Cherokee :: Dash Lights And Gauges Non Responsive / Battery Died
Nov 22, 2011
Battery has died..... tried charging it and my amperage is spiking like crazy and wont stop. Prior to all of this my dash lights and gauges were fluctuating at best non responsive at worst. I believed that i had a short in my light switch but with it removed my problems are still consistent my battery terminals are fine, and my battery cables are in good condition. I do not know where the short could be ( i know there are thousands of locations).
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All dash lights and gauges went crazy with a picture of battery in screen and then stopped working for a few miles before working again. I was cruising @65 and this happened and downshifted to 2nd then quickly to 3rd and wouldn't shift again. Stuck in 3rd gear.
Had it scanned and got
P0740
P0753
P0758
P0785
All shift solenoids. Would I just buy a new valve body with new solenoids?
I would occasionally have the gauges go crazy and battery light go on but would go away and not have any codes stored. It would only do it towing and always thought it was a ground issue with th
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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So, about 6 months ago, I bought a 1999 Dodge Ram just to keep around the house to do odd and ends jobs. Not a daily driver. I might have a need for it every few months. Well, a few months ago, I went to start it and the battery was dead. I have a battery charger that tests the battery. It said the battery was bad. So, I bought a new battery. A few days ago, I went to start it... again with the new battery, it was dead.
Put the charger on it and it said again that there was a shorted cell in it. So, I returned that one under warranty. Now went to start it, dead again (a week later.) So, I guess it's obvious it's not a bad battery (or at least the bad batteries are a cause of something else wrong.) I'm guessing there's a slow drain somewhere in the truck. How to find it?
I don't know if this has anything to do with it... Ever since I've owned it, every once in a while when driving the truck, all the gauges on the dash go to 0. Then it will just randomly start working again. Don't know if that has anything to do with the battery dying problem.
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'02 TB; 120,000 miles. When I have our TB running the dash lights will come on and the guages will go to zero. Then they will go off and the gauges will return to normal and back again. It acts like the key was shut off though it wasn't. The engine is still running. Now, after reading several posts here I'm thinking the ignition switch is bad. Is there a way to check the ignition switch before I buy a new one?
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I have a 2006 Jeep Commander. Periodically, and quite inconsistently, all the lights on the dash board flash on and off while simultaneously all the gauges drop to zero and the air stops blowing out from the vents. My car will continue to drive and all lights work along with the radio. This has happened while driving at 75 mph on the highway and my car will continue on as if nothing has happened. I know this isn't good, but completely baffled by it all. I have taken it to a Jeep dealer and they only saw there was a weak reading from my battery, but the battery isn't even two years old so I have yet to replace it.
I'm including a video I took while stopped at a light so you will see the RPM's drop down, but since I wasn't moving the MPH remains at zero.
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We have a 2004 Honda civic and we are having a bit of issue. I am not sure what is wrong but my dad thinks it may be the alternator. I would drive down the road and the dash lights and the gauges would shut off and five minutes later the car would act like its out of gas and sputtering down the road. took it to pepboys and they replaced the positive terminal and two belts. found out the wrong battery was installed at walmart long story short...we got a new battery and drove about 200 miles and it did the same thing....the hood prop was resting on the positive terminal and was arcing my hood. could it be the alternator or more of an electrical problem due to the arcing?
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This is my wfe's 2001 XC70 with 110,000 miles on it. Problem on hand: While drive (only 10 minutes), dash lightS n gauges all went out, power window, lock, sunroof out also, but engine, headlight, n radio still worked. Popped the following warning light; check engine, ABS. This happened twice within a week.
Dealer's recommedation: Took to dealer, they looked at me like I had 4 heads or something. Ran test, told me a bunch of codes popped up but can not replicate the problem. Recommendations was to replace CEM, catalytic converter, driver seat belt. This is a $3,000+ repair that they "think" should fix it. "think"""""" Told them I would think about it. They reset all the warning lights n car ran fine for about 1 month, and have since happened 2 more times while my wife is driving it around with our son. I have also experienced myself, the floor light would stay on as though a door was opened. No power windows or locks.
Leading to the bigger problem: Leading to this problem, I documented the following electrical issues for a few months: -Blower motor running at full speed when I first enter the car after it sat all night in my driveway. -Using the windshield fluid function made the rear speakers produced static sounds, but stop as soon as I let go of the washer fluid lever. -Driver heated seat motor failed twice and left unfixed after second time. -Power window both driver side and passenger would roll up with one touch, but come right back down by itself as though its hitting something. -Note, the above happened here and there, never at the same time. We have own this Volvo for just 1 year. Otherwise love this car. Now what? I don't know what to do, and I think this could be unsafe for the wife and child as their daily commute. What do you think? Any Volvo mechanics here? Is it worth fixing? A, I coming up a guhe waterfall or just a little ripple? We don't have $3000 to try the fix only to have to drop another 1-2k more.
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OK, I just got done replacing the alternator on the wife's 05 escape 3.0 V6, after it started on fire. The 3 wire plug was melted onto the alternator, so I had to replace the pigtail. I'm 99.9% sure that I got the wires in the right place. But now, after putting it all back together, it idles sporadically, when I drive it seems almost like it's trying to start out in 2nd gear, and shifts oddly. And there are no dash lights or gauges. Headlights work fine. And everything worked normally before I took it apart.
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2004 Excursion 4x4 6.0. I just had the fuel injectors & wiring harness replaced and it runs great, but after 30 minutes of driving the complete dash lights/gauges stopped working. I found that the #45 10amp fuse had blown so replaced it and after 20 minutes the same thing happened. While it was working all of the lights & gauges seemed to be working okay. This doesn't effect anything else, still starts & runs okay, turn signals work, head lights work, but the head light auto on/off doesn't.
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I have had my '08 Prius for 3 years and have little to no problems with it. This morning I jumped in to go to work and the entire dash lit up and then faded out and died. The only lights still on is the check engine light, Airbag light and the little green light on the Park button. The worst part is now I can not completely shut it down. I am wondering if it is just a dead battery or if this is something bigger. If it is a dead battery I am baffled at how it could be. I have AAA coming to jump it and I hope that is all it is. Sound familiar?
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I got my Alternator replaced last week. Last night, I hit a very small bump, not even large enough to really cause me to slow down, and as soon as I did, my battery and brake lights came on. My RPM gauge also jumped around and eventually went to 0 until I stopped and put the car in park. (The bump might just be a coincidence who knows). So after all this happened, I turned off my car, tried to restart and got nothing. Sometimes I get a click, sometimes 2 clicks up to 4-6 consecutive clicks. Every few times I won't even get a click, just a slight attempt to start, then the car dies, then 2 seconds later all my lights and radio etc. come back on. My problem here is a few things:
1. I've been told it could be the starter. If it's the start, those dashboard lights shouldn't have came on right? just the STARTING portion of the car.
2. I've been told it could be the battery.
Well If i got my alternator tested and Advance said it was working, Why would my battery be dead? And if it WAS dead, wouldn't my lights have went dim or something else happen to the car?
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The battery light came on in my '04 F150 a couple of days ago. Terminals were in need of cleaning, so I took care of that. The next day after driving 50 miles to and from work, the battery light came on again, along with the ABS & Brake light started flashing. After shutting the truck off, it would not start.
Three days later, I have now installed a brand new alternator and battery, only to have the same symptoms pop up about one minute after start up. The warning lights are now accompanied by the passenger airbag light and all engine instruments needle sweep back and forth. Dash lights go dim and bright intermittently as RPM varies.
Do I need old fault codes cleared or is this a PCM issue?
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Wife was driving her car and went around a corner when out of the blue it died. Unable to re-start. I've replaced plugs, wires, coil pack and still no response. I'm not a mechanic and don't know where any of the sensors are located. I tried doing the self-diagnostics test but now none of the dash lights come on. Car cranks just fine. I've heard that it may be sensors, it could be the safety switch. It's a 95 Plymouth Neon Sport, 2.0 SOHC Five Speed manual.
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I have my 2004 Prius in the shop for a replacement of the HV battery pack. The car has approx. 120,00 miles on it.
The battery failed with all the lights, warning symbols etc. I just got a call from the dealership that its going to take longer than expected to get the car back to me. They have the battery pack replacement, but when doing the replacement, they noticed that the cables were "corroded." The cables for the battery need to be replaced before they will complete the repair. But the cables need to be ordered and won't be in soon.
Is this common? for these cables to corrode? Would this problem have caused the HV battery failure?
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Gen II Prius, 151000 miles, HV battery died (rapid charging / discharging, cooling fan on high constantly, etc) Installed remanufactured HV battery. Connect it all back up, test drive, get the triangle of death, VSC, amber (!), and MIL on MFD. Car continues to drive normally until shutdown, upon next startup lights still present and won't shift into D or R only N. Pull codes, POAA6 is showing.
Code doesn't reset with car in ign on (not ready) after 60 seconds, make car ready and shift immediately to N. Code resets after 30 sec. Have done this trouble shooting 4 times and code always resets with ready on and in N. This points to the HV 'leak' being either in the wiring harness or the inverter. What I can do next in order to figure out which one?
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I have a 2000 Cherokee Sport and the Check Gauges Light has come on, it usually happens after during my commute and I have been on the freeway for about 10 minutes, I exit and at the first stoplight it comes on. Doesn't come on in normal around town driving, just in that situation each day. I took it in to my mechanic and twice and it still comes on, they said they replaced the oil pump. Anyway, could it be that the gauge light has to be reset? I don't see any leak after two days on the street now. I am at my wits end, before I take it to different mechanic, I'd like to see what the boards say.
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Battery died and car (LS 460) was jumped started. Every warning light is on how do I turn them off. Car was running perfectly until battery was drained.
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My old and often very reliable '93 Subaru's power steering died the other day. I was driving and my engine suddenly started making a deep ticking sound. I pulled over and with it running, popped the hood. The sound was coming from the front of the engine near the visible belts. I decided to keep driving. After about 10 miles that's when the power steering died. Then my battery light and break light came on (which in the past has usually indicated that something is up with the battery or something is drawing from the battery more than it should). THEN I began to smell burnt rubber.
What I want to know is this: my boyfriend says that it's probably the surpentine (sp?) belt or the pump thingy that runs the steering. First, I want to know if I can drive it to the shop or if that is a dangerous thing to do. The steering is really hard but I can still make it work. I'm a grad student and I don't have the money to get a tow, but will will find the money if I have to. Second, is my boyfriend right and will it cost a lot? Again, poor grad student.
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My 2003 Jeep Cherokee totally died all of a sudden. No lights, no locks, nothing. I am skeptical that its the battery because of how sudden this happened.
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So the other day, jump in the car to head home from my exercise class and the dash is all lit up with warning lights including the exclamation point, but other than that, the car seems fine. Decided to drive the 2 miles home regardless and then drive carefully to the dealer another 3 miles away. They tell me the HV battery failed and they won't be able to get a replacement until early April. So I'm driving a free rental car which is fine. New battery is covered under the warranty. Car has less than 60K miles on it.
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