Camry :: Replaced Starter But In Neutral Car Didn't Start
Oct 2, 2015
I replaced the starter with one from the store, and it started right up, the idle corrected itself and all was good. However, intermittently when I turn the key, nothing happens, no clicking or anything. I get dash lights, but the car does not even try to start. So I turn the key off, and try again, and typically it started right up, or it continued, I put it in neutral, pressed the break, and the car started, however, sometimes in neutral the car did not not start either. I am wondering if I need to clean/replace my NSS or if something else could be and issue ? Where else should I look ? Maybe the ignition switch?
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The battery is about 6-month old and my mechanic replaced the starter last week as the car had a hard time to start. Since then it has no problem except once in a cold day (about 35 degrees) it took 10 minutes to get started. Every time I switched the key, no sound came from the starter or the engine, just like what happened with the old starter. But this only happened once. I didn't have trouble in other occasions with the new battery and the new starter. What could be the problem?
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My camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
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I have a 2007 Prius, the ready light would come on, but when I pushed the start button, the engine would turn over and stop?
Had the car towed to the Toyota Dealer, and they told me that the HV ECU was bad? After replacing the ECU, it still would not start, now the dealer is telling me it's the inverter or the transaxle?
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I took my 2005 Prius to dealer and was told both battery computer and battery CPU were bad (easy $4,000.00 fix). So, I pulled big battery, located bad cell and replaced with similar voltage (7.9 VDC used cell). After re installing, the car will only go to neutral and will not start. Note, before tear down, car would start and run (I drove home from dealer). Before pulling big battery I could reset trouble lights for short time by removing ground to AUX 12V battery. Now, lights don't change and are always on. Car will not start or run and will only go in "Park" and "Neutral" and "B" does not show on dash like usual.
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I have had no problems with my Camry until one day it didn't crank or start. I first thought either battery or starter. Well the battery tested at 100%, alternator.
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I have an 89 accord dx. That i just recently replaced the starter. and since then its been difficult to start. I have to pump the gas and hold the ignition. I also replaced the fuel pump not too long ago and the battery, also the fuel relay. have also gave a tune up so new plugs and wires and air filter. the only thing havent replaced is the fuel filter but it started like this right after i replaced the starter.
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In the last 2 months I've replaced my starter and 2 new batteries. I've tested the alternator and it's fine. What more is there? I'm guessing the FICM is going to crap. If I attach a scangauge 2 to it now would it tell me if that's the problem?
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I have a 1993 Chevy Lumina Euro 3.1 that decided it wasn't going to start one day. The night before it ran perfectly fine with no issues. When I would turn the key to start it, it acted like the battery was not charged. It didn't click or make any sounds. Tried to charge the battery and it wouldn't hold, so went and bought a new one. Got it hooked up and tried to start it again, and nothing.
A friend came over and tried to check the starter by trying to start it directly from under the car while the key was on. The starter clicked but the car didn't come on. He also checked the alternator and it was fine. He then went and checked to see if the fly wheel would turn, the one on the right side of the car with the bolt. It was locked solid. He tried to say that meant the engine was gone on it.
I don't know. I do know I have had to replace the timing chain on it years ago. The fuel pump and all that was replaced a year ago. It keeps bugging me that it's something else and not the engine being gone in it. I have also had the ignition replaced a while back as well when the previous one shorted out. What is possibly the cause and hoping beyond hope that it's not the engine? I am the second owner and it has 188k original miles on it and it's nearly 25 years old. The fact that it does the same thing with a new battery tells me it's more electrical than mechanical wise.
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I replaced my starter with a new one from car quest yesterday, it was starting to turn the engine over slow. I checked the batteries, they were fine, so went for a new starter. After installing, the new starter turned fast and fine, started the truck ok, but I noticed a fast clicking sound from under the dash. Ran it home and tried to start it up this morning, turns over fast, the clicking sound is still coming from under the dash, but the engine won't fire. Just turns over. When it's turning over the check engine (and all the other dash) lights flash.
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I hoped in my 2006 GS300 car Monday morning to head to work and pressed the start button while holding the break pedal and the starter didn't engage/turnover the engine. Everything looks normal (Green light on starter button, dash lights come on, etc...) except no starter action. I mean not even a tick or a click.... Nada....
The car battery was replaced in the past 6months or so and the key FOB battery seems good as well since it detects when I approach the vehicle. My wife was also in the car with me and had her key FOB as well. I can also hear the fuel pump priming when I press the start button as expected.
I'm thinking its a starter problem and will start by verifying the voltage at the solenoid when attempting to crank.
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I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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02 2.4 IL4 2AZ-FE Camry will not start, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. I still asked them to charge it, let it set overnight and test it again when I pick it up. It tested 100%.
Put battery into car, started car and drove it to automotive store to test charging circuit and battery with car running. Checked 100% good.
Car would not start, again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio. Took battery to automotive store and it tested bad. Replaced battery. Car started twice and again, starter clicks once and car is dead, even no radio.
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My camry won't start I got a new battery and a new starter (they are both good) and it sill wont start.
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My 1999 Camry has a starting issue. Sometimes, but not always, when I turn the key to start the car, nothing happens - no clicking, nothing. When I try again, immediately, the car starts up. This has been going on for about a week. Battery? Starter? Or?
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Last week the coil went out. The housing had several cracks, and the heavy oil had filled the distributor cap. So the coil, rotor, and distributor cap were replaced. About 4 days later, all my engine would do was make a grating sound when I turned the key. My boyfriend said that it sounded like my starter had gone. It wouldn't start with hitting it or anything. So, he and I, while trying to save some money because we're both on disability, replaced the starter. Now, when I turn the key, nothing happens! We're pretty sure the battery is dead. We have it on a trickle charge right now. But a funny thing happened, all of a sudden the open door alarm started going off! The door had been open for several minutes when it started. So we think that it may be a short. The starter relay, when you look at it, has a spot of corrosion on the indicator. Tomorrow we're going to try cleaning them.
1993 Toyota Camry DX with 170,000 miles ....
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I drove my '02 Camry last night to a restaurant and when I came out it would not start. I have never had any problems with my Camry. I have a new strong battery.
All the lights, bells, radio, a/c, door locks, dash lights came on and work fine. There was no clicking sound of the starter. It would not turn over at all. NO SOUND AT ALL. I did move the shifter handle several times thinking it may have been the kill switch on the shifter.
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This morning my 2011 Camry LE won't start. Based on looking at car manual I think the 'Engine Immobilizer System' is still engaged and perhaps not recognizing my key, neither of them since I tried the spare as well. The instrument panel stays black and I can not turn the key or even move the gear shift into Neutral.
Any way to fix this without calling for a tow? So.... found out the problem! The steering wheel was angled slightly. With key in the ignition we jerked the steering wheel slightly and it released the ignition and was able to start.
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Car details: 2002 Toyota Camry V6 3L LXE - 151k miles.
My car took a little longer than normal to start up one morning, but I attributed it to the especially cold weather. I didn't have any problems the following two or three mornings, but my car suddenly died in traffic as I came to a stop, as it had many times before. What made this incidence different in particular was that I didn't feel my car shake or shudder before it shut down. I simply looked down and the Check Engine, oil, and battery lights had all come on, and my power steering was gone.
I attempted, as usual, to restart my car, but the starter only sat and tried to turn over and nothing more. Once I gave it a little gas, it caught, but as soon as I let the engine idle, the RPM dropped to 0 and the engine died. I sat and kept my foot on the gas for a minute or so after I got the car started in hopes that the car would stay on - when I let up, it idled roughly close at a very low RPM for several seconds, shuddered, and then died.
I was unable to get out and under the hood to try the typical trick of unplugging the MAFS and plugging it back in again, so I'm not sure if this would have worked as it has before despite having been replaced. Actually, before I was able to do this again, wouldn't you know it? My starter died. My car started giving a grinding, choking noise when I tried to start it up again, so I simply had it towed to the mechanic.
The mechanic declared the starter dead, which is unusual given I just had it replaced several months ago (could just be a lemon, I guess), so I had it replaced and they said the car started and ran great afterwards. They could not replicate the problem (like previous times), the computer gave no codes.
I noticed after the starter choked, my odometer lost power and my clock reset.
Is it possible that it's some problem with the battery?
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I bought a used 2008 Toyota Camry per-certified from a local Toyota dealer about 2 years ago. About a year and a half ago I got in the car to go to work one morning and it would not start. You turn the key and all the lights come on but nothing else happened. Took the battery to Auto Zone and they said the battery was OK so I had it towed to the dealership. Dealer called when he got it and said it cranked right up for them and it has not been an issue since.
Two days ago I get in the car to leave work and the same thing happens. You might hear the starter click when you turn the key but nothing else happened. The car was getting power from the battery but that was about it. I tried to jump the car off but still the same thing. I had the car towed to a local Goodyear shop and after looking at it the said it was a problem with the alternator, that needed to be replaced, which also killed a cell in the battery that needed to be replaced also. They said since they are replacing the alternator they might as well replace the belt also.
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