Bmw - 328 :: 1996 - Overheating After 5 Minutes / Loosing Coolant - Exhaust Burning Out?
Oct 4, 2011
I have a 1996 BMW 328is and recently it overheated on the way to work which is about 20 miles i pulled over let it cool down and now when i drive the car after about 5 minutes it starts overheating and is loosing coolant but i am pretty sure its burning out the exhaust now the person i had bought it from had replaced the head and head gasket no more than 8000 miles ago with thermostat and housing and water pump and radiator so now i get no heat in the car both upper and lower radiator hoses rock solid and burning the antifreeze.
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I have a 1996 7.3 Power Stroke with 171,000 miles. I noticed I was burning oil the end of last year and changed the turbo as the seals were out of it and that slowed it down but did not resolve the issue, so i then moved to injector o'rings and replaced all of them, and after 1000 miles with the new orings and a new oil change i have still burnt 3 qrts.
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I have a 2000 honda civic ex that I recently bought used. It ran fine with no problems for a good month then the check engine light came on and it started overheating. I could smell burning oil and see smoke rising from the hood. I checked the coolant and it was all out. So I filled it back up. Drove about 20 miles and during the drive when sitting idle the car would shudder and jolt around for a second, after about 20 miles I could see the coolant that I just filled up was all gone. I could hear some bubbling sound, all of the coolant had burnt away and was steaming. I did some research and it could be a blown head gasket, but I'm not sure and was seeking how to fix it or to clarify if it was a head gasket.
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I have a 850 volvo 96 glt with overheating issue. I have replaced everything but still overheating. It only does it when I have been driving for about 15 to 20 mins. It goes just above 3/4 hot but not in to the red before it drops back down to norm temp (half way) it goes up and drops back down during driving and when i stop and turn her off i notice the filler tank bubbling even when the temp sensor is at half way (norm temp). Then with her cold and the lid of the filler tank, I start the car an can see bubbles coming up for the first 5min of warm up?
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I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
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Last night while i was driving my car began to overheat. I could smell coolant burning. I pulled over and opened my hood. The coolant inside the coolant pod was boiling. Some coolant lines were steaming as well. I could also hear a gurgly like noise coming the engine. This is a 1.8t gti
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Ok I have a friend with this car and said it kept over heating. I went and looked at it and found the source of the leak. It's right after the heater core. The hose comes out and into the engine. Where the hose slides onto the engine has a leak . It looks like the piece can unscrew and be replaced but I don't know what it's called.
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Why is it that after 15 minutes of idling the coolant starts to boil up and spill and the car begins to overheat?
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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Had overheating issue with the wife (she doesn't monitor fluid levels like she should). Now you can't operate it for more than a day or two before the reservoir is super low to empty. Mechanic coolant is going into the engine, probably through the intake manifold. Says investigating further will cost a ton. What can I do cheaply to figure out what's going on before I give up? I followed her when the engine was started from cold & could see water vapor (more than I would expect) in the exhaust until when I figure the engine reached full operating temp. It has about 225k and is the 6 cyl engine, btw.
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I own a 2001 isuzi trooper, the water pipe has been broken a couple times, so the radiator has been leaking so my car overheats. But I fixed it a couple of months ago, yet after I fixed it the car kept going through the water/coolant extremely fast and was overheating unless i put water in it every other day.
Yet, a couple of days ago, I was driving home, and i heard a bubbling noise, ignoring it i kept driving only to have complete loss of my accelerator and had my car rolling along the highway unable to accelerate. (And the last time I put water in the radiator was 10 days ago) now my car won't even turn on, and it sounds like it is having a very difficult time when I try the ignition. plus when I do try to turn the engine on, coolant is coming out of my exhaust pipe.
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my car has tge 3.6 motor and has 2500 miles and seems to be loosing coolant...
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I have a 2003 9.5 Saab with a 3.0 liter tdi. It has 160,000 km. The coolant light came on saying that the coolant was low, I took it to the Saab garage. They said that the ducts are compressing and that the water pressure increases in the engine and comes out of the radiator cap. According to them, it will eventually (within days or months) kill the engine. Saab does not make these engines anymore. I took the car also for an oil change which they say is not worth doing.
According to them, these engines have had problems like this (i.e. it is not a one off). We checked and do not see any coolant leaking from the reservoir cap but we see some coolant leaking on the garage floor. We check the oil and see no sign of coolant leaking into the oil and therefore do not think that it is a head gasket problem. We don't fully understand what the garage is telling us, is it a common problem ? How can we treat this ?
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I started loosing a bunch of coolant on my tdi which is still under 36k and there is no visible leaks anywhere
Took the car to the dealer last night to get it checked out and they were ready to send me back home telling me there is no issue since they don't see any leaks under the car
Either way after telling them that I have already gone through 2 gallons of coolant they decided to top off the coolant and ask me to drive 200 miles.
I drove 156 miles last night since I need to get this issue resolved and now the coolant tank is empty again... sitting at the dealer while I'm typing this.
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I have a 2000 passat tdi, over the past months ive noticed that I have been loosing coolant through my coolant reservoir overflow, my car has been running perfectly, my mechanic told me that its likely to be a head gasket problem and he put ceramic sealer in the coolant system, which was a disaster, the coolant pressure became much worse and told he me I needed a new radiator, which he fitted, but there was no improvement, whilst my mechanic was working on the car he noticed that when my car was running if he removed the oil filler cap the engine breathed heavily, my mechanic told me that the engine would need replacing,so I should sell the car as soon as possible.
I found it difficult to believe my trusty VW was in such a bad state, as it has only done 87000s mile and has full service history and starts and runs like a dream. Today I went for a second opinion, they told me that the coolant problem was because of a defected water pump, with most likely the plastic impellers failing, and the engine breathing problem could be down to a blocked breather at the top of the engine.
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Ok 210k truck runs great except I am loosing coolant into #1 cyl. Ive owned the truck since 120k and it has NEVER ran hot not even above normal. I guess due to expansion it will even fill up the cyl nearly hydro locking it, no oil in water/radiator and no water residue in the oil either. I had the intake gaskets replaced thinking it may have been it but it came soon back. I really dont think its an head gasket, has there ever been reported problems with the intakes on these trucks? oh btw 97 2wd with 4.6. Even with coolant getting into the cyl it still runs great just a little white smoke.... I really don't want to replace the engine I think it has a lot of life still in it.
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My mate has bought a mk4 golf and it is loosing coolant. There is no obvious signs of a water leak the car starts fine, goes up to temperature fine, only time the temperature rises is when the car has to work harder. (going up hill) then returns to normal.
Left the car today for a couple of hours and went to check the coolant level and the system was still under pressure when opening the expansion bottle top. There is signs of rusty water around the cars panels where the expansion tank is located. Previous owner said that it used 4 litres of water on a 330 mile round trip. previous owner said it could be the head gasket but there is no cream on oil filler cap.
There is no sign of water leaking from the heater matrix inside the car.
"2000" y reg mk4 golf 115bhp 1.9 gt tdi all standard
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I LOVE my Super Duty and with only 15k on it (have a company truck) plan on keeping it for a long time. I've had an EGR Delete and new Oil Cooler along with some misc things done to the engine and turbo, about 6g's worth. Now my mechanic at NCB is telling me that the reason I'm loosing coolant is that my head gaskets are leaking. I'm looking at another 5-7 grand which is a no go for me. I'm thinking of doing the work myself, especially since I've seen where i don't have to remove the body to do it.
Okay, here is the question, I've been having a hard time finding a comprehensive list of the parts I should be getting to do the job. Looking for a list or link on what I need to do it correctly and anything I might want to do while my engine is apart so I don't have to do this again?
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Ok, probably about 1/3 times i start my 96 f150 4.9 with true duals, the left pipe has a higher pitched howling noise, its a steady tone whether I rev the truck up or not it just gets louder. It will do it for about 6 seconds and then stop. The truck doesn't run badly because of it, but i took her to autozone to get her scanned and they said that the oxygen sensor on the first manifold bank has a slow response on startup. Is that what causes this strange noise, I don't even know how it would make it, it sounds much different from the engine. The right pipe doesn't do anything.
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Truck was throwing that collect temp different than oil temp light then started to heat. When I drove temp went down. When I stopped I checked coolant t as low and left orange rust dust around and under overflow I have topped off but can't find a leak. I clean it and it comes back I have a leak somewhere? Head gasket? But oil is fine I drive my truck 200 miles no issues?
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I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
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