My mechanic says clunking sound in rear is watts link. He suggests replace both upper/lower link and bellcrank. Since upper/lower links look like metal rods, do these need replacing ?
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic said clunking sound from rear of car is caused by watts link. He suggests replacing watts bell crank and upper and lower linkage. Do the two linkages need to be replaced since they appear to be metal rods.
View 1 RepliesWe have a 1995 Chrysler Concorde. It drives fine, but recently I have been hearing a clunking noise (two or three clunks) somewhere in the rear of the car AFTER I turn the car off. It does not clunk while driving or braking or slowing down: only right after the ignition is turned off.
View 5 RepliesI have an '05 Chrysler 300C AWD with approximately 65k miles. The transmission makes a distinct clunking sound when downshifting and I am seeking advice about the cause and solution. For example, I live on a hill and when I slow down at the bottom of the hill the car will downshift and there is a clunking sound. This happens frequently when I am slowing down. In the past year the transmission quit 3x, in all cases the car would start and operate fine but would not go into gear - it would idle but nothing would happen when I put it in gear. The first two times the dealer kept the car for several days and made various adjustments and the car eventually worked again. The third time the Torque Converter was replaced, but the clunking noise continues.
View 3 RepliesWhat it is? Clunking sound from rear right area of car.
View 4 RepliesFor the last couple of weeks I've had a clunking sound coming from the right rear end of my 1997 Lumina when I drive over bumps. Took it to a garage the other day and discovered that the area around the right rear shock (strut?) mount is severely rusted. I assume that other probably causes were checked, but the mechanic was suggesting that this was the reason for the noises I've been hearing. From what I saw, and what the mechanic said, the shock mount is integrated into the wheel well of the vehicle. There's little good metal left in order to support the shock and coil spring, so obviously this situation needs to be addressed, but can this really be the source of the noise? His idea of a fix was that I would have to find a donor car with good metal and use that to replace the rusted wheel well on mine. Not something that his shop can do, but I'm sure there are others in my area that can.
View 17 RepliesI have a 2012 GT lowered on st coil overs. I'm getting a popping/clunking sound coming from the rear. It happens at random times. In turns, going over bumps, straight, and on flat surfaces. I thought it might be the dreaded subframe clunk so I got the Tyrol sport deadset rigid kit and that didn't work. I have tried raising and lowering the car with the coil over adjustments and it makes the noise still. I have also taken the rear coil overs completely off two times to inspect them and all mounts both times using new bolts and retorqued to spec. Also while i had them off I have jerked and pushed on everything they are attached to see if there is any play in anything. I see no signs of anything bumping or rubbing under the back end and the sound is getting worse.
View 4 RepliesI have been getting a clunking sound coming from the rear of the car while braking. it was louder and more frequent before a few things were done by the dealership in an attempt to fix it, however i still have the noise fairly often during normal driving. This is three months into the issue and i still don't have a solution from the dealer or VW. Things that have been done so far by dealership:
1. replaced left and right side rear caliper brackets
2. replaced rear brake pads
3. surfaced rear rotors
All of the above were recommended by vw, according to the dealership. there are notes on the last invoice that the noise was described as "pad slap." everyone involved is acting as if this is a great unsolvable mystery, which seems ridiculous on a new car. i first came to the dealer with the problem with 512 miles on the car.
Just got the car back this past thursday from the dealearship, 2 and 3 from the list above were completed, and they were "unable to replicate noise" during a test drive. after driving around over the weekend i've confirmed that the noise is still present (though less loud and less frequent), and was able to capture it on video--after the turn signal turns off: [URL] ....
i'm not the most knowledgable or mechanically inclined when it comes to cars, so i don't really know what to think of this. google searches turn up that many people have issues with clunking sounds from floating calipers, some say that it's normal, other that it's not. this is my first new car, first car with floating calipers, first VW, so i feel i'm coming at this pretty blind.
When going around 48mph clunking sound comes from rear end. seems like it does that when you are trying to maintain that speed. Also have had 7 window regulators to go bad on have 1 working window 4 bad now replaced the same one 3 times. Called Ford they said no complaints have come in about the window issue on 2004 trucks...
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 camry still has a clunking sound out of the right rear when i drive over rough road. I replaced the rear struts, sway bar links and grommets and right rear bearing hub assy. What else could it be?
View 13 RepliesLast Saturday, my mechanic friend and I spent the day installing WRD coils on my 2003 Wolfsburg edition Jetta. Took us longer than we thought but we got it all done and we set them at 3/4 max for lowness. I don't want to go any lower and I will probably raise a little bit soon.
Anyways, when I started driving I noticed a rear clunking sound, it's especially noticeable at slower speeds. Every single tiny little bump and sounds like someone is dropping boxes in my trunk. I checked my trunk and took everything out and that still didn't work. When my car is stationary and I get out and push on the rear to test the shocks I hear the sound.
My 2005 Honda Pilot has 125k miles and has developed an occasional clunking sound from the rear suspension. It seems to happen around sharp turns or when the rear suspension is unloaded, like hopping over railroad tracks, or when going over short/sharp bumps. It is inconsistent, in that it does not happen all the time. I was checking and checking for loose parts for months and tugging on suspension parts like arms, links, sway bar, etc. I find nothing loose or clunking or showing signs of loose connections.
Today, I was checking with the car on jack stands and found the "hubs" or sheetmetal covers that the CV boots are clamped to are loose at the differential. I believe this is the sound of the noise. They rotate with the rear wheels and kind of clunk around with some manual pressure applied.
Are they a typical source of trouble? Are they easy to replace? Are they nothing to worry about or is this a precursor to the axles falling out?
I recently got an MK7, coming from a MK5, and I installed the VWR springs 8 days ago. Since then I've noticed an intermittent clunking sound coming from the rear suspension. I installed springs on my MKV without any issues and again on several other cars, soIi'm familiar with the process. Everything was torqued to spec after the install.
My best description of the sound would be a clunk, not any rattling, clicking, or squealing. The sound is greater in the passenger side rear than the drivers side rear. No issues with anything up front. Sometimes it occurs when I'm turning the steering wheel while backing out of parking spots and driving slowly, other times when I hit bumps in the road, but it is not constant nor does it seem dependent on the size of the bump/pot holes in the road.
What may be causing this? My plan was to give it a week for everything to settle before I tore everything apart to look for any culprit.
My 2013 Prius with 25,000+ miles has developed a low “clunking” sound every time I stop and the rear of the car settles. It seems to have come on gradually and now it doesn't seem to get any worse. My dealer is unable to find the cause and there is nothing loose in the back end of the car. This isn't an awful sound but it’s very irritating and I’m embarrassed to give anyone a ride. I've driven a friend’s 2010 and it makes no noise when stopping. I’m about to go back the dealer again and attempt to get a manager to take a ride and see if he can hear the sound. The mechanic I dealt with claimed that he tried out a new car off the lot and it made the same noise – implying that I should just quit whining.
View 2 Replies2003 Mazda protege with 105,000 miles. Have had an intermittent clunking sound from rear for years. Mechanic says rear sway bar is bent. Already replaced bushings because they were bad. Do I need to spend $289 plus labor to replace the sway bar?
View 4 RepliesI have a clunking sound coming from the rear of my X when I stop and take off. The sound does not happen until the vehicle has been driven for a few miles. After it has been driven, I will get one clunk when I stop. When I take off I will get one clunk as the vehicle starts to accelerate, and another clunk as I give it a little more gas. What could be the cause of this? I do not get the sound when I shift from park to drive, or drive to reverse.
View 14 RepliesMy 2009 Accent (hatch) has for some time now made a very noticeable clunking sound from the rear passenger side when going over rough roads (minor bumps). I sat in the back at one point and it is definitely coming from the area of the shock and not from the trunk. It has persisted through all temperatures and seems worse now (February in New England). I found a lot of conversation of this issue related to Elantras, but not so much for Accents. My spouse thinks it is the shock dust cover rattling, and in fact you can make it rattle, but I'm not convinced that it could make that much of a clunk - it's just what looks like a thin plastic.
View 9 RepliesWhy is my PT Cruiser making a clunking noise up front underneath. Mechanics say the can't find why -- Struts seems ok.....
View 3 RepliesI have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
Audio lights but no sound? Chrysler Concord 97. Dealer says replace but what do you think?
View 2 RepliesI've a got a 2006 sebring convertible. I replaced the rear window defrost tab 2 years ago & it has come un-stuck again. The dealership has tried adhering it 3X and after the 24 hour cure time, as soon as I turn on the defroster, the tab comes off the window. Dealership is telling me to replace the ENTIRE rear window!
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