I have a 94 Camry with the 4 cyl. Replaced the Alt., Battery, and now blowing the 100 amp. ALT fuse. Replaced all of the relays under the hood. No power to the interior at all.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Lexus GX 470, that i drove through a street with about 2.5ft of water the other day (there was no other option due to an crazy high tide coming up in downtown Charleston, SC).
This happened about a month ago. Afterwards I made it 500 yards and the car just powered off. While I was calling the tow truck (within 20 minutes), I was able to get it to crank back up. I drove it the next three weeks through Christmas without any issues. On Christmas I parked it and we drove our other car out of town. When I got back, it cranked for maybe 15 seconds, then died, and hasn't cranked since.
When I say it won't crank, all of the interior power and lights come on, but when you turn the key nothing happens. No clicking or anything such as a bad starter would cause.
I have taken it to the repair shop and they can't find the issue, and they tell me their scanner won't talk to my ignition, fuel injection, and I think emissions computer. They can talk to the ABS computer.
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My 4 cylinder 2009 Camry XLE has a strange intermittent starting problem. Twice in the last month when I tried to start it absolutely nothing happened. There was no sound and the interior lights did not come on. I suspected that it might be the battery even though the battery is only a year old. However, when I tried to start it a few minutes later it started with no problems. The only sign that something was wrong was that the clock was off by several hours and the radio had lost its presets. The symptoms were the same both times this happened, and between occurrences everything was fine.
View 6 RepliesThe car was rear ended about a month ago, with minor bumper damage. A couple of days later it would not start or crank at all. I replaced the starter and solenoid unit and it appeared to be fixed. However, the car would not start or crank on a couple of occasions after the starter replacement. What might be going on? Maybe a bad starter? 2009 Base Camry...
View 2 RepliesMy Camry sometimes won't start and no crank either. When that happens, all the lights on dashboard are on. And, there is no clicking sound, just a soft hissing sound. Battery is newly changed.
I have to leave it for several hours and tried to start the car again, it started without any problem. Or try to jump it, it would start too. What is the problem?
2002 V6 Camry no crank/no start.
- Turn key, starter relay clicks, clock dims (headlights do not), no crank/no start.
When I arrived the battery appeared new, the connections clean / tight and I could put my hand on the starter relay and feel/hear it click. With a brass bar and hammer, I gave the solenoid a tap and the car started right up. We shut the car off, no start again, tapped the solenoid again and the car started right up... again. Bad starter contacts right? Sure.
Since the starter on the 02 V6 Camry doesn't have removable solenoid contacts, I went and bought a new solenoid (out of my pocket). I pulled the starter out, replaced the solenoid, re-installed and.... same symptoms, but tapping a new solenoid won't work...
Now I was so sure this was going to be the fix, that when I returned I only brought the tools I needed for the install... Frustrating. I did have an old meter in my truck that I used to measure voltage at the solenoid..
I read 8.5Volts to the solenoid coil with the key turned to START. I hooked up a jumper battery as well, and yes, 8.5v is what I read.... Now the meters batteries are weak, the readings it gives me are inaccurate, and I'll be going back Saturday with my good meter, more tools, and wiring diagrams etc.
Are there any common issues with this vehicle I could look for here that might cause low voltage in the solenoid's circuit; ignition switch, specific splice point, area where wires get chaffed or pins come loose in connectors etc?
I have a 1995 Camry 2.2 that will run perfect for 2 weeks, them randomly it won't start unless you crank on it for a minute or so. Parts I have replaced are fuel pump, fuel filter, ignition coil. This problem has occurred when the engine has been at operating temp and at initial start up.
View 4 RepliesSo I recently went out to start my car one morning and it decided to just crank and not start. A few days prior to that I was on my way into work and it shut off on me 4 times but started back up every time, it was only 5 degrees Fahrenheit that morning and I was under 1/4 tank, so just thinking I got some bad fuel or moisture in there I ignored it and went on about my business until it didn't start that morning. Since then I've searched on here and found a couple people that had similar issues and I tried what they had done to fix theirs, this is everything from trying the second key and on.
There is no power at the fuel pump except for the sending unit portion, and I did check with someone cranking the engine, it just has no power... So I thought, relay...well apparently they don't have a fuel pump relay on this car? It's all controlled by the ECU? I decided to hook up my scanner to see if there were any codes getting thrown, this would show if it was CPS or the like, nope, no codes at all showed up. I'm completely lost at this point, and have resorted to buying a subscription to all data as I used them in the past and had luck, well this time they've got nothing for me that I've found useful. I'm about to send the car off to the first person that's willing to pay a fair price. Glad it's warm enough to get the summer car out!
This started when the weather got cold. The car crank sputters a bit initially then cranks only. I can get it started by turning the distributor sometimes. The day I got it started I checked timing and it looked normal from what I read (10 degrees from TDC).
The next day it did it again so after some testing again I replaced the distributor and the car was up and going again. On the third day the car started and ran normally and i thought the issue was solved until day 4 when this started again. I guess i'll check the fuel delivery.
Btw the only work done on this car in the last year other than oil changes was a timing belt (by someone else) the car a little crappy after that but started every day.
My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
The other day my daughter's 07 FSI v8 would not start; no power other than interior lights: no instrument power, no seat power, etc. Assumed a dead battery. Hooked jumper-cables, the fan start running, the panel came alive, it cranks, yet the air suspension lock is stuck on, EPS off is stuck on, etc.; assumed a dead battery caused all of this, since the alternator is pegging 14 and we have had a long cold spell. We drive it to the dealer an hour away to get the battery replaced; they test the battery and say its fine; no problems with the computer check-out. They say it must have been a random event; or something ran-down the battery (which is impossible, since you can't leave anything on).
No issues a week later, except I noticed the check-engine and the EPC amber lights are on. However, since my wife brought it back from the dealer, I don't know if these are error codes that were never reset from the initial event or if they are new. Will have to go back to the dealer to reset; check-out. My theory is the fan stuck on for some reason (since it will run independent of the cockpit power) and the battery charged-up on the one-hour drive to the dealer, thus all seemed OK to the dealer.
I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
View 2 RepliesAs the title says I incorrectly wired my jump start cables wrong when I was trying to jump start it. My car seems like it's completely dead now and afterwards when I did wire it correctly and let it charge for about 15 minutes no luck.
My odometer and just about everything in the car seems dead. When I put it in accessory the only electrical thing that seems to be working is the light where my ignition key goes into and all my regular lights inside the car. Thing's that don't work are my power seat and stereo/cd player
I have replaced all visible fuses underneath my hood and underneath my wheel as well. Does the Camry have some sort of safety fuse just in case incidents like these occur?
I bought a new battery but my car still won't crank or turn over. Some say it might be the solenoid or the starter. But I don't know.
Car in question is a 2003 Camry XLE I4. On rare occasion when I try to start up the car, it would crank but doesn't start. Sometimes two or three hours later and it would start right up with no problem. This has been going on for months now.
Well today the car all of a sudden died on the freeway. It was running like usually and next thing I know, it just died. In all cases no check engine light pops up at all. I got it towed back to the shop and the mechanic tried to hook up a scan tool but it couldn't connect to the ECU. Also when the key is turn over to the "on" position before starting, no CEL pops up at all. All fuses and relays are good.
ETA : It turns out the wiring under the fuse box was bad. The fuse box and wiring were either replace or repair. Since this is an intermittent problems, we will see if this is indeed the fix after a couple of months.
I have a major issue the wife 09 camry won't crank nor start. It all happened after i touched the alternator and heat shield with a rachet . She was complaining about her battery light coming on and flashing so I goes out to see and noticed the ark coming from the alternator so i reached down to touch the wire while the car running and hit both the heat shield and alternator together sparks jumped off of course . I shut the running car off then tightrb up the alternator loose bolt. When I tried to restart the car it wouldn't turn over. I checked most of the fuses and now I'm lost and stuck....
View 2 RepliesI brought the car home last night and shut it off. This morning went out and engine will crank but doesn't show any signs of fuel or spark. Removed one plug and grounded it to block while someone cranked it. No spark. I dumped a little fuel in the cylinder just to see if I could get it to cough or something, but nothing. I tried looking for blown fuses under hood and under dash but I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary. I pulled out all relays and tapped them and reinstalled. I tried disconnecting the battery to reset ecu and that didn't work either. There are some relays marked that I don't recognize.
View 12 RepliesIhave a 2008 E 350 6.0 , while driving i hit a small pothole no big deal the van stops running and coasts to the side of the road. get her towed. The dash lights show the PATS is engaged so it is no start no crank.
The 30 amp fuse PCM power relay is blown. when i replace it it blows as soon as i turn the key. im checking for wire chafing but so far have found none.
2003 crank no start, 196k bone stock truck egr still in truck and stock head bolts. Replaced the icp sensor and ipr sensor, both from ford. What happened is I got fuel then about 15 minutes afterwards my truck acted like it was going up a hill and was just losing power and shut itself off. ficm tested 48.5 volts all 8 injectors tested good and there is oil pressure. Had an egr fault code but I'm at a loss.....
View 7 RepliesNew to the forums, not new to fords. 1999 F350 7.3L Diesel. This has been a work truck and has seen multiple devices in and out over the years. I removed the last crap for GPS tracking etc from the last owners. The truck has worked well for a long time since until...
I'm moving slowly to a different state and so the truck got parked for 2 months. went to start it and nothing. the dash comes on and all the lights come on but when you turn the key to start the power drops and nothing.
Testing so far:
replaced the fender Solenoid
tested the starter motor and solenoid -passed
replaced the ignition switch
tested continuity of the hot and ground wires to the fender and starter and everything passed
When I shorted across the fender solenoid the starter works and tries to start the truck (unsuccessfully so far)
So the wire that goes to the fender solenoid is not working and where to trace it to and what needs to be fixed. Is there a relay or fuse besides number 30 that is in the way? where does the magical wire go so i can check its continuity?
I am stuck 800 miles from where i need to be and I am stuck here. I don't have the cash to get a mechanic and my mechanic friends are stumped. I do have a Snapon modus tester, what to do with it.
FYI the batteries are new and fully charged.
My 2011 6.7L F250 Superduty died on interstate the other night. Picking up throttle pulling onto interstate when a message came on the dash "reducing engine power" and the truck died. It will crank but will not start. It will start on ether but dies when that runs out. Has the following codes... p1249 Wastegate control valve, p0087 fuel rail/system pressure too low, p1291 & p1292 injector high side short to ground or battery (bank 1 & 2), p2291 injector control pressure too low-engine cranking. The codes are telling me I don't have enough fuel pressure but scan tool says I have 4000 w/ key on and 6370 while cranking and I thought 5000 was the pressure needed.
View 9 Replies1997 Toyota Camry V6. The car won't start, the engine won't crank. I've checked for 12v constant at the starter and that's good. Next I checked for a 12v trigger at the starter. That wasn't present at the starter.
I went to the starter relay. Pulled the starter relay and tested it by applying 12v across two terminals and checked for continuity across the other two. It checked fine.
So I checked for constant 12v into the starter relay, that's present. Checked for 12v trigger into starter relay, that was present also. Next I jumped 12v through starter relay terminal into the starter and the starter cranked the engine. Next I checked for ground into the starter relay, I didn't have continuity.
So I'm guessing it's either a bad ground wire coming into the fuse box or maybe even a bad fuse box? Is my thinking correct? Or is there something else that it could be? Maybe a main fuse or something, IDK, this is the first time I've encountered a problem like this.
What wire is the ground source for the starter relay? I found a wiring diagram from Chiltons (which I've attached to this post for reference) but I'm not really sure which wire is the ground for the starter relay. I don't have the car or relay in front of me to look at the terminal numbers.