Cavalier - Chevrolet :: Transmission Slipping In Cold Weather / CEL Codes P0741 And P2761
Feb 21, 2011
I have a 2005 Cavalier (60,000 miles) that's been having some transmission slipping in the cold weather. As the weather has warmed up, the issue has lessened but not quite gone away. We added a little transmission fluid, but I haven't yet had a chance to replace the fluid/filter. The check engine light has been on in my car since I've owned it... the shop I bought it from replaced the solenoid, but the code still hung around. Everything I've googled tells me that the issue could be the wiring or could be the solenoid needing replacing. My real question is... how soon do I need to act on this? p0741 p2761
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I have a 1991 Chevy Cavalier. It usually runs fine, but recently the weather has been colder and it is having issues when I start it in the morning. Granted, I live in Florida so "cold" is only in the 40s. The car will start, but then it immediately dies. I had taken to a mechanic (a family friend) and he said that it was fine the whole time he had it and didn't recommend any repairs. It was running fine for about 2 weeks and now it is doing it again. It does appear to only be doing this when it is cold out, because the issue began when we got our first cold snap.
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For the last few weeks I have noticed my transmission overheating a bit, nothing bad, but I have just been running around town local so no drives over about 15-20 mins.
Well, Friday night I went out to see a friends band play about 40 mins away, My trans temp climbed steadily the whole way out there, peaking at 226 by the time I got out there. I kinda took my time getting home hopping bars to give the trans a break to cool off.
Did some diagnosis today, first thing I did was unhook the line going to the rear of the transmission and did the bucket flow test. I fired it up and fluid came pouring out of the line which goes into the rear of the trans, nothing really came out of the rear of the trans, it was all out of the line.
So that tells me that its getting flow through the coolers. I didn't measure the amount like some do, but I can tell you it looked like a strong steady flow.
I made sure the fluid levels are proper as well which they are, it was maybe a 1 quart low which shouldn't effect anything. I also inspected the coolers and everything appears to be clean with no airflow restrictions. Took it out for a brief drive again and it climbed up to 147, maybe 5 miles out 5 miles back. Ambient temp is 62 today.
I am getting multiple codes on my Edge Evo which I have had set to stock settings since I bought the truck. Codes I get that concern me relevant to the trans are P0741 and P0743. Both seem to relate to the torque converter.
I feel like my RPMs are a bit to high at highways speeds so I am wondering if I have a TC that is slipping a bit while driving. I did notice a bit of a metallic pearl in the fluid that came out. Aside from that I feel like the trans is shifting ok, though sometimes I have to let off the gas to get it to shift into 4th.
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
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The car is 1985 Chevrolet Cavalier with automatic transmission.I had the engine stall several times and I coasted sometimes for a quarter of a mile with the transmission in gear. Can this cause damage to transmission?Later on I wised up and moved the shifter to neutral when the engine stalled.When I coasted in gear, I was getting some vibration that smoothed out when I put it in neutral.
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I have a 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2. I have owned it for every day and every mile (204K) since I bought it new in April of 2001. I have had many mechanical disasters and problems mostly starting a couple of years ago - and a lot of them I have worked on or fixed and/or replaced the part myself.
The transmission fluid in this car has never been changed, looked-at, drained, added, etc....because I was told that it didn't need it. The manual says the same thing. For as long as I've had this car, it has had a intermittent rattle noise that I figured was just the "Getrag rattle" - so I didn't pay much attention to it. But over the past year - especially the last 6 months - this rattle has just gotten totally insane and out of control. It is now a constant loud rattle whenever the car is in gear - especially starting out in 1st or 2nd. I mentioned this to someone and they asked when the last time the fluid was changed and said that would fix the problem - and couldn't believe that the fluid had never been changed after 15 years and 200K miles.
This model has no dipstick. There is a big red vent cap and I think I found a HEX plug close to it, but before I go out and buy the wrong size hex key - what size these are and if they are even what I am looking for to fill/check/drain it? So frustrated. Also - since I can't find DEXRON 3 anywhere am I supposed to use this DEX/Mercon stuff?
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I have had a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2 liter 4 cyl Automatic for about 5 or 6 years now. I have noticed the whole time I have owned it that when I start the car and shift from Park to Drive I hear a clunk and the with the hood open the engine pivots back and forth one time more than it is supposed to. This only happens from park to drive, it does not do this from park to any other gears, and once the car is in drive everything is normal. The car has no shifting problems at all, no slips or clunking while driving or hitting the gas real fast on take off.
I changed the all three mounts on the car yesterday. Upper engine mount (still in decent shape), lower dogbone (tore to hell), and Transmission mount (decent). I really haven't noticed it get any worse over the years I just know its not right. I have never changed the fluid or the filter since I owned the car, and most likely it has never been changed in the cars life. Could a dirty filter, and dirty fluid cause this problem? Or could the linkage need adjusted or replaced?
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Any way, they come to me and tell me the tranny is slipping. I immediately notice the SES light on. I decided to check codes to see if I have any errors coming from the tranny. So far I have these codes: P0455 P1151 P0304 P0174
I dont know this vehicle at all and wanted to see if some of these items are common and/or possibly related to each other.
Heres what I have found:
P0455 - EVAP leak somewhere. Seems a lot of people have discovered a crack in the filler neck.
P1151 - Passenger O2 LEAN
P0304 - Cyl 4 misfire
P0174 - Passenger lean condition "A Heated Exhaust Oxygen (HO2S) sensor indicating lean at the end of a test is trying to correct for an over-rich condition. The test fails when the fuel control system no longer detects switching for a calibrated amount of time."
Looks like I need to clean the MAF, check vacuum leaks, possibly replace passenger O2. Ive also read some of these codes come from a common issue with the intake gasket. May need to replace it? How should I clean the MAF? Can I use some normal solvents?
I need to mention a tick/tap on pass side under cold idle (consistent, but not constant). Still need to test to see if it happens at other times. Right now has Seafoam in the oil and about to run it and then change the oil. Also, have ran it though the brake booster. Currently in the sit and wait process, about to go out and make the neighborhood smoke like Hiroshima.
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My daughter drives my old 2000 Chevy Blazer with a reconditioned transmission I paid for in Aug 2010. The new (rebuilt) transmission is now slipping. Could this be as simple as a fuse (electrical signal issue) or not having enough transmission fluid?
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I have a 1998 Chevrolet Prizm that will not fast idle when it is started in cold weather the first thing in morning. what could be the problem?
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2007 Chevy Impala3.5L 6-cyl Flex Fuel engine w/ 4 speed auto trans52,800 miles
Extreme driving conditions maintenance schedule kept.Transmission standard service done @ 32,800 miles which was 20k ago.
PROBLEM:
1) Twice in past three days, when shifting from reverse to drive the transmission has slipped, revving hard with rpms spiked above 3,000 for about 2 seconds before engaging the forward drive gear.
Normally I come to a complete stop of all reverse motion with foot fully on the brake pedal before shifting. Admittedly, I got sloppy the first time noted and still had very slight reverse motion when I shifted.
2) Several times late today, while driving uphill at approx 35 - 45 mph, when the car downshifted there was an extremely brief moment of transmission slippage with spiked rpms. It was so brief each time that at first I thought I'd imagined it until it happened again. Then it did it once on a level surface in a parking lot when having shifted from reverse to drive without problem and was gently accelerating the transmission again slipped for just the briefest moment when the normal automatic shift point was reached. So far, all incidences while driving have been so extremely brief that it was the merest hint of a hiccup.
3) When bringing the car to a complete stop, such as at a stoplight or when parking, as the transmission automatically shifts for the braking of speed, sometimes there is a minor but noticeable thunk sound seeming to come from underneath the car, I'd judge to be somewhere about under the level of the dashboard or slightly forward of that. Could that be from a worn or broken transmission mount? And, if so, could that be somehow causing the slippage problem?
4) This transmission has always, even since new, allowed more roll after being shifted into park, the engine shut off and my foot taken off the brake than any other car I have ever driven. If I forget to engage the parking brake quite tightly, the car will roll forward quite a few inches before the parking pawl holds it, even on the level. I've been told both by the dealership shop and the independent mechanic shop that there is no problem and that this particular engine/transmission combination tends to do this although my particular car seems to do so somewhat worse than average.
ACTIONS TAKEN SO FAR:
1) Have made an appointment to take the car into the mechanic.
2) Will check the transmission fluid level per instructions in the owner's manual tomorrow when I have daylight to see what the fluid level and color on the stick looks like.
NOTE:
1) I periodically check the transmission fluid level and it has never been low or discolored. The shop checked it for me, along with making sure everything else was road trip worthy, for an emergency 1,000 round trip in late November, just three months ago. No problems then.
2) No evidence on the garage floor of any leakage. Garage floor is dry.
QUESTIONS:
1) I presume the first step is for the mechanic to check the fluid level and examine for any leaks?
2) If the mechanic cannot duplicate the problem in a test drive, then what?
3) If the problem cannot be duplicated and no apparent cause found, I presume that the prudent course of action is to go ahead and have standard transmission maintenance done (i.e. drop the pan, check for debris, drain and replace with fresh fluid) then see if that halts the slippages?
4) Given that this car has already had failures of the power steering pump, water pump, and part of the wiring harness, and has a fuel pump starting to get noisy, despite aggressively maintaining all standard/preventive maintenance, that perhaps it is time to think of replacing this car, especially if there proves to be any truly major transmission problem found?
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We own a 2005 Chevy Trailblazer, 8 cyl, 150K miles. Since July 11, the transmission has been slipping into neutral, usually when slowing down. This happens anywhere, and usually in slow (so far) traffic. My husband has been able to get the car to drive either in D3, or has been able to get it back into Drive, and the car just drives off like nothing happened. This usually takes a few minutes of turning it off and on, and shifting gears. Today he drove it in AWD, and it was fine (so far). He normally drives it in 4WD. They have been unable to duplicate this problem and, because there aren't any codes, cannot tell us what's going on. Needless to say, I've had it.
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So, we bought this camry about a year and a half ago and it has slowly developed what I believe to be a transmission slip. It seems to happen more often when the car is cold (prior to warming up to operating temperature). The transmission only shifts between (i think) 1-2 gear. Could be 3-4 but, it's kinda hard to tell.
Anyhow, it doesn't keep us from driving the car but I fear it will eventually make the car un-driveable.
We have a used car warranty but under the automatic trans. section it appears to only cover hard parts and not things like bands or other friction materials.
is this a known issue for this transmission? and if so, what typically causes this kind of slipping?
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I just brought the car into the shop to have the transmission fluid pan gasket changed, then have the fluid refilled with the proper OEM fluid. Prior to that it had Redline transmission fluid and was working fine.
The shop I took it to only works on VW and Audi and the mechanic told me I HAD to use OEM transmission fluid or I could damage the transmission. Now when I hit the gas pedal on every cold start it jerks into first gear but never does it again, until the next cold start.
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My transmission is slipping when the engine is cold. Fluid levels seem fine. I do have a fluid leak that I monitor and add fluid when needed. It's an 05 touring with 167k miles.
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I have had a check engine light go on and off with P0700 and P0741 but since the flush day 3 it hasnt come back on and it was chucking with rpm doing small jumps... but now it does it in the mornings after sitting all night after a few chucks its fine for the rest of the day til the next day no check engine light so far, but transmission flush has worked a lot not as bad as before the flush.. So what else could be causing it? Its a 2006 hyundai santa fe with 274,000 kms.
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I have 95 Aurora with 200,000 miles and the transmission is slipping. When I check fluid cold their is nothing on stick, when hot the fluid id bubbling and overfull. Should I change the filter and fluid or will this hurt the car?
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