Chrysler - Towncountry :: Check Engine Light Comes On / Code P0404 - Clogged EGR Valve
Mar 17, 2013
2007 Chrysler Town & Country with 74K. The check engine light comes on and the parts store diagnostic says P0404, a clogged EGR valve. On my model, replacing the EGR valve involves taking out the alternator, which involves removing the passenger wheel. That's beyond my skill set.
So, can I just replace the EGR tube and pour some Sea Foam motor treatment directly into the EGR? Would that hurt anything?
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We have had an engine light that comes on when it is wet out. (Usually from rain) Until recently, the codes were not stored in memory. The last time we tried this, there was a 420 code set. Our mechanic said it was the catalytic converter. This vehicle is a 2006 and only has a 100,000 miles on it. Neither of the oxygen sensors have been replaced. The car doesn't seem to run any differently when the engine light comes on.
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I have a 2003 Chrysler Town & Country and the check engine light is on. I brought the van to my mechanic and he told me there was a code that told him there was a misfire on cylinder #1. He started out with replacing the wire to cylinder #1, no change. He replaced the spark plug, no change. He installed a new fuel injector, no change. The van runs a little ruff at idle and when at a stop light.
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My Chysler Town and Country started fine on a morning when it was 9 degrees. (no garage, so it was out in the weather.) I let it run for a couple of minutes so things would begin to thaw and then I drove to work. It ran really rough. I figured that once it warmed up, it would smooth out, but it did not. Even after the weather warmed up into the 50's 5 days later, it still runs rough. Now, I am also getting a check engine light. What could be wrong?
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The oil light on my 2005 Chryler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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2004 Chrysler Sebring Sedan, 4 cylinder dual-overhead cam. My check engine light came on this morning and the code came out as the catalytic converter. The car seems to be running fine, at least no recent changes. I'm debating replacing this vehicle soon, and I'm wondering if it's worth working on the catalytic converter. I recently replaced the cam shaft position sensor as well.
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Yesterday afternoon the "Service Engine Soon" light turned on in our '97 Town & Country (3.8L engine). A few minutes later (while I headed to Autozone to get the code read) the light went out. They were still able to retrieve 2 codes: P0700 and P1775. Internet searches suggest a possible bad solenoid pack for the transmission.
More background: The van has 161,000 miles, and the original owners got the transmission replaced at 40,000 miles under warranty (4 speed automatic). The transmission fluid was replaced (pan drop method) at about 153,000 miles and at 112,000 miles, etc., with Chrysler ATF +4 fluid. The van got new plugs and wires about 15,000 miles ago. (It also got a new radiator and hoses yesterday morning which I think is unrelated.) Another possible clue: On long trips sometimes the 2nd transmission shift will become slightly rough but it still shifts and after it has rested everything returns to normal. This occasional shifting issue has been going on for over 5 years and again when it manifests itself it is very slight.
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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1996 izusu rodeo had check engine light on got code for egr valve. Replaced it light when out drove fine all day. Stopped at grocery store came back out would not start ... Will crank over but will not start. did a obg (two) scan get a p1640 output A circuit fault code along with a 1460 egr code ....
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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Just read that a clogged EGR valve is common and reduced performance and increases emissions. Need to clean this valve? Where is it located?? Just noticed tonight that there is not a lot of suction from my vacuum lines and I wondered if this is related. Plus I have a p0430.
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I have a 06 f250 king ranch with 6.0 . A few days ago my scangauge showed a code P0405
I changed my egr and after it showed two codes : P0405 and P0404
It still has a hesitation and loss of power , although better than before the Change.
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The oil light on my 2005 Chrysler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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I have a 2007 Chrysler T & C minivan. The engine cuts off while driving. Most frequently while turning (to the right!). My mechanic found a loose battery terminal. Nope. Next he suspected the ignition switch which has been a problem with other model years. Nope. Now he wants to try the cam shaft? What could cause it to just die during a right turn? and very frequently.
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I don't know that much about cars, the fan that turns on to cool the engine when you're driving won't turn off when I turn off the van. Before I knew what was going on it was killing my battery over and over again and I kept getting jumps, finally took it to Sears and bought a new battery. Later that day I came back to the van, about a half hour after turning it off, and realized the fan was still on. There was nothing I could do to get it to stop, Finally it killed the battery once again and I called AAA. The triple A guy who came showed me how to pull out the fuse under the hood with needle nose pliers to stop it.
I had to drive it to Maine to visit my father and while there took it to his mechanics but of course when I pulled into their parking lot the engine fan turned off when I turned off the car. There were a few other repairs to be done, the air conditioner wasn't working and the interior lights weren't turning on, but during the week they had it the engine fan never did that weird thing for them. But when I picked it up two days ago, after driving it around town for a day and having it work fine, I took it on an hour and a half drive and once again the engine fan wouldn't turn off. Should I resign myself to driving around with a pair of needle nose pliers in my glove compartment for the rest of the life of this van??
BTW, I've only owned this van for a few months. The problem started after I had taken it to a garage in New Jersey where I now live to have the air conditioner worked on. The said it had no freon but couldn't find a leak so filled it with freon with a dye in it. They also said I needed to have my front wheels aligned and did that for me.
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I recently picked up a 2003 chrysler town and country from a local GM dealer in central MN. After filling out the paperwork etc I was on my way home and the transmission made a loud CLUNK. I thought I must be imagining things. At the next intersection as I accelerated from the light "CLUNK". I called the dealer right away and they stood behind the van. The dealer had me bring it to the transmission shop covering all expenses. They fixed it, or so they said. We had it for a few days and had similar problems. Back to the transmission shop. They then completely went through the transmission. We got it back and again had issues... this time it was a slight shudder in the transmission as you slowly accelerated. I brought it back again. They replaced the torque convertor. I've only had it back for a few days and it still has an occasional slight shudder under slow acceleration... it usually happens around 30mph.
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I am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
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my 1997 town and country van with the 3.8 liter engine keeps stalling at unpredictable times. sometimes when it is cold first thing in the morning, other times when fully warmed up at a stop light and sometimes on the interstate at 70 mph. The tach drops to zero, the speedometer drops to zero, the check engine light blinks on and then back off, the computer doesn't record any error codes. it causes the cruise control to drop out while on the hiway. the engine always starts right back up, for how long, its unpredictable. Mechanics have replaced the three engine sensors twice, checked and cleaned wiring contacts at sensors and engine computer. And also the Knock sensor has already been disconnected per a chrysler bulletin. At highway speeds the engine usually bucks and then keeps running, but sometimes dies.
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I had a mechanic replace my original engine 0f 120k with a 60k engine. Seems like I ran out of oil and warped my original engine and this was my only option. So as soon as I get the van back the transmission is dripping fluid and the mechanic said that some thing in the transmission went bad and must be replaced. This has nothing to do with replacing your engine. Can this be true?
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While driving idle seemed to increase. Noticed at red lite where van seemed to want to move forward with brakes applied. Went to parking lot put van in park engine RPM rose to around 2500 RPM on it's own. Opened hood and fiddled around with a wire???/hose thing near the throttle control line (wire that connects foot piece to engine). A bunch of black powder (carbon?) fell out. Turned the van off then back on a couple of times. On the third time idle returned to normal and has operated normal since. What caused this? What do I tell my mechanic? What was the wire/tube thing (it entered what I assume is the air intake at a right angle) right in front of where the wire from the foot control hooks up.
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2007 Chrysler Town and Country, 123k.
It's had an intermittent airbag light for a few weeks now. When it does come on, it stays on until the car is shut off. When I turn it back on, sometimes it comes on and sometimes it doesn't. Sometimes it comes on at startup and sometimes it comes on in the middle of driving. I took it into the shop when the light was off and the shop said whatever's wrong with it, it wasn't storing the code and to run it back in when the light is on.
Since yesterday, the fuel has been overflowing at fill up. I get maybe a half gallon in and then it overflows. I can hear it glug-glugging in when I pull out the gas hose. The flap at the neck of the tank seems to have gone missing too.
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