Civic - Honda :: 1997 - New Clutch And Transmission Rebuilt Noise
Aug 10, 2015
Car is a 97 civic. I had a input shaft bearing replaced since i had the tranny off. I decided to change the flywheel clutch and bearings. After install I have cold not shift into gears with engine running. I fixed the problem by removing almost all of the free play in the pedal. Should i replace the master to get some of the free play back in the pedal?
Second and main problem, when i release the clutch pedal there is a ratchet/grinding noise. It changes with engine revving and the further out the pedal the louder the noise. I think i attached a noise clip. I have dropped my transmission to ensure everything is installed correctly. reinstalled the tranny with the same noise. Bleeding the clutch did not work either. Pedal does seems soft but not getting stuck.
New parts:
Flywheel
Pilot bearing
Clutch disc
Pressure plate throwout bearing
Transmission Synchs
Bearing kit
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Now with the new clutch installed, it makes a terrible noise with my foot off of the clutch in neutral. I can't get into any gears; it'll just grind gears.
Here is a video of the noise. Again the noise only occurs with my foot off of the clutch pedal. Quiet with my foot on the clutch. I can't get into any gears.
1996 Honda Civic
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I have a 1997 Honda Civic 5-speed with about 200,000 miles. It is making a low-pitched whining noise when I let the clutch out in neutral. I took it to a mechanic who immediately diagnosed it as the throw out bearing. Being mechanically inclined, I dropped the tranny and changed the clutch and bearing, but started it back up, and the noise is still there - as if I did nothing at all. It is not constant volume - sometimes it is louder than others. It is usually loudest first start of the day. I live in Houston, so its not like it is "cold", just not hot. To be fair to the mechanic, the bearing was quite corroded, but everything else seemed to be working properly.
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Our 2003 Odyssey had the transmission rebuilt last month after the original finally failed (215,000 miles). After the rebuild, third gear has a whine. (I don’t recall if it was there before the rebuild – it’s the wife’s ride, she wouldn't have noticed it anyway, and apparently I didn't either). The whine pitch varies with RPM, and is louder if the transmission is under a load. Going up a hill with the accelerator depressed makes the whine louder – taking your foot off the accelerator quiets it. I have a warranty for two years on the rebuild, but before I go back and start asking them about the noise, I was wondering what would cause it? I am worried they didn’t rebuild everything and will just tell me the whine is “nothing to be concerned about.” The transmission shifts smoothly and appears to operate normally other than the whine in third gear under a load.
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2002 acura el, basically a fancier canadian version of a civic. 1.7l v-tec engine.
Anyways the (5 speed manual) transmission makes an odd clicking noise that sounds similar to putting a card in bike spokes when you were a kid. Its hard to describe here is a video
It happens 80-90% of the time but occasionally sounds normal, seems to be getting worse lately,responds to rpm increase but gets drowned out around 3200rpm, and cant really be heard in 4th or 5th gear doesn't make the noise when rolling or revving in neutral, or when driving in reverse.Sounds like its coming from the bottom middle of the engine bay, around the input shaft or where the passenger side cv connects.
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I drive a 1997 GMC Jimmy, with 250k miles (all mine). So, I had to have my transmission rebuilt, and the second time I picked it up (we won't talk about the first time) I drove it for a couple of days, and was leaving an icy parking lot, and put it in 4hi. I had it in gear at the time, but wasn't moving at all, and simply pushed the button. It made a grinding sound, then slammed into 4wd. I dropped it off the next day (again), and was told that I cannot put it into 4hi on the fly, that I shouldn't be doing that at all, that when you have a transmission rebuilt, you shouldn't ever do that again.
Given all of the trouble I've had with this highly advertised local transmission shop, I'm not inclined to believe a thing they say- So, I'm asking you all; When I had my transmission rebuilt, did I in fact lose the ability to put into 4hi while vehicle is in gear- let alone moving? I'm not talking about 4lo here, I know I have to be completely stopped and in neutral for that, even my manual says I can go into 4hi safely up to speeds of 45 mph. I still haven't picked it up from the last time I took it in, I didn't have any trouble with 4wd before the transmission rebuild. The first time I picked it up, my driveshaft fell out.
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My cousin has a 2011 honda civic ex A/T and when he lets off the gas his transmission makes a quick knock noise. It's not too loud but it's very noticeable. Shifts fine and everything. Also it sounds like he is forcing his transmission from park to reverse. We hear a lot of noises not so much grinding noises but a lot of movement I guess you could say. But it engages quick. Is this normal or should we take it in? I have had multiple people tell me it's all normal. But it doesn't sound normal to me.
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I own a manual 1992 Honda Civic VX. Recently, the clutch has started to stick about halfway up when I take my foot off after shifting sometimes. I pull it up with my foot when it does this, but clearly it shouldn't be happening. What could be causing this?
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I have a 95 Honda civic with a d15b block and a d16z6 head millage unknown I put a new clutch in it already had a new slave and master I installed a few weeks ago and when the car is running with out the clutch pressed in I can run through all the gears shift with ease it's like the clutch is pressed in but it's not
I've tried dropping the tranny and checking the pressure plate the clutch disc throw out bearing pilot bearing all good and installed right I rebleed the system then I removed the slave to see if it was in the hydroelectric system and still no change what am I missing.
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We have a 99 Honda Civic. Our clutch is sticking in all gears and won't go into 5th gear at all. There is no resistance when I push down on the clutch pedal.
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I have a 2001 Civic LX; I would like the clutch pedal travel distance to be far less than it is.
As in most manual cars, I find that the clutch pedal travel is mostly useless. That is, once the clutch is fully engaged, the pedal still has a goodly way to go before it hits the stop. On pedal depression the inverse is true. As modern hydraulic clutches are self-adjusting, this once-necessary extra distance is pointless.
(I would rather clutch with my ankle than my whole leg. If I could cut the pedal travel in half (or more), I would like that very much.) Is this possible? How would I do such a thing?
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Ok my car is not starting. It is not turning over when you turn the key and push in the clutch. I can here a relay click under the drivers side dash. I can push start it and it runs great, sometimes it will start and run fine but it is a frequent problem now. What could be causing me these problems. 1991 Honda Civic DX ....
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I have a manual 98 civic with 120k miles on it that has recently developed an annoying habit of stalling. The car started fine the other morning so I backed it into the driveway to warm up, no problems there. When I went to leave for work, the car stalled and died. I got it restarted but when I tried to drive it stalled again. It happened as soon as I disengage the clutch. As I said, moving in reverse was no problem. The battery died after I attempted several times to restart it so I charged the battery overnight.
The next morning the car fired up right away with no hesitation nut as soon as I released the clutch it started sputtering so I gunned the engine to keep the RPM's up. I managed to get it into 2nd and even 3rd but as soon as I down shifted for a stop sign it died. So far I've replaced the battery and the alternator, both were on their way out anyways. Then this past weekend I got a good deal on a new fuel pressure regulator and put that on. The car started right up and ran nice and smooth. I took it out for a drive for about a half hour.
About 20 minutes into the drive I noticed that when I pressed on the gas pedal, the RPMs wouldn't move up much higher. Shortly thereafter the car started sputtering while accelerating. When I got home I turned the car off and went inside. I came out about 15 minutes later and the car wouldn't start. This has happened after every part replacement. New alternator, runs fine for 20-30 minutes,then won't start again. New battery, same thing. And tonight the gas pressure regulator. Could it be the main fuel relay, should I pull the injectors? The plugs and wires are new and the distributor is less than 2 years old and well sealed. I'm at a real loss here.
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I have a 2002 Honda civic (manual). Lately, when I have pushed in the clutch to start it, the engine makes a bad sound. It sounds similar to the sound an automatic would make when you turn the key while it is already running.
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,My wife drives a 96 Civic DX Hatchback, 5 Speed. It has about 160,000 miles on it, and she only drives it to work and back (a 15 minute drive via the interstate).
Just yesterday, she told me that the clutch feels 'looser' than normal, for lack of a better term. When it's first started, it's hard for her to get it into first and/or reverse, but once driving, she says the shifting is fine. When she's driving at highway speeds in 5th for a while, then has to get off at her exit, she said it's hard for her to get it back into 1st gear. She says she feels like she has to push the clutch harder than normal to get it back into 1st gear.
I don't know much about manual transmissions, and am hoping for some insight into what the problem(s) may be?
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Replaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
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I started having a strange clicking sound when pushing down the clutch pedal. I have 43,000 miles on it and I have driven the clutch well(I really don't believe I already worn it up). It goes away and then it comes back. There is no problem on shifting from gear to gear, it works just fine. It is only when I push the pedal that it starts clicking like it pushing against something. The car dealership was so useless, they said I need a new clutch and that warranty does not cover it because I may have been using the clutch badly. Also do you think that they have the right to tell me it is my fault even though I have the extended warranty for 100, 000 miles.
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I had a new clutch put in my '94 civic a few months back during the engine rebuild. I'm anal about saving gas so I tend to shift a bit early, not enough to make the engine chug, but I might shift into 3rd gear at 17 mph. Never had a problem with it. Since the rebuild, when I do shift earlier, the car has hiccups where there is little or no power for a half to full second. The engine will sputter for a bit until I get up into normal operating range. But it's not like before, I'm shifting no earlier than I have been for the last 6 years and have never dealt with this before. The rpm's don't shoot up so I don't think it's actually slippage.
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My 2005 Honda Civic Hybrid died yesterday and the dealership said that the transmission is ruined and needs to be replaced. It has 102,000 miles and has a Constant Variable Transmission. At 84,000 miles I had the transmission fluid drained and refilled at a local reputable mechanic (not the dealership) and they added 3.5 quarts of Honda ATF fluid instead of CVT fluid.
Is that what killed my transmission? Why was it able to run for 20,000 miles with the wrong fluid? I have been very good about getting oil changes and keeping up on the maintenance. What is the life expectancy of this transmission? Should the mechanic who made the error replace the transmission at no cost to me? Should he reimburse me for my rental car?
What steps should I take?
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Took my 2003 Honda civic hybrid to a budget tune and lube. They said that I needed my fluid changed, I agreed, they changed it (did not flush it). It has 95k on it. Later that night the car broke down, I took it to honda they're telling me that I need a new transmission, there are pieces of a chain in the fluid that they drained. Supposedly the budget tune and lube used a CVT fluid called "Full throttle" honda is telling me that you cannot use anything but honda fluid and the tune and lube is not taking responsibility. Could this have destroyed the transmission?
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My 2001 manual transmission Honda Civic lost acceleration and died a few weeks ago. Was pressing the gas all the way down and it just wouldn't go. I was able to get the ac/radio to turn on but couldn't get it restarted. After 5 minutes, I got it started and was able to get it through the intersection into a parking lot before it died again. It jerked and made loud popping noises and never would go more than 5 mph the whole time. Had it towed to the shop. They tried to start the car the next morning and did so with no problems. The check engine light showed a timing issue. Later that day, they restarted and no check engine light and no problems, but we knew the timing belt was way overdue (165000 miles, never replaced) so we all hoped I got a lucky warning and they replaced that and sent me on my way.
Two weeks later it did the same thing and died again. This time it was close enough to home to restart it and get it home. It jerked and popped and then at one point it was as if a clog got cleared and I shot off down the street, because I had the pedal to the floor. Then it started decelerating again but I got it home-smelled a slight burning smell. Waited until the next morning, suspecting it would be fine, and drove it to the shop myself with no problems. This time the codes showed it needed a new O2 sensor and a cam shaft sensor. They replaced those, feeling certain that must have been the issue.
Drove it home with no problem, went to leave the house that night and as soon as I got out of the driveway, it started doing it again. This time, though, the car did not die and I was able to turn it around and get it back into the driveway. The shop sent a tow truck and they've had it since, but can't get the car to replicate the problem and there is nothing showing up as being wrong (and I swear I'm not imagining this). Have been assured that it's not the transmission, not the fuel filter. They think it might be something electrical but can't figure it out.
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