Cavalier - Chevrolet :: Coasting With Stalled Engine With Automatic Transmission In Gear
Sep 29, 2013
The car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
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I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
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Replaced the clutch on my son's 01 Cavalier 4 cyl. Replaced Clutch as it was slipping, and replaced hydraulic throw out bearing/slave cylinder at same time. New throw out bearing failed after only 500 miles or so, seal broken, started grinding on down shift and coasting (deceleration) followed by leak and no pedal. Replaced with new Slave Cylinder and Throw out bearing, the new one is starting to show same grinding noise on shifting and deceleration. What could cause this? Used the spline alignment tool to adjust the plate on center the right way. Could the pressure plate springs be off center? The flywheel was purple could it be warped and throwing the pressure plate springs off center thereby causing them to rub against the I.D. of the Throw Out Bearing slave cylinder seal?
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My brother has a 2000 Chevy Cavalier, not sure what engine. It killed on him on the freeway last night and we had it towed. It tried to start, it has spark and is getting gas. He said that he had no "check engine light" before it stalled. We are sure it has plenty of gas in the tank.
After the tow, when we pulled the key out of the ignition, EVERY stratis light stayed on (Emergency Brake, check engine, ABS, oil ,etc..) We checked to be sure the ignition WAS in the off position and tried the key numerous times, turning it to on or acc, then to off and pulling the key. Still the statis lights stayed on after pulling the key.
I'm thinking the Ignition switch is bad. Also, when we were turning it over....I think it felt a little rough....like slightly out of time. But then It's not my car, so I'm not familiar with how it sounds starting.I'm pretty good with cars and engines, and do most of my own work, but this has me stumped.
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I recently bought a 2001 Chevy Cavalier with 85,000 miles in October 2014. Since that time, I've fixed the brakes, done emissions testing, etc. But recently the car started to act funny: the trac off and engine light would appear and then the shift between 1 / 2 gear or 2 / 3 would rev up high. I'd stop, pull over, turn off, turn on, and then continue. I was worried, so I took and the mechanic changed the transmission fluid.
However, the problem is getting worse. I was driving, the trac off and engine light came on, and about 30-secs later the oil and battery light appear and the car shuts off. I took it back in and they ran tests to check it, but what the problem could be. I don't drive my car very frequently, mostly weekends to visit my family who live about an hour 1/2 from me. But so far every time I drive it, the car stops.
Some suggestions I've heard:-- low fuel injection?-- wheel speed sensors
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I notice my instantaneous gas millage goes up if I coast in neutral in my new Volvo V50; say when cruising up to stop lights or coming down a hill. I appear to be saving gas, but am I damaging my automatic transmission?
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe (4 cyl 2.7 L FWD) with only 42,000 miles on it. Coming home from work I was stopped at a stop sign and after stepping on the gas (halfway thru the intersection) my engine stalled - coasting to a stop (while crossing a very busy intersection I might add). After putting it in park I try to restart it - the engine cranks over as usual and starts but roughly 4 to 7 seconds afterwards it stalls again. I did this 4 or 5 times again with the same results. I'm almost positive the check engine light is on. The next day I popped the hood to see if the belt broke but its fine so I tried to start it again (same results engine starts but after 4 to 7 sec. stalls again). Before this engine trouble I haven't had one ounce of trouble from my Santa Fe. Not to be funny but yes there is a half a tank of gas in it... with plenty of fluids in it. After some research I kind of think its the Crank-shaft sensor (seems to be a problem with them in the Santa Fe's).
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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So i went to put my car in gear and the clutch is loose. car turns on just fine. there is clutch fluid. I've never had this problem till this cold weather popped up.what do i do? wait till the car warms up? I can put it in gear when the car is off so idk why it does that.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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I have a 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2. I have owned it for every day and every mile (204K) since I bought it new in April of 2001. I have had many mechanical disasters and problems mostly starting a couple of years ago - and a lot of them I have worked on or fixed and/or replaced the part myself.
The transmission fluid in this car has never been changed, looked-at, drained, added, etc....because I was told that it didn't need it. The manual says the same thing. For as long as I've had this car, it has had a intermittent rattle noise that I figured was just the "Getrag rattle" - so I didn't pay much attention to it. But over the past year - especially the last 6 months - this rattle has just gotten totally insane and out of control. It is now a constant loud rattle whenever the car is in gear - especially starting out in 1st or 2nd. I mentioned this to someone and they asked when the last time the fluid was changed and said that would fix the problem - and couldn't believe that the fluid had never been changed after 15 years and 200K miles.
This model has no dipstick. There is a big red vent cap and I think I found a HEX plug close to it, but before I go out and buy the wrong size hex key - what size these are and if they are even what I am looking for to fill/check/drain it? So frustrated. Also - since I can't find DEXRON 3 anywhere am I supposed to use this DEX/Mercon stuff?
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I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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Has experienced transmission seem to jump back in gear after coasting at low speeds in traffic. When I push on the pedal after coasting it jumps back in gear and is very frustrating. I have had it checked out at dealer and they told me they re-programmed the Transmission which scared me. But that didn't fix the problem. Will be taking it in one more time before I decide what to do.
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Just this morning I noticed that the first shift my automatic transmission makes is not so smooth. Almost like I'm getting a slight shove from behind. Repeated at every stoplight. I know I'll be calling the dealer tomorrow, but am hoping to get ahead of the curve and be prepared for what it might entail.
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1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine. I have never seen this!
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Was coasting down a hill(manual transmission) and the car stalled out on me. Tried for a couple minutes to restart it with no luck, the engine turns over but just wont start.
As I post this I still haven't got the car home so I haven't been able to do any trouble shooting yet. Once I get it home I'll ceck for fuel and spark, and from what I have read already people have said it could be the Crankshaft Sensor.
2001 Accent 1.5 - Manual
Up until this there has been no signs of any issues with running or starting...
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I have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
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So couple of days ago, I went shopping. no issues. after shopping i fired it up, no issues, put it reverse, car was shaking, put the car in neutral. No issues, put the car in drive car is shaking again. i started to drive no shaking, however the car felt like it had no power, I only felt shaking during switching from R TO N TO D. So I change to manual mode and see the gear was 3rd. i was not able to change gears manually, neither did the tranny switched them for me. I drove home about a 3 miles. shut the car off, restart it...gears and car drives normal. Took to dealership, they checked it...and of course no issues. Ihave 44k miles and 50k warranty expires next week, nice, huh? got another year of powetrain warranty left.
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2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
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