Runs great in all gears 90'000 miles Now has a high level whine when. Accelerating even when. Still and in neutral. With. A/c. On or off sounds like a jet spooling up. When pressing gas pedal it gets higher in pitch as. You run engine up the lowers when you take foot. Back and off. All gauges fine no other problems with car. But. Worry some sound.
View 2 RepliesMy car has 155k miles and I haven't had any previous issues with it. I noticed probably 30k miles ago the beginning of a whine sound when the car accelerates. The noise has been getting louder (it's really not that loud) but I am wondering what this could be. I want to avoid anything happening to the car and want to find out what the problem is so I can fix it.
View 6 RepliesLooking for your collective expertise
2007 E350 with 5.4L and 4R70W trans. 107K miles and the fluid has probably never been changed ( my mistake - thought it was 100K interval - finding out from my reading that is def not true ). Anyway, following is recent development (last couple days):
Symptom #1: In Park/Neutral there is a whine. As soon as you put it in P or N, the whine 'spins up', stabilizes, and does increase with engine RPM.
Symptom #2: Hesitation (albeit minor) when starting from stop in D and R, with _very_ minor shudder. Sometimes feels like it's struggling a bit to move its own weight just until it's rolling.
Symptom #3: Shudder when accelerating in OD. No shudder when I turn off OD. It does not stop when applying brakes (a test suggested elsewhere). Also, the shudder does not happen when applying gas while braked in D at standstill. Only at highway speeds (enough to be in OD).
This all started at the end of a trip (90 miles or so in 85-90 degrees) when I was pulling a utility trailer (maybe 2000 lbs loaded). Not sure if related, but traction control warning went off a couple times. I think I have a axle seal leak that may be triggering that.
Otherwise shifts fine (no change in shift behavior or smoothness). Things seem to be worse when it has heated up. Should I start with a fluid change? Wasn't sure because there are comments out there saying don't do it or the tranny will just fail faster (I am skeptical).
I have noticed a high-pitched whine coming from the front end at high speeds. Above 90-95 mph any use of the accelerator results in a high-pitched noise, unrelated to RPMs. Past 120 it starts sounding pretty bad/loud. My guess is that the fuel pump is sucking so much gas that it is having issues, or the throttle control is just unhappy in that range.
View 4 RepliesI started to notice a slight whine when I turn the wheel. My fluid is at low but it's pretty dark and I'm not sure if it was ever changed or when. I have 100k miles. What fluid should I use?
View 10 RepliesLately I have noticed (when driving with my windows down) that there is a very distinct "whine" coming from the transmission area when accelerating through the low gears. Best I can describe it as is a quieter version of the sound a car makes in reverse. I can't hear it with the window is up, only when the drivers side is down. The car drives normal, and I haven't noticed an issues except I can hear this noise in the low gears. Has it always been there, it's normal and I am just "tuned into it" now, or is it a sign of problems to come?
View 14 RepliesI've got a 2006 Prius - yesterday afternoon my wife and I noticed a high pitched whine coming from the front (maybe right hand side) of the car - we don't hear it until we reach about 50mph. It gets louder as we increase speed and then trails off when you step off the accelerator and can't hear it all below 48-45mph.
We bought the car new and are familiar with the various noises the car makes, but this one is new - never heard it before yesterday.
Sometimes my 2002 Acura RL will start right up. I go shopping, come out a half hour later and it won't start. Has a new battery, no clicking noises. If I get it into neutral and push it the car will start. Would this be the starter motor, fuel lines, alternator? any guesses?
View 7 RepliesMy 2002 Acura MDX is an automatic. Frequently while in the midst of driving and foot on gas, the car will all of a sudden rev as though it is in neutral. The RPMs rise and in order to gt the car to continue driving, I have to lift my foot off the gas completely and then it seems to re-engage and continue on. What could be causing the "neutral-like" blips while in drive?
View 2 RepliesMy phaeton all of a sudden wouldn't rise up .I then took off the left battery terminal and let it sit for a while then put it back and then the car rose up and the back is on the normal level and the front is sitting higher its weird !.I have to mention that it seems my car has electrical issues because if it sits for about two days my key fob doesn't work sometimes I have use the actual key to open it.then once the car starts I have to reset the clock ,seats everything..Anyway is there a way to completely reset the whole system so at least my vehicle goes down.
View 6 RepliesI'm having trouble diagnosing a high RPM in park and neutral on my 2004 Santa FE 4WD 2.7L. Idle's great in drive and reverse. Occasionally when I start the car up it will shoot up to 3000 RPM until I shift into drive or reverse with a heavy thunk. Then it drives fine. When I shift back into park when I'm done driving, it will shoot back up. To avoid this, I just shut the car off in drive and then shift to park.The weird thing is, sometimes it doesn't happen at all. Sometimes it starts right up and shuts down with perfect idle. However, once I give it some throttle in park in these instances, the idle will jump back and forth between 1500 and 2000 and won't die back down to 800 where it should be until I shift into drive or reverse. Not sure what's going on.
I've replaced the idle air control valve, purge valve solenoid, and camshaft position sensor, but to no avail. I also replaced the throttle position sensor a few weeks ago, but that didn't seem to do anything, so I took it back. I'm wondering if I maybe didn't do the correct installation procedure. I still have the old grey TPS for what it's worth. Should I change this? I've also played with the tension in the throttle cable, but I don't really know how to get it exactly within specifications. I definitely removed some slack. I just checked for vacuum leaks using the cigar method with a hose from the PCV valve with the throttle body sealed with saran wrap, but I couldn't find anything. My method was shoddy, and I don't really know what I'm doing, so I wouldn't rule out a vacuum leak by any means.
I am the proud new owner of an 2004 GX 470 4X4 with 103K. I don't know how much cross over there is to tundra solutions. But, I own a 2000 Tundra, and I've been over there for a while as Listen Up Sonny. Anyway, I purchased the truck with two issues:
1. The 90K maintenance has been "deferred." I'm getting it into the shop for timing belt, waterpump, pulleys, and seals. I am going to do the spark plugs and fluids.
2. The issue I am still trying to figure out is that the dash shift indicator light for the High/Low gear shifter is stuck in Neutral. By this, I mean no matter where you shift the gear, the light indicates "N." I don't believe the transfer case is actually stuck in neutral since the car drives fine. I can get the center differential to lock and unlock. I am not sure if the transfer case will shift into Low as I couldn't really tell when testing it on a dirt low.
I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
97 Nissan Pick Up, 5 speed manual, 192k. The specified oil is 75w90. When it was new, I drained to factory fill out and refilled it with Mobil one 75w90 synthetic and a bottle of Slick 50 for Manual Transmissions (I do not use Slick 50 in the motor). This has worked very well for me in past transmissions. Anyway, at around 160k, I would hear an occasional whine when at a steady 55 mph on level ground. If the road grade changed or I changed speed, it would go away.
At the 180k oil change, I decided to check the the transmission oil level. It was bone dry. The capacity is 2.1 qts and it took 2.1 qts to fill it. I filled it with Mobil One 75w90 again. I have checked it at each oil change and so far, it hasn't lost any oil since I filled it. I still have the whine at 55 mph on level ground and it still goes away with any pitch or speed change.
Now my question, would there be any benefit to switching to a synthetic 75w140 or a conventional 85w140? I'm thinking that the 75w140 wouldn't change anything but the 85w140 might.
My 2011 Hatchback automatic has developed a whine in park, neutral and drive. ATF fluid level ok and changed by dealer every 25,000 miles. Seems to be coming from under the car. Could it be the transmission oil pump? If so, does it mean removing transmission to replace? I don't think it's the fuel pump. 62,000 miles.
View 5 RepliesRecently I noticed my car vibrates to left and right when I hit the pedal and the speed is around 40mph and above. The car runs smooth if I maintain the speed.The car has 176K and running quite good and I am about to have the timing belt service.I am just curious what could cause this: timing belt? fuel filter? The car is 2001 acura TL so it has front wheel drive.
View 15 RepliesThe car has about 53k miles. The problem has persisted since probably 20k miles. The whine is only after the trans warms up and is in drive or reverse, not in neutral. Whine is while the car is stationary or moving at low speed. The whine doesn't seem to change due to gear it is in. It does not change frequency with engine RPM. It does seem to diminish the more load the transmission is under.
Whine is probably not an accurate description, it sounds like a noisy pressure relief valve. Had Hyundai service look at it and all they said was all pressures in the transmission are normal. They could not find any cause.
It sounds like a bunch of small ball bearings running in a loop and can hear each one impact. Sharp raspy impact type sound.
You cannot hear it from the interior but it is quite pronounced while in the garage or if you hear the car coming down the driveway.
My Civic started to make high pitch noise when turning right or left, and also when accelerating. It makes more noise when I keep the wheels turning but ceases the noise when I let the handle go and go straight. When accelerating, it ceases the noise as it reaches 30 mph or so. It has got 93000 miles on it. It started the noise about 10 months ago and I feel like it increased the noise over the time. I don't drive everyday and I try to drive my wife's Prius when I drive since it has better gas milage. But this noise is quite annoying and wonder what it is.
View 6 RepliesMy 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 Prius Touring creates high pitch Squeak/Whistle sound while accelerating and braking, But if I put the car on neutral then the sound completely goes away. I have all the holes covered on the both side mirrors and this still occurs. The sound is constant for as long as I accelerate and Brake and the intensity varies with how hard I accelerate or brake, It also does that during regen braking when I leave the accelerator. What could be wrong?
View 2 Replies,I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra (stick shift) with about 104k on it. Was running absolutely great till about a month ago when I noticed that it was beginning to accelerate quite slowly. If I pushed it and got the RPMs up really high it would still pick up, but still not great performance. Also after pushing it a little hard there was a faint burning or smoke smell. Note, once it is up to speed say 60 or 70 it has no trouble maintaining such speeds. It just takes a while getting up to them. And if I really need to step on it the RPMs sky rocket with no real immediate increase in speed.
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