My 1994 Chevy Lumina drives great when its in motion but when it warms up it will stall when your at a stop light. It does great at a quick stop, like a short red light or a stop sign but when I am sitting at a long red light it just stalls. It will start right back up but this is annoying. Recently the car radiator was replaced, so the car over heated. What could the problem be?
View 2 RepliesA week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
My main top water hose burst. I replaced it. Car ran hot. Replaced the thermostat, coolant sensor, and 12 volt relay fuses for primary and secondary fans. Still ran hot. Fans not coming on. I tested fans in service mode by paper clip to F and G in the diagnostic scan box. Fans came on, so no blowed motors. Got desperate, so ran a toggle switch to primary fan, so fan would run while I drive. Still, when the car gets hot, after about 5 miles of regular driving, the car huckabucks, and cuts off at slow downs and stops. Really bad in the middle of light intersections.
1992 Chevrolet Lumina 3.1 6 cyl ....
I have a 1991 Chevy Lumina and I believe this wire is the root of my problems. I
wasn't the one who unplugged it but it seems it was unplugged as an easy way to get around a problem. When unplugged the car runs but the performance is off, It doesn't feel like it has the same power as it does when it's plugged in and it also sounds different when in idle. When the wire is plugged in the car stalls while driving at random intervals between 1 and 10 minutes and needs to be jumped to start it back up. I will attach pictures of the wire and its location within the surrounding area.
I continue to have problems with my Chevy Beretta. The original problem was that -- after my neice's husband ran the car out of gas -- we had to replace the fuel filter. That was last spring. Afterward the car seemed to run fine until the weather got hot. Now it seems to stall generally in high heat and humidity.
I only paid $800 for the car, and my idea was to get everything fixed on it and drive it a while to get my money out of it. I don't want to go into debt for a car, and I don't want to buy another one (unless I have to). I travel a lot, but I don't need my car for work -- just for personal travel.
A local mechanic has changed the crankshaft position sensor and now the ignition module. I got the car out of the shop again yesterday, but the problem remains. I could barely drive it around the block this evening. The temperature is 73F, humidity is 84%, and dewpoint is 68.
Is this problem definitely weather related? What could be the cause? Vapor lock? An intermittent problem with the fuel pump, filters, or fuel injector? Is it possible to get this fixed for good?
My 90 lumina euro 3.1 has idle surge after it warms up. fluctuates between 600 and 1200 rpm when in drive. When you first get on the throttle it wants to die. Once you get past that it runs smooth while driving. Ive also notice that it tries to "buck" when its at lower rpm and barely on the throttle while pulling.
I can't seem to find any vacuum leaks, has recient tuneup, had a egr code and that has been replaced. I've cleaned the throttle body also. Previous owner had intake gaskets replaced as well as fuel injectors, fuel rail, fuel pump.
Last fall I flushed and changed out my water pump, Thermostat, Coolant Temperature sensor, and coolant reservoir. My 2001 Excursion ran find all fall and winter long. This year I changed out the Fan clutch.
Problem: when it warms up and drive well for a while than the gauge start to go up and start staying its overheating. The weird thing is when I turn on the A/C it brings the temperature back down. When its in gear and running without the A/C it creeps up to almost the red. I cleaned the Radiator and made sure it was clean but it still does the same thing. On top of that, the upper hose (when the car is turned off) seem to colapse slightly.
Other than getting it professional Flushed I don't know. The coolant has nothing to do with the Radiator? I'm pretty much stump with it.
My1988 ford ranger 2.9ltr stalls when driving or after it warms up. Will restart most of time a few minutes later. Runs smoothly till it dies. Changed fuel pressure regulator and fuel filter. Drives for miles before it stalls sometimes.
View 5 RepliesThe car has 130K on the clock, and I don't know if she's had the plugs replaced, but the car has been stalling on her suddenly once it warms up, like the ignition switch is switched off. Then, once it cools down for a night, it runs again. If it only cools down for an hour or two, it will run but only for a few miles before quitting again. I'm thinking a sensor, pcm, or coils, but I'm hoping there's some way to narrow this down a little bit.
View 10 RepliesMy fathers 1990 GMC Sierra 1500 Pickup Truck 4.3L runs fine when it is cold but as soon as it warms up it starts running rough then stalls and won't start. There is no spark when it dies. As soon as it cools off it starts back up and runs fine till it warms back up.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford Explorer that when it starts in the morning sounds like a tractor and stalls out till it warms up after 5-10 minutes. This is of course wasting gas and I've replaced spark plugs and wires and 2 oxygen sensors. After the truck warms up it runs fine but it's very frustrating in the morning and good that I have a strong battery-check engine light is on-what could be the problem?
View 2 RepliesI purchased a 92 Lumina Euro with a 3.1 and 101,400 miles on it a little over two weeks ago. It has been having problems since I got it.
It stalls intermittently, typically after I drive to work, shut it off for two hours, and then start it to go to my next client(home health aid) sometimes it stalls right after starting it then, and/or sometimes when put in reverse and/or drive and occasionally at stops signs after the aforementioned problems occur. It has also stalled out twice after highway driving after the car is shut off and started shortly afterwards, for instance, when I ran into a tobacco store for some cigs.. After the problem occurs it usually drives ok if I continue to drive it awhile even if I shut it off for a short time and restart.. I added some fuel injector cleaner when I filled the tank but it didn't work.
After about a week of the stalling issues the car refused to start after dying and didn't start for two or three days. As I was unable to get an answer from the dealer my step-father, who went with me when I bought the car, called him and he said if I could get the car there he would fix it. So I borrowed a bundle to have it towed the 25 miles or so to the small town car lot.
His mechanic supposedly fixed it by replacing the TPS and the dealer informed me that they had cleaned the throttle body before I bought it and apparently the TPS needed replaced to. However the issues again started after one day of it running fine. I tired to get a hold of this guy again and again I get the voice mail and no return call so as soon as I got off work I drove it over there and again he said he would fix it. He had it for three days and I again tried to get a hold of him without success and he again answered the phone for my step-dad and told him they had ordered some kind of module that would be in Monday. So Wednesday he calls me and tells me that they didn't replace this module because when they took it out it tested good five times but they noticed some gunk build up at the contacts of the wires that hook to the module and now the car was fixed. Why did they order the part before testing??? This doesn't make sense so it throws doubt on what the man said. I went to get the car and when I got back to my town and went to get those cigs it died twice after restart and put into reverse. That was two days ago and it has been dying once or twice each day since then although it is somewhat better than before as it isn't taking as long for the idle to even out at sufficient rpms after I throttle it at idle or drive awhile. BUT now it seems to be sucking the gas hard and I am wondering if this guy just did some jerry-rigging because he sure isn't fixing it.
A few more details. The rpms drop rapidly when this occurs, it has a couple of times had a rough idle at the same time but more often the rpms drop and it dies.Sometimes if I use the throttle and keep it up around 1000 rpms for a short time it won't die. I have smelt a burnt smell a couple times when I shut the car off, like electric burnt, not oil burnt or stinky exhaust. Lets see, I felt a very brief loss of power feeling when driving on the highway on two different occasions, so brief that it was barely discernable. It runs over the halfway point on the temp gauge after driving awhile in town, seems a little hot to me but I read these cars don't kick on the fan till 220. Sometimes the rpm bobs a little up and down at idle and slow speeds and once the battery power dropped and popped right back up when it was idling funny and when it had that no start an acquaintance tested it by putting a screwdriver in a plug wire and pointing it towards the engine as I cranked it and he said it had no spark and it did crank every time I tried to start it during the no-start condition. It has also done a bit of surging from time to time when the prob happens. The car is recovering from the stall condition quicker than it did before since this last "fix" but still stalling.
I have a 96 chevy lumina. My brake lights will not come on. My 3rd will not either. I have changed the bulbs, checked the fuses, checked and replaced my brake light switch in my brake pedal with no success. I have half of my dash lights so I am thinking maybe a short?? I have my tail lights, but no brake lights.
View 2 RepliesGot no heat in my 1995 Chevy Lumina passenger car with 3100 engine. Have replaced thermostat, water pump and replaced freeze plug that had a pinhole in it. Heater still blowing cold air and temp gage only moves slightly - stays in low range never reaches normal operating temp. what's causing the problem and how to fix it?
View 9 RepliesMy car has started to on occasion not have any power when I turn key. I can try it several times and then poof, the power is there and it stars with no trouble. When I say no power, there is nothing, no dash lights no sound, Absolutely nothing!
View 4 RepliesMy wife's '93 Chevy Lumina has a strange habit of not starting unless I charge the battery overnight. The lights don't dim when I turn the key which would normally tell me that the battery and connections are fine, but the solenoid won't energize. If I trickle charge the battery overnight it will start fine. Now this generally happens after the car has been sitting for an extended period of time. Computer maybe?
View 4 RepliesI drive a 2000 Chevrolet Lumina. The car frequently goes out of alignment. Best case scenario, I have to get an alignment done once a month. The last time I had an alignment done on it, the mechanic said one of the machine settings was not listed & they could only align two of the settings. I guess he meant two out of camber/toe/caster. Also, I was rear ended in June 2012. The car seems to have lost capability to stay in alignment. Why is this? Do I need a new suspension? Do I need to have certain parts looked at to see why the car can not stay in alignment?
View 13 RepliesI have 30k on my 97 Chevy Lumina. there is so much vacuum in the gas tank that it crushed the tank. I have replaced the tank but don't know what the problem is. Have taken it to three different shops and got three different opinions. One shop replaced the purge solenoid, no luck. Another said there is no fuel tank pressure data and want to drop the tank and check the sensor. the error code they read is p0440. The other replaced the evap canister. Am driving without the gas cap to protect new tank.I don't want to pay for another unnecessary repair and am sure I can repair it myself but want to be cartain I have it right. Also I didn't realize there was a pressure sensor in the tank. They also said I could have a restricted vent valve or canister.
View 4 RepliesFor the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
View 17 RepliesHave a 1999 Chevy Lumina. Brake lights do not work and neither do the blinkers. Changed bulbs, fuses are okay, changed flasher module.
View 2 RepliesRecently my '92 Chevy Lumina (115,600 miles) has taken to not "firing" after I turn it on. It has a brand-new battery and altenator so there's plenty of current. I usually try to get it running 3 or 4 times and if it won't go, I leave it so as to not wear down the battery. It's as if it's not getting any fuel and yes, I do have gas in the tank. I've had the pressure in the fuel pump checked and it was within normal range although on the low end. I can wait 30 seconds or 6 hours and eventually it will "fire" and run.
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