Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 F250 Won't Start - Replaced Battery And Starter?
Jul 21, 2016
I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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03 F-250 5.4vStandard Transmission
Thought my battery was no good , so changed it. Didn't work it just kinda bumps the motor but doesn't turn over.
Thought it must be my starter then , bought a $200 starter and changed it , still doing the same thing. It did start after changing the starter but wont now.
Neutral safety switch?
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I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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I had to have the starter replaced on my 2009 v10 last week and now some of my radio stations have static. All connections are good? The radio is the touchscreen model, it usually shows the artist name and song, now it doesn't.
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So a truck that was running fine Sat for 2 weeks. Battery died so i sent some coworkers to jump it. They tried using a welder which they didn't get turned down enough. Now the wiper motor stays on even without the key. Radio doesn't work but the dash light still comes on. With a new battery installed it turns over but doesn't start. I know something had to get fried but where to start. Thinking about replacing all fuses and relays...
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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I have an 08 f250 with 6.4. when ever it rains the truck will not start. None of the gauges will work, door chime doesn't work and the only error light is the airbag light. Lights, radio, turn signals, horn all work. There is no clicking of the starter relay, the truck in dead. There is no water on the floor board nor is the floor moist. If I place a ceramic heater on the driver side floor board and blow hot air towards the firewall the truck will start in about 30 min to an hour depending on how long it sat in the rain. I've removed the air intake vents and there is no debris blocking the drains.
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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Just bought a used 15 F-250 with 57,000 miles, yesterday tried to start it and nothing happened. Checked the starter fuse and it was blown, replaced it and it immediately blew when i tried to start the truck. Pulled the starter and had it tested and it was good, replaced the relay and still blowing fuses. I have got it to start a couple of times but as soon as you kill the engine and try to restart it blows the fuse. What was the fix? Truck had no problems trying to start before this problem started.....
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I had to replace my alternator (single unit) and after installation it seems only 1 of the 2 batteries is charging when I check them while the truck is running. What check or could be the problem?
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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I have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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I have a 2005 f-250 King Ranch 5.4 triton engine...my problem occurs when i turn the key to start the pickup....i get a clicking sound and then nothing....when i use a portable jump starter, it fires right up...on the other hand, when i try to jump from a running vehicle i only get a clicking sound from the starter...
not sure what i should be testing...also, when i bought the vehicle it had been sitting for several months...for my test drive, they used a commercial charger/starter to fire the truck...i drove it about 10 miles, stopped, turned off the motor and 10 minutes later it wouldn't start...when i contacted the owner, he drove to me and "reset" the kill switch under the fuse box in the cab and then jump started the truck...
I drove it 40 miles home and for 4 days had no starting issues...on day 5 forward, i have had to use the portable jump starter every time...my battery shows 13 amps resting and drops to 5 amps when i try to start without portable jump starter...when i start it with the portable jump starter, it only drops to 10 amps...
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Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
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2005 6.0 F250 SD Powerstroke... Truck died on the road and wouldn't start
The symptoms were... I changed the Radiator and had the cooling system flushed... couple of weeks later it stopped while driving... did some research and talked to a few people and the STC valve seemed to be the issue... So new STC, new intake gaskets, cleaned and new EGR gaskets and I just put in a new Turbo (Ford installed it)... had a stripped bolt under the EGR cooler arm and had to remove the Turbo to get to it.... 14 days later......
Changed STC fitting and gaskets in the high pressure oil pump, IPR screen, exhaust manifold gaskets and Cleaned the EGR and changed gaskets and no start. Tried starter fluid and it turned but wouldn't stay on and the batteries died. Would you all say I'm on the right path?
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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I have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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Starting about 4 months ago, when starting my truck, the starter would miss; I would turn the key to start, then the starter spins and spools up very high and loud but not crank the engine. I have to turn the key off to make it stop and then try again. Usually the second or third time it will grab and turn the engine and start. It happens about once a week or once every 10 or 12 times I start my truck with all the other times being normal. Doesn't matter if it's a cold start or already warmed up. It's a 2012, 6.7L F250 with 52,000 miles. What is causing it and how it can be fixed.
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