Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2001 - Grinding On Downshift And Coasting / Deceleration
Apr 15, 2011
Replaced the clutch on my son's 01 Cavalier 4 cyl. Replaced Clutch as it was slipping, and replaced hydraulic throw out bearing/slave cylinder at same time. New throw out bearing failed after only 500 miles or so, seal broken, started grinding on down shift and coasting (deceleration) followed by leak and no pedal. Replaced with new Slave Cylinder and Throw out bearing, the new one is starting to show same grinding noise on shifting and deceleration. What could cause this? Used the spline alignment tool to adjust the plate on center the right way. Could the pressure plate springs be off center? The flywheel was purple could it be warped and throwing the pressure plate springs off center thereby causing them to rub against the I.D. of the Throw Out Bearing slave cylinder seal?
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The car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
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I just started hearing sort of a howling noise from front end of my 98 cavalier. I also feel a bit of a grinding sensation through my wheel when I start slowing down. I lifted the front tires one by one, checked the play, there's a little on left side and couldn't really feel anything on the right side. I then put the vehicle in neutral and then spun the tires by hand. The right tire spun with ease and the left side was a bit harder to spin. Just wondering if it is the bearings wearing out or if it could be cv joint problems. I also did check the boots on the cv joints for cracks in them but couldn't find anything wrong.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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This is my daughter in laws car. The rough idle, check engine light and trac light all happened at the same time. She was in a parking lot and drove over a speed bump when all the problems started. The check engine light flashes when driving above 25mph. It's on solid at idle. I found the EVAP purge valve plastic nipple was busted off so I replaced the assembly. I was totally surprised when this had no effect on the symptoms.
I find it strange that the car was running fine and then has all these symptoms after going over a speed bump.
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When working, all is OK. When not, I have no high or low beams, a weak and barely moving wipers with a lot of buzzing coming from wiper motor area and drivers door lock tries to lock (or at least the lock sound is coming from drivers door). The DRL's function normally. The problems are definitely interlinked and it is very intermittent and can come and go several times in a few minutes.
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I have a 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2. I have owned it for every day and every mile (204K) since I bought it new in April of 2001. I have had many mechanical disasters and problems mostly starting a couple of years ago - and a lot of them I have worked on or fixed and/or replaced the part myself.
The transmission fluid in this car has never been changed, looked-at, drained, added, etc....because I was told that it didn't need it. The manual says the same thing. For as long as I've had this car, it has had a intermittent rattle noise that I figured was just the "Getrag rattle" - so I didn't pay much attention to it. But over the past year - especially the last 6 months - this rattle has just gotten totally insane and out of control. It is now a constant loud rattle whenever the car is in gear - especially starting out in 1st or 2nd. I mentioned this to someone and they asked when the last time the fluid was changed and said that would fix the problem - and couldn't believe that the fluid had never been changed after 15 years and 200K miles.
This model has no dipstick. There is a big red vent cap and I think I found a HEX plug close to it, but before I go out and buy the wrong size hex key - what size these are and if they are even what I am looking for to fill/check/drain it? So frustrated. Also - since I can't find DEXRON 3 anywhere am I supposed to use this DEX/Mercon stuff?
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About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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Passengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
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I drive a 2001 Chevy Prizm with 90,000 miles on it. Lately, when I'm accelerating over about 30 to 40 mph, my engine starts to make a grinding noise, that gets worse the faster I go, or the more pressure I apply. The noise also happens when I'm going up hill. What's causing this noise, so I don't look like an idiot when I take it in to my mechanic?
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2006 Sonata GLS V6, 105K miles
I have a weird rubbing/grinding noise that seems to be coming from the front, passenger side of my car. It's a very weird rubbing/grinding noise, almost rubber like, but somewhat metallic. I recently got new tires and almost thought it had something to do with that, but that seems unlikely.
When decelerating from about 20 to 15 mph, the noise starts. It's a cyclic noise that is proportional to the speed of the car. It occurs while going in a straight line or while turning, but gets significantly louder in a turn. It instantly stops as soon as I hit the accelerator at any point.
Another important fact is that the noise does not happen when the car is cold. You have to drive about 5-10 minutes for it to start.
I just bought new KYB shocks/struts that I planned to install (probably not myself although I am tempted), so now is probably a good time to dig into the problem. I replaced brake pads and turned the rotors within the last year. I wouldn't be surprised if the suspension needs some additional TLC as I have not replaced any components and have owned it since it had 13K on the odometer.
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2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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I have an 08 ES 350 and when driving and coasting between 20 - 60 mph, there is a rubbing, grinding, low frequency sound that I feel coming through the gas pedal. What is causing it?
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2004 Sienna LE with 193,500 miles. While driving home tonight I started hearing a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. The noise goes away on acceleration and braking. Whenever I take my foot off the gas it starts to make the noise again. It sounds almost like a brake noise but I just replaced the caliper bracket this past weekend and the brakes look great (less than 20,000 miles on caliper, rotor and pads). I suspect a bearing may be going bad and want to know if these symptoms match a bad bearing. The wheel bearings are all original.
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I have a 2006 Chevy Malibu Max with automatic transmission, 129,000 miles. It's got a higher pitched whine that increases as I accelerate between first and second gear and between 2nd and 3rd. I can't hear once it's in 3rd gear. It sounds like an RC car or early video game race car sound. I can hear it winding down as I slow down through those gears. It's also audible when the car is in neutral or park, but not then the brakes are fully applied. I can't really hear it in reverse.
I bought it used with 65,000 miles on it. I'm not sure what was done before that as far as maintenance/preventative maint. I did get a transmission flush three years ago (don't know the mileage at that time). I don't think this will impact things in any way, but I just changed the spark plugs and wires a few weeks ago.
It has a rough/shuddery idle (but doesn't feel like it's goign to stall out) and seems to be riding rougher than usual lately. I feel it more in the seat/overall car vibrations than through the steering wheel.
Transmission Oil Pump? Planetary Gear Set? I was really hoping to not have an expensive repair, but I am fearing the worst.
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2006 SAAB SUV AWD, Right front wheel rubbing/grinding. When cold, coasting and braking. Not continuous. It has completely died while turning. New tires all around. Had both front brakes replaced x2 in 2 years. Still rubbing feel in right front.
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I have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
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My 03 F250 7.3 is making a grinding noise when I let my foot off the accelerator and coast in 4x4, I replaced the hubs with new warn premium hubs and it is still making the noise. The noise does not occur when I take it out of 4x4.
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