Chevrolet - Equinox :: 2008 - Engine Made Sort Of A Buzzer Sound And Does Not Start
Jun 2, 2013
Recently I've been having some intermittent trouble starting my 2008 Chevy Equinox LS. The problem only occurs when I leave my daughter's daycare after dropping her off in the morning...so it's the second start of the day, after about a 5 minute drive. All other times the car starts fine. Here's a rundown of the symptoms:
-May 9th or 10th: I tried starting the car (at the daycare) and the engine made sort of a buzzer sound, and didn't start. Then, after a few seconds, I tried it again and it started right up.
-May 11th: I did some interstate driving (about a 1.5 hour trip each way). On the trip up, after about an hour or so, I received the following warnings: "Service Traction Control" and "Service Stabilitrack." After I turned off the car the warnings have never come back on (don't know if this is related to the starting problem, but figured I would mention it).
-May 18th: while sitting at a stoplight, the car was idling roughly - I had to really hold down the brake to prevent the car from lurching forward, and the RPMs were going between about 800 and 1500...haven't noticed any rough idling since, though.
-May 20-24 & 27-29: Again, when leaving the daycare in the morning, when I try to start the car, it sounds like a machine gun. It usually won't start the first time, but will the second time after still making that noise. Attached is a video of this. The odd thing, though, is that it hasn't done it the last two times I've left the daycare (I doubt the problem just fixed itself).
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A few weeks ago, I went out to my car & the remote opener would not work. So I opened the door with the key. I went to start the car & it would not start. I got absolutely nothing. I also then could not get the key back out of the ignition. It would not even turn back to the original position. My father get the car started with a jump, but since then my car radio does not work. I also do not hear any noise when using the turn signals. They work, but no "blinking" sound. I tried to research this thinking maybe you have to "reset" the radio after a power "outage" but have been unable to find anything on how to do this. My husband recently passed away and I'm feeling a little lost when it comes to issues with my car. Where I can find some info?
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Our 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
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I have a 1982 Chevy C30 pickup with an ignition problem. When it's really cold out, 15 degrees or colder, it won't start. When I turn the key, it feels like I'm turning a piece of clay. There is NO cranking, clicking or any sound made. The accessories won't work either. The last time this happened, I heated the ignition tumbler with a heat gun and the truck started. It started one time after that. Then on a warm day it started once; then wouldn't restart. I turn the key and nothing. It had to be towed. I wondering if the problem is the ignition tumbler, where I put the key, or the ignition switch, which is located near the bottom of the steering column.
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08 equinox. Awd. Was parked outside is -5f temps. Got warning light for awd system at initial start. Drove 1/2 mi to gas station. Shut off and restart and no light. Maybe temp related? Read manual and it say owner may get a warning if awd systems experiences overheating issues? What the heck? What exactly did GM manual writer try to mean with that statement? I know the awd system is wimpy at best and I assume it is mostly some type of viscous/liquid clutch setup for rear power transmission? I do not have hitch and assume the warning is to discourage ANY heavy duty use of this suv?
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2008 Chevy Equinox. Front two doors won't lock or unlock with remote when it is hot out. Just started within the last month or so. What causes this? And more important, how do I fix it?
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I have a 2006 equinox with 74000 miles that consumes up to 2+ quarts of oil every 2000 to 3000 miles between oil changes and the water in the fluid section of the car drops about one gallon of water thus causing the car to over heat what could be the problem. The engine light always comes on when i have more or less then 1/2 a tank of gas. The manual said this could be the gas cap that is producing the problem and is there a solution.
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We have a 1995 S10 w/ a manual transmission. Our daughter had borrowed it and drove it to the store. She came out and it would not start. She tried every thing she could think of, and then tried to get it rolling and pop the clutch. Nothing. My husband and I went and tried it. No key buzzer, no dash lights, nothing. We tried a battery booster, but got nothing, another person came and we tried jumping it. That time we at least got dash lights (the ones you get when you turn your key on). Husband also tried to pop the clutch. Nothing.
Got it towed to the shop. They said they could find nothing wrong, but after they charged the battery, it started just fine. Drove it home, drove it a few more times. Went to start it and nothing. Thought it might be the battery, so we replaced it. Still nothing. Thought it might be that switch keeps the car from starting if the clutch pedal isn't pushed all the way down, so my husband mashed the clutch a couple times and it started. Went to start it the next time and nothing. Smashed that clutch pedal down hard, thinking that might work, still nothing. Husband came out and tried, still nothing.
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My Equinox had problems from when I bought it used at 23K miles. The evap hose recall was installed wrong and broke. The traction control went out and shut down my car in mid-drive (twice). Computer modules went bad. Timing chain had to be replaced. Then is was using 3 or more quarts of oil before reaching 3000 miles after an oil change, with no puddles on the ground. I received a letter from GM after it reached 120k miles, but the dealership was good enough to replace the whole engine anyway due to "problems" with this year and model. The catalytic coverters were bad at the time but not replaced though the "disappearing oil" from the bad engine seems to have caused that. What can I do to get this resolved without having to spend $1500-$2000 of my own money, that I don't have right now? (oh, one wheel hub assembly has just gone bad too)
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I bought a 2012 certified preowned Chevy Equinox with 50,000 miles. After I drove it for 3,000 miles I had to take it to the dealer due to an engine noise which turned out to be a low oil level. They changed the oil and then told me that it's normal for these engines to burn a lot of oil. I drove it for 2,000 miles after the oil change and the oil level was low again. I took it back to the dealer and they topped off the oil and told me to come back after 1000 miles for an oil consumption test.I don't know much about cars but burning through that much oil does not seem normal to me.My question is, how can I make the dealer take responsibility for this car oil issues while it is still under warranty?Is it normal for these engines to consume high amounts of oil and for me to keep replacing about 3 quarts every 3,000 miles?
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I have a 2009 Chevy Equinox with a little over 50,000 miles. About a year ago the key began sporadically getting stuck in the AUX position when I attempt to turn the engine off (no problems when starting engine). The dealer installed a new ignition cylinder (which cost me $1,000) but the problem continues. When the key sticks I re-start, re-shift and re-brake and I can remove the key and turn off the engine on the first or second try. The dealer suggested that I take my foot off the brake when I remove the key but I usually have to FLOOR the brake to remove the key.
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and recently I noticed a gas smell...I saw Chevy had a special policy to replace the fuel pump module, so I took it to the dealership hoping that would be the problem. Fortunately it was, and they replaced it for free. I got my car back Thursday afternoon, drove it Friday, and it sat yesterday without being driven. This morning I drove to the grocery store, and on the way home my check engine light came on. I have an ODBII scanner, so I plugged it in and got this code:
P0455: Evaporative Emission System Leak Detected (gross leak/no flow)
So I was wondering: (1) what is the cause and/or solution to this problem, and (2) is it possible the dealership caused this problem when they replaced my fuel pump module?
It seems awfully coincidental not to be related to the repair, since it is a fuel system problem, but I don't know enough about cars to be sure...
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The EMS service in the county next to ours lost one of it's new trucks for a few days on Tuesday. While going on a call, the engine made a tapping sound for only a few seconds, then a loud pop and shut off. Ford dealer went and picked it up and took it in for evaluation. VERDICT: Broken rod and cracked block. I have to say, this is the first I've heard of a 6.7L having a problem like this in our area.
Ford was really interested in this engine, as a new one is already on the way and the old one is to be shipped back for complete breakdown. So far, the Director and County Manager have been impressed with Ford's response to this problem. Dealer has told them the truck should be ready by the middle to end of next week. If I hear anything else, I will let you know. Any engine can break at any time, I'm just glad they are moving quickly to rectify the situation.
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2004 F150, 4.6 V8. I'm wondering if my engine control module is going bad.
A few weeks ago I got into it in the morning, turned the ignition on, gauges responded as expected, warning lights on, etc. After starting the engine, all of the gauges peg to the left, and sort of "tremble", as if they were trying to keep going past the stop. After 5 seconds or so, they move up normally. This happens every time I start it now.
Since this weird gauge behavior started I have had to disconnect the battery to clean the negative terminal. After reconnecting it started experiencing idle problems. It idles smoothly, hitting on all 8, but it wavers. I found instructions in the owners manual for "relearning the idle and fuel trim strategy". It's been a over a week since doing this, and it still wavers and throws a P0506 error periodically, which I have been clearing. Twice while coasting the tachometer has jumped up to around 2000 rpm and the engine cut off, like maybe it thought the engine revved and closed the throttle to "slow it down".
My question is, have I just not waited long enough for it to re-learn to idle, or is it possible the engine control module is starting to fail?
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I was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
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I have about 200k on my forester. Friday when I was leaving work I cranked it up and it made a loud knocking sort of sound. I drove it home (about 15 miles) and on the way the sound lessened. It was louder when the car was idling but she made it home ok. Next day, started the car and it happened again. Not more than 50 feet up the road we stopped at a stop sign and it sounded like a semi was starting up around the corner. Much to my dismay it was not a semi but my own car. Engine shut off. We pushed it back to the house and tried to check it out the next day. This time, we started it, didn't go anywhere, and within 30 seconds it turned off. Same loud knocking sort of sound. The confusing part is that all of this happened within two days. There was no gentle sound leading up to it for a few weeks or even a few days. Knocked on Friday, shut off on Saturday. What could be going on?
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My daughters car won't start. My husband took out the starter and had it tested and it is fine. Then he took the battery out of my car and put it in the Cobalt, still doesn't start. The starter is turning but the engine doesn't engage. The fly wheel looks good. My daughter is using my car to get to work and to soccer practice for a team she is coaching, I miss my car!
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We've noticed that when we have the inside air circulation on, we're still getting exhaust fumes from outside the vehicle and other "smells", too. I've never had this problem before and the dealership (and manufacturer) say that it isn't air tight and we would still get outside odors coming in. I don't accept this answer. We've never had this problem on any other vehicle we've driven. My husband has heart issues and when exhaust fumes still enter the car, it effects his heart. The only way to stop odors from entering the vehicle is to turn off the fan - but that creates other issues (especially with fogging up windows, etc). So, how do we remedy this? We've taken it in for maintenance, and they say everything is "shutting/securing" as it's supposed to be. There's no leak anywhere else. We don't accept this answer (and even one of the service techs say it shouldn't do that, but when they're told by the manufacturer that's what we have to tell the customer, that's what we have to do). My husband hates to ride in the Equinox now due to this problem. We've read up on the "Lemon Law" and may have to enforce it.
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It's a 2007 Chevy Equinox. My brake lights and reverse lights do not come on, but all other lights do. Is this a serious problem?
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How to change the transmission oil and filter on a 2005 Chevrolet Equinox?
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I have a 2007 Chevy Equinox with 104,500 mi. For the past 20,000 miles (2-1/2 yrs.) or so the transmission hesitates when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear. When this happens, the engine revs and the wheels lose power for a second or two, and then the shift completes.It happens anywhere from once or twice a week, to once a month.It never produces a "Check Engine Light" nor a "Code" when scoped the same day.It is more of a nuisance, although doing it while pulling into traffic could cause a nasty safety issue.I have had it checked by independent mechanics and a local Chevy Dealership and nobody has an answer.
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