Ford - Explorer :: 1996 - Cam Sync Replaced - No Fuel To Rail As Didn't Remove The Battery Cable While Replacing?
Jul 11, 2016
Did the cam sync replacement on my 96 explorer awd 5.0 l had the tool dropped the sync got it back to where the last one was. Followed the procedure pretty close I did forget to remove the battery cable. So here is the issue I now have 0 fuel to the rail. is there something I might have messed up or left unplugged that would cause this. Did my fuel pump poop out the same time my sync did. I am stumped as even where to start .
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Yesterday , my feed fuel line was dry rotting and leaking gas so I bought 516 fuel injection hose and replaced them. Pulled fuse 28 , started the car and let it die to release pressure , fixed the hoses and put the fuse back in and now it just cranks forever. I have spark , and I'm getting fuel just not sure if it's adequate pressure. When I open the door the pump did sound a little funny when it primed. I'm gonna pull it out and check it later but right now I'm completely stumped. I did this last night around 8pm and it's 4:30 am the next morning and still not start.
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My camry isn't starting and I thought it was the battery (5 yrs old) and got a new battery. After that, starting was difficult and it still wouldn't start. After a few aaa calls and realizing hitting the starter would get the car to start, I realized it might be the starter. Now, the car won't start even after having one person hit the starter while I turn the key.
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I'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
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I'm replacing the oil pan gasket and the new gasket came with a half moon plastic seal. I noticed that there is a grove in the new engine at the rear of the engine but the old engine does not have this grove. Looking for info about this seal, do I need it or not?
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I had to replace the temp gauge in my 1996 Explorer. I also replaced the sending unit. Now, it is overheating, badly. I replaced the thermostat, twice. Filled the coolant and removed the air in the system. It seems to get good water flow, and there are no coolant leaks. The radiator looks clean, and the cap looks ok. But, as soon as the engine warms up, it goes right past the midline on the gauge all the way to hot - at idle. It gets worse if I drive it. I have grounded the gauge and it seems to be working fine. What could the problem be?
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Have a gen3 prius 3 and was wondering why the phone does not sync when plugged in using USB cable.
i have an android phone - motorola atrix.
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I have a 2000 Ford Explorer with 4.0 SOHC engine, I have had some cold start problems. I cleaned the IAC and the problem went away for a few months and then came back. Two days ago the temps got very cold and it would not start at all, I re-cleaned the IAC and still no start. I replaced the fuel pump with an aftermarket pump and engine started right away. Now I have a rough idle, bad skip and bad exhaust odor. I am still thinking IAC but I am concerned that the aftermarket fuel pump is pumping to high pressure or that I may have crimped the return line. I have driven about 30 miles hoping the computer would make adjustments, still runs rough and the check engine light has not come on.
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2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
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I have an IPhone 6s and an old iPod touch.
I have to connect the iPhone 6s for Entunes and I would like to use my iPod touch to access my music library.
How to make usb sync/ charge splitters?
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SO the inlaws have I believe a 1996 Explorer XL-not too sure of year-that they will let us use long term if we get it running. Anyway problem is I have the keys, the keys wont turn any of the lock cylinders. I have dumped about a half can of both WD-40 and PB Blaster into all of em and nothing. It has been sitting out back for a year and a half so the battery is so dead. The driver and passenger windows are down about a quarter inch? I want to get in the car without spending any $$ as we will be having twins soon and a free car is too good to pass up.
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Problem started when the fuel supply was low, she had to floorboard it to get on the interstate, keep getting cel, misfire #4.....I replaced fuel filter, had a little water causing the plug to arc....had a mechanic replace the plug.....at startup cold, cel is off and it doesn't miss, after it warms up, light comes back on and starts to miss. I have ran every type of fuel cleaner in it, even used a three step cleaner for throttle body, vacuum system, and tank. I just poured sea foam into the tank and trying that, I noticed a gurgling noise when I removed the gas cap. I'm thinking #4 injector is stopped up.. I recently replaced all the coil boots.....kept getting condensation in the boot (she has been washing the underside at the car wash).....the truck has the 4.6 and has 85,000 miles, it is an 07 sport trac.....
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Black Beauty finally gave up. Replaced battery, replaced fuel pump relay. Would only run with starter fluid sprayed into the air intake. She'll crank but not start. Here she sits at the dealership.
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1995 Ford Explorer, 4 ltr. engine, pushrod. Will not start. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, every relay, pressure regulator, and the crank position sensor. I realize there's a whole bunch more parts under the hood, but I am ready to give up. Before the fuel pump would not run. Reason for replacing the parts. Now it won't stop running and you can feel the fuel by-passing at the pressure regulator. When checking the pressure at the rail I get zero !! I used a tire pressure tester for this. And, like I said no pressure. This vehicle has around 170,000 miles on it.
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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I cant find the port on fuel rail to get a fuel pressure reading.it is nothing like my tarus.saw astem sticking up on front right of rail but it has some kind of covering over it. It is a 2005 freestar with the 3.9 motor.
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I have a 1994 volvo 850 turbo wagon. While replacing the pcv breather system, I dropped a little metal clip that attaches the fuel line to the fuel rail with a t25 torx screw. I can't find the clip. What the part is called or where it can be found?
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I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
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I have a 2005 Prius recently replaced the hybrid battery. Not so happy with it, my mpg b4 was 49-51 mpg, now I only get 40-45 mpg. I notice the car is a little weaker and the ICE rev higher everytime I accelerate.
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I have a 2007 Prius, the ready light would come on, but when I pushed the start button, the engine would turn over and stop?
Had the car towed to the Toyota Dealer, and they told me that the HV ECU was bad? After replacing the ECU, it still would not start, now the dealer is telling me it's the inverter or the transaxle?
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I replaced the starter with one from the store, and it started right up, the idle corrected itself and all was good. However, intermittently when I turn the key, nothing happens, no clicking or anything. I get dash lights, but the car does not even try to start. So I turn the key off, and try again, and typically it started right up, or it continued, I put it in neutral, pressed the break, and the car started, however, sometimes in neutral the car did not not start either. I am wondering if I need to clean/replace my NSS or if something else could be and issue ? Where else should I look ? Maybe the ignition switch?
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