bulbs. Where I would start to find the problem.
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So the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
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Install new HV Battery in 2005 and now I have no dash display lights.
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