Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1997 - No Electrical Power When Turned The Key In Ignition
Jun 16, 2016
I have 1997 chevrolet Silverado k1500. When I turned the key the other day, there was no electrical power. No gauges. No lights. I checked the battery and terminals and those are fine. When I turn the key slightly the (P) park illuminates but when i turn the key further it goes out. Then there is a buzzing sound from just to the right of the brake pedal. When I depress the brake pedal, the buzzing ceases but then a relay from under the hood in the relay center buzzes. Then when I turn the lights on, all buzzing ceases. But, the lights are not illuminated. I switched the buzzing relay with the a/c relay but that did nothing. I am wondering if there is a main relay that controls all the electrical power?
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Alright. I'm a handyman by trade but have only done regular maintenance on my vehicles - I'm no expert. I've searched several forums for this information but have found 1000 different answers, mostly for other makes and models. My truck is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne 1500, 5.0L V8, 137k miles, last tune up at 110k miles. Use valvoline oil explicitly, and change every 4k miles.
I got into my truck this morning, it turned over, and then died. The gauges all activated and displayed adequate oil pressure, battery power, etc. My RPMs got to 1000 for a second and then back to zero. I tried pumping the gas pedal a bit and nothing changed. It will do the same trick over and over with no difference based on time in between.
So I pulled the air filter off and changed the spark plugs and wires. The spark plugs were moderately worn and two had some corrosion. I used the correct gap on my gauge (.06 or .6, don't remember) and I've done spark plug changes a few times in different vehicles. I'm pretty sure it was done correctly. Also, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I filled it up, and added a quart of oil.
No luck. Exact same thing is happening. I really want to avoid electrical issues (don't we all!) and would like to check other things first...
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I have a 97 Ranger, v6 4.0L, 2wd, 5spd. It has been my daily driver since 1999. I was driving to work today and when I pulled into the parking spot, I turned the truck off, and I thought it was odd that the locks didn't pop up when I shut the truck off.
I then realized that I had completely lost all electrical power. Tried to turn the truck on and nothing. No click. No dome light, no horn, no nothing.
My battery reads 12.5 volts and the connections are all clean on the battery. I checked all the fuses and they are all good. What else should I check? This may be the first time this truck has ever stranded me before.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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I have a 97 Chevy K1500 truck that i have been having problem with starting. Sometimes it will start. When it does the idle is rough. When i put in in gear it almost acts like it will shut off. Then it comes back and it drives fine. If it shut it off it may or may not start. I had the distributor cap a rotor replaced. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does not start. It seems like it is getting too much fuel. I pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck would start then die out. When i put the relay back in truck does not start. I am not sure what might be the next piece to look at. I was thinking the MAP sensor or the throttle position sensor. So far i have not had any codes come up.
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Our son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
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1997 chevy k1500 ... I have a misfire on cylinder 3 that i cannot figure out the cause. The idle is rough, backing out after starting is very rough, it seems to pick up at higher rpms but once the truck upshifrts to the next gear it shakes like a leaf in fall. within the past year the engine was rebuilt all new seals a new fuel pump, new injectors, new everything practically. so far i have done the following:
compression test results:125-130psi
fuel pressure test results: 50psi once primed, 50psi with engine running, no immediate pressure loss after engine is shut off
new spark plug wires
new spark plugs
replaced all four o2 sensors
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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Several years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
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97 Explorer XLT ... All lights , radio, etc. work, so not battery. When turning key to start, there is silence. No click, no stutter, nuttin. Starter?? Where should I start?
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have an issue with my 03 trailblazer. i have the problem of no start when key turned to start position. actually nothing happens when the key is turned to start position. dash comes on when key is turned to on pos tho. took battery off and had it tested and it is at full charge. took starter off and had it tested and it passed. checked ignition relay cavities per this youtube video "Chevy Trailblazer no crank testing and information" and there is no light when touching the ground request cavity and turning the key to start position.
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Blower, seats, locks, blinkers stopped simultaneously, abs and airbag light came on. The internet suggested it was the ignition switch, I changed it to no avail. The horn, wipers, 4-way flashers, headlights, taillights, and brake lights all work. Is my wife correct in suggesting we replace this 140,000 mile pile of rust?
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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2001 Ford Taurus 3.0 DOHC. Starting Problem. When the door is opened the interior lights come on, door dings, etc. As soon as the ignition is turned everything goes black all power is lost. Disconnect battery cable and reconnect, the open door again and the interior lights come on, door dings, insert key and turn, everything goes black, the car does not start. This cycle repeats over and over again every time the battery is disconnected and reconnected. I have replaced the battery, ignition switch. The starter was replaced last year. Why does power blackout, and car not start when the key is turned?
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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