My Camry sometimes won't start and no crank either. When that happens, all the lights on dashboard are on. And, there is no clicking sound, just a soft hissing sound. Battery is newly changed.
I have to leave it for several hours and tried to start the car again, it started without any problem. Or try to jump it, it would start too. What is the problem?
I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesWent to start my '11 - -maybe still w/ original battery...made a chatter noise and now no crank - -no start. Is this the battery dead ? I'd even guess maybe the starter's stuck ? I've got it on a slow charge... I had the ' Maint Req.' lite on- - thought it was for an oil change ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
The car was rear ended about a month ago, with minor bumper damage. A couple of days later it would not start or crank at all. I replaced the starter and solenoid unit and it appeared to be fixed. However, the car would not start or crank on a couple of occasions after the starter replacement. What might be going on? Maybe a bad starter? 2009 Base Camry...
View 2 RepliesBrother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
View 7 RepliesI have a 05 with 100K miles on it. I had the HPOP, FICM and EGR delete do about a year ago. Went to start the truck pressed the pedal and it died and won't start. It dies once while driving about a week ago but restarted. I have a Snap-on scanner for the data. FICM tested good and getting fuel to secondary filter. Batteries and filters are new with about 2K miles on them. Would this data point to a bad IPR?
ICP V KOEO = .25V
ICP V Cranking = .28V
ICP_DSRD 1251 PSI Cranking
IPR Duty 15% KOEO
IPR Duty Cranking 85%
I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
I have a 94 Camry with the 4 cyl. Replaced the Alt., Battery, and now blowing the 100 amp. ALT fuse. Replaced all of the relays under the hood. No power to the interior at all.
View 7 Replies2002 V6 Camry no crank/no start.
- Turn key, starter relay clicks, clock dims (headlights do not), no crank/no start.
When I arrived the battery appeared new, the connections clean / tight and I could put my hand on the starter relay and feel/hear it click. With a brass bar and hammer, I gave the solenoid a tap and the car started right up. We shut the car off, no start again, tapped the solenoid again and the car started right up... again. Bad starter contacts right? Sure.
Since the starter on the 02 V6 Camry doesn't have removable solenoid contacts, I went and bought a new solenoid (out of my pocket). I pulled the starter out, replaced the solenoid, re-installed and.... same symptoms, but tapping a new solenoid won't work...
Now I was so sure this was going to be the fix, that when I returned I only brought the tools I needed for the install... Frustrating. I did have an old meter in my truck that I used to measure voltage at the solenoid..
I read 8.5Volts to the solenoid coil with the key turned to START. I hooked up a jumper battery as well, and yes, 8.5v is what I read.... Now the meters batteries are weak, the readings it gives me are inaccurate, and I'll be going back Saturday with my good meter, more tools, and wiring diagrams etc.
Are there any common issues with this vehicle I could look for here that might cause low voltage in the solenoid's circuit; ignition switch, specific splice point, area where wires get chaffed or pins come loose in connectors etc?
2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
View 4 RepliesSo I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
This started when the weather got cold. The car crank sputters a bit initially then cranks only. I can get it started by turning the distributor sometimes. The day I got it started I checked timing and it looked normal from what I read (10 degrees from TDC).
The next day it did it again so after some testing again I replaced the distributor and the car was up and going again. On the third day the car started and ran normally and i thought the issue was solved until day 4 when this started again. I guess i'll check the fuel delivery.
Btw the only work done on this car in the last year other than oil changes was a timing belt (by someone else) the car a little crappy after that but started every day.
My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
View 2 RepliesSo, we have a 2005 ford F 250 6.0 diesel and we had the engine changed out from a 2006. Now the truck will not start on hot crank. It will start up normal when cold. So dummy plugs and stand pipes were changed out as well as the oil pump and turbo from the 2005 engine because they were still perfect. What else could be causing the truck not to start up after truck is hot. Does the engine number have anything to do with it? Or anything electrical
View 5 RepliesAs the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
Car in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.