Brakes - Lights - Nissan - Pathfinder :: 1994 - Blinkers Quit Working / Brake Lights Went Out
Mar 16, 2011
Nissan Pathfinder SE-V6 4x4 My blinkers quit working, but flashers still come on. All 3 brake lights also went out but tail lights still work. when the car is cranked and blinker is on there is a buzzing (alert) sound and the oil temp light comes up on the dash, there is no sound when the key is in the on position, only when it is cranked. Occasionally there is a crackle through the speakers that usually goes away when I turn it off. I don't know if the last part is relevant but I figured I would put it in anyway. Is this an easy fix or are there serious electrical problems?
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I have a 1997 Ford F250. My trailer lights will work, but I have no brake lights or turn lights. I have checked all my fuses and all the fuses are good.
I was told it was probably my trailer tow relay, so I bought it at O'Reilly's, but I don't know which relay it is exactly.
I just want to know which relay number it is so I can replace it. And, if this doesn't sound right, is there something else I should be trying?
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Turn signals quit working on my 2006 E-150. Swapped out the relay under the dash and it did nothing. Also noticed the brake lights aren't working. The headlights and taillight a are working. I pulled the fuses under dash for the lights and they tested ok. I did notice the flasher relay was making clicking sounds intermittently even when not touching anything.
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We have a 1994 350 ford dually. the brake light and the abs light came on and it has no brakes. replaced the master cylinder ... still no brakes. what next?
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My car at first had issues just not starting. Now it starts just fine but it stalls when I come to a stop at lights or signs. This past time it hesitated before stopping after it turned off. When it turns off the lights and radio are still on. I have taken it to a nearby mechanic and a Nissan Dealership....Nothing... Nissan Pathfinder 2003 SE ....
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My Pathfinder has the license palate in the middle/center of the hatchback door, with one light on the left and one on the right. I cannot figure out how to change the bulbs and my manual is no dice; it shows the process for a different location of the plate on the door, maybe a different version of my year model.
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I have a 2001 Excursion, 6.8 V10, with the factory fog lights.
The fog lights worked fine, until a few days ago until they suddenly stopped working when just the parking lights are on.
I can still pull out the switch, the indicator light does not come on but the parking lights still work. When I turn it to the headlight position with the switch pulled out everything comes on and works like it should.
I tried checking the fuses but I didn't see one labeled in the manual for the fog lights so I don't know for sure which one to check. Could I possibly have a bad switch?
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I have a 2003 santa fe and the blinkers are not functioning but the hazard lights are working fine. I checked the fuse and that is fine. Is there someway I can take apart the handle assembly where the switch for the blinkers are? Also, sometimes they would work and other times they wouldn't so that seems like a loose connection somewhere. The indicators for the blinkers on the dash do not work either so there has to be a problem giving power to the switch.
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work? WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON, RT HAND BLINKER DOESN'T WORK...WHEN LIGHTS ARE OFF BOTH BLINKERS WORK..
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My Nissan Pathfinder (1994) makes a "clunk" sound when I go around tight corners, usually only one "clunk" per turn.
The sound occurs on tight turns at low speed (e.g. on a round-a-bout: [URL] ....) as the weight of the car shifts and leans away from the turn.
The sound seems to come from the front end, near the driver's side wheel.
My mechanic couldn't work out what was wrong. He removed, greased and reassembled the upper driver's side ball joint and then gave up.
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I have a 2006 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer with Towing Package. I just recently bought a Trailer and when they tested my 7 pin plug, I was only getting Running lights and 12v Charging. Im not getting Left/Right Blinkers or Brake. There is NO power. I checked all Fuses. The problem is, I cant find the Blinker/Brake fuse. The manufacture book does not show one.
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I have a1994 Dodge 1500 Ram Hemi extra cab 4door. The brake lights on the bed of the truck not the high light will blink on and off and sometimes stay on the other day my son-in-law narrowed the truck and a trailer and the trailer also blinked but again not the high light. Also the cruise has stopped working about the same time this started. At one time it was infrequent now is most of the time. Wondering if it could be part of the alarm system or something else it is driving me crazy.
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I have a 2001 Pathfinder w/ ~190K mile on it. It has been used regularly until this past winter. It has been sitting for about 3.5 months and I'm just now getting it back on the road. The battery has been draining due to non-use but I charge it and the car will start. Today I started it and after running for about 2 minutes the engine quit. When I got in the car I noticed the strong smell of electrical burning but no smoke. I did not notice this outside of the car. Upon trying to restart the car the engine just cranks with no sign of trying to start (as if there's no spark). I suspect something (probably electrical) has failed while it was idling but what it could be.
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My 1994 Nissan Pathfinder will intermittently not start. When I get in the car and turn the ignition, the dash board lights will light up as usual, I can hear the starter solenoid click, but then nothing will happen. The power windows, stereo, headlights and air-conditioning will all work but the motor will not even churn. All I hear is the click. If I get a jump the car will start right up.
This has been going on for over a year. At first it would only happen every few months and I thought that by just disconnecting the positive from the battery and putting it back then it would start. It appeared to be doing so. When it started happening more frequently, I took it my mechanic and each time he would fuss with some wires charge me 20 bucks or not charge me at all and I would be on my way. It would be good for a week or so then once again not starting for me.
After the three times of my regular mechanic not fixing the problem and saying it was fixed I took it to a different mechanic. This man said it was my starter even though it will start with a breeze if you jump it. I went ahead and had him replace it. My car started a few more times but the next day the problem was back. After having gone to two mechanics and them misdiagnosing and me paying for service I didn't need, I borrowed a volt meter and the battery test at 11.5 volts. Some buddies said, that perhaps my battery being 14 years old was putting out enough power to power the cars electronics but not enough to turn the starter over. So I bought a brand new battery. I got four starts off of it before I experienced the problem again.
Another friend thought it might be the alternator not fully charging the battery. I believe we tested it at 12 volts but he said it should be more. Anyway, he and I pulled the alternator took it to be tested and it's fine. While we were removing it though we discovered the belt on the alternator was a little loose so maybe it wasn't charging fully. Anyway, we put it all back together and the car started five or six times, while my more knowledgeable buddy was with me. The next day of course, no start.
I probably did a bunch of stuff I didn't have to do in trying to diagnose this problem but at least I learned a lot more about my car. Anyway, ye wise car sages, What do you think is wrong with my old car, which for the most part has treated me well for all these years? Ignition? a short somewhere? If it's the ignition perhaps you can explain to me why the vehicle will start with a jump.
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I have a 2001 F150. Front brakes replaced a few months ago. Last night, I realized my rear brake lights weren't working. I'm not sure how long they've been out or if it's related to the bigger problem.
While testing the brake lights by pressing the brake pedal, the pedal seemed to give out and sink lower. While driving the brakes worked but only when I pushed the pedal all the way in. Eventually the ABS light came on and stayed on.
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I just bought my first Ford its an 1996 f250 powerstroke, and I am having issues with it. Every time I push in the brake both blinkers come on and tail lights and upper parking lights on cab, and when I turn on a blinker everything flashes.
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2006 F250 Diesel 125000. Got truck back from dealer pulling out noticed blinkers blinking fast. Figure classic burnt bulb. But upon further inspection no tail lights when headlights on. Ooh and a driver side mirror with blinker that has a crack over the lower light which is side the marker/running light, the light does work. After I Google the issue and see that the MFS is a big culprit I replaced it and have same issue. What I do have working and when:
Brake lights work when headlights off - no key in ignition
Brake lights work when headlights on with blinker on - no key in ignition
Brake lights do not work with headlights on - koeo, koer
Blinkers (rear) when selected both blink
Ignition switch?
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I'm on my way out and someone on the road just told me that my brake lights are both out. My rear running lights do work. Is this a fuse problem? What is the number where this fuse is located?
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I bought an as is 1994 Saturn sw2 and the blinkers aren't working. I already changed the fuse, and the bulbs come on with the head lights. I am not sure what else I could try.
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I'm trying to resolve a nagging brake problem on my 98 Pathfinder. In short, braking power is weaker than it should be, but I do not have sponginess in the brake pedal. I've bled the whole system a few times, and even changed the master cylinder - to no avail.
While performing a few tests lately, I noticed the following behavior: if I drive up a steep hill and start pumping the brake pedal with the left foot while keeping the right foot on the gas (to keep moving uphill), the pedal gets progressively harder to press and braking action diminishes accordingly. If feels a bit like when you switch the engine off with the car still moving (in neutral) and try to brake: as the vacuum in the booster gets expended, the pedal gets harder and braking action diminishes dramatically.
I don't think this is related to the act of going uphill; it's just that this is the only way the engine can develop enough vacuum for the symptom to occur.
This leads me to wonder if I have a vacuum leak somewhere (either in the line or in the booster itself) that only happens at higher vacuum pressures...
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