Bmw - M3 :: 2005 - Won't Start Due To Too Much Gas?
Jun 17, 2016
My 2005 M3 has been to one mechanic and the dealership - nobody knows why it's not starting. The problem appears to be too much gas is being pumped from the injectors. Everything else looks good. I have had some phantom electrical issues in the past where my sunroof will start to move on it's own. Could it be un/related? Could it be the the drive shaft sensor?
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I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 74,000 miles on it, and it has had trouble starting for 2 or 3 years. When it started, I would turn the key and the car would almost, but not quite, start, and simply turning it off and trying again would work immediately. I had the battery replaced and the spark plugs at ~50,000 miles to no avail. About a month ago, I started my car and it had a really rough idle for about 15 - 30 seconds and the check engine light came on (registered an emission issue), but it ran fine. I had to get a routine oil change and emissions test anyway and they checked the spark plugs as a first measure. They all had some wear, but one was almost worn down to nothing, which the mechanic said was a result of the spark plugs (autolites?) so they replaced them with the Nissan recommended NGK kind. The next day my car didn't start the first immediately, but on second try worked. A week later I noticed my car sometimes rumbling on idle right after start again, so they replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump. Didn't work, I still have a rumble about 30% of the time when I start, and just two days ago the check engine light came back on (I haven't had time to get it diagnosed yet). Without knowing much about cars, it feels like the engine isn't getting enough fuel or something. Could it be dirty/clogged fuel injectors? Should I be worried that my spark plugs were worn down after just 25,000 miles?
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Recently purchased 2005 5.0 V10 TDI with a blown engine! and over the past couple of months have fitted another and have run into a couple of small problems. 1 being after the change, the engine fired up and run perfect for about ten minutes then cut out! and would start for a few seconds then cut out, by mistake, after i removed the egr valve on bank 2 and cleaned it, I forgot to reconnect the pipe running from the exhaust to egr valve on the inlet manifold, car runs lovely until its connected, then back to the problem of starting and cutting out! tried a blanking plate but still the same, my only guess is that the cat might be clogged?
Second problem, is the vacuum system, The pipe comes out of the vacuum pump into a Y connector, one end goes to the brake servo got that in, then the other end runs along the back of the engine, and in my haste i cant remember taking it off or were this part went or what it connects to it would appear it can only go one of 2 ways, down the middle of the engine to a inlet manifold or down the back of the engine towards the gearbox ? My local stealership have no info where to obtain a technical data sheet on the vacuum system?
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I have a 2005 Montana SV6 the problem is it wont start unless i push down on the gas also the remote start will start is 60% of the time when cold but if its warm it wont start both ways.
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OI have a 2005 Toyota Prius and it won't start.l I went to go warm it up so I could get ready to leave the house,I grabbed my keys and it beeped once I put my foot on the brake and pushed the start button all my lights went on and after that pretty much froze and I could not turn the car off nor shift to reverse or drive. It snowed Sunday I did not drive my car Monday.
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I own a 2005 corolla. Has 112k on it. Having issue with car not starting after driven to store and parked. Happened 4 times. Let car sit and it starts. Puzzled to what issue can be.
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Immediately after parking my 2005 Prius (around 127k) on my block last night, I decided to turn the car back on to adjust parking, and it just wouldn't start. I got nothing: no new lights on dash, no light on power button. Just the flashing red car with the key in it (which I believe is on as long as the car is off?) on the dash. The car doesn't make any noises when I try to start it, except for a sort of low mechanical noise when I step on the brake (which I think always happens).
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On Friday I went away for the weekend. When I arrive at my destination I noticed that the gas tank only have one gas bar. I figured I would fill it up before heading back home today Sunday. Then an hour ago I got into my car for a 2 hrs drive home but the car is not starting at all.
The empty spot where I was able to par the car was a small down hill. So I figured that the car was getting a signal telling it computer that the tank was empty even though it was showing a bar but the down hill must had affected the signal. A friend took me to a gas station where I was able to put at least 3 gallons on it.
Before I went to the gas station the car key would not get out of the slot and it was telling me something on the screen and the key was been blocked. So to the gas station we went then we put the 3 gallon and ZERO!! My car is still not starting up. I called a local dealership but the service dept is closed until tomorrow The person who answered said that there is nothing to do but to take it to the dealer tomorrow so they can reset it. Is he right on this? I remembered once before when I ran out of gas and I put some gas in the tank and was able to crank it up after putting gas in it. Then went to the gas station and filled it up. But this time nothing is happening. Do I need to ad more gas? What should I do. Also I must ad that after adding the 3 gallons the car panel is black and no msg is showing at all. Like all is dead
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My Camry sometimes won't start and no crank either. When that happens, all the lights on dashboard are on. And, there is no clicking sound, just a soft hissing sound. Battery is newly changed.
I have to leave it for several hours and tried to start the car again, it started without any problem. Or try to jump it, it would start too. What is the problem?
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I have a 2005 Mazda3 with a 2.0 engine & a five speed transmission and 94,000 miles. Since June the car has twice not started, and so far three trips to two different Mazda dealers have not resolved the problem. The car had sat overnight, when I tried to start it the engine it turned over normally, and sounded normal, for just a second. Then it sounded like it started turning over much much faster than normal and the turning over sound changed to the sound of a high speed "whirl" (I don't know any other way to describe it).
In both cases the car just turned over and over and never sounded like it was going to start, resulting in a tow being needed. I've now found out that the dealer started the car by pushing the gas pedal to the floor, then cranking over the engine and then very slowly releasing the gas pedal until the engine started to fire. In the three months in between the non start days the car has started fine and it drives fine, lots of power, constant power with no surges or bogging down. The dealers have checked the compression, fuel PSI, and run computer diagnostics and everything appears to be normal. They also removed the value cover and say that as far as they can tell the fuel injectors seem to be functioning normally.
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OK so been about 3 weeks and still cant get my car to start. So far I have installed a new crank position sensor, speed sensor located on top of transmission, new spark plugs, new fuel pump had battery tested and charged. I have tested the fuel injectors and get 13.1 ohms at all injectors tested the new crank position sensor and get 800 ohms. I just had car scanned with VCDS scanner and the codes that come up are. What else can I check.
[IMG] ....
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My 2005 Envoy XUV 6 cylinder, 63000 miles periodically will simply not crank. The problem is random, intermittent but maddening.For approximately the last month the car cranks in the morning 100% of the time. Occasionally, I will leave the office for lunch and the car will not crank. The switch turns, the gauges light up/the needles jump but nothing--no sound, the engine does not turn over--complete silence. Sometimes, I will turn the key and the car starts the very next time, sometimes it is 30 minutes, sometimes an hour. There are no codes registering. It 's been towed twice to the shop. Once there it cranks every time , all the time. They have kept it for days and can find nothing wrong. The last maintenance was replacing a cam shaft sensor. The battery is strong the connection are sound. Since the car cranks at the shop, they tell me they can not determine if the switch or starter are bad. I can find no pattern to this. I turn the key and there is complete silence or I turn the key and it cranks immediately.
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2005 Camry SE 2AZ-FE 4cyl 5 speed manual bought new well maintained 119000 miles. Makes a funny noise on cold start up when temp is below about 20 deg f just the first start up of the day. The noise sounds like a ZIP and is just for a second or 2 at the most. I can feel it in the steering wheel like a high frequency vibration. Seems like it's doing it at not quite as cold a temp but has been doing this since the first winter I bought the car new.
Hard to isolate without a second person standing out there in the cold, definitely coming from under the hood. I'm thinking it could be the idler pulley. Serpentine belt is original but has no cracks and is properly tensioned. Since it's done this since day one I'm hesitant to start pulling things apart. Car runs great aside from that. Mobil Super High Mileage oil 4,000 mi change interval, Toyota Filter always. The noise is just after the engine initially fires not starter related in my opinion.
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Like a dummy I left my 2011 in drive overnight and didn't go out to drive it until this afternoon. It wouldn't start. Tried to jump it with a Camry and still would not start, but inside lights did come on. Do you think it's the battery? Should my next move be to get a car battery charger and try to charge it? Battery looks new. Car is less than a month old.
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My '07 Solara w/40k miles has a burned out tail-light (LED). It had moisture built up in it and probably caused it. I opened the hood to check to see if any fuses might be involved (didn't remove any) and the car wouldn't start after that. It cranks nicely, but acts as if it isn't getting any fuel.
Previously this happened to me and it turned out to be the battery (even though it cranked well). So, I replaced the battery with the one from my other car - no go, so we've eliminated the battery.
Took my voltmeter and I have 12.6 or so at the battery. The tail-lights have around 11.91 volts. Pulled the fuel pump wiring and again, I have 11.91 volts. Hooked a 12v lamp to it and the lamp won't come on, which leads me to a short somewhere?? (I have unplugged the LED tail-light).
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This morning I pressed Start and all I got was the Red Triangle. This has happened a few times in the last month, but it always started up right after that. Today nothing. Well, a couple other attempts got some of the display to come up, but really nothing. The doors, including the trunk, won't unlock.
Since it has over 119K miles I think it might be the Aux battery, but it ain't easy to get to as I have to enter the trunk via the passenger compartment.
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I drive a 2005 Pontiac Vibe that occasionally will not start on the first try. It seems to only happen when I drive it, let it sit for a short amount of time (5min-1hr) and try to start it again. When this happens, it has always started on the second or third try. It always starts fine when it sits overnight. Is this something I need to be worried about or costly to fix?
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My Prius 2005 with 105K won't start. When I hit the START/STOP button while pressing the Brake pedal very hard, the READY lighthe blinks a few times then disappears. I used a Acton OBD II to find the codes, but NO DTC was logged. What could be the problem? I am thinking about towing it to the dealer next week.
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We have a 2005 Crossfire. The cars is great except at times it will not start. The problem has no schedule and does not happen often, although it does appear to occur only in the afternoon. There seems to be no correlation to a hot or cold engine. The last two times the car has failed to start it was after it had sat in the parking lot all day, parked at 8 AM attempted to restart at 4:30 PM (ambient temperature of 80° to 90°F). In these two cases after some time had passed, 3 + hours, the car started.
Times before, it had failed during "shopping" trips (in and out of stores). Once it failed while being driven in stop and go traffic. We've had this car at the Chrysler dealer many times. They only know what the computer tells them and they say they cannot find the fault in the cars' computer record. When we attempt to start the car, all the indicator lights illuminate but there is absolutely no signal sent to the starter when the key is turned. Once I observed the LED lights at the bottom of the instrument cluster did not illuminate when the door was opened.
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I have a 2005 Honda Accord EX 4-cyl with a very peculiar problem. The car will start and run fine as long as I don't have to shut it off and restart it. However, once I shut it off, it will not start back up unless I give it some gas. Once started, the car will not idle unless the gas is pressed to maintain revs. This happens when the car is shutoff for a just one second, and only when warm. Once the car cools down, it starts and idles fine.
I've tried changing the FI Main Relay and it didn't work. I've also flushed the coolant and changed the radiator cap which seemed to work a little bit. I recently cleaned the Idle Air Control Valve which didn't make any difference. The Fuel Filter has been replaced as well. There are no CELs on and the car has 267,000 miles.
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I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
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