Cabrio :: 2001 - OBD / P1128 / P0411 / P0134 / P0172 Codes Came On
Sep 2, 2011
So I didn't pass the smog check for the new used car that I just purchased 10 days ago. Although my old car (same model), was five years older, I never had this problem. I was told that it is a gross polluter. These are the problem that I have to fix:
OBD Fault Codes - P1128 Manufacturer specific codeP0411 Secondary Air inj Incorrect FlowP0172 System too Rich (Bank 1)P0134 O2 Sensor CKT Inactive (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
How this happens?? 2001 VW ...
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Still having problems with my 2.4l 2002 santa fe. At stand still the MAF readings are within range. At 2000rpm it reads 9.3 gm/s. the info I have says it should be between 7.89-9.83.
When driving along at 50mph, 5th gear, engine speed 2000rpm it reads approx. 25.0 gm/s. at 3000rpm it reads 48 gm/s. Is the MAF sensor faulty?
It is now not running very well with fault codes P0171(fuel system to lean) That code comes up whilst driving at speed. I also get P0172(fuel system to rich). I got that one whilst driving slowly in a car park.
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I bought a 1999(b5) passat, 1.8t(AEB) 5spd, came with a DIRTY K&N so i cleaned it with the cleaning kit....
Car drove fine, then: started it up after an hour or so.. it was idling rough, then would spike(17-1800), idle rough, idle fine, spike....etc. just random. it went away for a few minutes, so i tried to drive it home... got 1/8 mile into 3rd... and car just bogged down so i slowed to stop and turn, went to go, it was idling rough so i couldnt drive, just "hobble" into parking lot.... i let run, more random rough, spike, fine... so i let it sit, off. when i returned, it was the same, but now CEL light on...
Codes: P0103 - Mass or Volume air flow sensor circuit high input
P0134 - Heated Oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1 (H02s11) sensor circuit no activity detected
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02 SE. Had my CEL go on, so went to Autozone to pull my code. Well, ended up being codes:
P1155
Definition - Air/Fuel sensor heater circuit (bank1 sensor2)
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1128
Definition - Throttle control motor lock
Probable Cause:
- Open or short circuit condition
- Poor electrical condition
P1150
Definition - Coolant path clog up for coolant heat storage system
Probable Cause:
- Clogged cooling system
- Failed water valve
- Failed CHS tank outlet temp sensor
The car is running fine as best I can tell. Maybe a stutter here and there, but I might be imagining it. Coolant isn't that old, and there are no starting / overheating / electrical issues present.
From what I've gathered, P1155 is O2 sensor and the other two reference the affected area. But....given that they all seem to reference some sort of electrical issue (the last coolant one sounds like it could be electrical), it makes me wonder if I have a short somewhere in my engine harness...maybe heat has corroded the wires somewhere. Sound logical at all?
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I have an 01 accent with a 1.5 engine. Coming up with codes P1123 and p1128. I sprayed manifold with brakekleen and didn't get. Any change in Rpms. Also sprayed maf sensor with maf cleaner. And still have same problems. Some hesitation when I start to go. And while I'm driving. My gas mpg is 25 mpg which seems way low. I just bought car and next day engine light came on with above Codes.
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Alright I might have made a major mistake and I need some input; I just recent bought a 2001 Jetta VR6 131k on it and at first I didn't notice so much but since I've gotten. To drive it more I've noticed it's really sluggish on take off and doesn't seem to shift into 4th gear. Also I started noticing a faint rattling noise. And the CEL is on with the codes P0785, P0411 and P1151.
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My Solara is running horribly. Its acting like the fuel pump or regulator is acting up as it loses power while driving and pumping the pedal usually does nothing. Its so bad that I cant drive it since top speed is about 10mph. If I just slightly touch the gas while driving I can get up to speed a little. It stalls when idling often too.
One thing I notice is if I stop driving for a while (with engine running) sometimes I can then drive away and the engine seems almost normal for 1-2 mins with lots of power. When the engine is cold it usually drives for 2 mins before these problems start.
This is a 2005 Solara. 4cyl 2AZFE gas engine - automatic - all stock - roughly 100,000 miles on the clock.
Its giving 2 codes: P0172 and P2196
I have looked up these codes and from reading I thought to try replacing the MAF sensor - no difference.
It feels like I'm driving a car with a bad carburetor again - really bogs out and laggy and sometimes even sounds like its backfiring slightly.
A bit of history:
- a few months ago I got the P0031 code so I replaced the upstream o2 sensor and all was good for a month or so.
- then about a month ago I got the P0136 code so I replaced the downstream o2 but it was starting to run badly before I could install and when I replaced it there was no change.
- last week I was surprised to see codes P0113, 172, 300, 301, 302, 303, and 136 but found that the battery terminal voltage was 10.5v so I replaced battery and those codes do not come back now.
- I'm thinking that due to the bad battery maybe the o2 sensors were not a problem? The upstream replacement made no difference (though it was running fine-just the CEL came on), and the downstream replacement made no difference (runs badly before and after).
My guess is fuel pressure, regulator, or injectors but its just getting too expensive to try.
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Saturn 2002 SL1 5-speed. My SES light has been on constantly for about a year (was intermittent before that) with the codes P0172, P0300 and P0507. The car also idle high (2500+) occasionally at stops. My mechanic said it is likely an intake gasket but would need a full diagnostic to determine and that is not a safety hazard to drive but that I am getting less mph. I can't afford to fix it now but I have an emission test due. Is there a way to turn to light in the mean time?
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First off its a 2006 F150 king ranch with the intercooled roush kit and roush tune. Last couple weeks its progressed from a slight stumble on start up, to now after its been off for a few hours it may start and run rough for a second, or, it may start then die, and then have to crank for at least 5 seconds before it starts. After it starts it seems to run fine. I've thrown the P0172 and P0175 code a few times. I downloaded the torque android app and did some data logging. Can you learn anything from the long term fuel trim?
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My son just left. We scanned his truck and got these codes.
P0172 Bank 1 rich P0300 random misfires P0303 cylinder 3 misfires.
I used the Torque APP Pro to check these codes. I went to live readings in the Torque APP and saw some readings for Long term and Short term bank 1 Readings.
They are all "greek" to me, and I don't recall what they were, but could get those readings tomorrow.
When I have done searches combining these codes together, I see changing spark plugs. P0172 alone gets me a different train of thought. Mainly CAT issues.
Also, his cranking to start is quite long. (A lot longer than my 6.0L would ever think of cranking) At least nearly 30 seconds of cranking. We are leaning toward first just changing #3 plug.
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My girlfriend drives an 09 corolla (1.8L I believe). I have an OBDII bluetooth reader w/ Torque App so to identify the issue I can get some data:
Last week I was driving the corolla and I got P0031: HO2S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1). Car seemed to run fine without any issues. My girlfriend brought her car in to her "mechanic". "mechanic" who will replace have of your engine only to realize that your gas cap was cracked. He apparently replaced 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (I'm still trying to confirm this and to get the part # to make sure). He reset the ECU and she drove for about 30 miles after which these codes popped up:
P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1)
P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
The car was idling rough. I reset the codes and the car was running fine until all monitor systems were ready. When Catalyst, 02 Heater & 02 Sensor are not ready everything is running fine and I don't see any error codes. I cleared ECU a few times. The last time I was able to drive for over 20 miles without any issues. Currently the only sensor not ready is 02 and car is running fine but I have a feeling once its ready the car will start having issues again:
Summary (if you don't want to read everything)
*P0031: H02S Heater Control Circuit Low (Bank 1 Sensor 1) - Car runs fine
*Mechanic replaces 02 Bank 1 Sensor 2 (Trying to find part # and double check sensor name)
*ECU reset and car runs fine for 30 miles
*P0172: System too Rich (Bank 1) and P0101: Mass or Volume Air Flow Circuit Range/Performance Problem
*ECU reset - car sputters and hesitates
*When all monitors are ready same codes (P0172 & P0101)
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so i had a litle fun in the clay today ..and now my trucks check engine lights on ..i have a code reader im running a P0172 P01275 P2106 Ive cleaned the MAF and changed my air filter...still running the three codes afterwords no trouble with turning over starts right up and drives with a normal amount of power....its a 2004 5.4L V8 ...
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2003 f150 5.4, 4x4 ... Truck is shaking pretty bad, idle bounces between 500 and 750, and its throwing p0172 (rich on bank 1), P0174 (lean on bank 2), and it looks like a misfire on cylinder 8 judging by that power graphy thingy. I'm going to check for a vacuum leak tomorrow on the PCV.
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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We just got a used 2001 VW Cabrio through a private sale and are unfortunately encountering the first issues a few days after.
It has a manual transmission.
When reversing, the car makes a clack clack sound.The clack clack sound is faster if the car reverses faster.The sound is loud when reversing with the the clutch pedal up.The sound faints, but still exists with the clutch pedal down.The sound disappears when the clutch stick is disengaged from a gear, even though the car keeps rolling backwards.
We know from the receipts, that the car had clutch work done in April.
Before hitting up mechanics, we are trying to find out if this is merely a clutch issue or if this could likely be the entire transmission, or whether we are totally off and its something else entirely.
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2004 Honda Civic with 166000 miles.
--Had Check Engine light on for a couple days and code reader said P0135. Parts guy said this means "Bank 1", my Haynes book calls this code for " Primary Sensor 1" Is this the same as "Upstream"?
--Replaced O2 sensor (Denso 192400-1160 05F12) myself with a new one (Bosch 15710). Fit perfectly, plugged right in.
--Check engine light goes off for about 5 minutes but comes back on with code P0134.
What should I do now? I replaced the sensor closer to the engine before the catalytic converter. Very easy to reach from the top. I rented the correct tools and did not damage or force anything. Is there a second O2 sensor after the cat that is not so easy to reach? Was that the one I needed to replace? Did I misunderstand the meaning of "upstream" or "Bank 1"?
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2005 Hyundai Accent stalled on freeway today. It was running fine and suddenly stalled without warning. I tried to restart but the engine doesn't turnover just makes a electrical "weeee" sound. Battery works and lights work. Code reader gave P0340 and P0134 codes.
P0340 Camshaft position sensor "A" circuit malfunction bank 1 single sensor
probable causes:
-Open of short circuit condition
-poor electrical connection
-Faulty CMP sensor
-Engine Mechanical fault
P0134-Heated O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 1 (H02S11) circuit no activity detected
Probable cause:
-Poor electrical connection
-Rich or lean Air/Fuel ratio
-Engine mechanical condition
-Faulty H02S11 (Bank 1 sensor 1)
I'd like to fix it myself; where should I start?
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P1128. Have had the code over and over!! No vacuum leaks and I've been through 2 MAFs. I've cleaned the throttle body, changed intake manifold gasket, changed plugs and wires, and put a new air filter in.
The code comes back every few months or so and the car becomes undriveable. Last changed my MAF back in December and the code is back already. What am I missing?
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Car is a 2000 Passat Wagon 1.8T ATW FWD
I get the P1128 code and Emissions Workshop warning most of the year, then it cycles off in the summer. It went off yesterday, back on today, and I imagine it will go off again for weeks/months as the weather heats up.
Things I've tried so far:
Replaced MAF sensor
Replaced MAF wiring harness
Replaced front 02 sensor
Replaced air filter
Replaced cracked vacuum tubes, at least those accessible from the top. Some of the hidden lengths theoretically could be at issue but a mechanic said they were ok.
What I've not replaced is the secondary air pump. (Mechanic told me it's dry and checks okay.)
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I have a 2000 accent 1.5L I was having issues with the maf. I was running a cold air intake but started having issues. I removed the intake and replaced with stock config. I cleaned the maf and re-installed. The car will run fine, build rpm and return to idle with no problems. The second I put it in gear and try to move the engine will misfire and rattle itself until it quits. I have been driving around for approx a week with the maf disconnected seeing as it seems to run alright, just lacks a bit of power it seems.
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I found on internet loads of comment about this error code, but in my case the only bad thing is with fuel consumption - about 9-10 litres (!) for 100 km on motorway. Normaly it should be about 6-8 litres.
The error means: "P1128 is "Long Term Fuel Trim Too Lean". Which means the air/fuel mixture is leaner than the HO2S can compensate for."
Idle is working correctly (i think thats to do with MAF), engine start without any problems and overall car running smooth.
What can cause a bad fuel consumption? Is anything to do with a lambda (O2) sensor or it could be something else?
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