I have a 2012 Buick Enclave that the fuel gauge fluctuate. It is not in sync with digital readings. When parking down hill the gauge goes to full. After driving a while the needle will move up a little. Even when on level ground it will fluctuate.
View 4 RepliesEngine light came on, fuel gauge went to zero, and mileage left went to zero. Is it safe to keep driving? What is wrong? I will try to get to a dealer but had planned on taking my kids skiing tomorrow.
View 5 Replies1998 Buick Regal has strange readings on the gauges. 80-85 degree ambient air temp, low pressure is 60, high is 125. I have 100 lbs of static pressure in the system with the engine off. I am getting some cool air, but I would expect that the high side pressure is not high enough to cool well. Do I have a plugged orifice tube? Is my compressor not compressing enough? Or is my refrigerant low and causing the problems somehow?
View 13 Replies2008 hyundai santa fe. 106,000
Bought the car six months ago.Found out 2 weeks later we couldn't put gas in it. Dealership refused to fix it because we bought as is. So we managed to find one gas station in a 20 Mile radius that we could put gas in it.It takes around 10 minutes to put half a tank in. Shortly after that the gas gauge started to fluctuate from full to empty. And the check engine finally came on. Had the the check engine light checked.Fuel level sensor A was faulty. Took it to a local Goodyear in stead of the dealer ship. The sensors were 119.00 a piece and the labor was 145.00 to replace both. Had both replaced .Fuel gauge is working correctly now. But still having issue putting gas in car.
Started Ex yesterday morn for a couple minutes then all of a sudden radio went dead along with fuel gauge and digital odometer. I shut down then re-fired and all worked again.
View 4 RepliesI took my Enclave in to get the rack and pinion steering change out for a new one, which was about two weeks ago. I've had the car back for about a week, and the day before yesterday, the air stopped blowing out of my top vents, and only comes out of the bottom. Do you think this problem is related to the recent repair, or do you think it's completely unrelated. What the problem could be?
View 3 RepliesOn 12/30/14 my car had 6 spark plugs and a gasket replaced by a GM dealershhip in response to the check engine light being on. An air induction service and a fuel injector cleaning service was also performed at this time. On 01/26/15 I had to replace the battery in my car. After replacing the battery the check engine light was on and has stayed on. I read elsewhere online something to the effect that when a car battery is changed your car has to relearn the emissions system and the check engine light might possibly come on but should go off after driving awhile. I have driven approximately 300 miles since the battery change and the car is running fine. However, the check engine light is still on. The GM dealership is in another town and I hate to make the trip to have it checked if I don't really need to.
View 6 Replies],I have Buick enclave 2008 cxl. Up until 2 months ago the steering wheel was working fine, but suddenly the telescoping function on the wheel decided to quit. Now the weird part is that the same button that moves the column in and out, tilts it up and down still works with the latter function.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my fuel gauge, after a fuel tank cleaning it stops working. I check both senders and seems to be OK, but the digital gauge is blinking and the analog gauge is down to zero. I measure the resistance value directly on the senders plugs and shows 100 ohms at the end. I check the wires between the senders and both are OK. I need to know if the car computer must be resettled after a gauge failure, or there is only a sender malfunction. I want to fix this by myself. I need a service manual or a wiring diagram to do this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Buick LeSabre Limited, and everything was going fine with it till recently. The Fuel gauge started to go haywire as in the needle would go to full, then go back down to a Quarter, then back to 3/4, then drop all the way down to Empty, this is still occurring. At first I believed it to be the fuel level sensor, but then I started to notice something else.
A warning message came on stating that the oil level was too low, but when I checked the oil level it was fine, and last night when I was driving with the air conditioner on, I hit a bump and the air conditioner stopped working. I pushed the off button, and was successfully able to make the air conditioner to come back on with out having to restart the car.
The horn has also started to go in and out, and I do not know if they are all linked together by a type of computer or if they are separate.
I drive a 2001 Buick Century. Sometime last month (or maybe the month before), my digital odometer was on the fritz. There's a little sub-partition to my dash that houses my digital odometer as well as the indication as to what gear i'm in (PRND32). So it started fading a little, then on some days it wouldn't light up at all. I know the odometer is still working, because on the days when it would light up, it didn't pick up where it left off, rather it had been working the whole time I couldn't see it. And this started going in and out more and more frequently until now it hasn't lit up in about a month.
So, i take my car into my mechanic for an oil change (just had to guess at how close i was to 3,000 miles) and I ask him about it. He tells me that it'd cost so much in time and parts that I might as well not even fix it.
So now what? I'm fine just driving around without it. I know what gear I'm in without my car having to tell me, and I guess I can just estimate when to get my oil changed, although it's rather inconvenient. But what do I do when I want to sell it or trade it in? The longer I go without knowing my mileage, the farther afield an estimate will be.
You know, what I was thinking is that I really just need someone to run a red light and total my car. Then insurance would cover me and the odometer would be low on my list of worries. I just hope the airbags still work...
What would make the oil pressure gauge fluctuate and go to zero? I already replaced the oil sending unit, and changed the oil and filter, whats left? maybe a bad gauge?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Toyota Celica GT and I seem to be getting horrible gas mileage. I have replaced the Sending Unit. Also, I have attached a collage of photos that I was able to capture on my cell phone of what its doing to understand what could be the problem/issue.
View 5 RepliesJust wondering how accurate the digital gas gauge on the Prius c is? My current 04 Prius has a notoriously inaccurate gas gauge: It often gives me an incorrect reading showing much less fuel than I actually have. It is even worse in the winter.
View 19 RepliesAll those 4 problems, abs light on, brake light on, odometer gauge fluctuate, temp gauge fluctuate and air conditioner stop working, all happen simultaneously. They can also recover and work altogether again for a bit a time, and then all car runs good and after some time it happens again. Quite inconsistent.
Its toyota camry 2007,v4 , 95K miles on it.
Here is how it looks, another person just recorded here : [URL]...
Went to Toyota, they diagnosed the following codes:
c121
c2177
c0205
c0215
U0073
Can it be done more economical or better way to do it. Also while the ABS unit is at fault and car is running perfectly fine with the brakes working as expected, is there any issue having the car to be used in the meantime it will be fixed.
Is there a digital readout gas gauge so that when I am driving down the road I can see exactly how much fuel is in the tank
View 6 Replies2000 mercury grand marquis drives fine and then suddenly temp gauge in dash shoots straight up and then comes straight back down. This lasts for about 3 seconds. The engine will hesitate during these 3 seconds. Then it drives around fine for awhile (an hour or so) and then suddenly shoots back up again. I have replaced the coolant temp sensor and thermostat and coolant level is normal. There is no coolant in my oil or any signs of a leak. My alternator was charging a bit high the other day at 15.4 and I am not sure if that would cause the temp gauge to act up.
View 16 RepliesThe A/C on my hand-me-down '99 Lumina has never been outstanding, but has kept the Florida summers at bay. I recently turned it on again (I only ran it once or twice this winter) and the system was empty. I refilled it and it was empty again in 72 hours. I was hoping the seals had just dried out, but it continues to empty after several other attempts to recharge it, including adding 134a with lubricants. I added 134a with UV dye in it and the only leak I found is around the compressor clutch. I accept that the compressor probably has to go, but am puzzled by the manifold gauge readings taken when I added the last can. I just don't want to put in a new compressor and find out that wasn't the only problem.
With the system off, both High and Low sides read just under 70. (Normal Low and High side operating pressures for this car are listed at 42 and 340 respectively.) When the system is turned on, Low drops to 30 and High goes to 80 and there is no air cooling. After 30 seconds the High side slowly climbs to 200 and the Low side slowly drops to 26, with almost no air cooling. When the High side hits 200, it drops back down to 80 and the Low side goes back to 30. After 30-45 seconds it does it again and keeps repeating. The compressor clutch stays engaged the whole time. I looked in the Haynes A/C Techbook as well as online and can't find anything that resembles this description. If this is just symptomatic of a bad compressor, or is there more evil afoot? Also, while I have the system open are there any parts I should replace at the same time given the age of the system?
Car is a 2012 GTI 6MT with APR intake.
Within the last couple of days, my engine temperature gauge has been acting a little strange. The needle will fluctuate depending on if I'm accelerating or at speed. I've actually seen it go down several times before going back up to normal temp. On a couple of days, it will go up to about halfway to normal temp, and just stay there for a lot longer than it usually seems to.
There have also been times when the car is at normal operating temp, I'll go into a store for maybe 15 minutes, and when I come out, it shows the engine temperature is maybe halfway to where it should be. Then it will go back to normal after a few minutes of driving. I would think that if the engine is warm, it should stay there for more than 15 minutes, even if the car isn't on.
We haven't had any abnormally cold days lately, and I'm not getting any CEL, but I was wondering if anything to worry about, or if it's normal.
I pumped 7.4 gallons of gas into my prius plug-in and the fuel gauge does not register the gas going into the gas tank. The gauge was down to four bars and after the gas was put in, it did not change. The trip odometer has me at 114 miles left, on what I measure as 10.4 gallons. Toyota care was contacted and is trying to figure out what to do next ad are two Toyota dealerships who have never heard of such a thing before.
View 19 Replies2 weeks ago, I noticed the fuel gauge doesn't return to EMPTY when the engine is off. I didn't worry much as the actual movement of the gauge seemed accurate as I was using up the fuel. I figured it might fix itself during my next fuel fill up. Nope....continued staying at the fuel level and not returning to EMPTY. A few days ago, I noticed it went back to EMPTY when the engine was off, but it took approx. 5 minutes. Now it doesn't go back to EMPTY.
View 9 Replies