Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2005 F250 Won't Turn Over After STC Fitting Replaced
Dec 12, 2016
2005 6.0 F250 SD Powerstroke... Truck died on the road and wouldn't start
The symptoms were... I changed the Radiator and had the cooling system flushed... couple of weeks later it stopped while driving... did some research and talked to a few people and the STC valve seemed to be the issue... So new STC, new intake gaskets, cleaned and new EGR gaskets and I just put in a new Turbo (Ford installed it)... had a stripped bolt under the EGR cooler arm and had to remove the Turbo to get to it.... 14 days later......
Changed STC fitting and gaskets in the high pressure oil pump, IPR screen, exhaust manifold gaskets and Cleaned the EGR and changed gaskets and no start. Tried starter fluid and it turned but wouldn't stay on and the batteries died. Would you all say I'm on the right path?
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 PowerStroke, and I just did the head bolts upgrade to the ARP studs, new EGR cooler and a new stock turbo. Looks like everything came out good, no left over parts or unplugged connectors, all new fluids and fuel filters and oil filter. Did the priming of fuel and oil, the turbo. When it was ready to turn it on, I turned the motor by jumping the starter to build some oil pressure.
Now I turn the key to turn on the truck, it turns with no issues, it sound good, but it will not turn on.
Checked my batteries, they are fully charged, checked fluids, ok, checked oil pressure as I'm cranking it, it looks good.
It still does not turn on.
So, I jumped it with my friends Excursion, after a couple of tries, it TURNED ON.
Let it run for about 3 minutes then turned it off. It sound good just like it did before the upgrade, with an exhaust leak from the turbo.
Went to turn it on again, it turns but it will not start, jumped it again and it RUNS.
Now I let it run for about 30 minutes figured out where the exhaust leak was coming from.
Shut it off, Re seated exhaust pipe with leak, WENT TO TURN IT ON AND IT WILL TURN BUT WILL NOT RUN.
So what checks I can perform to start eliminating possible issues.....
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You know the "mechanic's fiances truck" problem. I recently replaced the cam sensor in my 05' F250 Gas. The check engine light had been on for a while before that and my truck rode great, however I now want to sell it and I can't do that with a check engine light on. It's got about 85k miles on it.
After replacing the sensor, the light went off for about 20 miles, but it is now back on and my truck seems to miss every once in a while on acceleration or cruising. Some days it's worse than others. The check engine light still says cam sensor, but the sensor is brand new.
My fiance is a mechanic, so I don't know all the details about code numbers and such. However, I want to sell this truck pretty soon, and I would like it to run correctly. His dad (another mechanic) seems to think it could be a coil and wants to wait for that light to come on, but I would rather fix the problem and sell the truck!
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I've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
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So, when trying to start my vehicle it doesn't even turn over. Just clicks continuously. Both of my batteries are putting out 12 Volts. I tried the old arcing my solenoid with a screw driver while key is in on position and I got a couple of turns, but it wouldn't completely turnover. My solenoid has power going to it. Checked all fuses that could coincide with this issue. Not sure where to go from here. I have an 05 Ford F-250 XLT.
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My 2005 ford f250 fx4 won't activate when I turn the key the light illuminates then turns off but when I start the truck and select it it doesn't go into gear
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I have a 2008 f 250 super duty gas v10 i have never had problems with it start always starts right up and strong. After coming out of the story today I tried the remote start and it tried to turn for a couple seconds and stopped. I replaced the battery and starter and still nothing. i hear the relay when trying to start with both keys or remote start but nothing from the starter all lights are working .
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I have a 2003 F250 that has recently started blowing white smoke. I replaced the EGR Valve but no luck.
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I am running a 2008 Ford F-250 with the DPF Delete and the Mini Maxx Tunner. I have replaced the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp Sensor) as well as the EGR Valve and housing troubleshooting this issue. Both the Engine light and the coolant icon come on when I turn on the vehicle. I am getting a P0117 Engine Coolant Temperature Circuit Low code on the Mini Maxx.
From a cold start with codes cleared if I turn the engine to ON even without starting the engine the Engine codes will come on and the the Mini Maxx will read engine coolant temp 302 and will go into Defueling Mode. I have repeatedly tried removing and reattaching the connector to the ECT thinking it could be loose connection. I can't drive the truck because there is no power and i know the engine is not hot because I have let it sit all night before doing these tests. I do not have a scanner to test other than the Mini Maxx. Other notes: I have checked Coolant I have checked Oil
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Ok I have a 2002 f250 7.3 4x4. The belt starting to shred and make a whiping sound at highway speed. So I replaced the idler, tensioner and belt. That was not the problem it still making noise so next I changed water pump. Still not it so I changed a/c clutch, bearing, and pulley. And It still not fixed. Right now the back of the belt is turning black on the wrighting like a pully is locking up. Also the front edge of the belt is starting to wear. I only have 255,000 miles on the truck and has been well maintained.
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I just replaced the ball joints on my 99 F250 SD 4x4. Driver side was a bit stiff to turn the knuckle. Passenger side is very hard to turn. The upper stud wanted to turn in the sleeve after torquing to spec. I had to lean on it to lock it into place. I have to check today to see if parts store is open to get a new set. The brand name is "Drive Works". I have installed ball joints in this vehicle previously, and in another Ford truck with the same style. I have the proper tools to do the job. I have to determine if both joints are tight or just the upper. I won't buy the same brand again.
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I picked up a set of harley davidson look-a-like headlights online for my 05. I go to install them and when I tighten them up it causes the turn signal bulbs to push in towards the fender on both. I put my hand back there and it feels like the bulb socket is being forced against the header panel assembly. Am I missing something?
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2005 F-250 King Ranch Diesel ... My truck when I got it the 4x4 wouldn't engage. I replace the front inner seals, and the lock outs. Still wouldn't work. Took the shift motor off and freed it up and it worked fin till today. Changed the shift motor and still nothing. This truck has been nothing but problems since I have had it and now this ... Truck is going on the market soon and would sell better if the 4x4 worked ...
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F-250 2005 XLT 5.4L 4X4. Had ford for a few years now (Escape as a personal vehicle and econoline as business vehicle). Now I'm having a little problem with 4x4. It wont engage. Worked fine last week and now nothing! I did check all the fuses and when i switch to either 4Lo or 4Hi I can hear a clicking sound behind the switch but feel like it's getting blocked or something. Tries a few time then stop...
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I have had the ABS light on for about a year now. I looked thru the forums and found that the typical reason if a faulty rear VSS (vehicle speed sensor). I found a replacement part online and got it ordered and replaced the original part. Simple 5 minute fix, but it didn't fix it!
Now when I get in and start the truck the ABS light is off, but after I drive off about 20 yards the light comes back on and stays on.
The other day someone stepped out in front of me at a cross walk and I hit the brakes pretty hard and although the truck stopped in time, the rear wheels locked up, so I'm thinking the issue is at the rear.
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I came home from a week's vacation and towed my 16' toyhauler to and from the Sequoia Nat'l Park ... no issues during the entire trip. Guestimating about 5 hours after being home, everything was unpacked and the truck/trailer locked but still hitched ... suddenly the alarm went off ... all by itself! Using the ignition key, I was able to start/stop the 6.0l diesel motor, but the alarm kept going.
I pressed the lock/unlock buttons but still the alarm was going off! I repeated this a few times and concluded that only recourse was to disconnect the batteries. That stopped the alarm. While doing the disconnecting, I detected a faint electrical hot, maybe a burn kind of smell but no smoke of any kind.
I'm worrisome about reconnecting the batteries to see if the truck is back to normal ... I will probably just have it towed to a mechanic ... in any event it's going to go somewhere to be looked at this coming Monday.
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I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
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2004 S/D 4x4 V10 F-250 72,000 miles. Replaced Battery about 6 months ago. I have tested the Battery today and it's fine. I had replaced starter at same time. The issue I'm having now is that the engine will not start. Behaves as if the Battery has low charge state, Which is not the case. Starter engages and will "crank" for a turn or two and thats it. like low charge on battery. I don't know what to look for next, except pull the starter and test it. Fluids at Level.
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I have an 05 F-250 with the 5.4 liter motor, 4" lift, 35" tires 4x4. I have not had any problems with the truck and have 110,000 miles on it. the only thing I even did to it was replace an alternator. Recently it seems to have lost power.
I use the truck mainly for hauling my smaller horse trailer which is roughly 7500 fully loaded but most times i haul it at about 5500lbs.
I also have a 2003 7.3 which we pull at 20,000lbs no problem
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Dome light (and bed light) won't shut off. Been browsing the forums for similar problems but most of the time it is the door switch issue. I have my doubts about this since the 'Door Ajar' message in the instrument cluster is not brought up, unless a door is actually open. Similarly, when locking the truck and doing a door check, I get only one beep, means all doors are shut. 2005 Ford F-250 Lariat....
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OK....my gas cap (5.4 gasser) wasn't put on properly at the gas station. A couple of blocks later, the "Check Gas Cap" notice came on. I stopped a few blocks later, and installed the cap properly. The notice STILL came on. After messing with the cap 4 more times, I gave up, but the notice is still on. Do I need to have it "erased" like a code, or is there a problem with the cap? Everything LOOKS fine...
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