Chevrolet - Lumina :: 1993 - Starter Clicked But The Car Didn't Come On?
Jan 18, 2014
I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1 that decided it wasn't going to start one day. The night before it ran perfectly fine with no issues. When I would turn the key to start it, it acted like the battery was not charged. It didn't click or make any sounds. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't hold, so went and bought a new one. Got it hooked up and tried to start it again, and nothing.
A friend came over and tried to check the starter by trying to start it directly from under the car while the key was on. The starter clicked but the car didn't come on. He also checked the alternator and it was fine. He then went and checked to see if the fly wheel would turn, the one on the right side of the car with the bolt. It was locked solid. He tried to say that meant the engine was gone on it.
I don't know. I do know I have had to replace the timing chain on it years ago. The fuel pump and all that was replaced a year ago. It keeps bugging me that it's something else and not the engine being gone in it. I have also had the ignition replaced a while back as well when the previous one shorted out. What is possibly the cause and hoping beyond hope that it's not the engine? I am the second owner and it has 188k original miles on it and it's nearly 25 years old. The fact that it does the same thing with a new battery tells me it's more electrical than mechanical wise.
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99 lumina. Ac was not working. I added a few oz's and the compressor clicked on but cooling fans were not running. After 10 min of idling the fans did come on but went off after 1-2 minutes. It seemed like they were responding to coolant temp more than ac pressure. Do the fans run when the hi pressure rises to a certain point where the computer will turn on fans?
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My wife's '93 Chevy Lumina has a strange habit of not starting unless I charge the battery overnight. The lights don't dim when I turn the key which would normally tell me that the battery and connections are fine, but the solenoid won't energize. If I trickle charge the battery overnight it will start fine. Now this generally happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time. Computer maybe?
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I replaced the starter with one from the store, and it started right up, the idle corrected itself and all was good. However, intermittently when I turn the key, nothing happens, no clicking or anything. I get dash lights, but the car does not even try to start. So I turn the key off, and try again, and typically it started right up, or it continued, I put it in neutral, pressed the break, and the car started, however, sometimes in neutral the car did not not start either. I am wondering if I need to clean/replace my NSS or if something else could be and issue ? Where else should I look ? Maybe the ignition switch?
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The battery is about 6-month old and my mechanic replaced the starter last week as the car had a hard time to start. Since then it has no problem except once in a cold day (about 35 degrees) it took 10 minutes to get started. Every time I switched the key, no sound came from the starter or the engine, just like what happened with the old starter. But this only happened once. I didn't have trouble in other occasions with the new battery and the new starter. What could be the problem?
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I hoped in my 2006 GS300 car Monday morning to head to work and pressed the start button while holding the break pedal and the starter didn't engage/turnover the engine. Everything looks normal (Green light on starter button, dash lights come on, etc...) except no starter action. I mean not even a tick or a click.... Nada....
The car battery was replaced in the past 6months or so and the key FOB battery seems good as well since it detects when I approach the vehicle. My wife was also in the car with me and had her key FOB as well. I can also hear the fuel pump priming when I press the start button as expected.
I'm thinking its a starter problem and will start by verifying the voltage at the solenoid when attempting to crank.
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Passenger door on my 93. I took some pix to try to figure out what was going on and what I'm dealing with because I'm basically having to go in blind. The door opens from the inside but won't from the outside. Awhile back it was becoming difficult to open from the outside, like you really had to give it a solid tug to get the door to open. Now it won't open from the outside at all. I noticed today that the handle is a little loose and I found out why once I looked in there: there is only 1 bolt holding the handle on instead of 2 (not sure how that could possibly be causing my problem???) For now I pushed the door panel back on and shut the door (minus screws/bolts/plates) because I'd like to figure this out soon!
Pictures : [URL] .....
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93, 3.1 Left work the other day, started to back out of the spot when I noticed the car was a little louder than normal. Acted like it didn't have as much power. Luckily I don't live far so I went ahead and drove on home. Car was shaky and sluggish, not wanting to accelerate. My first instinct was the cat. was clogged, but I let someone else look at it and they determined that it was not the cat. A little later, looked under the hood to find that the water pump was spitting coolant up on the underside of the hood.
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Decided to put the AC on one day but nothing but warm air, observed compressor didn't cycle. Why this would suddenly occur and why?
Vehicle is a 98 tahoe.
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I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
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Got no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
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My car has started to on occasion not have any power when I turn key. I can try it several times and then poof, the power is there and it stars with no trouble. When I say no power, there is nothing, no dash lights no sound, Absolutely nothing!
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I drive a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina. The car frequently goes out of alignment. Best case scenario, I have to get an alignment done once a month. The last time I had an alignment done on it, the mechanic said one of the machine settings was not listed & they could only align two of the settings. I guess he meant two out of camber/toe/caster. Also, I was rear ended in June 2012. The car seems to have lost capability to stay in alignment. Why is this? Do I need a new suspension? Do I need to have certain parts looked at to see why the car can not stay in alignment?
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I have 30k on my 97 Chevy Lumina. there is so much vacuum in the gas tank that it crushed the tank. I have replaced the tank but don't know what the problem is. Have taken it to three different shops and got three different opinions. One shop replaced the purge solenoid, no luck. Another said there is no fuel tank pressure data and want to drop the tank and check the sensor. the error code they read is p0440. The other replaced the evap canister. Am driving without the gas cap to protect new tank.I don't want to pay for another unnecessary repair and am sure I can repair it myself but want to be cartain I have it right. Also I didn't realize there was a pressure sensor in the tank. They also said I could have a restricted vent valve or canister.
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I'm new here and I am having issues with my Lumina. It is a 93 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1L 6 cylinder and has 192K miles on it. It has had one owner for the past ten years that I know for a fact.
Here's what happened. I was coming back home (2hr trip) The brakes had started making that roaring sound on the way down and had gotten worse when I got ready to make the trip home. Okay so I know the brake pads needed to be changed. No big deal. Well going down the road at 65mph I round a curve and my car starts making this REALLY LOUD grinding clattering noise. It took me forever to get it stopped. I will still in the road and I needed to get it out bc it was right around a curve. So I put it in drive and it wont move. So I put it in reverse and it moves just fine with no problems and no noises made. After backing it out of the road I tried to put it in drive. It moved forward a few inches and stopped like something was binding it up.
So here's the problem.. it will move in reverse with no problems at all and only creeps a couple of inches forward then stops. The harder you press on the gas the more it tries to lurch forward but will not move.. like it's caught on something.
We changed the rear brakes on it. Discovered that the driver side rear rotor and caliper were broke beyond repair so we replaced those too. Still the same.. moves forward a lil bit and stops but will go in reverse just fine. We don't seem to think its the tranny bc it pulls hard and seems to not have any problems pulling.. but its like something is bound up somewhere. That is the best way I know how to explain this situation.
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I was driving to work and lost all power (during rush hour) I was able to coast to a exit. Had it towed home, when I turn the key the starter engages but nothing after that, the engine will not turn over. I checked the battery and has a full 12 volts.
I removed the belt and front plugs to see if I could manually turn the engine over but it will not budge. How can I tell if this engine is really locked up or if maybe something else is happening?
3.1 V6 engine .....
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For the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
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Have a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
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Recently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
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I'm very ignorant about car repair, so I attached a couple pictures showing a "clip" (the gray headed wire at the bottom of the picture that is not attached to anything). My car recently died, I suspect due to a drained battery, and I hadn't noticed this before.
Further info: it's a 92 Chevy Lumina and the battery is underneath the area pictured. I've tried to jump it, but can only get it to crank a couple times before failing.
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My security light is on in my car and I can not crank my car. What do I do?
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