Bmw :: 2006 - Steering Malfunction Alert Intermittently Comes On
Feb 18, 2013
I have a 2006 BMW 530i (manual transmission 6 speed) and the steering malfunction alert intermittently comes on when I drive the car first thing in the morning, almost always at the first stop sign I approach which is about 1/2 a mile. When I turn the car off and restart, the alert sometimes back on but not always. I keep the car in the garage when not driving. It only has 60,000 miles.
I took the car to BMW service and was told the key didn't show the steering malfunction alert ever coming up, but the water pump alert had come on. This alert never showed up on the display. BMW replaced the water pump and the next morning the steering malfunction alert came on again. At this point the steering malfunction light had come on about 12 times total but I have never had any trouble steering or felt any kind of difficulty at all.
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I've been having some troubles with my 2009 Hyundai sonata GLS 100k 4 cyl. Its quite an odd issue I've been having with my power windows. It seems that the switches or relays stop working intermittently however it does it in an odd fashion. First the drivers master switch works for all but sometimes not for the front passenger up nor down . The front passenger switch/relay does not work at times, up nor down, the rear passenger does not go up at all and the rear driver switch does not go down at all. I can't for the life of me fathom what might actually be the issue other than, all the switches breaking at the same time(due to power surge ?) Another theory I have is that is that my passengers and I sometimes place cellphones in the door handle and may have somehow damaged the switch ? I know these are some whacky conjectures but that I can think of.
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My 2006 F150 was purchased by me in early 2009 with about 28,000 miles on it. It's an XLT crew cab 4X4 with the 5.4. Stock except for a leveling kit and an aftermarket head unit. It currently has about 59,000 miles and has been babied since I purchased it. About 3 years ago I started noting some issues:
A. Oil pressure dummy gauge is all over the place. Some times it will show no oil pressure. Other times it is all the way to the highest mark. Other times the needle has gone 180 degrees past where normal is and is actualy pointing straight down towards the floor.
B. Recently my alternator dummy gauge has started doing the same thing as my oil pressure gauge.
C. The backlight behind my odometer works intermittently, but mostly not at all.
D. My dome light will flicker when first turned on. It doesn't matter which door is opened or if the override switch it turned on. It takes several seconds to come on and will flicker like there is a poor connection somewhere, but stays on once its on.
E. Blower fan will occasionally stop blowing. Once the climate control switch is turned to off, then back to on it resumes working. This doesn't happen often, but does occasionally.
Fortunately, the truck has not left me stranded and I want to keep it that way. We are getting ready to sale my wife's Toyota and this will become her daily driver. I want to take care of any issues before she starts driving it. Are these all separate issues or is there one common issue which could be causing them all?
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I have a 2010 Elantra 4dSD 2.0 DOHC. 61, 522 miles on it.
I have had no issues with the car until about 2 weeks ago. Suddenly the EPS light came on and I lost power steering. Upon pulling over and restarting the car the problem went away. I went about a week, and suddenly it did it again. Restarted car, went away, still does this intermittently.
I took it to the dealer, they found the following codes:
EPS - Electronic Power - C1259 - Steering Angle Sensor Electrical
EPS - Electronic Power - C1290 - Torque Sensor Main Signal Fault
EPS - Electronic Power - C1604ECU(Brake System) Hardware error
EPS - Electronic Power - C2400 - Motor
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1202 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1208 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
ABSESC - ABS/ESC - C1211 - Wheel Speed Sensor Front - LH Invalid/No Signal
They reset the codes, and EPS Reflash. Recalibrated EPS. They told me if the problem comes back I would need a new steering column ($1500+). This seems a bit strange to me for an intermittent issue. It would almost seem to me that if multiple sensors are effected that they are receiving bad data from somewhere. Could the ABS sensors be causing this problem with bad data? I've also heard a failing battery could cause this type of issue.
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Seatbelt is on and no nav on my 07 GS. No dash light alerts. It happened 3 separate times today on the way to work.
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I recently have been having a few rather annoying issues on my 2010 Elantra.
First thing I noticed yesterday (note weather out is/was rather chilly and rainy) was that the red parking brake light was kind of flickering.. Not flashing, or staying on just flickering a tad and then going off; typically just when I first turn on the car. So of course that had me a little bit concerned.. Then when I got out of my car and locked it using the keyless entry and the lights on the car wouldn't flash, nor would the horn sound when hit twice. So I checked to see if they still flash twice when unlocking the car and they do.
Today I noticed that while driving down the road my car would occasionally unlock the doors by themselves (think its an electrical short??) and also the sound on my radio would occasionally turn up and down by itself (I know its a feature for road noise, but it did while stopped at a light too).
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The problem makes the car unsafe to drive. The quickest way to describe it is a hard pull to the left after a very linear steering feel. My perception is almost as something is holding on and then just fails and lets go and the car quite abruptly shoots left in a very unsafe manner. Here are the things I have done to remedy the situation, I replaced the struts with factory replacements 15,000 miles ago. At the same time i replaced the left and right axles, drove the car with the problem then last weekend, I replaced the upper tie rod arms, and lower tie rod ends, the sway bar bushings, and the control arms on both sides. I literally feel as though it is a darn near new front end.
Just yesterday I had 4 new Goodyear eagle tires and an alignment done and the problem became more pronounced and worst. I really like this car and want it to be a joy to drive as I know from others these little hatchbacks are a real joy on winding mountain roads.
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Sadly I own a 2010 Toyota Venza. For about 3 months(since May) I have been having problems with the air conditioner and front defroster. It works intermittently. Sometimes it will work for 3 days straight. Sometimes it will stop working while driving(it will blow hot air), but most of the time if I am driving and it works it will keep working for the whole ride. If I need to restart the car after a short stop it tends to fail, and then the next morning is a crap shoot.
It seems to work better when it is hot out, but not always. I had a front end collision in November, and had the condenser replaced and the system recharged. The defrost worked fine all through the winter. Since May I have had the system recharged 2 times. the second time with dye in it (no leak). I was told to change the condenser valve (150.00), and then I was told that was not the problem, and that I needed to change the compressor ($2,000.00 for the part alone). The compressor seems to work.
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I have a 2005 Camry with 110,000 miles on it. Bought Toyota because I thought they were supposed to last and be such good cars...speedometer, tachometer intermittently going out along with ABS light coming on...took it to dealer, they said it was the combo meter and oh by the way the water pump needs to be replaced. Then get a call that it isn't the combo meter but the ECU that needs to be replaced and that the part is $1982.00. I have serviced the car religiously at the dealer and am very disappointed to have such problems in a car that is only 5 years old and has been taken care of...
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Currently on a 1 week mini break, and the P has decided to play up. I have had 6 months of worry free driving before this new issue. I have posted before that the 6 speed in my P has never been the best behaved in auto, a bit slippy and jerky, at times, but also perfect shifts 60+% of the time, but I know others share this issue so not unusual - its usually ok when manually going through the gears.
Upto 110k miles now and on this journey had been about 10miles in on the motorway so fully warmed up. Had cruise on doing about 70 mph. Bascially started being very erratic and surging then dropping quite uncomfortably.
I knocked cruise off and observed that under full acceleration no issue. Under no acceleration (foot off gas) no issue. Only when keeping up with traffic, so partial gas, did the issue occur. I waiting for the next exit and pulled off, and it initially carried on even at low speeds around 30mph, then went away. Parked up. Started it up about 2 hours later fearing the worse, but had no issue since. Kicking myself as I have the laptop but forgot the VAGcom lead.
Rang my VW specialist and he said as there were no MIL lights, the only way to know whats going on is to scan the car, and if it does it again get it recovered, which will mean the end of my break. I will scan the car as soon as I get back, but concerned I could do more damage.
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I just returned from a 4K trip through 7 states and my cruise control will go batty and make you pull over and re-boot the car. Basically I am cruising down the interstate with cruise control on. When I come into a town I will either pull the cruise lever forward or step on the brakes to disengage it.
The traffic comes to a stop or slows to a crawl for a short period of time. Once the traffic starts to move again and we are back to highway speeds I can no longer use the cruise control because it is intermittently flashing on the dash as a malfunction. The only time it doesn't do this is when I am slowing down if I turn the power off to the cruise control system.
I stopped in the middle of my trip at two different dealers and there were no codes stored. One dealer charged me a diagnostic the second didn't after I showed him my receipt from the day prior from the other dealer but then he wanted to sell me a brand NEW MFD.
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Just purchased 2013 Azera with 14K miles. On third morning of ownership, all radio presets (FM & XM) were gone, trip computer display changed from "distance to empty" to "Trip A", clock time incorrect. Reset all of these and they stay throughout the day. Then, after sitting overnight in garage, all settings again disappear.
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we just bought a 2002 Excursion and it has a few issues. First off the door, the ajar light will not go out, however, the dome lights are not on constant, they come on briefly while the key is removed and do work with the roller switch. Also the radio doesn't shut off with the key removed until the timer relay kills all power. I have ohmed the door switches to ground all the way back to the VSM/GEM module. The door lock/unlock switches do nothing for any of the doors, the actuators don't even try to move. The auto headlights also do not function.
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I get in my car this morning, start it and in my MFI for a brief second or two, it flashes Wheel Lock Malfunction, going to do a vagcom scan after work. But sure enough, my steering column no longer locks.
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Brand new 2011 tiguan SEL with the Kessy keyless entry and ignition system. Today it wouldn't start. Had it over at my brothers house, vsited for a bit and then were heading out to dinner. The steering wheel light on the tach face was flashing red and beeping at me. Foot on the brake, finger on the engine start/stop button and nothing - the red steering wheel icon just flashes and beeps. The frustrating part was since the car is brand new, I had the owners manual on the dining room table at my house, an hour away It was just a few minutes after 6, so I was unable to get anyone in the service dept at the dealer I bought it from. Luckily, the salesperson returned my call (go Francisco!) and grabbed a manual from another Tiguan to tell me what the flashing light means. Basically, it means the car won't start. Very frustrating, the car has 268 miles on it and is only 6 days old. Having it towed back to the dealer for diagnoses and repair. CSB?
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My electric power steering went out and simultaneously the red power steering light illuminated on the dash. I pulled off the road and turned the car completely off and restarted. Normal steering resumed. I took the to the dealership and they got a code for "Steering Angle Sensor". The mechanic said replacing that would probably not fix the problem and said the whole steering column would need replacing. He said the steering checked out fine and passed all tests while in the shop and did not recommend doing any repair. He said it may never fail again.
A month later I had the same power steering problem happened again and was again able to fix by turning the car off then back on again. I took it to a different dealership for troubleshooting and they said they were not able to communicate with the "power steering control module." They recommended changing the module. I have checked for recalls and contacted GM and they said it is out of warranty. The car has 58000 miles.
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I've been having an intermittent problem starting our 2007 Passat 2.0T. Sometimes when I insert the key fob into its slot the car starts then stalls immediately. The steering wheel icon is displayed and the MFD says "Steering column lock malfunction". The car eventually starts after several attempts but I'm wondering what's causing the problem
My wife are both guilty of two things that I've read in the manual and I'm thinking that may have contributed or is causing the problem. We both insert the key and push it in to start the car in one motion. The book says to do it in three motions. We also do not depress the brake pedal when starting the car.
Needless to say we are not going to that anymore. If I may have done damage to the steering column and its associated parts?
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I just bought a 2003 W12 Phaeton with 55.000 km on the clock and a few problems that were knocked off the price.
The car is absolutely fantastic, so much better than my previous 4.2 A8, although I bought with a gearbox problem that dropped the price down to USD 8.000.
The gearbox issue is that it jumps from 1st to 2nd gear with a 'clock' and much harder when the other way around (2nd to 1st). Sometimes so hard that it automatically engages the "safe mode" with the yellow PRNDS sign on the screen. Once on 2nd gear and up, it runs smoothly.
My plan is to take the gearbox off the car and bring it to an expert mechanic on ZF gearboxes, as the VW dealer quotes USD 9.000 for a new gearbox.
Re the other issues, I have plugged in the VCDS after changing both batteries (a standard 90 Ah on the right, a VARTA G14 95 Ah on the left) which show many faults that I can't really identify. The problem I have noticed is that one button on the steering (the OK push button on the right) does not work and when it is pushed, the cruise is deactivated (?). Looks like this module will need to be replaced (VCDS says 'control module defective').
The other issue I have noticed is that the TPMS system doesn't work. On the screen it shows clocks on each wheel... and nothing happens. I guess it's the batteries of the sensors, so I am thinking of replacing them. Would this solve the problem?
I just realized that I did my last VAG-COM check before clearing previous DTCs, so I will do that now and come back to post it.
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I have a 10' F150 and the radio has frozen. It will turn on but only displays the compass, Ext Temp, and time. All three of those items flash every two to three seconds. The controls in the steering wheel and dashboard no longer work (volume, seek, media, voice control...).
Things I've tried that haven't worked:
1. Turning the radio off and on
2. Restarting the truck
3. Pulling any fuses associated with the radio in the sub fuse box not sure of the technical name).
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Since the day I purchased my Touareg, the heated steering wheel has worked inconsistently (usually not at all). I bought it in November of 2003 and thoughout the winter I brought it in 5 times telling them that it would not turn on when I started the truck. Of course, having an early VIN truck I don't have the symbol that tells me the wheel is supposed to be heating, so I have to guess... But with below freezing temps, I turn the truck on, push the button and nothing happens. After 5 minutes I push the button again and still nothing happens. Every time I took the truck in, the dealer told me there were fault codes in the truck saying that the heater was stopping because of a lack of required voltage. Several electrical fixes later (some parts blew out at various times and were replaced), it seemed to work. Then Spring came and it won't turn on until fall when it gets cold again... This past fall, I reported the problem again and they put several updates and fixes into the truck but they have not been able to fix the problem.
Today, I went back into the dealership and they told me this was "normal"... The note they put in was as follows:"Tested steering wheel heater in GFF. Steering wheel heater is not failing. Customer will only be able to tell if the heated wheel is working on really cold days. Steering wheel only heats up to 77 degrees."
When it works, there's no mistaking that it's on and it does shut off when it reaches a warm temperature. But when it's 25 degrees out and it doesn't warm the wheel - it seems to me that it's broken... Have such a hard time telling when their heated wheel is working?
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I have a Nissan '04 Altima. Last winter, in temps near zero, my power steering seemed to go out. It worked fine when it got a little warmer. Figured maybe a stuck valve or something on the pump. Works fine sometimes and sometimes it doesn't. Asked my mechanic to check this out when I went in for my last oil change. Not sure they checked anything (it was working when I brought it in) they recommended a fluid flush. Did the fluid flush, it continued to work for a few days, then stopped working again. What could cause this so I can have them check specific components.
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